Won't start

Bobby Boyd

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Well, I turf tiger started right up today then after mowing for about 20 minutes i parked it. I got on it to start it up after about an hour and when I turned the key nothing happened. And yes, brake was, seat was down and I was sitting on it, control levers were out and deck was up. Any ideas. This happened about weeks ago. I have some ideas but would like to get some from you guys.

This is my 5th season with the mower bought brand new.

-bobby
 

Rivets

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My bet is on a loose connection, either at the battery or solenoid. Check positive and negative battery terminals and then the negative battery cable where it attaches to the chassis. Next, the two large terminals on the solenoid. If the solenoid has two small terminals, one comes from the ignition switch and the other goes to ground, both of these connections and where is attaches to ground must be checked. By checking I mean, loosen, remove, clean and reattach securely.
 

Bobby Boyd

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Well, I turf tiger started right up today then after mowing for about 20 minutes i parked it. I got on it to start it up after about an hour and when I turned the key nothing happened. And yes, brake was, seat was down and I was sitting on it, control levers were out and deck was up. Any ideas. This happened about weeks ago. I have some ideas but would like to get some from you guys.

This is my 5th season with the mower bought brand new.

-bobby


Well, switches are ok. I now can hear a click when I turn the key but nothing else.

-bobby
 

Bobby Boyd

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My bet is on a loose connection, either at the battery or solenoid. Check positive and negative battery terminals and then the negative battery cable where it attaches to the chassis. Next, the two large terminals on the solenoid. If the solenoid has two small terminals, one comes from the ignition switch and the other goes to ground, both of these connections and where is attaches to ground must be checked. By checking I mean, loosen, remove, clean and reattach securely.

Thanks for you input but I have ruled out the switches with jumper wire. I now can hear a click when I turn the key but nothing else.

-bobby
 

Rivets

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Going to assume that your battery is good, but shouldn't rule out a bad battery. Wouldn't be the first one that broke down 15 minutes after it seemed good. Take a voltage reading when you turn the switch from run to start. If reading goes below 8 volts charge battery and try again. Same second time you'll probably need to replace battery. If it is good jump accross two large terminals on the solenoid. If engine turns over we can assume starter is good. You don't say whether you have a 3 or 4 post solenoid. If you have a 3 post solenoid the ground is through the solenoid housing. Have you removed the solenoid, clean the surface where it is mounted to the chassis and the chassis itself? This must be mounted very clean and tight. I'm still betting on a loose or bad connection, not a component problem. If none of this helps go through this procedure which LawnRanger and I have put together, to pinpoint electrical starting problems.



I wrote this procedure with tractor style mowers in mind but this works on zero turn mowers as well. For a zero turn mower, the steering levers must be out, parking brake engaged and the PTO switch in the off position. Some mowers have an operator presence switch in the seat and you may need an assistant to sit in the seat while performing the following tests.

Electrical problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things:

1. How well you understand basic electricity.
2. What tools you have and know how to use.
3. How well you follow directions. Ahem.
4. You don't overlook or assume anything and test/verify everything.

Remember, I cannot see what you are doing. You are the eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. The two basic tools I will ask you to use are a test light and a multimeter. If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. Now let's solve this problem.

First, make sure the parking brake is engaged and the PTO switch is in the off position. Physically remove the negative battery cable first and then the positive battery cable and clean both the battery terminals and cable connectors with a wire brush. Reinstall cables after cleaning starting with the positive first and then the negative. Next, turn the key to the run position, check all fuses with a grounded test light should light on both sides of fuse. Check battery voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good. Believe it or not, this first step will take the most amount of time, usually around five minutes and the rest of the steps can be accomplished in under a minute.

Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show battery voltage on a meter at all times.

Third, check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring. You should have battery voltage on this small solenoid wire when the key switch is held in the start position.

Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). You should have battery voltage on this terminal when the key is held in the start position.

Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again). You should have battery voltage during this test.

Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery. Just like the battery, make sure connections are clean and tight. Very Important!

This procedure is a simple starting point and there is more to it so after you have gone through each of the above steps, let me know what happened when you performed each test. At that point I will have great info to tell you how to proceed. Remember you are the eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible. Some lawnmowers use a relay in the starter control circuit so keep that in mind.

Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. I prefer to use voltage drop tests but some people get too confused over this subject so in an effort to keep it simple, for now, just follow the procedure and report back with your findings.
 

bertsmobile1

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Thanks for you input but I have ruled out the switches with jumper wire. I now can hear a click when I turn the key but nothing else.

-bobby

There are several relays that will click so that means absolutely nothing to us.
We are not there so saying you eliminated some part of the wiring with a jumper is no help unless we know where you jumped to and from with what size jumper lead.
As Rivets has chimed in with a systematic plan, I will not confuse you any further by introducing an alternative method of doing the same thing, so do as per instructions.
 

Micah Haarhoff

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Put a screw drive across the solenoid terminals and see if it turns.
 

Mad Mackie

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Bobby,
Get out the operators manual, find the wiring diagram. The relay with green and red/yellow wires is the cranking relay. It is located under the control panel close to the keyswitch. When all the safety circuits are correctly set, the electronic control module will ground the relay and allow it to send power to the engine starter solenoid.
Suggestions:
Charge the battery.
Check the ground terminals that are connected to one of the engine mounting bolts.
Check the battery terminals.
Unplug the electrical connector to the electronic control module for dirt/corrosion. Disconnect the battery positive before cleaning these terminals.
Unplug each electrical connector and inspect for dirt and corrosion.
Cranking relays are problematic and your machine may be due for a new one.
Keyswitches can also be problematic, but not to the extent that the cranking relays can be.
Stop washing the machine if you do, all electrical connectors are open and unprotected and water causes problems in these connectors.
When you get the engine to crank and run, check the battery voltage with the engine at WOT, should be around 14.4 volts.
There is a possibility that the starter motor mounted solenoid could be the problem.
The seat switch is another possibility.
Depending on the engine installed, jumping terminals can be dangerous to the engine electronics.
Have fun!!!!
Mad Mackie in CT:laughing::biggrin::smile:
 

Bobby Boyd

Active Member
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Jan 10, 2012
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Thanks guys for you help in this matter. Still haven't got it started but will continue to trouble shoot.

Let me mention one other problem I have had over the last 3 months. There have been a few times in the past after starting the engine and engaging the pto the blade doesn't start spinning. I disengage the pto and re-engage the blades start to spin. I am wondering if this might be tied into my engine start issue I am having now?

-bobby
 
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