Repairs Tiger cub blowing ignition fuse

bertsmobile1

Lawn Royalty
Joined
Nov 29, 2014
Threads
64
Messages
24,647
The sticker says

FH641V-BS18

Which I think is the 21 horse Kawasaki

Did you get and print out the wiring diagram SRW101 posted for you ?
If so do the colours correspond to what you have on your mower?

So the next step is to look under the dash at the key switch for a loose wire then reach in and pull the plug off the back of the key switch.
The terminals should have tiny letters cast into the back.
The power in wire ( red/Yellow ) on the B terminal should not be connected to anything in the off position.

In the off position the G = ground wire should be connected to the M = magneto wire
Nothing else should connect to the G terminal and nothing else should show a dead short to ground so test them all.

On the back of the key switch should be
B=Battery
M=magneto
G=Ground
S=Start
Then an ON
position Usually marked A
and a lights / accessory / recharge marked A2 or L.
If the output side of the fuse on the power feed wire from the solenoid hot cable is ground with the 2 engine plugs undone then you have a short in the mowers wiring
Using diagram from SRW101 the relay should not be energised unless the key is in the start position and the same for the safety switches .
This leaves you with the hour meter or the module plus the wiring between them.
 

srw101

Member
Joined
Aug 31, 2018
Threads
2
Messages
14
Did you get and print out the wiring diagram SRW101 posted for you ?
If so do the colours correspond to what you have on your mower?

1. I'm the OP (srw101) so I'm the one who posted the schematic. There area actually a few of different versions of these schematics floating around on the interwebs but the one I posted is easiest to read and comprehend.

2. The colors all seem to correspond to the drawing albeit mine are faded and harder to I.D.

3. My IGN switch doesn't have any letters stamped on it but because the wiring harness is modular I'd say it has to be right.

I ordered an ignition switch so my best guess right now is that there are some contacts making when they shouldn't be within the sw. Plus this is by far the cheapest route, I'll report back if this clears it up. Thanks again.
 

Luffydog

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 31, 2018
Threads
6
Messages
566
Also could be the relay as well key switch or fuel solenoid had one doing the same thing about 2wks ago but can't remember right was the problem
 

srw101

Member
Joined
Aug 31, 2018
Threads
2
Messages
14
Also could be the relay as well key switch or fuel solenoid had one doing the same thing about 2wks ago but can't remember right was the problem

I'll unplug the solenoid and see what happens. thanks for the suggestion!
 

bertsmobile1

Lawn Royalty
Joined
Nov 29, 2014
Threads
64
Messages
24,647
1. I'm the OP (srw101) so I'm the one who posted the schematic. There area actually a few of different versions of these schematics floating around on the interwebs but the one I posted is easiest to read and comprehend.

2. The colors all seem to correspond to the drawing albeit mine are faded and harder to I.D.

3. My IGN switch doesn't have any letters stamped on it but because the wiring harness is modular I'd say it has to be right.

I ordered an ignition switch so my best guess right now is that there are some contacts making when they shouldn't be within the sw. Plus this is by far the cheapest route, I'll report back if this clears it up. Thanks again.

Sorry, that seemed to have eluded me.
Most mowers made since the 70's have a gang plug on the ignition switch although some use a seperate short ground wire which is not in the main loom.
However the switches are still labeled .
the characters are very small.
Some are on the pins while others are on the base.
Did you check the back of the plug with a magnifier ?

In cases like yours I like to pull the plug then jump the terminals on the plug to determining if it is the switch or the wiring.
You can do the same thing with the relay base.

Switches do go bad, they rust inside and one poster with a similar problem ended up finding the problem was ants inside the switch itself
 

srw101

Member
Joined
Aug 31, 2018
Threads
2
Messages
14
Sorry, that seemed to have eluded me.

Switches do go bad, they rust inside and one poster with a similar problem ended up finding the problem was ants inside the switch itself

Just when you think you've heard it all:tongue:
 

Luffydog

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 31, 2018
Threads
6
Messages
566
Check the electric fuel management control if equip
 

Luffydog

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 31, 2018
Threads
6
Messages
566
Just looked back at first post and noticed it is a ka and not a bs engine
 

jekjr

Lawn Addict
Joined
Jan 3, 2013
Threads
271
Messages
1,968
I had a Tiger Cat with the 22 HP Kawasaki engine that had problems blowing the 20 amp fuse perpetually from the time it was about a year old. It might run a day and not blow one and then it might blow several a day. Tried numerous things before it went out of warranty and then after it went out. Finally one day I had the dealer install new fuse holders on it and it has run several hundred hours since then and has not blown another fuse. The ones on it did not physically look bad. Just food for thought.
 
Top