Raptor SD 54 inch drive belt keeps coming off

New to the forum but found it trying to find any solution to my problem.
I have a Raptor SD that is about 6 months old with 50 hours on it.
Last week my drive belt came off. On close inspection realized the bolt that holds the transmission to the frame had come off on the left side and the right side lock nut was loose as well. It happened when I was going down a slope and I assume when that bolt came off it allowed the fan to hit the belt to pop it off.
I replaced the left bolt, tightened the right bolt and all was well until I was almost done with my 4 acres yesterday and the belt popped off again on a slope but the bolts were secure.
I am wondering that belt hitting the plastic fan blade (it has some nicks on it) is now messed up the fan blade making it too close to the belt.
I plan on hauling it back to the dealer at the end of the week for them to fix it but I am wondering have other owners had this issue and is the only solution to constantly monitor the bolts and nuts?

Thanks

92dogs,

Actually, the belt hitting the fan has happened even when the bolts were in place and tight on a few Raptor models. Usually chews up the inside and side of the belt and thus the belt either breaks or are lifted off the v-pulley.

Another thing that can and does happen with a few, very few as is the fan blade episodes is the deck belt making contact with the right side steering rod and the cure for that is to cable tie the steering rod about 3/4" over toward the right side frame. While you're under the mower, check to see if there is a bright spot on the right steering rod on the belt side.

I'd purchase grade eight bolts and take them to the dealer along with locking nuts and have them put the upgrade bolts on for you while they're being paid for the warranty labor. Worth your time and small amount of money to upgrade the bolts for longer, harder bolts along with locking nuts.

Good luck,

Max

I have 60 inch SD model that started doing exactly that - tossing transmission belt off pulleys after 20-30 minutes of mowing.
I called dealer and they were adamant that transmission suspension hardware is missing or loose.
Also, I am not sure how tight that belt is supposed to be after installation. Long straight run of it, towards the rear, is pretty loose, flopping by hand, with tensioner fully engaged.
That said, after I read this post, fan on the left side does have nixes on blade outer edge. I contributed it to debris hitting it but am re thinking the idea now.
I have question.
Tech at dealer kept referring to checking on 4 tabs that hold transmission in place. What is that he means by tabs? Bolts and nuts?
I just did oil change in transaxles Monday, what was royal pita considering where the filler plugs are. Keeping that in mind, what is the easiest to get to transaxle mounting bolts? As it's all covered from the top, can't see squat. Do you happen to have schematic of where they are located? I actually have scissor lift that I can get mower on and up, so getting to anything from the bottom is easy.
Suggestions appreciated, thank you

mhavanti said:

92dogs,

Actually, the belt hitting the fan has happened even when the bolts were in place and tight on a few Raptor models. Usually chews up the inside and side of the belt and thus the belt either breaks or are lifted off the v-pulley.

Another thing that can and does happen with a few, very few as is the fan blade episodes is the deck belt making contact with the right side steering rod and the cure for that is to cable tie the steering rod about 3/4" over toward the right side frame. While you're under the mower, check to see if there is a bright spot on the right steering rod on the belt side.

I'd purchase grade eight bolts and take them to the dealer along with locking nuts and have them put the upgrade bolts on for you while they're being paid for the warranty labor. Worth your time and small amount of money to upgrade the bolts for longer, harder bolts along with locking nuts.

Good luck,

Max

Click to expand...

That for the good information! I have actually seen a few more posts similar mine since joining this saying the same thing about the grade eight bolts.
If I read some of the posts correctly about those grade eight bolts it seems some were suggesting put them on opposite of what the manufacturer does. The lock nut will be on the underside; does that sound right to you. My knowledge of mechanics and such is very limited.
I'll check that steering rod when I get home today.
Thanks again!!

Buy locking washers and place them between nut and frame.
It's my second Hustler and I must say, that their bolts are not worth a dime. First one, I had 54 inch deck Hustler. That literally started falling apart on deck suspension bolts after 30 hrs of use. Snapped bolts, "locking" nuts going loose. So I sold it and now have 60 inch SD and, this weekend, found snapped engine guard bolt and guard rattling as the result.
If I were you, crucial components, I'd have ditched their bolts and replaced them with automotive grade ones, with locking washers. On my deck height adjustment bolts, I even added 2nd locking nut on top of the OEM nut. In this manner, double nutted, there is no way it will go loose. Prolly will snap eventually.

ukrkoz said:

I have 60 inch SD model that started doing exactly that - tossing transmission belt off pulleys after 20-30 minutes of mowing.
I called dealer and they were adamant that transmission suspension hardware is missing or loose.
Also, I am not sure how tight that belt is supposed to be after installation. Long straight run of it, towards the rear, is pretty loose, flopping by hand, with tensioner fully engaged.
That said, after I read this post, fan on the left side does have nixes on blade outer edge. I contributed it to debris hitting it but am re thinking the idea now.
I have question.
Tech at dealer kept referring to checking on 4 tabs that hold transmission in place. What is that he means by tabs? Bolts and nuts?
I just did oil change in transaxles Monday, what was royal pita considering where the filler plugs are. Keeping that in mind, what is the easiest to get to transaxle mounting bolts? As it's all covered from the top, can't see squat. Do you happen to have schematic of where they are located? I actually have scissor lift that I can get mower on and up, so getting to anything from the bottom is easy.
Suggestions appreciated, thank you

Click to expand...

If you Google Hustler Raptor schematics there is a web page that breaks down every part of the mower showing every part number and where it goes.
I am betting the nixes on your blade is from the belt popping off. Also, like you, I thought the belt seemed loose while running BUT a neighbor of mine who is pretty darn handy said his SCAG ($15K) does the same thing. He put on a new belt and got everything as tight as he could and after a few mows it looked a little floppy (I guess that is just how they are).
Please post if you get any answers. If my mower was 3-4 years old I would not be as aggravated but after only 6 months I am having issues with this belt, bolt falling off as well as another bolt fell off early in the cutting season that connected one of the arms and to top it off the deck list peddle broke where the peddle meets the rod (weld spot). I was mowing along and suddenly the deck dropped to the ground causing and immediate stoppage of the blade causing the belt to slip off. Took me a minute to realize what had happened. Took it to the dealer where they ordered a new one but claimed they had never seen it do that.
I either got a mower that was built on a Friday or Hustler has some work to do to make their product better

Well duh, my deck came off and into the ground too. Spring time. That's why I have suspension bolts double nutted now.
If you read my post carefully, it's 2nd Hustler I have and that's how they are made, apparently. We got what we paid for. I am all for fixing it and ridding of it and finding something more reliable. Figure, ways of Husqvarna about the only choice. What gets me is my 2005 42 inch Craftsman riding mower keeps chugging along like it is not 13 years old.
I'll follow after I check on transaxles suspension. Also, I start thinking about adding L shaped brackets to prevent belt from flopping down onto cooling fans. Possibly even re routing tensioner spring, as should you pay attention to its direction, it forces tensioner roller into the main drive pulley. I already tried forcing and locking it in more tension position, but that resulted in belt friction noise. Had to back it up some.
Hmm.. Maybe even adding a second tensioner roller on that long loose belt run....
And by the way. Replacing that belt is PAIN, as you have to remove main belt. Then try putting its tensioner back on!! I had to winch it on.

Fellas,

All v-belts are going to move around on the leeward side. Same for grooved belts or any other kind of belt. You can put an action camera (GoPro or other knockoff) under the frame to record the movement to figure out what you need to do. It also serves as witness to your problem when dealing with both the dealer and manufacturer.

Bear in mind the difference in suspended weight of the Hustler deck compared to the cheap mowers such as entry level Huskies, Toros, Craftsmans, etc. The Hustler Raptor SD decks are kick ***. Replace those suspension bolts with sweet iron chain you've welded a bolt to and problem solved.

I would not use a locking washer as they will bite into the paint. Creating one problem by utilizing the wrong system is never a good thing. Double nutting is a good deal and will work fine and is a good thing. Or, take one nut, strike it vigorously with a sharp chisel twice in a cross pattern and that rascal isn't coming off again until you make it. Depending upon how vigorously you strike the bolts. You can also use castle nuts and cross drill the bolt. Causes small incremental adjustments though. Not recommended as a cure.

Once you fix the slight problems you've found, run the crap out of those mowers.

Max

Biting into paint? Is that a Mercedes or Jaguar or Lexus to be worried about this? Paint is peeling off Hustler decks like wet leaf off butt, when it dries. Rock chips all over everywhere. Why would I be worried with a small paint nick that no one will see anyway? As it's under the deck/frame? Heck, if that's concern, place flat washer over locking washer, to save paint. Will still hold nut or bolt head in place.

Well Sir, it is your mower and your paint. I really could care less how you treat your mower. However, the latter idea you proposed will much less likely harm the other fella's paint and a better idea. The majority of folks will own their mowers for a lifetime if you and I help them figure out a way to maintain and preserve them.

For a great many folks, not only are these mowers their Mercedes, they are their Rolls-Royce, Bentleys, etc. So, they want you and I to suggest ways they can take better care of them.

Enjoy your day, Sir.

Max