Towing Freewheeling lever rod rusted or locked

I have a Craftsman model 917.273401 that will not disengage for pushing or towing. Rear wheels slide only. Transaxle works perfectly for mowing. Unit sat idle for several years. I captured the photo from someone's earlier post showing the subject lever.

I did not mention that I have applied penetrating oil and used light tapping after removing the lever to no avail. Also gentle force to rotate or move rod in case.

What you are looking at is the break. Free wheel rod comes out the back of the mower. Lift pull then latch for free wheel. I will search foe a picture of it and get back too you with it.

I did not find a picture but did find your manual.
searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Craftsman-Parts/Riding-Mower-Tractor-Parts/user-manuals/manual-downloads/Model-917273401/0247/1509200?modelNumber=917273401&diagramPageId=&documentId=

I made another attempt to free up the rod into the transmission or differential by removing the bolt holding the lever in place. I again used penetrating oil and a 3/8" ratchet extension backwards so that the square socket end fit snugly over the squared top of the shifting rod and used an 18" crescent wrench to endeavor to turn the rod. It did move slightly and I repeatedly moved it back and forth. I does release from drive to freewheeling now. It is not loose enough for the attached spring and rod extending from the rear of the housing to release, nor is there any apparent return spring action to move it back into drive once positioned to do so. I applied a grease around the washer headed rod underneath where it enters the transmission case. Hopefully it will eventually loosen adequately to function correctly. Thanks for your efforts and information!

Hello, Hello,
Is any one home ?
you are undoing the brake.
You are going to kill yoursef, your children and any one near by when you mow.
Loosen it off and there is no way to stop the mower moving.

The brake works on the layshaft which locks the differential so one wheel can move foreward while the other wheel can only go backwards so the mower stops.
It can only move 1/10 of a turn in either direction. That is exactly what it is supposed to do.

The bypass ( freewheeling ) lever is the part numbered 95 in the diagram below.
It hangs out the bum of the mower as you were previously told.
View attachment craftsman_917273401.pdf

I have partially solved my problem by doing as I described in my previous post and as viewed in the photo that I attached to my first post. I have have had the Sears Direct manual for 2 months and know where the parts are located. The part numbered 95 is the lever I was referring to.
I have not bothered the brake rod and system. I did that 2 months ago. The Lever and rod that locks and unlocks the differential is what I freed up as it was frozen tight and no movement. As explained in the previous post the slight movement is not loosely movable and therefore will not return to the drive position when released. If you should know how to make it move more freely please advise. I will greatly appreciate the info. Otherwise I will continue to operate it as is until such time as it becomes more free to move.
Thank you for your input.
********************************************
(Hello, Hello,
Is any one home ?
you are undoing the brake.
You are going to kill yoursef, your children and any one near by when you mow.
Loosen it off and there is no way to stop the mower moving.

The brake works on the layshaft which locks the differential so one wheel can move foreward while the other wheel can only go backwards so the mower stops.
It can only move 1/10 of a turn in either direction. That is exactly what it is supposed to do.

The bypass ( freewheeling ) lever is the part numbered 95 in the diagram below.
It hangs out the bum of the mower as you were previously told.
craftsman_917273401.pdf)

Well that is a relief
It is not what the photo looked like..
They do get rusted up a bit particularly with owners who hose down rather than blow down their mowers.
A 50:50 mix of acetone & ATF is the best penetrating fluid you will get but don't put it in a plastic bottle.
Kroil is the next best if ou want to buy a ready made product.
It is a small shaft and easily broken so be careful that are a PIA to replace.

Thanks Bertsmobile1- I have placed grease around the shaft in hopes that it would operate more freely. Not yet, so I will put the machine in operation for a time to possibly heat the lubricant and allow it to get into the case bushing. If not, I will then remove the lubricant and try your mixture to loosen it. Appreciate your advice!

bertsmobile1 said:

Well that is a relief
It is not what the photo looked like..
They do get rusted up a bit particularly with owners who hose down rather than blow down their mowers.
A 50:50 mix of acetone & ATF is the best penetrating fluid you will get but don't put it in a plastic bottle.
Kroil is the next best if ou want to buy a ready made product.
It is a small shaft and easily broken so be careful that are a PIA to replace.

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