What fertilizer?
- Thread starter steved
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Right now, it seems OK. The yard has little in the way of topsoil...typical land developer move is to strip and sell the topsoil in a new development, then plant grass on the remaining "soil". When the property was sold 15 years ago, it was a farm field.
The back yard was literally a hay field when we moved in last summer...there are a lot of bare spots (greater than 20 feet in diameter) now, where the resident weed population died back over winter. We reseeded last week, and have had a few rainstorms; so the seed should be in good shape.
I'm probably going to wait until the end of May and just use a generic fertilizer...probably not even necessary, but figured I'd give it a whirl since its a new-to-us home.
The back yard was literally a hay field when we moved in last summer...there are a lot of bare spots (greater than 20 feet in diameter) now, where the resident weed population died back over winter. We reseeded last week, and have had a few rainstorms; so the seed should be in good shape.
I'm probably going to wait until the end of May and just use a generic fertilizer...probably not even necessary, but figured I'd give it a whirl since its a new-to-us home.
I should also add, the reason the cost means so much is the fact I have nearly 3 acres I'd like to fertilize.
On edit:
If I just calculated it correctly, its actually $100 cheaper to use the actual lawn fertilizer as you use less of it, by about 2/3s. So I guess I'll watch the local adds for a sale...I need about eight 50# bags to do the entire yard.
On edit:
If I just calculated it correctly, its actually $100 cheaper to use the actual lawn fertilizer as you use less of it, by about 2/3s. So I guess I'll watch the local adds for a sale...I need about eight 50# bags to do the entire yard.
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Assuming you don't know what the numbers mean on fertilizer, they are Nitrogen-Phosphorus-Potassium. The Nitrogen is what gives grass that really green color. I typically like a higher number, say in the 20's, just for that perfect green. The P helps develope a healthy root system, so a mid number would be good. And the K is like a multi-vitamin for grass. It helps build up disease resistance and helps the plant to develope cholorphyll. A low to mid number is acceptable.
In your situation, I would suggest 21-3-3. That will filll the soil with N which will help that new grass you seeded really take off, and revitalize the existing grass. Hope that helps! I'll put a link you can go to that will give you loads more info about fertilizing.
Success with Lawn Fertilizers: the Right Type at the Right Time.
In your situation, I would suggest 21-3-3. That will filll the soil with N which will help that new grass you seeded really take off, and revitalize the existing grass. Hope that helps! I'll put a link you can go to that will give you loads more info about fertilizing.
Success with Lawn Fertilizers: the Right Type at the Right Time.
I would second the recommendation to get a soil analysis from your local county agents office. Find out what is needed to replenish the soil. You may need to adjust the ph which is important to allow the fertilizers to work well.
To get good results with germination of seeds you need to water frequently with light doses to keep the seeds damp. After it is up and growing your local rains should be sufficient.
To get good results with germination of seeds you need to water frequently with light doses to keep the seeds damp. After it is up and growing your local rains should be sufficient.
Does anyone know if there is a good organic fertilizer out there? My wife refuses to let me fertilize the grass since we've had two dogs come down with cancer, which the vet claims could have been caused by a commercial chemical product. Even though I kept them off it for about a week, I can't convince her that the cancer may have been caused by a genetic issue. Either way, I won't use a chemical product again. Its not worth the grief...:frown:
rer has a great one... "I use organic chickens poo"
Good for your wife, the best approach when your not certain is to remove known contributors, when possible... (remember you are reducing your exposure as well)...
organic is not nearly as handy BUT could end up being the MOST handy in the long run...:smile:KennyV
dannycrensh
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I agree with Kenny about organic products being best in the long run. I used to use the dehydrated chicken crap, unitl I discovered that the dogs were eating it. How gross is that? I have found a great liquid product that is has kelp and some other goodies in it that the dogs seem to find less attractive. I am looking into building a small sprayer that I can tow behind my Wheel Horse. Has anyone ever done this? Or do you know anything about teejet spray nozzles I am hoping to build a small version of what I see farmers using. Thanks