Regulator / Rectifier no D/c

clarkman5000

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Going to jump purple wire this am and see what ive got. Thanks so much for your advice . Working on equipment for long time and I learn as I go but electricity is sometimes hard for me to wrap my head around . Always try to do my own work on my trucks tractors and lawn equipment always willing to learn from folks like you . Thank you for your time..




Jumped the wire. Same reading . Wondering why my other mower has lots of voltage coming from BOTH a/c terminals and bad motor only from one ?
 

Luffydog

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If you put the wire on the + side of battery to the center post on the regulator purple wire there is no way you shouldn't have 12 volts dc unless you don't have have a ground on the regulator. So also run a wire from - side of the battery to the regulator that should have you charging if you crank the engine and check the dc voltage then turn engine off and recheck voltage if the same check fuses,wiring,regulator,and if still no charge more than likely your stator has failed but can't rule out the flywheel or possibly both or all the above
 

clarkman5000

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Going to jump purple wire this am and see what ive got. Thanks so much for your advice . Working on equipment for long time and I learn as I go but electricity is sometimes hard for me to wrap my head around . Always try to do my own work on my trucks tractors and lawn equipment always willing to learn from folks like you . Thank you for your time..

So I jumped the purplewire , Still nothing . I,m going to look at stator seeing that I have only one white wire producing . Maybe I'll find why no juice from battery under the cover .
 

bertsmobile1

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Are you changing the meter from DC to AC when you check the output from the white wires ?
You should see the 41 volts AC ( actually that is a bit high ) between the two white wires and if the 41V is correct 20.5 V AC between either of them and ground.
If you have left the meter on DC you get the type of readings you are reporting.
If you pull the purple wire off the rectifier it should read the same voltage to ground as the battery reads between the terminals with the key turned on.
IF not you have a bad connection some where.
As already mentioned there was a factory service sheet advising the Purple wire go directly to the red wire and bypass the key switch.
Some manufacturers recommended connecting it directly to the hot terminal on the solenoid by cutting & fitting a ring terminal while others recommended splicing it between the fuse & the B terminal .
When I do one I use another fuse to connect the purple wire to the battery hot terminal cause I like to have things fused.
 

clarkman5000

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Are you changing the meter from DC to AC when you check the output from the white wires ?
You should see the 41 volts AC ( actually that is a bit high ) between the two white wires and if the 41V is correct 20.5 V AC between either of them and ground.
If you have left the meter on DC you get the type of readings you are reporting.
If you pull the purple wire off the rectifier it should read the same voltage to ground as the battery reads between the terminals with the key turned on.
IF not you have a bad connection some where.
As already mentioned there was a factory service sheet advising the Purple wire go directly to the red wire and bypass the key switch.
Some manufacturers recommended connecting it directly to the hot terminal on the solenoid by cutting & fitting a ring terminal while others recommended splicing it between the fuse & the B terminal .
When I do one I use another fuse to connect the purple wire to the battery hot terminal cause I like to have things fused.

Well this was a learning experience and thank you for all the input and time .. My parts replacing gene was giving me vibes to replace the Key switch in the beginning with the rectifier ( which was bad anyway ) KEY SWITCH .. Narrowed it to that with your help on what and where to test. Almost went to the shop, probably saved $500 .. THANK YOU ALL AGAIN.
 

bertsmobile1

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Also not all rectifiers are wired the same some are AC-DC-AC while others are AC-AC-DC so make sure you get a Kohler one.
Remember electricity only flows when there is a circuit which means you need a + and a - connection.
Most rectifiers use the case as both a heat sink and the - connection so the outside on the rectifiers must be connected to ground.
Kohler tend to us a flat strap from one of the blower housing bolts to one of the rectifier mounting bolts.
This strap breaks due to vibration so if it is not making a connection then the middle wire can not provide any power.
When I service engine with a rectifier mounted in the plastic blower housing, I make two ground straps and ground the rectifier on both sides to different grounding points.
 

clarkman5000

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Also not all rectifiers are wired the same some are AC-DC-AC while others are AC-AC-DC so make sure you get a Kohler one.
Remember electricity only flows when there is a circuit which means you need a + and a - connection.
Most rectifiers use the case as both a heat sink and the - connection so the outside on the rectifiers must be connected to ground.
Kohler tend to us a flat strap from one of the blower housing bolts to one of the rectifier mounting bolts.
This strap breaks due to vibration so if it is not making a connection then the middle wire can not provide any power.
When I service engine with a rectifier mounted in the plastic blower housing, I make two ground straps and ground the rectifier on both sides to different grounding points.

Check out my last post .. It was a Bad key switch
 
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