Snapper RER rear wheels not turning

lhutter

Forum Newbie
Joined
Aug 31, 2015
Threads
1
Messages
3
Hey guys!

I'm new to the forum and, for that matter, new to riders. I was given a '95 M250819BE the other day and it's in near new condition, well other than the locked wheels issue... The differential appears to work, as when off the ground the wheels spin opposite each other smoothly. With effort, I can spin both wheels backwards and can actually get movement from the drive wheel. That's with a bit of difficulty, like I'm dragging a brake (the brake on the drive wheel is loose and not engaged). Forward wheel rotation just plain doesn't happen. It would seem that if I get some sort of movement from the drive wheel when moving the wheels either way would point to the chains being OK, but maybe I'm missing something there. I haven't tried it running, but from what I understand it's the same either way. Any thoughts or ideas?

Thanks in advance!
Lorne
 

mechanic mark

Lawn Pro
Joined
Jul 15, 2013
Threads
175
Messages
7,381
http://bsintek.basco.com/BriggsDocumentDisplay/cjiktJvLlSZk.pdf I know this is not your mower, but uses same principle, just read through manual in reference to transmission drive system. You can email Snapper with your model & serial numbers & ask them to email all information for your Snapper including wiring diagram, they'll be glad to send information.

Results Try making adjustments per manual before going further.

Stand mower up carefully per instructions in manual, remove battery, cut fuel off at valve, remove gas tank, etc. Remove black plastic plugs from transmission & gearbox & insert a screwdriver into gearboxes & remove some grease & look for metal particles, if you find metal shavings you will need to remove assemblies & disassemble for inspection of worn out parts.

Heavy duty grease for gearboxes, high temp.
 
Last edited:

lhutter

Forum Newbie
Joined
Aug 31, 2015
Threads
1
Messages
3
Thanks Mark! Everything looks in order as far as adjustments and such. I decided to pull apart the right side gear box and all looked ok, chain is in place and no evidence of broken teeth. It's jam-packed full of heavy grease, but in good shape otherwise. From my reading, it's supposed to be more of a heavy gear oil instead of grease, right? Tonight I'll pull the drive gear box apart and see what it looks like inside. If I move the drive wheel I can get movement out of the wheels, but with a great deal of difficulty. Wondering if the drive chain is actually in tact, but maybe caught between the input sprocket and the case? Any other thoughts before I tear it down further?

Thanks,
Lorne
 

lhutter

Forum Newbie
Joined
Aug 31, 2015
Threads
1
Messages
3
OK, here's where I'm at... I've had both gear cases apart (split the cases in place) and there's no signs of chips, grindings or broken anything. The chains are stretched slightly, but not enough to be a problem. I put the cases back together and tried it again. By hand I can get the wheels to move backward by moving the driven wheel with a level of effort. To move forward I need a socket on a ratchet (of course, that makes backward easier too). With the ratchet it doesn't take a ton of effort, but it is more than I can do just by hand. The resistance is consistent as I turn the wheel, so it's not catching or binding on anything between the teeth or anything like that. Is this amount of resistance normal for these rigs? Like I said, the gear cases are "full" (and I mean they're "someone emptied a couple big grease cartridges in each case" kind of full) of fairly thick grease, that's about the consistency of wheel bearing grease. Not sure if that would be causing excessive drag on the system? Thoughts?

Thanks!
Lorne
 
Top