Mower runs slow, but gets to speed when tipped back

Jansonsynder

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This mower was a trash pick. So, I got it for free.

Okay, 1st off. The engine is not flooded with oil or fuel from tipping the wrong way. I just cleaned the carburetor and replaced the diaphragm. There is new oil. The spark plug was loose and I noticed that after about 10 minutes of running. I replaced it. I believe I got the gap right. I'll check again to see if it's too wide.

The problem. It runs really slow! BUT, if I tip it back it speeds up to a beautiful hum. Tip it down and it slows and sometimes stops. To be sure it was not flooded I tipped it back and let it sit overnight. No change.

I'm willing to put time into learning a new skill, and saving $$ as a dyi-er. If I break it, it was free no big deal. I've probably put more cost into it with fuel and oil rather than parts. I replaced the pull start for 13 bucks. I can do the job, I just don't know what the job is. I've asked Google and YouTube a hundred different ways and they come up empty.

Help?!

**It has been pointed out that in my sleep deprived post that I failed to give the model # :)

Briggs and Stratton
Model 100000 (500 something series)
Mfg. No: 09L702-0587-F1 (this is the Parts list with diagram I downloaded from the B&S site)

Mower is Troy Bilt, but that doesn't change anything.**
 
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bertsmobile1

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This mower was a trash pick. So, I got it for free.

Okay, 1st off. The engine is not flooded with oil or fuel from tipping the wrong way. I just cleaned the carburetor and replaced the diaphragm. There is new oil. The spark plug was loose and I noticed that after about 10 minutes of running. I replaced it. I believe I got the gap right. I'll check again to see if it's too wide.

The problem. It runs really slow! BUT, if I tip it back it speeds up to a beautiful hum. Tip it down and it slows and sometimes stops. To be sure it was not flooded I tipped it back and let it sit overnight. No change.

I'm willing to put time into learning a new skill, and saving $$ as a dyi-er. If I break it, it was free no big deal. I've probably put more cost into it with fuel and oil rather than parts. I replaced the pull start for 13 bucks. I can do the job, I just don't know what the job is. I've asked Google and YouTube a hundred different ways and they come up empty.

Help?!

:welcome:

Very first thing to learn is you are there with the mower right in front of you.
We are here with a screen in front of us
Thus if you do not tell us we will never know ( if only women were like that )

So lets start with the brand & serial number of both the mower & the engine.
 

Jansonsynder

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:welcome:

Very first thing to learn is you are there with the mower right in front of you.
We are here with a screen in front of us
Thus if you do not tell us we will never know ( if only women were like that )

So lets start with the brand & serial number of both the mower & the engine.

You know I thought the same thing in the middle of the night! Sorry. The engine is a

Briggs and Stratton
Model 100000 (500 something series)
Mfg. No: 09L702-0587-F1 (this is the Parts list with diagram I downloaded from the B&S site)

Mower is Troy Bilt, but that doesn't change anything.
 

bertsmobile1

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So this is a 10 series with the fuel tank sitting on the side of the engine and a plastic carb sitting on top of it.
As for mower making no difference, the engine can be fitted N-S or E-W and the fuel tank can be part of the engine or part of the mower

So for starters pull the tank & carb off. remover the carb and have a good look at the inside of the tank.
The alloy ones are usually OK but the steel ones are oft rusted and once that happens they are throw aways because it will continue to rust.
Clean the carb and replace the diaphragm & gasket.

Also check the kill wire they come loose &/or short out.
 
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Jan from what I see, you have the side mount tank withe the carb on top with 5 screws holding it on......

When you put the diaprahm on did you put it on first then the gasket on top... The tank that is ?????

There is also the well in the tank that needs to be be cleaned out good...

How about your springs ??? There are 2 of those on your engine for the governor.....

Also there are 2 pieces that go in the carb for the intake tube....... One is a O Ring and then a snap cap to hold it in there.... Then the whole assembly slides onto the intake tube........

I have to ask this of you since I wasn't there with you doing this.........

Let us know Mon Ami ~!~!
 

Jansonsynder

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Bourdeaux, the short answer is yes I did everything correctly on the carburetor, super easy. I research a lot to make sure I'm doing something right. I'm this close to taking the Head gasket off to clean the heads and rods. I just don't want to order a new gasket yet, may this winter.

I sharpened the blade really well last fall, so as long as it doesn't stall, it still cuts. poorly, but it still works.

Bertsmobile1, I am now toying with replacing the tank. It does look rusty inside, but I cleaned it as best as I can. It was also dented, so I know whoever had it didn't take care of it. The starter cord was short and had a piece of PVC for a handle.:rolleyes: I even replaced the springs with new ones. But that was last summer and I'm pretty sure I put them on correctly.

I took a video tonight and posted it on YouTube. Here's the link. youtu.be/aYHAoM5pnIE you'll have to highlight the link and search or right click and go to...
and the name is Jason (jansonsynder is just a really old handle I use for everything):tongue:

Thanks for your help so far! Puzzles are fun!
 

bertsmobile1

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Having looked at the video I will hazard a guess that the main jet has fallen out of the carb.
A bit left field but does happen.
That carb & tank is very very common you should be able to pick them up used for $ 10.

When you cleaned the carb you would have noticed the main jet sat in a little well.
Tipping the mower back lowers the fuel level in the well so you are getting less fuel into the engine.
The sound of that engine running is what we call 8 stroking and 8 stroking is always caused by too much fuel.
 

Jansonsynder

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Having looked at the video I will hazard a guess that the main jet has fallen out of the carb.
A bit left field but does happen.

When you cleaned the carb you would have noticed the main jet sat in a little well.
Tipping the mower back lowers the fuel level in the well so you are getting less fuel into the engine...too much fuel.

Thanks! I'll post a pic later, but isn't my carb a one piece kinda? Are you talking about that little white part? I wouldn't come out. Should it? Also, I did accidentally crush the screen. I reformed it, but could that be it? I'll post a pic
once i got my required 5 posts. Lol
 

bertsmobile1

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Thanks! I'll post a pic later, but isn't my carb a one piece kinda? Are you talking about that little white part? I wouldn't come out. Should it? Also, I did accidentally crush the screen. I reformed it, but could that be it? I'll post a pic
once i got my required 5 posts. Lol

Nothing like a one piece carb and it does have a main jet.
Go to http://outdoorpowerinfo.com and look at the instructions for cleaning the carb.
People attack their carbs with compressed air at 120 psi which can blow things like main jets into another dimension.
Most common with the Nikki carbs with the white jet holders.
 

Jansonsynder

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This post is just #5 so I can comment with links.
 

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