Lawn Boy 22261 Carb Replacement

TexF18

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What metal carb can be switch on a lawnboy 22261. Someone has to have found something that could be modified to work.
 

LB8210

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Replace the throttle shaft and the throttle plate, needle and seat, gaskets on the carb. Also replace the top and bottom crank seals. This will fix the carb. issues. These are all very cheap to do.
 

TexF18

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I know it just needs a rebuild just seems extreme stupid on the manufactures part to put a plastic carb on the mower
 

Rivets

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There are many who will get mad when they read this, but LawnBoy has been using plastic carbs since the 50's and that has held them at the top of the 2-cycle industry. Their carbs are so simple to understand and work on, you are now seeing other engine manufactures switching to a plastic carb. I doubt that something that has lasted that long is stupid on the manufacturers part. I agree as said, rebuild a great carb, only parts you really need to replace 90% of the time are the float needle and seat. Part number 92-9697.
 

lewb

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I agree with rivets on lawnboy carbs. I have a dura force, I have replaced the valve, needle and float. I just replaced the governor spring that made a significant difference in holding operating Rpm. I had a 93 4.75 that I ran until 2012 that I never touched.

One recommendation I would do to your dura force carb is drill idle and main jet with a mini drill bit to increase the size. Made noticeable difference when you load motor.
 

LB8210

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The reason you should replace the throttle shaft and plate is these are the cause of throttle surging. All the other CURES are band-aid fixes that only cover up the real problem a loose throttle plate. Drilling jets only wastes fuel.
 

lewb

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To each his own, I have experience no ill effects of drilling main jet one size bigger, same plug since I installed short block 4 years ago, maybe slightly more fuel, kind of hard to tell because I never really kept track before mod. Also the engine should run cooler with more fuel which leads to cdi failing, has original cdi. I did have a ping when motor was not loaded that drilling the idle jet cured. All's I know is I have a nasty hill to climb and my dura force climbs it with no signs of bogging just a nice hum. Both of my neighbors 4 strokers bog where they have to pretty much stop. The reason for the short block was I bought off a dealers pile that was sitting in the elements for several years. Rusted connecting rod bearing.
 

Rivets

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Don't know about your area of the country, but on these carbs I only have to replace the float needle and seat, plus clean the idle jet on the side of the carb to cure a surging problem. When replacing these parts you may have to reset the float height, but I have NEVER replaced the throttle shaft and plate in all of my years of experience. I have no idea how this would even affect a surging problem.
 

LB8210

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The cheap way the throttle plate is mounted ( no screw ) in the shaft allows the plate to move up and down in the slot. If the plate does not stay centered in the carb. bore it will bind, and when running the motor vibration helps it move around in the slot and as the load changes the gov. spring tries to compensate and then the surging starts. As the motor/carb. ages the slot does not hold the throttle plate tight. I have tried all of the surging cures on a 22261 commercial mower and none worked. I changed the shaft and plate and the surge was gone. Changes to a larger jet size does increase the amount of fuel by a large amount, I did check and with larger jetting it made the mower a gas hog.
 
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