oh160 rebuild

blumule

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hey,im new here.hello everyone. im tearing down my Tecumseh oh160 ohv engine.its in a sears suburban.i have several questions as I go forth.the most troubleing one is the race for the flywheel side bearing is loose,i can remove it with my fingers. it looks in good shape.not scored or pitted. can I locktite it back in ?2nd question is the lifters fell out when I removed cam and cant distinguish which is intake and which is exhaust.is that a problem? there both same size.
 

Rivets

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Tappets are the same, does not matter which they go in, you’ll be setting clearance after assembly. I doubt loctite will hold it, too much clearance. You could try what we call “farmers loctite”. Taking a center punch and use it to pinch in the aluminum around the race to hold it in place. If done properly it will hold it in place, which it must be, no movement. This manual may help you, read the pages on bearings, 38-41.

http://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Tec...0-8HP-THRU-18HP-CAST-IRON-ENGINES-691462A.pdf
 

blumule

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thanks rivets....ive got the manual.been reading as I go.honestly im just dropping new rings in it,honing it and ive already replaced the valve guides.everything else looked good.it was clean inside.when I pulled the crank for inspection is when I discovered the loose race.what are the chances the bore is wallered and a new race wont fit? im not crazy about punching the aluminum around the race.
 

Rivets

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That’s about the only way to tighten up the race on an engine that old. If you don’t get the race tight and centered in someway, all you work will go down the drain. Sorry for the bad news.
 

blumule

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Thanks again rivets for responding.i went ahead and punched small divots around circumference of race bore.i think it will work.im getting ready to hone the cylinder before i start putting back together.any tips?
 

blumule

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The ring kit is a nos tecumseh.it came with two compression rings.one shiny and one black.one oiler ring which i know goes on bottom.the other two rings are wavy light weight rings.my manual doesnt list these rings nor was any on my piston.however a couple of youtube videos show this wavy ring under bottom of oil ring on 3rd row.do you have any insight on this?
 

Rivets

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If I am reading your post correctly, you have a total of five rings. The two heavier rings are compression rings, then you have two oil scraper rings and one oil expansion ring (wavy). Page 33 of the manual I posted shows the location of each ring. Install oil expansion ring first, then lower scraper ring, then top oil scraper ring. Next you install the center ring, look at the end of the ring, compared to figure on page 33, then the top ring.
TIP, after honing the cylinder wash the block with water and dish soap at least three times. After the third time, dry the entire block with Kleenex. If you see ANY dirt or residue on the Kleenex wash it again three times and dry with Kleenex. Repeat as often as needed until the Kleenex stays clean. Any residue on the interior of the block will spoil your rebuild in a flash. It doesn’t take much to create problems. Immediately after you are finished drying, give any steel parts with a fine coat of WD40 to prevent rusting.
TIP, when I am assembling a rebuild I have a bottle of PERMATEX ULTRA SLICK ASSEMBLY LUBE sitting right next to me. Any time I have two surfaces that have metal parts moving against each other (bushings, bearings, cylinder walls and rings, etc.) they get a coating of the lube. I don’t use oil as an assembly lube, can’t take a chance when I have a paying customer. Good Luck.
 

blumule

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hey rivets...what I have is two compression rings,and two wavy expansion rings and one oil ring.i stand corrected in my reading of manual. it does state that expansion rings are indeed to be installed.my understanding of manual says an expansion ring goes under the bottom oiler ring and under the middle compression ring.when I pulled piston there was no expansion rings at all.maybe that explains the blow by.i appreciate your expertise in the matter,thanks.
 
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