Tiger Cat II deck adjustment

jekjr

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We were not gettin the performance we needed on our latest Tiger Cat II. We placed it on a cement slab and checked the deck. It was high in the front. We dropped it till the deck was 1/4" lower in the front. That was a game changer on tall grass.

1/4" lower on the front with the inside front baffle in the highest position makes all of the difference in the world on tall stemmed grass.
 

Steve0853

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Did you measure from the front of the deck and the back of the deck? or did you measure from the blade tip at the front of the deck and the blade tip at the rear of the deck?
 

jekjr

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Did you measure from the front of the deck and the back of the deck? or did you measure from the blade tip at the front of the deck and the blade tip at the rear of the deck?

I actually measured from the top of the deck to the cement.
 

mcdonell

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Thanks for the info. Just yesterday my son was complaining his new Tiger Cat II was requiring a second pass on tall stem grass. I forwarded your info to him.
 

Steve0853

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Thanks JEK....
I've adjusted every way I can think of. Like Mcdonell, I have to double cut almost everything if I want it to look good. I have cut over some Bahia patches that didn't even look like the blades were turning.

Funny thing is that I can double cut almost full speed and it looks great. However, I can't go slow enough to make it look good in one pass.

It's maddening that my sister has a 15 year old Toro with 72 inch deck that's on its last legs, but she can cut almost wide open and it the grass looks great with one pass.
 

tommygun715

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Hi. Glad I found this thread. I just purchased a new TC2 52" Kawasaki last fall but my mowing started this year. I'm particular about a nice clean even cut, which is why I went with this mower and the velocity deck. But I don't think it's cutting like it should, especially around the tire track area. Like someone else said here, I have to double cut in order to make it look nice, but even then, I can find some flaws. On slopes, it will scalp on the low side. I've cut anywhere between 3.5" to 2.75", I've gone slow, but like someone else said, it might cut better going a little faster. The only adjustments I've made has been with the baffle. I lowered it 1 notch to create more vacuum(?) and thought it helped some, but not sure. I slightly over inflated the rear tires to 20lbs, but that really hasn't helped.

I can post pics, but I think my WI yard is a mix of rye, fescue and Kentucky Blue grass. My yard is pretty thick since it is irrigated and gets (3) fertilizer treatments yearly.

So how, or what is the best way to check for a level deck?

Ideally, should it be 1/4" lower in the front?

What is the proper position of the anti-scalping wheels?

Would high lift blades make a difference?

Should I raise that baffle higher?

Thx!
 

jekjr

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Hi. Glad I found this thread. I just purchased a new TC2 52" Kawasaki last fall but my mowing started this year. I'm particular about a nice clean even cut, which is why I went with this mower and the velocity deck. But I don't think it's cutting like it should, especially around the tire track area. Like someone else said here, I have to double cut in order to make it look nice, but even then, I can find some flaws. On slopes, it will scalp on the low side. I've cut anywhere between 3.5" to 2.75", I've gone slow, but like someone else said, it might cut better going a little faster. The only adjustments I've made has been with the baffle. I lowered it 1 notch to create more vacuum(?) and thought it helped some, but not sure. I slightly over inflated the rear tires to 20lbs, but that really hasn't helped.

I can post pics, but I think my WI yard is a mix of rye, fescue and Kentucky Blue grass. My yard is pretty thick since it is irrigated and gets (3) fertilizer treatments yearly.

So how, or what is the best way to check for a level deck?

Ideally, should it be 1/4" lower in the front?

What is the proper position of the anti-scalping wheels?

Would high lift blades make a difference?

Should I raise that baffle higher?

Thx!
A Tiger Cat Scag with a Velocity Deck, set up as described with sharp high lift blades will cut Bahia Grass over knee deep in one pass. If it does not then there is an issue. We run them all day long day in and day out doing that. We have four of them.
 

jekjr

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Hi. Glad I found this thread. I just purchased a new TC2 52" Kawasaki last fall but my mowing started this year. I'm particular about a nice clean even cut, which is why I went with this mower and the velocity deck. But I don't think it's cutting like it should, especially around the tire track area. Like someone else said here, I have to double cut in order to make it look nice, but even then, I can find some flaws. On slopes, it will scalp on the low side. I've cut anywhere between 3.5" to 2.75", I've gone slow, but like someone else said, it might cut better going a little faster. The only adjustments I've made has been with the baffle. I lowered it 1 notch to create more vacuum(?) and thought it helped some, but not sure. I slightly over inflated the rear tires to 20lbs, but that really hasn't helped.

I can post pics, but I think my WI yard is a mix of rye, fescue and Kentucky Blue grass. My yard is pretty thick since it is irrigated and gets (3) fertilizer treatments yearly.

So how, or what is the best way to check for a level deck?

Ideally, should it be 1/4" lower in the front?

What is the proper position of the anti-scalping wheels?

Would high lift blades make a difference?

Should I raise that baffle higher?

Thx!

The way we check is:
First check tire pressure and make sure that it is exactly as it should be. A slight differential in the rear times can make a difference on complete level.

Then after that is achieved we place the mower on a level concrete surface.

Set the deck at normal cutting height. Normally for us 3.

Then measure from the top of the deck to the floor at both rear sides. This should be an exact measurement.

Then check the from measurement.

It should be 1/4" lower. You don't want any more than 1/4" but it needs to be slightly lower than the back.
Then we take a tape measure and me

We run the baffle that is underneath in the highest position to cut bahia grass.
I have been told you can completely remover it but we never have.

I have never touched the scalping wheels as far as adjustment.

Yes 1/4" lower in the front.

We only run high lift blades to cut bahia grass. Also we change them normally first thing in the morning and then some time before lunch many days and then some days early afternoon.
That is on mowers that run all day long either cutting acreage or 15 or 16 yards a day that are smaller.

A tiger cat will cut 2 acres of decently heavy bahia grass but if it is really deep it will not cut it that fast and it will work on blades. I have never seen anything that will out cut one on Bahia grass.
 

tommygun715

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The way we check is:
First check tire pressure and make sure that it is exactly as it should be. A slight differential in the rear times can make a difference on complete level.

Then after that is achieved we place the mower on a level concrete surface.

Set the deck at normal cutting height. Normally for us 3.

Then measure from the top of the deck to the floor at both rear sides. This should be an exact measurement.

Then check the from measurement.

It should be 1/4" lower. You don't want any more than 1/4" but it needs to be slightly lower than the back.
Then we take a tape measure and me

We run the baffle that is underneath in the highest position to cut bahia grass.
I have been told you can completely remover it but we never have.

I have never touched the scalping wheels as far as adjustment.

Yes 1/4" lower in the front.

We only run high lift blades to cut bahia grass. Also we change them normally first thing in the morning and then some time before lunch many days and then some days early afternoon.
That is on mowers that run all day long either cutting acreage or 15 or 16 yards a day that are smaller.

A tiger cat will cut 2 acres of decently heavy bahia grass but if it is really deep it will not cut it that fast and it will work on blades. I have never seen anything that will out cut one on Bahia grass.

Just thought I would post an update. So jekjr, I did exactly what you described above. Along with the manual and your detailed instruction, I was surprised to find the the left rear of the deck was higher than the right rear by almost 1/2 in! So there's no way it could've been inspected before delivery. Anyway, It wasn't too hard to adjust the deck either. So with 1/4in downward pitch in the front, newly sharpened blades and equal tire pressure, I was amazed at the results! My TC2 now cuts like I expected it too. So "thanks so much" for the instruction. My only other question, what psi do you have your tires? Do you go by the manual, or something slightly different? Thx again!
 

jekjr

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Just thought I would post an update. So jekjr, I did exactly what you described above. Along with the manual and your detailed instruction, I was surprised to find the the left rear of the deck was higher than the right rear by almost 1/2 in! So there's no way it could've been inspected before delivery. Anyway, It wasn't too hard to adjust the deck either. So with 1/4in downward pitch in the front, newly sharpened blades and equal tire pressure, I was amazed at the results! My TC2 now cuts like I expected it too. So "thanks so much" for the instruction. My only other question, what psi do you have your tires? Do you go by the manual, or something slightly different? Thx again!

I run them a little higher normally because I am heavy. If they are a little high they will in my opinion handle hills running across them better to keep them from making them look like you are running a low tire........

Tire pressure is critical that you keep them correct from side to side. In other words same pressure in both rear tires. Cutting grass that is not real tall where you are running flat out wide open a small differential is noticeable on the cut.
 
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