Jumped on my 729 today, and when I tried to start it, the starter tried, then stopped. (still whined after trying to start) Its like I had to hit the sweet spot to start it. When trying to trouble shoot, should I go straight to the starter, the battery is in good shape, left it on a maintainer all winter. I have mowed this year several times with no problem. I think my 729 is a 2007 maybe..Want to take care of this before I get stranded.....also if I do get stranded, is there a lever to get my mower out of gear, to roll it free on a trailer...sorry for dumb questions, just wanting to learn...
Starting to have starter problem
- Thread starter 3chap
- Start date
Just called Kubota, he said a starter might be close to $400.00 bucks, dont know if he knew what he was talking about...Going to look on line some more and wait for responses here....thanks for any responses
Kubota Engine; model #WG972, Family #8KBXB 9622HA, 1H952-1; Serial #8J5637
Grasshopper; model #729T6, Serial #5911783
These are the numbers off of my mower and engine..............
Last edited:
MBDiagMan
Well-Known Member
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- Aug 28, 2013
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Be careful not to get the cart in front of the horse here. From your description it sounds as if you have not determined for sure that the problem is your starter. You need to properly diagnose before laying out hard earned cash.
If you don't already have one, buy, borrow or otherwise get your hands on a digital voltmeter. They can be had for about $20 these days. Start by putting the leads across the battery and reading the voltage. It should be 12 volts or very close. You may need a helper for the rest of the tests, but they are simple. You need to do a Voltage Drop test on all components of the starter and starter circuit including the starter, connectors, solenoid and all. It might sound complicated, but it is very simple.
With the motor on, making sure you're not near any parts that will rotate, put one lead on the negative battery post and the other on the terminal. It should read like .1Volts or less. With the leads still in place and watching the meter, have someone turn the key to start and read the voltage. If you are reading more than .1V, then you have a bad connection. The .1 Volt is your voltage drop across that connection. A simple connection should actually read zero, but a small drop is workable. If there is more voltage drop than that, remove, clean, reconnect and tighten the terminal. Now put your leads one on the battery terminal, not the post and the other lead to the engine and turn the key to start. Again, you should not drop over .1 Volt and 0 would be better. If it is more, check the cable and the connection to ground.
Now start at the positive terminal to post and do the same thing. Check again between the positive terminal and the solenoid. Then put your leads at the input and output of the solenoid and turn on the key. These are contacts, so you might get .2 Volt drop or maybe a little more, but any more than that indicates a less than perfect solenoid. Now check from the output of the solenoid to the starter terminal, the same cable. Again no significant voltage drop is what you want. If you have a drop, fix the cable or connection. Now you're at the load, which is the starter. Put your leads one on ground and one on the heavy cable input at the starter. Since this is the load, this is where you SHOULD see a large drop. You should see a minimum of 9 volts across the starter. Before checking the starter, put your leads across the battery and have some one turn it to start. You should see 12 volts or very close while the starter is trying to turn. If you don't, then the battery is weak. Now If you are dropping 9 volts or more across the starter, and it won't go, THEN I'll stop being obstinate and let you buy or rebuild the starter.
If you're not comfortable with doing all this, see if there is an auto electric shop in your area where they do starter and alternator work. They will run through this diagnosis for a small fee. They might even do it for free if it results in a starter rebuild job or selling you a battery.
I grew up in my Dad's auto repair shop. My uncle had an auto electric shop in the same building. SO, I've seen this scenario virtually all my life. I've seen people go buy a starter and that's not it, go buy a battery and that's not it, go buy a generator or alternator and that's not it. They buy all those non returnable parts and spend a fortune, when a very few bucks spent on a diagnosis, would have saved about two thirds of their outlay.
As you can see, I'm the guy that when you ask what time it is, I tell you how to build a watch, but I hope this helps.
If you don't already have one, buy, borrow or otherwise get your hands on a digital voltmeter. They can be had for about $20 these days. Start by putting the leads across the battery and reading the voltage. It should be 12 volts or very close. You may need a helper for the rest of the tests, but they are simple. You need to do a Voltage Drop test on all components of the starter and starter circuit including the starter, connectors, solenoid and all. It might sound complicated, but it is very simple.
With the motor on, making sure you're not near any parts that will rotate, put one lead on the negative battery post and the other on the terminal. It should read like .1Volts or less. With the leads still in place and watching the meter, have someone turn the key to start and read the voltage. If you are reading more than .1V, then you have a bad connection. The .1 Volt is your voltage drop across that connection. A simple connection should actually read zero, but a small drop is workable. If there is more voltage drop than that, remove, clean, reconnect and tighten the terminal. Now put your leads one on the battery terminal, not the post and the other lead to the engine and turn the key to start. Again, you should not drop over .1 Volt and 0 would be better. If it is more, check the cable and the connection to ground.
Now start at the positive terminal to post and do the same thing. Check again between the positive terminal and the solenoid. Then put your leads at the input and output of the solenoid and turn on the key. These are contacts, so you might get .2 Volt drop or maybe a little more, but any more than that indicates a less than perfect solenoid. Now check from the output of the solenoid to the starter terminal, the same cable. Again no significant voltage drop is what you want. If you have a drop, fix the cable or connection. Now you're at the load, which is the starter. Put your leads one on ground and one on the heavy cable input at the starter. Since this is the load, this is where you SHOULD see a large drop. You should see a minimum of 9 volts across the starter. Before checking the starter, put your leads across the battery and have some one turn it to start. You should see 12 volts or very close while the starter is trying to turn. If you don't, then the battery is weak. Now If you are dropping 9 volts or more across the starter, and it won't go, THEN I'll stop being obstinate and let you buy or rebuild the starter.
If you're not comfortable with doing all this, see if there is an auto electric shop in your area where they do starter and alternator work. They will run through this diagnosis for a small fee. They might even do it for free if it results in a starter rebuild job or selling you a battery.
I grew up in my Dad's auto repair shop. My uncle had an auto electric shop in the same building. SO, I've seen this scenario virtually all my life. I've seen people go buy a starter and that's not it, go buy a battery and that's not it, go buy a generator or alternator and that's not it. They buy all those non returnable parts and spend a fortune, when a very few bucks spent on a diagnosis, would have saved about two thirds of their outlay.
As you can see, I'm the guy that when you ask what time it is, I tell you how to build a watch, but I hope this helps.