Removing shaft collar/blade adaptor (Model 7227)

amuller

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I know this is not a new subject but:

I just tried removing one by tapping on the corner with a hammer. The plate came off but left the collar on the crankshaft. Appears to me that the plate was not welded onto the collar but just upset in three places. So there is no way the collar would come off from pulling or prying on the plate. Am I missing something here? Are these two pieces supposed to be welded together, or....?

Any advice appreciated.
 

impalass

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I know this is not a new subject but:

I just tried removing one by tapping on the corner with a hammer. The plate came off but left the collar on the crankshaft. Appears to me that the plate was not welded onto the collar but just upset in three places. So there is no way the collar would come off from pulling or prying on the plate. Am I missing something here? Are these two pieces supposed to be welded together, or....?

Any advice appreciated.
The two pieces are tack welded together. To remove the collar you will need a puller and maybe some heat will have to be applied to the collar.
 

JohnBoy1

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When this happens to me I heat it up as suggested then spray it with pb blaster and letting it sit for a bit. Get a small pulley puller and hook the ends on the rear section of the collar and start tightening it up. Tap on the collar with a hammer while tightening the puller to help break it free. They always come off for me that way.
 

Two-Stroke

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The two pieces are tack welded together. To remove the collar you will need a puller and maybe some heat will have to be applied to the collar.

In this thread we're talking about the case where the plate has separated from the collar. Not what you want. :mad:

My question: what's the best puller to use if the plate and the collar are intact?

The 7227 is D-series... is the best puller different for the F-series?
 

impalass

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In this thread we're talking about the case where the plate has separated from the collar. Not what you want. :mad:

My question: what's the best puller to use if the plate and the collar are intact?

The 7227 is D-series... is the best puller different for the F-series?
Same puller for both engines as the adapter is the same on both engines.
 

JohnBoy1

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The puller only cost about $8, I use it on all my boys, the jaws are adjustable to fit most sizes and there at Oriely auto parts and napa.
 

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Two-Stroke

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Same puller for both engines as the adapter is the same on both engines.

What does the puller look like?

Specifically, how does it attach to the adapter?

My concern is that too much pressure may be applied to the plate so it either separates from the collar or bends. So ideally the puller would attach to the collar but I've never seen a puller like that. I'm thinking there may be a special LB puller made for this.
 

impalass

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What does the puller look like?

Specifically, how does it attach to the adapter?

My concern is that too much pressure may be applied to the plate so it either separates from the collar or bends. So ideally the puller would attach to the collar but I've never seen a puller like that. I'm thinking there may be a special LB puller made for this.
If you are very careful you will not bend the plate. My first try is using a pry bar that hooks onto the collar and if that does not work then i use a puller. Most of the time you don't need very much pressure on the collar and when you have a stubborn one heat works wonders.
 

Phototone

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Sometimes they do become damaged from trying to remove them. Luckily they are readily available, and lawn-boy used the same collar on almost all 2-cycle models.
 

jtk

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I always used an air hammer. I ran a bolt about 3/4 of the way in and then applied the air hammer to the bolt. Even the most rusted shafts would usually just come right off due to the vibration. By running the bolt that far in it never affected the threads.
 
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