Tecumseh Engine Running Lean on Startup

Guggenheim24

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Engine is off of an older Toro Recycler (not sure of year of mower itself) When first starting the motor from cold, it will run for about 3 seconds and die. It will do this same thing about 4 more times before I can get it running smooth. Every time it dies, I reprime it, pull the cord and it fires up. If I prime it right before it dies, it will stay running. After about 4 times, I can finally get it to run continuously, but it builds revs really slowly, and won't be at full power until like 2 minutes of warming it up. Once it warms completely, it starts and runs with no issues. It seems like it's starving for fuel when the engine is cold. We've rebuilt the carburetor, replaced the emulsion tube, along with the O-rings on it, new air filter, new gaskets on the intake. Gas is ran out every fall, and I use stabil throughout its running season, so fuel degradation during and after the season is not an issue. It did this issue before we tore the carb apart, and still does after the rebuild of the carburetor. Any ideas? Thanks. (I copied every number off the info plate, some may not be necessary, just wasn't sure)
Engine Information:
Model: LEV120
Spec: 361560B
DOM: 02294DA1059
Engine Family: 2TPXS.1951BC
Disp: 195cc
 

EngineMan

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If you have good compression and good fuel supply from tank to carb, then you need to completely clean the carb again, also check the gasket from carb to engine block.
 

Rivets

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Plus check the float level.
 

Guggenheim24

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I've performed everything you guys have suggested, and it still won't run right. I might just get a new carb. Since I'm confident it is running lean, I want to see if I can find an adjustable carb for it. I did some research. Would this one fit my machine based on the specs I gave above? If not, any suggestions on what will fit? Or am I out of luck? Thanks.
 

Rivets

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Have you replaced the float needle and seat, part number 621031B. I’ve done hundreds of these carb using this procedure and I have about a 98% success. Try it before you go replacing the carb, it works if you follow the procedure to the letter.

[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]Needle and seat replacement.[/FONT][/FONT]
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[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]Remove the carb, and then remove the float bowl. Check the float bowl jet (which is the bowl screw) and make sure the jets both horizontal and vertical are clean and open. Tip the carb upside down and remove the float pin and float with needle attached. Look in the float needle passage and you should see the red float seat at the bottom of the passage. This is where a #5 crotchet hook would come in handy as you need to remove this seat. If you have no hook, but compressed air, you can blow through the fuel inlet and try to pop the seat out. Put your thumb over the passage to prevent the seat from flying who knows where. No air or hook try bending a stiff paper clip to dig the seat out.[/FONT][/FONT]
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[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]I would either give the carb a good 24 hour soaking or have it ultrasonically cleaned at this time.[/FONT][/FONT]
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[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]With the seat out clean the passage way with carb cleaner. Now you must find a drill bit slightly smaller than the passage way, to be used to press in the new seat. Apply a very, very small amount of a very light lube to the new seat. 3-1 oil or lighter, to help seat it better. Carefully insert the new seat in the passage way with the rings on the seat down toward the carb body. Slowly and carefully force the seat down with the back end of the drill bit. Once it is seated, check to see that it did not flip and the rings are up. Next check to make sure that the float does not have any liquid in it. If it does, replace. If everything looks correct, attach the new needle to the float and install with the float pin centered. It everything is correct, the float should seat level to the carb body, when looking at it upside down. If everything looks good reattach the float bowl, making sure that both the bowl gasket and the nut gasket seal properly. Reinstall on the engine and test unit. Remember to have patience and take your time. Good luck, but I don't think you'll need it.[/FONT][/FONT]
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[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]PS: On the side of some Tecumseh carbs you will find a plastic cover. Under this cover will be an idle jet. Remove it and check to see that the jet is open both horizontally and vertically. You should be able to push the old float needle wire through the vertical opening.[/FONT][/FONT]
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primerbulb120

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I always just replace them, costs less than the time and labor to clean and rebuild.

https://m.ebay.com/itm/GENUINE-TECU...869314?hash=item3aa8c95282:g:2cgAAOxy2CZTYQlZ

There are lots of listings out there that claim to be "genuine OEM" but aren't. This one is genuine. Sold by Green Dade Outdoor out of Miami FL. By the way, I am not affiliated with the seller except for buying their parts.

I put this on all the Tecumsehs that it will fit. If the jets are different sizes, I swap the jets from the old carb over.
 
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