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The upside, less traffic. Easier to get tickets to stuff, fewer parts backlogs. lol

I stream everything now a days, so I get different commercials. There's one where a guy is trying to get convenient stores that sell vapor cigarettes. His sales pitch is not for nicotine injected vapes. But only the "anxiety and depression" side effects of it. LMAO. He tells the one clerk, "My...

When people get their hopes up with any politician, they tend to overlook too many things. It's been my experience that a politician will always let you down. And it won't be from mistakes. Funny thing about the left or the right. If you're a R, and you have a lot of supporters, you can do...

It could just be the blade. Did you go from a high lift blade to a straight blade?

Your initial post didn't give much information to really diagnose the problem. So the advice and questions was simply to get more information, to steer you in the right direction. For any tech, "what's the problem" is our initial question we all ask ourselves. What are the symptoms is the next...

Follow from the pedal all the way to the brakes and see where it's binding. Was there a tensioner that has to move, when the clutch is pressed? Those have to be a certain way so they can tighten or loosen. Being that this happened just after replacing the drive belt, I can't see it being...

Sounds to me like you may have more than one problem. Struggling to turn over. Then won't stay running for more than 3 seconds. Dying when you release the choke. Defs: Turn over.... Engine spinning when starting What is the "struggling" part? Struggling to turn over or struggles to run after...

What engine does it have? The engine model numbers will be stamped on the valve cover.

How much compression does it have?

If you don't have a lot of them, then using your water hose (with a nozzle), soak the ground with high pressure, next to the base. On at least two sides. Wiggle the roots out, or dig with a shovel. I only had about 10, so it didn't take me long. I had extra dirt (from the pasture) to fill in...

When you have eliminated the impossible, whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth

I don't know the difference, but apparently "Slime" has two types. One for tubes and one for just tires.

You should've saved the sealant to put in the tubes. It works better in tubes than tires. Depending on the size of the hole, of course.

All I can think of is to jack up the front, grab the wheels and move them left to right (individually and both) and see where the slack is. You might get someone to hold the steering wheel while you're doing it so it keeps everything except what's loose, in place.

I'm wasn't trying to clean the carb. Just keep it running when it shuts down. Carb spray does just that. And more. In fact, it's almost magical the way it will keep an engine running and clean the carb after it's dismantled. In fact, it'll allow an engine to run, even without a carburetor...

I'm thinking the cam may be worn. Accidentally used my left arm for pouring milk the other day, and can't hardly raise it without it hurting, so I haven't been back to the shop to do anything with it. But I'll check the rise on it. Sure wished I still had my dial indicator to see just how far...

I'm sure there was. And you may be right about it clogging something up. Except that even using carb spray, it won't start. By the time I started using it, the battery was drained, and having a hard times getting passed the compression stroke. So i put it the battery and my jumper on charge for...

I tried the carb spray on it today, And didn't get much more than a cough. Also watching the spark tester firing while it's turning over. I haven't checked the timing key, simply because it sounds fine when it does run. But now that you bring this up, I've adjusted the valves, but still get...

Hey everyone. I've been out of sorts lately. Some medical issues (Back, knee and elbow) Still not back to up to par. But supervising my nephew on a problem he has. It'll run for a few seconds. (30 sec. tops) then just die. Spark test: When it dies, the crank is still turns enough rounds to see...

Yeah, was born in 70. My first pick up at 16, was a 65 Ford. I changed plugs and wires pretty often in my late teens, because I didn't know any better. But from the 55, 65, 68, 69, 71, 75, 82, 84, 88 & 95 Ford's I've ever owned, I've never seen sparks coming from the plugs (installed) or the wires.

I've never heard of spark leakage before.

When you take the carb off, the big hole that goes straight to the piston. Same as when you remove the muffler. Through those ports, you can see the piston go up and down when you spin the flywheel. With the piston all the way down, you can see the cylinder walls. As the piston is going up and...

I've used to those clear plastic pieces before. And can't remember any problems with them. All they really are is like a check valve. The allow fuel in, and keep it from going back. At least that's my understanding. Unless I've missed something along this discussion, the blower runs fine as...

I used to repair brass & copper radiators, like 30 years ago. (right here in this same shop, as a matter of fact) We used a lot of torches on a lot of different things/ (other than radiators). They were a lot better than this mapp gas I'm using. But I rarely need anything more than mapp gas.

I've never had too much problem using map gas.

Being a horizontal e I'm using map gas. I think that's what it's called. Been a while since I actually read the label. It's the yellow canister. I tried the method you mentioned. Pry bar behind the edge of the crank while using a big air hammer. Ended up bending that bolt. Not enough that I...

How did I "do up the puller?" I put it on normally. Used a different screw for the center, that threaded in just right, tightened by hand, the used the 3/8's air impact. That didn't work, so I used my POS 1/2". That didn't work. So then I got the good 1/2" from the tire shop side. Did that til...

It looks almost exactly like that. Just didn't come in the case. It's doing it's job. Except the impact I'm using is starting to bend the smaller bolts that screw into flywheel.

I had to use the 1/2 impact to get the center bolt loose. I've used the big air hammer on the center puller stud, and still nothing yet. The puller I'm using, i'm not sure what it's for. It's the same ones you get off the shelf at the parts stores. I've used it a few times before...

This is on a scag 61. Horizontal engine. Only one place to get a prybar under the fly wheel at, being there's not much room without taking the intake off. So with the one place to pry from, using the snap-on air hammer, didn't do the trick. So I've got the puller on it, and using the tire...

My guess is it's coming from the needle. Meaning the metering level isn't correct. Or the needle or seat is bad.

New seal worked out like a charm.

Is there something pinched somewhere around the carburetor? Because just putting the cover and the air filter on it should have almost no affect.

A clogged muffler is unlikely. The screen is usually the first thing to get stopped up. There should be a couple of screws and a plate that fits over the exhaust hole. Being old like it is, it's possible that someone has removed it. You probably won't be able to see the screen without taking...

Any sort of air restrictions changes the air/fuel mixture. Put everything back on and re-adjust. Adding an air filter, changes the amount of air that is going through the carb. Therefore you need to change the amount of fuel also. That video does show a drastic drop in RPM's, in what...

I'm gonna recheck that. Even though I'm getting 120 out of both plugs this morning. It shouldn't have been getting a different reading last night. Maybe that jumper is getting thin. All the wiring looked good.

There is only one 120v outlet. And one 220v outlet. Well, first rattle out of the bag this morning, I fired it up, plugged in my testers and was getting 120.7 out of both plugs. Hertz was at 61. Not sure what could've happened. The last thing I did last night was remove the gen cover...

6.5hp Chonda engine on a NIkota 3500w Gen. It has what looks like a capacitor in it. This thing is old, so I'm guessing that's also a regulator. Anywho, After making the repairs on this (carb mainly), I checked the voltage. From one plug, I dialed up the governor to 120v's. The other plug...

After pulling on it several times, remove the plug to see if it's wet. If the plug isn't wet, then you'll know it's a carb issue. If the plug is dry, you might squirt some carb spray through the carb just to see if it'll hit. Be sure to check the plug for wetness before using the carb spray...

This thing runs pretty good. Just not closed to the RPM's I think it should run. Adjusting the H out, really doesn't change anything, unless I'm closing it. Took the recoil off and found a pretty bad crank seal leak. Very wet around it. Question: Would a crank seal have that same affect on...

I've noticed that. I can't find it anywhere. You'd think this would be a readily available aftermarket part. But I can't even find one on Ebay or Amazon. If I can't find it here, maybe I can rig something. Was trying to adjust it out for the new belts, when the threaded part broke. I'm pretty...

PTO cable for a MTD tiller, 212-390-000.

Some of you guru's, please correct me if I'm wrong about this. I'm getting some of last years left overs ready to sell this spring, and ran across this trimmer someone gave me last year. The carb was junk, so I tossed it into the "rebuild later bin" and put a new Amazon carb on it. The carb...

Impacts are faster. I don't keep on impacting the nuts. Just stug'm slowly. The variable speed trigger makes it quick & easy. You just can't go overboard with it. BTW, the guy was doing a complete rebuild, so I assume he just removed everything necessary for that. But it did make it a lot...

Getting it off, requires getting those two carb bolts out. Not a straight shot with the impact. The rebuild vid I watched last night, showed the handles being removed to get to those easily. Maybe a 1/4 ratchet will do in the future. Thanks for the heads up on the new W tool. Would've been a...

I was a little distressed this morning when I fired it up. Bogged right off the bat. Squeezing the trigger slowly through the bog was successful. It slowly throttled up to WOT. Afterwards, I could pull the trigger fast, without the bogging. Could've all just been the warm up period. But no...

The both L and H are limited. The H was turned as far as the limiter would allow it. Customer just wanted new primer lines, so that's all I did. (I've been griped out lately for doing a little more than another customer wanted so I'm sticking to doing just what I'm told to do) Anywho, this...

Is $2 for the cap. $15 for the name.

If I'm not mistaken, you can check the timing just be looking at when the flywheel magnets cross the coil. While you're there, double check the flywheel key.

I pulled this out of a fuel line last year.