Repairs Electrical Problem?

errn12

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First, let me say I am not a mechanic nor am I very mechanically inclined.
I recently replaced the blade bearing assemblies (2) on my mower deck. I have no idea what they are called but it is the piece that the pulley wheel attaches to on one end and the blade on the other. Once I got the mower back together, it would not crank--not even a sound. I thought maybe my 2 yr old battery so I replaced. That did nothing. I will put what I have tried but please don't judge my lack of proper terminology. I can fix people a lot easier than machines.
Turning the ignition switch does nothing. With the switch on, I "closed" solenoid with screwdriver and the motor will turn but will not crank. Took plug wire loose and checked for arc. Plug wire is getting fire. I replaced ignition switch with new one. I have checked switch plugs on seat switch and blade engage lever and parking brake. There is no tension on the cable that engages the blade. I read that there was a fuse on the small red wire between the solenoid and the switch or either over the back right wheel near the battery. I found both wires but did not find a fuse...there was a place where 2 wires joined on both of them but no fuse there. It seems odd that simply dropping the deck off would create this kind of problem. I am desperate for help. I push mowed 2 acres this past weekend. Cannot handle that again and really want to get a few more years out of this mower. It seems like it should be a simple thing.
 

bertsmobile1

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OK Ern.
We need a lot more information in order to give you good information.
Start with the make model & serial number of your mower off the tag under the seat
It will help both you & us if you go to the Ariens / Gravely web site and download the parts book for your mower
Thus we will all be singing from the same song sheet.
Remember you have the mower in front of you & we have nothing but words on a screen.

Also describe exactly what you hear, see, feel & smell when you try to start the mower.
Sit in it and turn all the switches on & off so they are all in the proper position to start the mower.
Very common for a mower that stops when mowing to be left with the blades engaged so it won't start.
 

shiftsuper175607

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First, let me say I am not a mechanic nor am I very mechanically inclined.
I recently replaced the blade bearing assemblies (2) on my mower deck. I have no idea what they are called but it is the piece that the pulley wheel attaches to on one end and the blade on the other. Once I got the mower back together, it would not crank--not even a sound. I thought maybe my 2 yr old battery so I replaced. That did nothing. I will put what I have tried but please don't judge my lack of proper terminology. I can fix people a lot easier than machines.
Turning the ignition switch does nothing. With the switch on, I "closed" solenoid with screwdriver and the motor will turn but will not crank. Took plug wire loose and checked for arc. Plug wire is getting fire. I replaced ignition switch with new one. I have checked switch plugs on seat switch and blade engage lever and parking brake. There is no tension on the cable that engages the blade. I read that there was a fuse on the small red wire between the solenoid and the switch or either over the back right wheel near the battery. I found both wires but did not find a fuse...there was a place where 2 wires joined on both of them but no fuse there. It seems odd that simply dropping the deck off would create this kind of problem. I am desperate for help. I push mowed 2 acres this past weekend. Cannot handle that again and really want to get a few more years out of this mower. It seems like it should be a simple thing.


Not to be critical but some of your description is confusing and contradictory.

If the engine is turning over...it is cranking...cranking comes from way back when... they had a crank handle on front of the car to turn over the engine.

If the engine is turning over (cranking) and has fire (you said it did)...it should start...unless it has no fuel.
You can spray a shot of starting fluid in unchoked carb inlet and it should fire off.
There is a fuel shut off solenoid on bottom of carburetor on some engines...if you have one you should hear it click or feel it with you finger when you turn key to "run" position. Make sure wires are connected to it.

When ignition switch is turned to "start" (if all safety conditions are met the solenoid gets power to small terminal to close it and energize starter.


To sum it all up...I'm not real sure of your problem(s) but there are some ideas.
 

errn12

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Ariens 2010 960460001 42" gear drive with Kohler 18hp. I have had the lawnmower for 8 years now and am very familiar with it. Just to make sure that I wasn't having a senior moment, I had my wife sit in it and try. When I attempt to start the mower with the key, I see hear and smell absolutely nothing except the mosquito buzzing around my ear.
As I mentioned, my terminology may not just that of a mechanic--but in my defense, I did not say it was turning over..I said it was turning. The engine turns trying to crank only when closing the solenoid with the screwdriver. It does not appear that the fuel solenoid is engaging. I'm guessing that has to do with the same reason why the main solenoid will not engage with the ignition switch.
 

shiftsuper175607

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Ariens 2010 960460001 42" gear drive with Kohler 18hp. I have had the lawnmower for 8 years now and am very familiar with it. Just to make sure that I wasn't having a senior moment, I had my wife sit in it and try. When I attempt to start the mower with the key, I see hear and smell absolutely nothing except the mosquito buzzing around my ear.
As I mentioned, my terminology may not just that of a mechanic--but in my defense, I did not say it was turning over..I said it was turning. The engine turns trying to crank only when closing the solenoid with the screwdriver. It does not appear that the fuel solenoid is engaging. I'm guessing that has to do with the same reason why the main solenoid will not engage with the ignition switch.

As I said...not trying to be critical...just trying to understand your problems

If you jump a screw driver across the solenoid...a good battery will spin that motor very fast. ( If not...there a battery problem)
If you have fire (you said you did) then...

Take off air filter cover and spray some (not too much)starting fluid in carb inlet...
It should start!!!!!!!!!!! It may not run but a few seconds.


If you want to try that....I will be looking for your reply.

Good luck
 

errn12

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I haven't needed starting fluid since I sold the '86 Chevette! I will pick up some tomorrow and give it a try. Will post how it goes. Thanks.
 

bertsmobile1

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If the engine will not turn over ( crank ) with the key switch then you have electrical problems

1) swat that mossie so you can hear and turn the key on and off a few times
listen to the solenoid under the carb, you should hear it turning on & off.
If the ears are not as sharp as they used to be put your finger on it , you should be able to feel it activating and if the hands are like mine old & calloused from years of honest hard work then you can try your tounge or some other part of you anatomy that is very sensitive to the touch :laughing::laughing::laughing:

If nothing then the heavy red wire that comes from the battery will bolt on to terminal with a thin wire.\
Follow that wire and you will come to a fuse, replace it even if it looks good and try again.
 

BlazNT

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I use a small diameter dowl rod touching the carb them my ear. It is amazing how well you can hear that way.
 

ccheatha

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It really sounds an awful lot like your mower thinks the blades are engaged. Since you were working in that area, that's logical to me. You should be able to trace the yellow wire around the mower to all the switches, but I'd suspect that the PTO switch is not engaging.

BTW, I really like this guy's troubleshooting steps when tracing electrical problems: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A8m88LawN0I&t=10s
 
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bertsmobile1

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It really sounds an awful lot like your mower thinks the blades are engaged. Since you were working in that area, that's logical to me. You should be able to trace the yellow wire around the mower to all the switches, but I'd suspect that the PTO switch is not engaging.

BTW, I really like this guy's troubleshooting steps when tracing electrical problems: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A8m88LawN0I&t=10s

One would have thought that Sears would have at least picked a mower with good crimps on the wires.
Those are pretty bad.
I really hate professional videos that are only 1/2 done .
So he tested each of the switches that Sears sells but failed to test the wiring between the key switch & the brake switch and the brake switch & the PTO switch.
Measuring resistance is always problematic particularly on old mowers with a healthy oxide layer on the terminals.
This is why when I go through these proceedure I ask people to jump the B & S terminals on the key switch plug then check for voltage.
This is easier because you do not have to pull the plugs off the back of the switches all you need to do is back probe each side
 
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