Repairs 2000 ZT 219 Bobocat spindle removal

edgo

Forum Newbie
Joined
Jun 27, 2018
Threads
1
Messages
4
I have a 2000 model Bobcat ZT 219. I need to remove the center spindle on the 52" side discharge cutting deck. Parts manual shows a spindle nut and retaining snap ring below the deck on this top mount spindle. I have removed the belts, blade, spindle nut & retaining ring. I assumed that would release the blade/spindle shaft and pulleys so that I could pull up on top spindle shaft and access the spindle housing bolts from above. The 4 bolts that attach the spindle housing to the top of the deck is the problem & can't be accessed without the pulleys being removed. How do I remove either the pulleys or the shaft with pulleys in place???
 

bertsmobile1

Lawn Royalty
Joined
Nov 29, 2014
Threads
64
Messages
24,647
On spindle pulleys with a drive key in them you generally have to drive the spindle out through the pulley to get the pulley off.
They get wet then the keys rust in solid if they are not removed every few years and greased ( never seize ).
Best done with an air hammer .
Replace the bolt with an allan headed one that screws in so the head bottoms on the shaft not the hole.
Round off a punch for the air hammer so it fits inside the allan head, lean heavy on the hammer and fire it up.
The shafts are a "light press fit" in the bearings which are a light press fit in the housings.
Usually the top bearing will stay in the housing & the bottom come out with the shaft.

IF using an air hammer the blade can stay on.
If using a 10 lb hammer the blade will need to come off and the spindle housing will need to be supported with some tube of the flange may break off

Steel pulleys can be cooked up to a dull red plastic pulleys will most likely break no matter what.
 

edgo

Forum Newbie
Joined
Jun 27, 2018
Threads
1
Messages
4
Thanks Bert1mobile. I think my pulleys will slide off with a puller (they appear to have been removed/replaced before) once the retaining bolt on top is removed. My problem is getting the top retaining bolt out of the spindle shaft. Cannot get any torque on it without the blade bolt and spindle nut coming loose.
 

bertsmobile1

Lawn Royalty
Joined
Nov 29, 2014
Threads
64
Messages
24,647
Hold the blade & over tighten it
Then attack the bolt with a rattle gun.
I regularly have to cut the heads off them because they rust in place.
Don't forget the never seize when you put them back
 

edgo

Forum Newbie
Joined
Jun 27, 2018
Threads
1
Messages
4
Thanks again bertsmobile1. Tried your last suggestion of 6/29. Thought working when discovered blade bolt was just loosening. Tried several other methods with tools/equipment I had to hold spindle shaft in place without success. Found & purchased a GM spanner wrench that fit holes in top mounted pulley. With 2 cheater bars & lots of PB blaster finally broke loose. I had to use same spanner wrench with 3 jaw 7" diameter puller, 2 cheater bars, more PB blaster & lots of torque to remove the top pulley. Discovered bottom pulley key had slide out of shaft slot wearing down spindle shaft. So, after attempt to remove bottom pulley in same manner--had to drill out the slipped key with 1/4" bit to remove. Both pulleys were bent in process of removal. Spindle shaft & bottom pulley were damaged beyond reuse before removal. (Had planned to reuse all if in ok shape). The problem originally trying to repair (loose spindle to deck bolts)--found bolts stripped--so should be easier repair with bit longer bolts thru spindle housing base & deck locked down with nuts. Believe the cause of bolts stripping was the slipped key from the spindle shaft slot causing out of center spin/balance/rotation of bottom pulley & shaft wear. Who knows. Amazing to me how well this mower was mowing until 3 of the deck bolts stripped. Now to find replacement spindle assembly, housing & pulleys. And, reference seizing--I am a firm believer in using anti-seize compound when replacing parts. Thanks again!
 

bertsmobile1

Lawn Royalty
Joined
Nov 29, 2014
Threads
64
Messages
24,647
A bit late now but pulleys can just about never get removed using a pulley without being damaged beyond use, they are just not strong enough, unless you can get something like a bearing plate under the center boss on the pulley.
This is why it was suggested to drive the shaft through the pulley.
I have heated up some red hot on more than one occasion to break the rust bond.
Apart from wrecking the paint heating does not seem to damage the pulleys.

The tool set that came with my compressor 40 years ago had an air hammer in it which sat in the plastic case for 30 years then in the bottom tool draw for another 5 till I started working on mowers.

Now it is a daily use tool for removing pulleys and rear wheels.

Once back together make a note to remover the pulleys every time you replace the blades or every 3 years which ever comes first for some more anti sieze.
Do the rear wheels at the same time.
Both are 5 minute jobs till rust gets a hold
 

edgo

Forum Newbie
Joined
Jun 27, 2018
Threads
1
Messages
4
Got it! thanks so much.
 
Top