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roughly 15 years ago, on an older Craftsman rider i had , i took the spindles apart... removed the inner seals.. and drilled and tapped for greasefittings... right thru the side of mandrel between bearings, making sure they could be reached with the deck and pulleys on. since then, i have...

ive seen that issue before...a backyard handyman incorrectly assembled choke parts

sounds like someone wanted to make a quick buck... or hundreds:confused:

i have a 20HP briggs on a craftsman rider, makes a similar noise. disassembly showed too much clearance on the counterweight rods. anyone else experience this? runs great , mows well...just that annoying rattle

if it has an automatic choke... be certain the linkage is not binding, it should be closed when cold. i had one with a weak choke thermo spring, also had one binding on the pivot shaft.

on that note, i have 3 craftsman riders i have converted to 'greasable spindles' . i change the bearings, remove the inner seals and install a Zerk mid-spindle between the bearings. i have run one deck for 4 mowing seasons without an issue. i use a hand grease gun so i can 'feel' resistance and...

dont be too hard on yourself... i am a 69 yr old retired mechaic, and ive done plenty of silly moves myself..."If i would have known id live this long, id have taken better care of myself " :cool:

or stripped crankshaft gear where the key is..

broken camshaft??

its been o n the back burner for 3 months now...i started a part time job... garage has been closed temporarily

Has anyone tried running one of these engines WITHOUT the counterweight inside??? ready to experiment...i recently acquired another engine, this one a 20hp... same noise...

i wish folks could all be on the same side of the fence with "non-start up " terms. not turning over, wont 'catch' etc...it either cranks and will not run, or...it will not crank with the starter... cmon folks..

remove the sump and make SURE the timing gear on crankshaft keyway is not stripped. i went thru a similar situation with a briggs pressure washer engine

no it does not...but tks

i need to go measure the sump guide again..im thinking it was on the .248 side..

another thought, i wonder, with all the yrs Briggs has been using plastic internal parts... couldn't they have designed a replaceable nylon sleeve for the counterweight??

yesterday i was between jobs in my shop, i remembered quite a few times using a centerpunch to raise metal for a closer fit.so i put several marks on the edges of the sump. where the weight rides... the counterweight fits alot more snug on the sump. i know it will not be a permanent solution...

so, does anyone know the measurement specs on counterweight groove, and the rib it rides on??? i have .005 clearance... when i move it side to side it 'knocks'

i have a question... why, in the 04-s kit, does it have TWO needles??? it looks like one is longer, which tells me it would shut fuel off at a lower level.??? am i right?

so, if i have a gravity fed carb, i can remove the needle and seat, and install the pressure needle and seat in its place?

i will get that in the morning thanks

i will more than likely change the oil AGAIN after i figure out the problem...

I have an older Broadmoor...#1693840 with CV46016 hp Kohler . with a chi8nese replacement carb , the carb started flooding and belching black smoke when i was mowing the other day, finally quit 20 feet short of my garage. ordered a replacement chinese carb from Amazon... just installed it, will...

thank you very much!! ive been looking for a manual that covers this 31H777 intek...

Mine is at high limit on crank eccentrics... i didnt find ANY wear on rod or journal... interesting, i may put it back together and run it. i ran this mower at high throttle for 3 mowings ( about an acre each time) never skipped a beat, ..just that annoying low speed knock.when i saw the...

thank you, now i can find out if this is where my knock was coming from

that was not the problem... they were tight, i have the engine on my bench torn apart... my question was, where can i find measurement specs for these links?

i have this 18hp intek, model listed above... there is some (not measured yet) play in the counterweight links to crank journals... could this play have caused a low speed knock? similar to the sound a bad rod would have made? was noticeable more at idle to low rpms, than under full power...

i wish my problem would have been that simple

governor update!!! well, after 2 governor changes (both blew up) i believe i found the problem.if you notice the pic of the governor layin in the block, the shaft came out. i believe it was loose and moving the first time the governor blew up. and, leading to the "hunting rpm's" . after my...

i also realize it was a lot of time and extra work, but i never in my 45+ yrs of being a ,mechanic, was one to 'give up'. i wiull beat this thing...one way or another!

So, after tearing this engine apart for the THIRD time, with a gov issue... i found this in the sump/crankcase...i realize that governor shaft is NOT supposed to come out, but it did, and it ruined the new governor. have another one ordered... in the mean time, i put of some of my limited...

yes, i put new lines and filter on, and new fuel pump... pushes fuel out the outlet in a good stream. i have not done a volume test...maybe i should. i will do that, after i put the engine back together. thanks

the part that has me dumb founded, is this engine ran fine, although it had the rpm hunting before it went full throttle the first time... i just don't see, what changed...maybe ill find it when i tear it down

and thanks again for the link to manual... this will help me not go 'blind' into assembly. if this engine hits max rpm one more time, i may be throwing it on the scrap heap.

thanks for the info... according to THIS instruction, they are rotating the "control" (round piece). at full throttle. im assuming with some tension on governor spring. they are NOT holding the governor arm at full throttle... maybe i better try this way first... i checked and double checked the...

i might also add, this was an engine swap for a knocking 18 hp one cylinder. twin eng model 407777-0128-E1

Well, i guess it is time to pull the engine a 3rd time... after getting a new governor gear assy, gasket and gov seal. i checked and rechecked everything i can see with the governor... put the sump back on, set governor , held at full throttle with a cheater wire, turned shaft clockwise till it...

Ok this story seems to get nothing but WORSE... now, upon inspection of the gov gear shaft, i see there is no snap ring that goes into the case. also, i notice some galling right above the lower snap ring groove... my question is, is there a part number for a new shaft with both snap rings? the...

that was my initial thought, when i get this back together thursday, to limit the throttle at the carb... ill keep you posted, thanks for the info

i really think one weight was off when i started it the first time...

Update... i believe i found my errant governor hunting problem...parts are ordered... cant wait to get it together.

OK, so now i am removing this engine i just installed. i wanted to warm it up BEFORE re- adjusting the governor.. it went FULL throttle, i was afraid the rods would fly out before i could shut it down..i guess maybe the governor came apart, maybe it was failing last week? who knows..a teardown...

i will recheck governor adjustments...and post back a reply. thanks

this is a 20hp v twin intek donor engine from a junk tractor with the 2bbl Nikki with the black plastic fuel transfer tube and 1 main jet., it has been sitting for 4 or 5 years. i will check the governor settings again, both idle and high speed. and try to cheat the governor back a bit. it has...

appreciate your reply, so...how do i proceed to set governed idle speed? mine does have 2 separate springs...on attached to a fixed point on bracket, the smaller (idle) spring on a bendable tab , also, both these carbs have the single jet fuel tube (black) , so i ruled out one of those affecting...

mod 407777-0128-E1 000607YG

also, most small engines have an anti-surge spring from gov arm to carb link... i wonder why these do not?

no change with choke, already thought maybe a bit on the lean side. and, as i said... this surges with a carb off a separate tractor that ran fine. im beginning to think i may have to pull the engine and check governor.