Leaking axle seal?

spamble11

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I looked at the parts manual and do not see a seal on the front axle. It looks like I have one leaking (oil inside the rim/bottom of axle and a few drops on the floor).

Anyone know if there is a seal?

I have a Ventrac. 4000 with the 950 Briggs in it. It’s a 2001 with set: VAA1302

Thanks for any help

Kevin
 

spamble11

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ANyone got anything? Replacement instructions? Video?

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Thank for any help
 

spamble11

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If any of you have this. Here you go.

So I replaced the left front axle seal and bearing on my 2001 model 4000. It was fairly routine and DOES NOT require lowering the front differential out. I determined the axle seal was leaking as I had hyrdo fluid inside my rim. When I pulled the axle, there was fluid in the axle tube and there really shouldn't be anything there.

Here is the R/R process in a quick fashion (this is not a Haynes manual :).

Drain fluid
Jack up the tractor and block it toward the rear of the front section. You need to be able to pull the triangle skid plate off later. There is a brace toward the rear of the front that you can use.
Remove front to back stabilizer bar at the front only (you may want to do this before jacking it up to avoid tension). You may have to move this to the side to access the front diff drain plug too, so this technically may be step one.
Remove tire and measure the distance the axle sticks out of the hub so you can put it back there.
Remove hub - Take out the 3 bolts in the hub. Use 2 of the 3 bolts in the hub to walk apart the hub to separate it. You'll see 2 dead holes in the hub that use can use to walk it apart. Go from one to the other back and forth, a hammer will likely be used and heat is always a good idea. Keep track of the 2 key ways (1 on the axle, 1 on the hub that is captive when putting it back together).
Remove the four wheel bearing bolts.
Carefully slide out axle. Use hammer to tap old bearing off. (mine was fine so I kept it just in case I need one in the future - no play at all).
Remove the two 1/2 bolts/nuts for the oil drain hose plate. It helps you get access to things. Just remove the hardware so you can move the plate around.
Remove the triangle skid plate from the bottom of the tractor. I think it was 7 bolts including one for the steering ram linkage, 8 if you count the center link bolt which you already removed.
Remove the left axle tube. There are two bolts from the top that you can access by using a 3/8 extension and 3/4 socket from above. No need to unhook the transfer spring, just push it aside with the extension. The side/top two axle tube bolts are the most difficult due to space. I used a stubby 3/4 ratcheting wrench and pry bar for some extra beef. Whatever combo you can get in there is fine, the bolts won't come all the way out due to space but will come down with the tube. Remove the rest of the bolts, 6 i think.
Remove a small metal race that sits outside the seal.
Remove the seal, replace with new one. I lightly tapped it to get it started and then used the race to get it a little deeper. Pay attention to how far in the old seal was and get the new one as close to the same spot as you can. I don't think there was any edge in there for the seal to seat against, so don't go too far.
Reinstall axle tube (remember to pre-load the top 2 side bolts because you cannot get them in there with the tube in place.
I sanded the end of the axle where the bearing was going on because I didn't have a press and wanted it to go on easily. The bearing just about made it all the way to its seating edge by hand. Then I used a brass punch and tapped the inside, not the outside, of the bearing and it went right on with just a couple taps. Very easy. Ideally a press should be used. I did not sand where the axle seal and axle meet. Maybe this is a good idea but, I did not want to change anything there and it looked smooth. If it is rough, consider doing it just don't go nuts. A little Emory cloth and that's it.
Add the axle and bolt it in with 4 bolts. Be very careful when putting the axle back in. You don't want to damage the seal you just put in.
Be careful when putting the hub back on that the internal key way is located in the correct place. If it isn't it won't bolt together. Otherwise, get that and the axle key way lined up and put the hub back where it was before. I measured the other side to line it up and put it on with 1 1/8' of the axle protruding from the hub. If you don't sand where the bearing slides on there will be a line letting you know where to stop.
At this point you have options. I put the rest of the drive system back together and added fluid. Then I put the triangle piece back on after with it on the ground. I did get it started and close to in place before letting the tractor back down to the ground. You can do it either way, I just wanted the drive system sealed back up as fast I possible to avoid contamination as I had just completely serviced the entire tractor (yes including the f'ing front hydro unit) just a couple months ago.
After that, make sure everything it tight and fill the front diff with fluid.

Then get back to work.
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