Alright so I rewired it with the L having the two yellow like you said and every time you turn the key it blows the fuse. I went through and checked every wired and even redid any connections that looked like they might be causing an issue and it still blew the breaker. When I switched the wired to have L be the red wire from the stator and M be the 2 yellow wires it did nothing. I thought maybe the battery was dead to I tried to jump it and nothing. It wont even attempt to start. I started looking more and the the two NC/No boxes are they suppose to be connected to anything? All the wires are connected to them but I almost looks like there is either suppose to be a sensor that plugs into the top of them or some sort of fuse. Almost like the box looking fuses that go in your vehicle.
I would stop testing in the way you doing because you are going to do damage, lets get something clear, only you know what it is in front of you, we here do not, we can only work out from what you are telling us.
You should be using a multimeter and not the battery, until you are sure that all the wiring is correct, that way you will not be blowing fuse's the way you are, use the meter for what it is for, it will tell you by connecting it up to one end of a wire, say on the key switch, and finding out the other end, if someone been there and made a right pigs ear out of things then start again and make your own wiring diagram, you should know by now that the (B) on the key switch is for the battery + and that (g) is the ground, so you have now only five out of the seven you say you have on the key switch, remember if you are doing continuity checks with a meter, make sure you have one of the battery leads off.
The NC boxes there are three shown on the diagram, clutch/brake, PTO and seat switch and they all kill the coil, or should do..!
