T242X: No ignition

stanward

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Hello,

I am trying to repair my Shindaiwa T242X. I dropped the line trimmer and the ignition coil hit the flywheel, gouging both surfaces. I re-aligned the ignition coil to an airgap of 0.012" and I don't get spark at all. I bought a new ignition coil and only get one spark for every 5 pulls of the rope.

I then bought a new flywheel, same problem with only one spark for every 5 pulls. I bought another new ignition coil, same problem. I then bought a new spark plug, same problem. I checked the operation of the On/Off switch, and that works fine. I also disconnected the connector (between the switch and the coil), same problem.

I don't know what else to do.

Please help,

Stan
 

MowerMike

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Well, first off, I simply cannot understand how you could have done this without completely destroying the housing. Also, the gap between the coil pickup and flywheel is not adjustable, and the bolts would have to be broken for it to change. The on/off switch is just a kill switch that grounds the coil secondary winding to prevent a spark, and is not needed for the engine to run. When you replaced the coil, did you remember to use the insulators on the bolts between the coil and frame ? You should get a spark for every revolution of the flywheel.
 

stanward

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Thank you for your reply.

I used a business card that is 0.012" thick to readjust the airgap between the coil and the flywheel magnets. I did use the insulators between the coil and the frame. I find it hard to believe that I would have two defective BRAND NEW ignition coils. I did try to put the old ignition coil back in, using the business card to adjust the airgap. The old ignition coil produces zero spark. Whereas the two brand new ignition coils produce a spark for every 5 pulls of the rope.

I even took the ignition coil off of my Shindaiwa M230 and readjusted the airgap using the same method above. And the M230 works flawlessly.

Well, first off, I simply cannot understand how you could have done this without completely destroying the housing. Also, the gap between the coil pickup and flywheel is not adjustable, and the bolts would have to be broken for it to change. The on/off switch is just a kill switch that grounds the coil secondary winding to prevent a spark, and is not needed for the engine to run. When you replaced the coil, did you remember to use the insulators on the bolts between the coil and frame ? You should get a spark for every revolution of the flywheel.
 

MowerMike

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Do the coils include the plug wire and cap with terminal ? How are you determining when a spark occurs ? Are you sure the recoil starter is actually turning the engine crankshaft on every pull ? Is the flywheel mounted tightly on the crankshaft ? Did you use the shaft key when you installed the new flywheel?
 
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stanward

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Thank you for your speedy response.

The coils do not include the plug wire and cap with terminal. I transfer these onto the new coil plug.

I have the plastic housing removed so I can see the coil, flywheel. I connect the spark plug to the ignition coil and hold the spark plug against the cylinder. I pull the rope and watch the spark jump across the spark plug gap. I do this in a dimly lit room.

The flywheel is mounted tightly onto the crankshaft and used the woodruff key that was already on there. With the plastic housing removed, I can easily see the flywheel rotating.

Do the coils include the plug wire and cap with terminal ? How are you determining when a spark occurs ? Are you sure the recoil starter is actually turning the engine crankshaft on every pull ? Is the flywheel mounted tightly on the crankshaft ? Did you use the shaft key when you installed the new crankshaft ?
 

MowerMike

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Well then, the only other thing I can think of is that the spark plug wire and terminal are either damaged or not fully/properly connected to the coil. I’ll assume the plug terminal is properly pressed onto the plug. Did you check the gap on the new plug ?
 
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