Honda GCV160 Mower "kickback" when starting

DPDISXR4Ti

Member
Joined
Dec 12, 2017
Threads
5
Messages
33
I picked up a used HR215 with the same kick-back problem. I found the valves to be out of adjustment, and re-setting the valves to the proper gap solved this problem.

I haven't had a chance to investigate further yet, so thanks for the confirmation on the likely cause. Funny enough, I have a non-runner HRA214 that I'm sorta "parting out" - got it for free, but not enough time to bother with it when I have three other mowers that work.
 

DPDISXR4Ti

Member
Joined
Dec 12, 2017
Threads
5
Messages
33
After having the pull-cord break on me the other day, I decided today I would work on this thing. Got the cam cover off with a bit of effort. That damn Hondabond is great until you need it to come un-done!

Rotated to TDC and promptly found that the exhaust valve lash was over .63mm - the thickest feeler gauge I have - it was probably about 4x over spec! So I've just now set it to .20mm.

Not mentioned above, but the intake side should be set around .15mm. Off to do that now.

Should I be checking anything else?
 

Scrubcadet10

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Sep 24, 2017
Threads
250
Messages
6,437
A common problem is the exhaust rocker arm can crack, so look for any hairline splits so you dont have to do this over again
 

DPDISXR4Ti

Member
Joined
Dec 12, 2017
Threads
5
Messages
33
A common problem is the exhaust rocker arm can crack, so look for any hairline splits so you dont have to do this over again

I took the rockers off and inspected them - they both looked good.

The intake lash was only a little over - about .25mm - so I set that to .15mm and buttoned things back up.

Now I need to figure out how to set the rewind on the pull cord. I presume there's some process of setting a pre-load.
 

bertsmobile1

Lawn Royalty
Joined
Nov 29, 2014
Threads
64
Messages
24,702
Take the string off
Wind the pulley to the end of it's travel.
Rotate the pulley backwards till the holes line up then replace the string.
This way the string will end just before the spring bottoms out.
 

DPDISXR4Ti

Member
Joined
Dec 12, 2017
Threads
5
Messages
33
Take the string off
Wind the pulley to the end of it's travel.
Rotate the pulley backwards till the holes line up then replace the string.
This way the string will end just before the spring bottoms out.

Thanks! Got it done.

Just started it up on two pulls. Started easier and no kick-back! I think I'm calling it fixed!

Two footnotes for anyone doing this in the future...
1) The nut for the rockers requires a 9mm socket.
2) You'll need some RTV for re-sealing the cam cover. Too bad they didn't use a re-usable rubber gasket as it would make life easier.
 

DPDISXR4Ti

Member
Joined
Dec 12, 2017
Threads
5
Messages
33
Ran the power-washer again yesterday and every time now it started easily on the first pull. I can't believe I fought with this issue for so long!
 

hppants

Forum Newbie
Joined
May 2, 2020
Threads
1
Messages
7
In post #5 of this thread, I'm trying to figure out which position the decompressor needs to be in the slot with the motor at rest. Looking at it from the top (as shown), mine is all the way to the right. If I slide it to the left, it does retract (very slowly) back to the right.

My exhaust valve has ZERO clearance to it.

Is my decompressor/cam pulley OK?
 

DPDISXR4Ti

Member
Joined
Dec 12, 2017
Threads
5
Messages
33
My exhaust valve has ZERO clearance to it.

Unless someone has already been in there and mucked with the exhaust lash, I'd say you have some other issue. I'm saying this since typically the clearance increases with use, not decreases. I don't recall enough to tell you how the decompressor works or is located, but I think that's a good place to look since I'm assuming it leaves the exhaust valve hanging open at start-up.
 

hppants

Forum Newbie
Joined
May 2, 2020
Threads
1
Messages
7
On every "non-hydraulic" valve train that I am familiar with, the clearance typically decreases with wear, as the valve seats and valves wear over time and use. None the less, I do have NO clearance on the exhaust valve now.

No one has been into this motor, as I bought it new.

If I slide the "decompressor" in the slot to the left, hold it there (because the very weak spring will return it to the right), and turn the motor, the exhaust valve clearance does not change (still holds at zero). So I'm kind of perplexed as to whether or not the decompressor is working properly or not.

Mower won't start. Won't fart or run on carb cleaner. I've cleaned out the carb (it's clean - trust me). I've got fire. I've got no compression, but I'm not surprised since the exhaust valve has no clearance. I have NOT pulled the flywheel to see if the key has sheared.

(scratching my head)

Thoughts?
 
Top