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13WQ93KP011 Super bronco Running at full throttle, battery is charging over 13v. Getting about 14v in and out of the PTO with the switch pulled/on. (almost nothing when switch is off) But it's not engaging. The ohms are 0.00 on the tractor. So I'm thinking it's just a bad PTO. Is there...

Update, I found a key for a used key switch I had, and replaced the old one. And so far, so good on the fuse. Oops, I just remembered, I still have that 25A fuse in it. Man this mower has a bunch of issues. The PTO isn't clicking when I pull the button. Got down there to check to see if it...

I was looking at those on Amazon the other day. I think I'm going to start investing in some of the more popular sizes. But the lightbulb idea is pretty good too.

yes, the battery cables are on right. I checked that when I was fishing around for the fuse. (in the back, under the battery) I'm waiting on a new switch. This was is bad.

Troybilt Super Bronco 13WQ93KP011 Kohler KT735-3012 Replaced fuse, and blew immediately. Removed the + battery cable and replaced it again. Blew as soon as I reconnected the battery Removed the voltage regulator connect, replaced the fuse (ran out of 20's, used a 25) Plugged the regulator back...

Sorry to bring this back from the dead. But how can a 20A fuse blow, just by plugging it in (key off). I can see a bad regulator being bad, (not regulating the amps). But the stator? I don't get that.

Meloxicam, or something like that works pretty good. When I could get hydrocodone, I wouldn't take it unless the pain was severe. I had one bottle for a couple of years. Try and tell a doctor that you only need one small prescription of that per year and they think you're lying.

I finished that darn pond yesterday. OMG. I finally got to some more level ground and was able to use her big swisher weed eater. It was just back and forth, instead of up and down. My internals are going to enjoy several days without pain meds.

Back pain will make you think crazy stuff sometimes.

Ok, thanks for all the info. My bright idea just got real dim. But you guys probably saved me from destroying the unit. Thanks. I'll just have to figure out how to do this pond with her trimmer on wheels, and not take out my back.

I noticed that the shorter the line got, the higher the RPM's would get. Yes @bertsmobile1 , it's a bent shaft. I noticed today that there was some grease coming out just above the head. Can I adjust the carb up to about 9000 rpm with the thicker string? I was using a .105. Now using a .130

My landlord wants me to weed eat around her pond. Especially that thick stuff that grows just inside the water. She's got a Briggs trimmer on wheels, that works pretty good. But it just kills my back after about 10 minutes, on the high sloped side. So I broke out my GT225, but the string...

There was other things wrong with this one. The coating on the needle was pealing off. Customer was opposed to me rebuilding this, vs just getting a new one. I'll see if I got a briggs bowl for this though. If so, then I'll just rebuild it and have two (to sit on the shelf for a year or more)...

That's what I told her, initially. When I first cleaned this original carb, I told her the float bowl was rusty and it'll need to be replaced petty soon. So after a couple of months, it's running rough. I checked the float bowl and it's rusting faster than I expected. So I told her I wouldn't...

It's ordered. Customer wanted to go the cheap route. So I ordered the amazon one, and the Walbro one. If the amazon one works, I just ate $120. And it'll sit on the shelf for a year. But chances are, the Amazon one will be junk, like most of them are.

I always just use .05 on both intake and exhaust.

You just had to do it, didn't cha? :p:)

About $120 with tax. That's not as bad as I thought it was going to be. I was just guessing a few days ago when I started looking this up, found one that was over $340. WOW!!!!!! The customer said the same thing. We just stood there saying wow, back and forth to each other. Then came the...

There are: 26A Mexico 339 40829

Thanks man. Who ever come up with the idea of putting stickers on engine covers should be shot.

Looks like the Kawasaki # is 15004-0985

There is probably more underlying reasons why he doesn't like his neighbors. Two difference races, have two different cultures and different ways of talking to one another, that neither sides really understand. And here you come and almost have to get in the middle of something that you wasn't...

I'm not sure how this happened. But I put in the same numbers and didn't get any specific engines at all. It went to Gravely ZTR, not to Kawasaki. Thank you.

M# 991082 S# 030659

Yeah, that doesn't really give me the actual engine number from this particular mower. Just a list of engines that was used on these mowers. (and a few others). Putting the M# and Serial #, gave me two different manuals. Neither of which had my specific engine. Nor did it give me a part listing...

I can't find a place to add the serial number. Am I blind? Or is it hid?

Must be older than that. The only sticker is Kawasaki label on top. And only gives the FR691V.

23hp on a Gravely ztr. I'm trying to find the right carb for this, but I'm not finding any numbers anywhere. I can see where the sticker used to be. Does Kawasaki stamp anything on the engines?

Are you sure? https://www.yamahamotorsports.com/multi-purpose-engine

According to their website: 26.5 HP Gravely Engine and two-stage canister filtration for longer engine life. It’s backed by a 4-year, 750 hour warranty.

Solution, just ask the neighbor to adjust his height if he's going to mow on your side.

Briggs engine? Kohler? What is the model number of the engine? Blue-ish smoke is oil burning. Oil in the cylinder when the gas ignites. Could be rings, head gasket or valves, I'd start with a compression test then a leak-down test.

My ex neighbor used to mow like 20ft onto my side. I'd take him a beer when he was done. And thank him.

The last one I did, I replaced the reservoir. But kept the old one around just to tinker with. I took a pretty good size bolt with a washer that just barely fit into the hole where the grommet went. Then heated up with a heat gun (slowly and gently) and just sort of pulled it straight on a...

Kawasaki FR691V Does putting a bowl gasket (rubber) in boiling water help expand it long enough to get it back on and tightened?

Why would it die just from releasing the trigger? Coincidence that the module skipped at the same time you released the throttle? I think I understand. It would have something to do with RPM's changing, and the chip inside the module, maybe?

It's a pain in the butt when an ignition module starts going out, if it doesn't just stop working completely.

I suppose "smooth" is an opinion.

Delete

Yeah, I didn't have my glasses on. It's KT745.

I think I got that done. And decided to just use the rider part for moving stuff from the front to back. Maybe check my mail. I'll definitely need it come spring. I asked my back and my knee about this, and they approved. LOL. The crank looks good. It fit snug into the block. Had to tap it a...

You're going to miss us when you're gone.

Oh crap. So there's aluminum built up around the crank. I see it now. It's the dull finish, where as the steel is still shiny. Wouldn't muriatic acid remove that?

Funny you should mention Predator. HF doesn't have a listing for a vertical shaft twin. I've search their sight like 3 times and all I get is a "Page not found" or a page full of horizontal engines.

Thank Bert. The accent sound better in person. Trying to read it, I think I get it. Much work, with 1 & 5 chance for a successful outcome. Not very good odds. Especially with all the work that needs to go into it putting everything back together, and hooking it all back up. If I do anything...

@StarTech @Rivets @bertsmobile1 What's the chances of honing this with some fine sand paper, and making it work? Now that the crank is out, I oiled it and slipped it back into place (with the help of a rubber mallet. I can turn it, just not by hand. The channel locks I'm using, to turn the...

Your main drive belt has no tensioner? According to the Partstree diagram, it's a straight shot to the engine. So just to be sure, the belt is secure around the engine pulley? Also, the transmission linkage from the pedal is correct? Or am I looking at the wrong diagram?

And correct you are, as usual. Ha, when I finally got the crankshaft out, I was expecting roller bearings. So it looked like everything melted. But soon realized it was just the crankshaft machined to fit the hole. I don't understand why there's no oil journal for the top bearing? Seems that...

I understand what you're saying. It lunges when you first press the pedal, and almost immediately it's like the belt isn't gripping. Pardon the pun, sort of like a "catch & release."

It's mine now. He traded it for some work last year. And I'm just getting to it. It's a winter project. And no, I haven't checked out all the bearing yet. Just the two crank bearings. I'm getting there. But before you go, here's something to help make you smile.