Fuel Poulan Pro Leaf Blower does not get fuel

TylerFrankel

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Feb 25, 2018
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Hello! I have acquired a Poulan pro leaf blower (was found on the street for trash pick up). I took it home, and it would start, but couldn't idle OR rev to full RPMs without stalling. I left it for a while until I had more time to clean and tune the carburetor, but when I came back to it the primer bulb had no fuel. I tried pumping, but it wouldn't draw any up. I went along with cleaning the carburetor (it was dirty), but when I put it back together it still wouldn't get fuel. I realized the fuel line corroded, so I replaced it, but still nothing. Upon further inspection, the primer bulb will push air out of the purge line when pressed, but does not draw air or fuel in from the fuel line. I took it apart and put it back together, trying to map the path of the fuel through the carburetor, but with no success. I know where the fuel enters and where the bubble draws in fuel, but I can't trace the whole path because there are many small holes. I tried to find where the bubble was sucking from instead of the fuel line by submerging it, and when I did it would draw water in (not from the fuel line) but I could not tell where. What is going on!? It runs if I put fuel into the air intake, and the carb is clean, put together correctly, and the bubble and lines are not broken. What is it drawing air from? Does anyone know? Thanks!
Model BVM200
 

bertsmobile1

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Fuel circuit goes
Fuel filter > carb > purge > tank return.

Purge valves have a one way valve in them.
On carbs where the bulb is part of the carb it is replacable on remote ones they are not so new purge time.
Pull the tubes off the back and check the purge is working by putting you finger over one of the tubes.
Outlet blocked = can't press bulb in
inlet blocked = bulb will not come back out.

Double check that the carb is connected to the filter which is the thinner diameter tube with the heavier wall, because it is a suction line so prone to collapsing.
The return line is a bigger diameter and thin walled.
Nearly all novices hook them up wrong way round.
 

TylerFrankel

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Joined
Feb 25, 2018
Threads
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Fuel circuit goes
Fuel filter > carb > purge > tank return.

Purge valves have a one way valve in them.
On carbs where the bulb is part of the carb it is replacable on remote ones they are not so new purge time.
Pull the tubes off the back and check the purge is working by putting you finger over one of the tubes.
Outlet blocked = can't press bulb in
inlet blocked = bulb will not come back out.

Double check that the carb is connected to the filter which is the thinner diameter tube with the heavier wall, because it is a suction line so prone to collapsing.
The return line is a bigger diameter and thin walled.
Nearly all novices hook them up wrong way round.

Thanks for your response! It is on the carb and I have tested it by doing what you are saying. It isn't that its hooked up wrong; when I block the outlet port the bubble won't push but the inlet port being blocked doesn't affect it, hence it not drawing fuel in. It seems the vacuum created by the bubble is drawing in from somewhere else than the fuel inlet, but I cannot figure out where or why because all diaphragms are intact and it worked previously.
 

bertsmobile1

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Nov 29, 2014
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Welcome to the wonderful world of cube carbs.
The usual test for air tightness is to block off the outlet tube then pump up the inlet and dunk it in a glass jar of water.
When I pull one down they always get brand new gaskets because they rarely ever reseal on the old compressed ones.

So now it is a case of rechecking everything that you did.
To test a small 2 stroke you really need a pressure / vacuum pump & gauge.
When I first started probably 1/2 of the carb rebuilds that were done were unnecessary.
Having sat through thousands of hours on U-tube a few things have come to light
1) I knew more than 90% of the 1/2 wit shaved monkeys with massive egos & little knowledge who post videos even before I started watching them.
2) Most of the carb problems are not internal to the carb
3) proper methods assuming nothing always pay off a lot faster than even an educated guess.
4) the sequence in assessing the carb IS important.

I would strongly recommend 2 stroke diagnosis by Joe Pace.
Note in particular that pumping up the carb till you exceed the pop off pressure of the metering needle is NOT A GOOD IDEA, unless watching a meter needle facinates an infantile mind.

Also note if you changed the purge bulb there are around 30 different ones and a lot of the stuff on the web are rejects because they do not seal.
Of particular importance is the thickness & evenness of the flange around the base.
25 bulbs for $ 5.00 is not a bargain if 24 of them are no good.
 
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