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If you did nothing to the internals, then the timing should still be spot on. Did you happen to check and see if the two dots lined up while you were in there? Didn't accidentally move the cam? Are the plugs wet after you turn the engine over a few times?

How I do pics: If they're on your phone, transfer them to your computer. Then right click on the pic and select "Open with paint.' When the pic opens in the paint program, select "resize" from the menu at the upper left. I usually pick a size that's about 4X4 or so. on the computer screen. Then...

UPDATE: This engine has no oil filter. There's some sort of screen that I supposed you just clean when you remove the drain plug.

I'm soooo thankful you posted this. And even as thankful I waited to get a response on this thread That first pic, I thought that was the oil filter. I was checking out the lines coming out if it and traced it to the radiator. Most cars, with auto trans, have lines going from their tranny's to...

The vin numbers that are supposed to be stamped on the frame (behind the left front wheel, are not legible. So I took a part number from the fuel tank cover and researched it. 1SC-F171A shows to fit the 300 grizzly. The customer doesn't have any paperwork on the ATV, so I'm just trying to match...

I always pour a tiny bit of mix into the cylinder before i do a compression test. IIRC, it was something I learned on this forum, and it just stuck in my head. And check compression at least 3 times.

It had warmed up, because idled for a couple of minutes prior to finding the H adjustment that allowed WOT. Unless a couple of minutes isn't long enough. It took a little bit to find that spot. Many moments it would sit and idle while I was thinking. Steve has a couple of good video's about...

Can carbon breaking loose cause something like that. Note, there was no gouge in the ring. Only on the top edge of the piston and right below the ring.

So you don't think it was anything I did? Like that minute of WOT? I should've checked through the exhaust port before I started on this. But I could tell that the saw was rarely used. This is one of my return customers. He only uses Stihl. But bought this PP when two of his stihls went down on...

Air filter and fuel lines were good. I checked those things when I checked the compression and spark. New fuel also. I guess I should've mentioned that first. After rechecking the spark, found it to still be good. Tried some carb cleaner through the venturi, and still won't crank. Probably...

Poulan Pro PP5020AV chainsaw. Compression at about 150. Good spark. Prime it, choke it, and it cranks and idles fine but bogs when revved up. Over and over, (having to crank it a dozen times or more) I finally starts revving without bogging. I'm opening it up trying to find that strokin...

The keeper that you have to remove to get the hub off, is at least 1/8th of an inch away from the hub. Seems like that's a lot when you look at it.

I'm trying to get this hub off so I can replace a leaking axle seal. I have the wheel off and the clip. But this thing won't budge. I put some penetrating oil on it and let it set for about an hour. Then hit the center hole on the axle with the air hammer. And it won't budge. It was leaking...

What is the model number of the engine?

Funny you should mention that. I just got back from the dollar store with a 3 pack of +1.75's because I just can't find my readers. But now that I have 3 pair, I'll find the ones I lost before the days out.

Most of those carb manufacturers from China have little to no quality control. So the jet sizes and passageways through the carb may not be correct. This is something I learned on this forum a few years ago. THE only time I'll use one of these is if the unit doesn't have much life left it it...

I turned that screw a full turn and nothing changed. Then my parts came in for a commercial customer and had to leave it for the day. Thanks for the info on this.

Don't sell yourself short, my friend. You're a guru at this. It sounds like you came by it the hard way. I can't imagine all those frankenmowers you started out on. There's a couple of good facebook pages that are solely small engine techs. They don't really allow questions like "My mower only...

When it comes to electrical, I explain right off the bat, that if I check the right bad part or wire first, then the cost will be a lot less expensive, than if it's the last out of several things I check first. No one knows exactly where to start, unless it happens to be obvious. In a perfect...

I've turned down a few jobs that I knew right off the bat were going to be extremely time consuming. One that sticks out was this passed summer. I even made a thread about it, and some of you guru's advised to just turn down the job or price it accordingly. And that's why I did. Customer wanted...

Got the new AVR installed. And it drastically reduced the voltage. But brought it down too much. At 3,600 and 3700, the voltage is the same. 105 to 106. Under a load (heat gun on high) and it increases the one circuit to 112. But drops the other to about 97v. I'm testing the L1/2 & R1/2 in the...

I completely understand. And when I get even close to your skill and experience level, I'll do just the same. But things like not knowing how a throttle cable is routed, I just consider my lack of experience. I had morons at the dealership fix my dodge once. I'm guessing the head gasket was...

I'm grateful for those that have that kind of patience. It's a win win for us both.

Say, that's a good idea. There's a couple of models with that lock. Thanks man.

I never charge a customer extra for things I don't know. If I had done one of these before, chances are I'd know how the throttle cable was routed. I can't charge for the two guesses I made before getting it right.

Seems this is discontinued. And no aftermarkets that I can find. I'll be OK with a used one.

Sometimes dads will pay extra for stuff like this, just to remind the son how much it cost to fix his screw up. BTW, if anyone has a 530036098 (trigger lock), I can use one. This one was missing that. It's obsolete and can't find one on ebay or amazon.

I'm about to take a sledge hammer to this and this darn screwed up routing for a throttle cable. I finally figured it out. Gonna charge the customer an extra 1/5 hr for bringing it in already disassembled. He's probably thinking I'm gonna give him a 1/2hr discount. That is all. Tourette...

Ordered a new carb for it (amazon ugh), with new plug it fires and runs pretty good. Just have a couple of questions. This model doesn't come with an air filter. Just a baffle turned open side down. Would it be OK to turn the open side up and put a piece of pre filter type foam down in it? Cut...

Checked the 220v legs and got the same 180V.

I've checked both 120v recepticacles. They're both 183. Are you saying it's possible that the factory hooked up two 120 wires?

Did you get one?

Parts store says this BR4LM crossed over. Put it in, primed it and after about 15 pulls she hit and ran long enough to run the fuel I just primed. Primed the hell out of it, til it was leaking out the intake. Looks like there's some water in it. Customer says to proceed with the carb. work...

Well, that's good news. Thanks man.

Jacks gives a different number. I suppose they both cross. UPDATE: Upon further inspection, it doesn't seem that either mine nor yours are the same. Check out the Partstree diagram. listed on the diagram page, #135 as a Champion RJ17LM. When you click on #135 in the parts list, it changes to...

I put a little (50:1) into the plug hole and retested. I got right on the 100 to 101 mark. Definitely a game changer. So I'm going with what you said, worn or stuck ring. IIRC, once an engine heats up, it'll lose some compression. Bringing ti down to less than 100.

No. It does have spark. But it doesn't have the right spark plug either. I'm about to run get the right one and recheck that. I tried it last night, with the plug that came in with it. And didn't get anything. But from what the customer told me, that's the same plug he's been using. An AC...

Lower the RPM's and the generator is going to produce less wattage. In my case, even at 1600 rpm's, the generator is creating 130V. Watts, from what I understand, is sort of the power. The muscle, if you will. Amps is how much power Where as voltage is how fast the power is being fed. The...

Earthquake digger, M# 9000 with a Tecumseh AV520. If a two cycle comes in the shop with 100lbs or less, I don't normally mess with them. But this one is bigger. Looks almost like a 4cycle. It takes 24:1 mix. I'm only getting about 87lbs of compression. From what little I can see down in the...

I see what you mean. It's a 4000w generator. that only means it'll surge at 4000. Not actually run 4000w constantly.

I have a hertz meter, but didn't plug it in to this gen yet. With the voltage at 180v ac, what's the point? At least not until I have the AVR replaced.

Yes, 3600 is about what I found too. Thanks for the reply.

Yes, I've looked through that "parts list and diagram." It's about as worthless as the generator, I'm thinking. Was looking up the breather vent that mounts into the top of the gas tank. It's labeled something like #32. Scroll to 32 on the parts list, and it's listed as a manual choke. LMAO...

Has a Chonda engine on it. Was getting about 183V out of the 120v plug. So I removed the adjustment screw completely, and am still getting 130V at about 1650RPM's. I've seen bad AVR's that won't produce any volts. Or IIRC, not enough. But never seen one put out too much. Is this even...

Some how or another, I happened to have a 95 1/2" belt (265938 or AYP532144959) that snugged everything up. Even after disengaging the PTO, the belt stops. And actually stick out in front of the drive pulley just a hair. And lucky enough, on the same deck I got the belt from was two brand new...

Scratch that last transmission, ghost rider. Both new belts are exactly the same.

Yes. I've gotten one wrong belt from Stens before. But it's never been one of these. I did notice when I compared the old belt with the new, that the old belt was a tiny bit shorter. But the V part was thinner. I figured the width of the new belt would take up the slack. Guess not. I've using...

The 5th number in the serial number is a 4. I'm using that particular year for the diagram I looked up. Partstree has it listed as a 2014 96.5" X1/2"

Actually it was a Stens, 265-201.