MS 250 Shortening of the chain?

Hello,

I have an MS 250, one year old, and the chain is now a little long, and I can not tension it with the tension screw, (I go to the top of the screw)

A friend suggests me to shorten the chain, and take one driver link.

Is that a normal procedure? I know that a lot of people do that but I want to be sure

thanks!

F

Freedom said:

Hello,

I have an MS 250, one year old, and the chain is now a little long, and I can not tension it with the tension screw, (I go to the top of the screw)

A friend suggests me to shorten the chain, and take one driver link.

Is that a normal procedure? I know that a lot of people do that but I want to be sure

thanks!

F

Click to expand...

Loosen the tension screw
Now, loosen the two nuts that hold the bar...
Slide the bar away from the engine to remove slack(wear gloves)
Snug nuts...turn tension screw to get correct tension...tighten nuts holding bar

If you have used it a lot your drive gear may need replacing...check it for wear.

check YouTube for a video

Yes this is normal. It is also a indicator that you may be running too much tension on the chain. Check your manual for chain tension. BTW I worked as a tree surgeon for 15 years and used same brand of saw. Great saw!

It has been common practice for several years, but the stretching is due to wear in the rivet bearing areas of the chain, and it is now recommended by the chain manufacturers to not shorten chains due to liability of the possible breaking of the chain. Oregon factory reps have told the dealers to not shorten chains.

With due respect to dfbroxey, it has never been a good idea to shorten any chain that has worn too loose.
not on a push bike, not on a motorcycle and never on a chainsaw.

Now professionals who use chainsaws every day know how to properly maintain their saws & chains and most can tell by the sound & feel of the saw running if it is safe or dangerous to use.
So what they do and get away with doing compared to what the occasional home owner can get away with is highly different.
Chain "stretching" is actually chains wearing and usually with saw chain it is the holes in the side plates going oval.
The rivet is held in by about 0.003" so a little wear can make a hole big enough for the rivet to slip through a side plate then the chain breaks.
This is again a bigger problem for occasional users as professionals usually keep their blades really sharp where as home owners tend to force blunt blades through the wood, cause they only need to do 10 more cuts to finish
Apart from that, wearing the side plates moves the drive links further apart effectively increasing the pitch of the chain doing big damage to the drive & nose sprockets.
A325 chain is just that ,.325" between pins and a 3/8" chain is 0.375" between pins

From a different angle and using down here prices
a Oregon chain is $ 40
An Oregon bar is $ 95 and should be good for about 50 chains
Emergency surgery is free thanks to Medicare but the ambulance to get you there is $ 300 flagfall + $ 75 /km

makes the new chain a no brainer.

And as DFBROXEY has already mentioned you are not adjusting the chain correctly or playing careful enough attention to the bar oiling.
Running for just a few minutes without enough oil can wreck both the chain & the bar .

Brasil the only reason to change a link or a put a Butterly link in a chain would be that you hit a nail or some foreign object while cutting...... You said 1 year old on the saw... Chain is that old also ????

If it is then a new chain is in order like Bert and IL Engine mentioned....

Pro cutters will change out 2 to 3 chains a day while putting in a 8 to 10 hour day with top notch saws...... I won't mention any brand name..... Unless you ask........

We only repair chains that are bunged to save money for certain customers.... If you have a .325 or low profile type and it's duller than a butter knife then it's time to get a new chain.....those chain sizes are for smaller cutting....Also check your bar for wear. You might want to turn it upside down and do that occasionally so the bar gets even wear on both sides...........

Stihl makes an awesome sharpener now that is a 2 in 1 tool. 30 bux and you will have a tool that will last a long time......

Here is the link to a great video ..........
https://youtu.be/sBJRzbaFC9Y

I stand corrected. Bertsmobile1 is correct, as are the others. I now think it would be easier and safer for you to just get a new chain. When chainsaws are used comercialy chain breakage happens and is expected. All safety gear is worn and is mandentory and even then injury sometimes happens. It is very dangerous work and very good insurance is required for the employer. No matter what your decision I urge you to wear all your safety gear to include saw chaps, gloves, hard hat, face shield, ear plugs and boots.

Thanks for the help! good tips

* this device also sharpened the depth indicator ? ( I do not know the english name)
* Pferd is a good alternative to Stihl? I found both in Amazon and is cheaper

thanks!
F

Freedom said:

Thanks for the help! good tips

* this device also sharpened the depth indicator ? ( I do not know the english name)
* Pferd is a good alternative to Stihl? I found both in Amazon and is cheaper

thanks!
F

Click to expand...

Yes it is called a depth gauge or in the Northwest U.S. they call them rakers....... Yes the 2 in 1 does take off the top of the rakers at the same time with the cutters.......

I never saw a Pferd in action but I hear they make the 2 in 1 for Stihl..... Stihl dealers sell for 30 bux, and way more on Ebay and Amazon....