Electrical Problem

TarlsQtr

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Hello all.

I was just given a Craftsman Model 917.271812 riding mower with the 19.5HP Twin Briggs engine.

It runs and cuts great once you get it started. However, there is an electrical problem with it.

To start, you have to jump from the positive battery terminal direct to the starter. The previous owner tried replacing the ignition and the starter which did not help. I suspect (hope) this will be a cheap fix and then I will have a great mower, as she looks near new.

Thanks in advance!
 

EngineMan

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LawnRanger came up with this diagnostic sequence which I (Rivets) found very good. I modified it a little. Hope this helps you.



Electrical* problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.
1. * How well you understand basic electricity.
2. *What tools you have and know how to use.
3. *How well you follow directions.
4. *You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.

Remember we cannot see what you are doing. *You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. *You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. *The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. *If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. *These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. *Now let's solve this problem.

First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and *voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good.*

Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. *One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.*

Third, *check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. *If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. *If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. *If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.*

Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch).*

Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again).*

Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.

After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. *At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. *Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.

Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. *If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. *Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words.
 
Last edited:

TarlsQtr

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LawnRanger came up with this diagnostic sequence which I found very good. I modified it a little. Hope this helps you.



Electrical* problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.
1. * How well you understand basic electricity.
2. *What tools you have and know how to use.
3. *How well you follow directions.
4. *You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.

Remember we cannot see what you are doing. *You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. *You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. *The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. *If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. *These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. *Now let's solve this problem.

First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and *voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good.*

First, thanks for taking the time to help! I checked the fuse which is fine. Let me know if any of the readings seem screwy. I have an antique tester. I checked the battery connections for corrosion and tightness. All looked good. I checked the battery voltage and was coming in under 12 volts, at about 10.8.

Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. *One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.*

I checked the battery into the solenoid and it came in at 10.8 volts

Third, *check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch.

It is a four terminal. I had my wife sit on the mower while I checked. It was a 194 millivolts.


Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch).*

NEGATIVE 12.2 volts

Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again).*

0 volts

Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.

OK
 

Rivets

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Two problems jump out very quickly. Battery voltage too low, need 12.6. Recharge battery and retest, if it does not come up and hold replace battery. If you have that low of voltage at the solenoid (#3) you will have to check the key switch or the safety switches. You need 12V at this terminal.
 

Rivets

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Also, please read this thread. I know that it is long and confusing at times, but we tried to help him with the same type of problem. We don't want you to make the same mistakes as he was, and we still don't know what the real problem was. EngineMan, LawnRanger and I am here to help. Been there and done that before.

Need Help with troubleshooting ignition switch on Murray 12.5 HP
 

okfine

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I had very similar problem. I used a voltmeter and also a test light at the various terminals. I noticed a dim light at the battery to solenoid wire. The volt meter indicated 12+ volts. I changed the wires and it turns over fine. Just a thought.
 

TarlsQtr

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Hello all. Thanks for the continued help. I have made some progress (I think) in eliminating some possibilities.

I charged the battery and consistently get 12.4-12.5 from it. I also replaced the solenoid and get the same in when the ignition is turned on. However, I am not getting any voltage out from the solenoid out to the starter.

This should eliminate safety switches and ignition correct? If I understand correctly, there will be no voltage in to the solenoid if the saftety switches or ignition is inoperable.

In order to get access, I removed the battery and even tried jumping from my charger to the starter directly. It cranks a couple of times in a very labored fashion and then stops. I then unhook the ground for a few seconds, reattach, and same thing. I am not sure if this information helps or not.
 

Rivets

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TarlsQtr, EngineMan posted a sequence to follow. What in step 3. If you have no voltage there, that means we have a problem with either the key switch or safety switches. Remember that when working with electrical problems never assume anything. It must be verified.
 
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