MS270c Chain and Bar question

Hi I've been running a Ms270 for several years now and its time for a new bar and chain(s). I run a 20"bar and the stock Stihl chains that are .325......... I have been told that I could upgrade to the bar that runs the .500 chain & then run those chains on this saw.. Said to be faster cutting or at least they stay sharper longer. My Question is will this work ? without further modifications to the saw.
& is it a good idea. Thanks !

Well by now the drive sprocket will be well into the needs to be replaced zone so that would not hurt.

The chain, bar & sprocket are a set.
I think Stihl recomend a new sprocket every 3rd chain

Some of you numbers don't make since. It sounds like you are running .325 pitch right now, which in stihl is normally a .063 gauge or thickness of the drive links. You may be able to change over to .375 or sometimes called 3/8 pitch, but that will require changing both the bar and the drive sprocket.

The recommendation is to replace the drive sprocket every 2 chains if spur or 3 chains with rim type sprockets.

Ok, That's sorta what I don't understand about this possible conversion.... My current chain--(Stihl) Looking at the box it came in says its a 26 RS 81. So I don't know if I'm explaining it right. Not sure what the 81 means, But it shows a picture of the .325 # & it looks like that number is the difference or measurement between the pins of a full tooth link. The .063 that you mentioned appears to be the thickness of tail of the chain that runs in the bar to hold it on the bar... So I most likely explained it wrong by giving you the wrong figures...... To explain it another way without using numbers, what was said to me is a (bigger/Thicker) chain would be a good upgrade. I'm told the teeth are larger too. & It would require a bar that could accept the thicker chain. I question if the sprocket on the motor would time correctly with this thicker chain ? BTW , yes I did replace the sprocket & the 270 is now a 280 as I put a 280 top end on it in a rebuild & it bolted right up and runs sweet. The 280 top end picket me up about 3.6 cc over the 270 top end.

The 81 is the number of drive links on the chain. If you can go to the bigger chain, which would be the .375 would require changing the sprocket to a .375 as well as the bar to one with a .375 sprocket on the nose. Everything has to match for it to work properly. the bigger .375 are taller and longer cutters, but you will have 72 drive links as opposed to the 81 with the .325

Two measurements define a saw chain.
Pitch distance between the pins that hold the chain together. usually expressed as either a fraction 1/4" 3/8" 1/2" or a decimal .325" ,404"
And the gauge which is the thickness of the drive teeth and subsequently the thickness of the cutters and usually expressed in thousanths of an inch .050" , .063" etc

If you are thinking of running the 1/2" pitch chain ( .500" ) on that saw, forget it.
The next size up is 3/8 low profile which is marginally bigger than the ,325 and your saw will handle that easily.
It might just be able to cope with a 3/8 standard chain, but only if you are cutting soft woods.
It is always best practice to over power rather than over size as once the saw starts to bog down under heavy loads it just stops cutting and jambs.
As you go up in chain size you generally go down in bar size thus reducing the load on the saw.

Bigger theeth men bigger cuts which mean bigger loads on the saw.
If speed is what you are after then you need to look at thinner chain, which cuts less wood so you can saw through a log faster.

Chain with names like Pico, & Microlite cut the fastest. but because the channel they cut is very thin they have specific uses.

So what are you cutting ? , type of wood ? feling or limbing or logging ?

Ok That info Helps . Thank You both. I'm mostly cutting dead Ash and Cherry as far as hardwood. Lots of Pine too as high winds have been taking a toll on my 50 yr old pine woods. Its all for either clearing down trees or cutting for firewood. Not a lot of trees/cutting that the 20" bar can't get through without getting on both sides of the cut.

I guess part of the Equation in figuring out if this is possible, would be to check to see if their is a sprocket/clutch cover that would fit my saw to try to go thicker/bigger tooth on the chain.... Have friends that log with pro huskys & some Big Stihls and they routinely will gear them down a tooth or so and go with bigger biting chain. But I hear you, it is in the end only a 280..

The emergency services do similar thng down here.
If they need a 20" bar, they buy a saw that runs a 22" or 24" bar standard then fit the smaller bar to them.
Down side is a savage saw has savage kick backs.