HRX217HYA May need new rings?

New to forum. I bought a HRX217HYA about 8 years ago. Brought it in last year for tune up. My dealer put a new carb on. Brought it home and could not start it - it had been running rough before but it would start.

So I bring it back and dealer calls to tell me compression is low and it likely needs rings. No smoke by the way. I got upset asking why when I bring in a rough running mower, have carb replaced, pay for full tune up - I get non-working mower back and on top of it need major engine work. Only used mower for 4 years as I had service other years.

Warantee is out. Asked them to check with Honda as I can't believe 4 years of use results in worn rings. I always check oil level.

Anyway Honda would not do anything. Dealer got it running OK. But certainly not like it should.

So I have a $700 mower that runs like the one Little Johnny sold the local preacher.

What do you guys suggest?

That's seems dumb that the dealer didn't do a compression check before replacing the carb. You said the oil was always changed on a regular basis... Unless you ran the oil low, some of the other things that can cause an early engine death would be leaky air filter allowing dirt to get into carb or overheating the engine...

Find another Honda dealer. If the compression problem, even if it has one, were because of bad rings, the oil consumption and use would be evident.

Just for backround, was it running good when you put it up last fall, but this spring ran like crap? Or what? You hit a stump? Any/all backround info is
what we need if we are to help in any way.

I took it out last spring 2013 and it was running rough. I hadn't run gas dry so figured it was the carb. Never hit any stumps etc. I'll take a look and make sure no obvious shaft bend when looking from bottom of crank.

Now what I did notice is I hit something on the carb side of engine last year after I went through the dealer incident. It damaged the cover plate so only one clip holds the air cleaner cover on. It has fallen off a few times when I catch it on bush etc. But the bad running was happening before that damage. I just ordered replacement parts to remedy this issue.

I was just reading about the finger check for compression. Will give that a try. It runs but idle goes up an down unless blade is engaged. Maybe I can take video and post.

BTW in perusing some other threads I noticed someone said don't use Quaker State oil in lawn mowers - too thin. The oil I used prior to this all happening was some Quaker State synthetic 10-30w. I think it was a cheaper QS oil from Walmart. I hope that wan't responsible.

Fish said:

Find another Honda dealer. If the compression problem, even if it has one, were because of bad rings, the oil consumption and use would be evident.

Just for backround, was it running good when you put it up last fall, but this spring ran like crap? Or what? You hit a stump? Any/all backround info is
what we need if we are to help in any way.

Click to expand...

It was running bad before dealer changed out carb. Better after second trip. Same all last year and this year. I used Seafoam in gas over winter.

shacky said:

BTW in perusing some other threads I noticed someone said don't use Quaker State oil in lawn mowers - too thin. The oil I used prior to this all happening was some Quaker State synthetic 10-30w. I think it was a cheaper QS oil from Walmart. I hope that wan't responsible.

Click to expand...

No way no how that Quaker state oil killed your engine. Even Supertech (Walmart's in house oil brand) wouldn't kill a Honda GCV engine. I bet you read that on bitog lol. Those guys are oil zealots. Unless you ran straight non detergent 30w oil in the middle of winter would incorrect oil choice damaged your engine so quickly. I've run plenty of honda GC motors in the past and they're not that picky with oil as long as you pick a detergent oil within the right viscosity range Dino or synth that meets SJ

One other thing. What do you mean by 'running bad'? Did the engine seem it was down on power? Was your motor surging constantly after the carb service? The shop could've possibly not mounted the new carb well and introduced an airleak which would've potentially caused a lean condition which can quickly wear out an engine from overheating.

In either case I agree with the posters above and try a 2nd opinion with another certified Honda shop. Also, with the cost of labor these days, it might be more cost effective to either to source a new engine or just junk the mower and get a new one and this time shun the devil's gasoline, or any gasoline that has ethanol in it.

Ruh-roh. I think this is the synthetic I had used. Seems very thin.

That oil is perfectly fine. It's API/ILSAC certified oil with the perfect viscosity. I've seen dollar store oil that doesn't meet those specs. If you're engine is truly worn, your choice of oil was NOT the cause.

Thanks! I would have hated to think it was my fault.

By running bad I mean RPM unsteady. If I try to idle low it will die. And of course that doesn't make it sound very good.

Has plenty of power full throttle with blade engaged. Doesn't seem to falter at all. I'll take video tomorrow and post.