24HP V-Twin B&S - Fault driving me CRAZY!

Boudreaux In Eunice La.

Boudreaux In Eunice La.

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Hey Mon Ami........... I know people in Australia make good money cause I have a few friends there and NZ also and I do know that a 1 person meal at a regular restaurant costs about 50 bux also......

You need to wait on the Briggs dealer in your area i think.......... If I order a valve from my Briggs distributor it's 13 to 14 US dollars shipping and then 35 USPS shipping to you in a flat rate, if it fits it ships envelope.......

Here's an idea for you ...... Call my buddy Ed at Pro Parts direct and see how much the shipping will be for you ....

1 800 305 9255 ask for Ed................
 
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bertsmobile1

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B & S Australia have lost the plot & I have given up trying to get genuine B & S parts locally
Over the past year I have been forced to buy two 31 series cams direct from Jacks Small Engines because Briggs did not have any stock & I was quoted 3 to 5 weeks , 3 weeks after I had placed the order for the first one.
Same thing with 44 series rebuild gasket kits and a 16A stator .
In all cases, Jacks had them to me in 14 days via USPS and they ended up being 10% cheaper than buying through a local dealer where I get a 20% discount , and that including the postage.

Right now Briggs Australia are busy getting Oregon branded products into Bunnings, Mitre 10 & K Mart.
This retail deal will be worth millions to them ( or so they think ) so Briggs owners can go to hell in a handbasket if they think Briggs Australia will be bothered to supply them with low profit engine parts.

Add to that All Power went belly up July last year.
All Power were the Stens representative down here but also handled the Echo & Shindawa franchises.
Briggs picked up both of those so again Briggs Engine users can go suck eggs if they expect parts because Briggs Australia are busy trying to get Echo & Shindawa into all of their dealer network retail outlets.
Thus again they are stretched well beyond their capacity and are letting their Briggs engine customers go hang while they chase big buck retail sales.

In February the RGS customers were advised that from October 1 2018 Oregon parts will have to be ordered through the Briggs network once the RGS stock ran out.
I have not been able to get any genuine Oregon parts from Briggs dealers and in particular Gator blades which again I am ordering direct from the USA through Jacks Small Engines.
I have been converting my Oregon chain saw customers to Hurtzl products which seem to be good 2nd shelf quality wise . I buy these direct from the factory in China so as far as I can see Oregon have shot themselves in the foot with this one & Briggs have bitten off way more than they can chew and are choking on it.

So now I am advising my customers to fit Kawasaki engines if they want a good one ( I can fit them for the same price as the equivalent Briggs ) or a Chinese Knock off from one of the various tool shop franchises if they want a cheap one.
You can give up on your Briggs engine and forget about getting parts for it locally as it appears that Briggs Australia has no intention of retaining adequate stocks of Briggs engine parts in their local warehouse .

This is shown by the fact that they really did close ALL of the Briggs parts warehouses for 3 weeks over the Christmas break ( 21-12-18 / 7-1-19 )
Lifan & Loncin OTOH only closed for the public holidays . Kawasaki was only closed from 24-12-18 to 2-1-19
RGS closed Sydney for 2 weeks but the main warehouse in Brisbane & Melbourne were only closed public holidays
 
Boudreaux In Eunice La.

Boudreaux In Eunice La.

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Quote from Bert ............

Right now Briggs Australia are busy getting Oregon branded products into Bunnings, Mitre 10 & K Mart.
This retail deal will be worth millions to them ( or so they think ) so Briggs owners can go to hell in a handbasket if they think Briggs Australia will be bothered to supply them with low profit engine parts................


Yes Oregon and my Briggs Distributor are together over here....... It is convenient for me because I can do my Briggs order and get my Oregon parts in the same shipment at no extra shipping costs..........

Bert I think you can go thru my distributor also since you have a business and get your parts wholesale...
 
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bertsmobile1

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Might take you up ,on that Beu.
Took lot of doing to get "trade" deals from Jacks.

As we know , but most owners don't the logistical costs of spare parts distribution is a lot more than the actual cost of the parts so combining warehouses to cut costs makes sense.
However the caveat to that is having the ability to do it which Briggs Australia apparently does not.
 
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Jacks recently just starting putting on-line, once your cart is full , ready to check out, what's in stock and what isn't.

They never had that before (I did bitch about it) so your entire order isn't necessarily held up wit a back ordered part.

IME, Jacks, even with shipping in the US, is still cheaper than the dealer, then add sales tax...
 
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Neo7

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bertsmobile1 said:
B & S Australia have lost the plot & I have given up trying to get genuine B & S parts locally
Over the past year I have been forced to buy two 31 series cams direct from Jacks Small Engines because Briggs did not have any stock & I was quoted 3 to 5 weeks , 3 weeks after I had placed the order for the first one.
Same thing with 44 series rebuild gasket kits and a 16A stator .
In all cases, Jacks had them to me in 14 days via USPS and they ended up being 10% cheaper than buying through a local dealer where I get a 20% discount , and that including the postage.

Right now Briggs Australia are busy getting Oregon branded products into Bunnings, Mitre 10 & K Mart.
This retail deal will be worth millions to them ( or so they think ) so Briggs owners can go to hell in a handbasket if they think Briggs Australia will be bothered to supply them with low profit engine parts.

Add to that All Power went belly up July last year.
All Power were the Stens representative down here but also handled the Echo & Shindawa franchises.
Briggs picked up both of those so again Briggs Engine users can go suck eggs if they expect parts because Briggs Australia are busy trying to get Echo & Shindawa into all of their dealer network retail outlets.
Thus again they are stretched well beyond their capacity and are letting their Briggs engine customers go hang while they chase big buck retail sales.

In February the RGS customers were advised that from October 1 2018 Oregon parts will have to be ordered through the Briggs network once the RGS stock ran out.
I have not been able to get any genuine Oregon parts from Briggs dealers and in particular Gator blades which again I am ordering direct from the USA through Jacks Small Engines.
I have been converting my Oregon chain saw customers to Hurtzl products which seem to be good 2nd shelf quality wise . I buy these direct from the factory in China so as far as I can see Oregon have shot themselves in the foot with this one & Briggs have bitten off way more than they can chew and are choking on it.

So now I am advising my customers to fit Kawasaki engines if they want a good one ( I can fit them for the same price as the equivalent Briggs ) or a Chinese Knock off from one of the various tool shop franchises if they want a cheap one.
You can give up on your Briggs engine and forget about getting parts for it locally as it appears that Briggs Australia has no intention of retaining adequate stocks of Briggs engine parts in their local warehouse .

This is shown by the fact that they really did close ALL of the Briggs parts warehouses for 3 weeks over the Christmas break ( 21-12-18 / 7-1-19 )
Lifan & Loncin OTOH only closed for the public holidays . Kawasaki was only closed from 24-12-18 to 2-1-19
RGS closed Sydney for 2 weeks but the main warehouse in Brisbane & Melbourne were only closed public holidays
Click to expand...
Now this is interesting information ... Thanks for the heads-up on all this Bert.
 
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Neo7

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Ok, I've been away for a few weeks but the new inlet valve was in the mailbox when I got home. Fitted it and put everything back together. During reassembly I notice there was no oil residue in in No.2 Cylinder Head. Crossed checked that with No.1 Cylinder Head which had a fair amount of oil residue and an oil saturated cover gasket too. Anyway I started it up for 30 seconds with the No.2 cover bolts loose to see if any oil would drip out but nothing came out. Took the cover off and it was still as dry as a bone in there (and cover gasket dry too).
No.2 Cylinder is the lower (closer to the oil sump/pump) but got quite hot in 30 seconds but No.1 Cylinder was quite cool .... In addition to all this the pop, pop, popping was still there in the 30 seconds I ran the engine. So changing the vale was another waste of effort and money.

So it seems I have an oil flow issue.... I tilted the engine back 45 degrees and removed the oil pump cover but the pump seemed all OK. Covered in oil and rotated when I turned the flywheel. So what could be stopping oil travelling up into Cylinder Head No.2 and possibly Cylinder No.2 too ???

Hope this engine isn't drive you crazy as much as it is me!!!


WhSkszy.jpg m5C01kK.jpg HCZjJnd.jpg
 
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Neo7

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SRTsFZ6 said:
Then, follow, blow out all the oil orifices in the block as it seems one may very well be clogged (to that cylinder).
Brake cleaner, air, etc to get that opened up again.

That definitly needs to be clear..
Click to expand...
Where do I find the oil orifices in the block?
I guess this means I need to strip down and open up the whole engine again? :frown: ...... Will I need to buy a new sump pan gasket?

Many thanks.
Neo
 
A

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I would pull the oil filter and oil pump. Oil flows from one, of course thru the filter and THRU the rest of the engine, including getting oil to the top end(s).

You can start at the top end and work backwards, either direction, (IDK where your passages are), but oil has to flow and it obviously isn't.

Whether it's a full tear down or not, it depends on where the clog is / and simply finding it.

Using an air compressor and say brake cleaner from the oil pump cavity out to the rest of the engine is probably how you'll need to proceed.

Should be pretty obvious once you get to the affected area...


A shop manual may have the oil path for the engine but "hands on" will ultimately be needed.
 
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