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The mower is stored inside a non-insulated shed. So, if the temperatures is 20*F outside, the inside of the shed is most likely also 20*F. Feel free to look over the 10w-30 spec sheet. These oils replace the older SAE 30 oils...

Yes, application matters. Amsoil only recommends an oil if it meets and exceeds the manufactures specifications. I pull oil samples to analysis the condition of the oil. This way I can monitor if there's something going on with the engine (fuel dilution, contamination, oxidation, etc.).

A good quality oil like Amsoil isn't going to shear. The Amsoil 10W-30 Small Engine Oil reduced oil consumption 61% in lab testing compared to three leading 10W-30/SAE 30 motor oils.

The higher elevations get snow in September. We don't see snow at my elevation until October. We typically start mowing in October and finish in November. The snow doesn't stay on the ground for long during those months.

Actually, the 10W30 is a 30 weight. The 10 is the winter weight. In warm temperatures, the 10W-30 and 30 weight perform the same at operating temps. Here's a good read for you -----> https://lawnmowerguru.com/sae-30-vs-10w30/

The pulley system on the D100 loosened up after running the mower for a few hours, so I'm happy to report that everything works as designed. In total, we've mowed an estimated 7 acres.

Since 10W-30 and SAE 30 have the same viscosity grade at operating temperature, so there won't be any problems. The 10W-30 is a better oil since I do my last mowing in November when the temperatures are much cooler. I want the cold weather protection as well as the warm weather protection.

I'm updating this thread to say that I'm about to take the D100 out for the first time since putting it back together. Before doing so, I wanted to test the mower deck and make sure everything works. I started the mower and noticed that the belt is engaged (turning) even though the PTO is not...

I'll be switching back to Amsoil on the next go around.

That's good to know. I need this engine to last a long time!

I usually run Amsoil, but I had some SAE 30 bottles leftover, so I wanted to get rid of them.

Air filter is changed.

I used some Goo-Gone and a scraper to clean up the ugly looking discharge shut.

The mulching cover also came in. This completes the mower deck.

More parts showed up today. Here's a before and after picture of the front bumper.

The dust caps had to be warmed up before they would go back on.

The axle, washers, spacers, and inside the hubs are clean. I greased the axles before installing the wheels.

I was surprised when I pulled the wheels and found the axle dry of any lubricate, which made me stop and ask the question. I will apply some anti-seize or grease to the axle.

This may be a stupid question, but is there any reason why I shouldn't apply grease to the axle allowing the wheels/keys to slide easier?

The D100 is getting closer to being fully operational. The brake parts got cleaned, new pads installed, anti-seize applied to the dowel pins, and everything is back together. I need to check the brake adjustment, otherwise, the brakes are fully functional for the first time in a few years.

I ordered new brake pads and a new disc. I replaced the pads, but I'm going to continue to use the factory disc. I'll save the replacement disc for future use.

Thank you. That's good news. I can see how someone could easily lose the key, especially if they aren't working on a nice clean garage floor. I heard the key hit the concrete, otherwise I wouldn't have known, either.

On a side note, the key came off the axle. Is that normal?

I took pictures as I removed parts in hopes to make it easier to put it back together.

Just to be clear, the pulley that is stuck is the transmission idler on the machine, not the deck idler. Since the pulley appears to be in good condition, I will continue to use it. With that said, I went ahead and ordered a drive belt idler arm and two new pulleys last night for a future...

1) Checked belt for cracking. Belt checks out good. 2) Tried to remove idlers. One came off and checked out good. The other idler won't come off! Any suggestions?

The technical manual says to replace the friction pads and the brake disc anytime the transaxle is disassembled. Does anyone know the part number for the brake disc? It's the part labeled #7.

Reviewing the Technical Manual that you provided, it looks like I might need two new brake pads.

After cleaning out the haystack, I disassembled the brake assembly to inspect all the parts.

PM sent! Thank you!

I pulled the rear wheels to get a better look. Here's what I found. Any feedback is appreciated.

Thank you! I will begin going through these steps this week. I have a question, though. My D100 doesn't have any stopping ability. I lost the ability to brake a few years ago. Does this mean that I need to replace the brake pads or could there be an adjustment issue?

How do I know if I need to replace any of the components regarding the transmission drive belt?

I got the new grease fitting installed. Problem solved.

Removed and replaced the original fuel filter for the first time. It lasted 139 hours and approximately 10 years.

The deck is 10 years old, but keep in mind, I only mow a few times each year. I also live at 7,100 feet in northern New Mexico where things don't rust.

You are right. Each shield has a small opening. I can't reach the zerk with my current lock-n-lube coupler from that small opening. I considered buying the lock-n-lube XL, but I decided to position the zerk towards the opening for easy greasing. I did manage putting the deck back together...

It works for me. I pointed the zerk towards the opening in the spindle shield. I use the pictured lock-n-lube 90* adapter to make it easy to grease them.

How much should I pre-grease them? The directions say to grease them after install, but it doesn't say how much grease.

Okay, so I'm going to ignore the position of the shrouds and be more mindful of where to locate the grease zerks. Here are pictures of them mounted.

When I was installing the spindles this evening, I noticed there are shrouds around three of the mounting holes. but one hole doesn't have a shroud. Why would that be?

Here's a comparison between the old and the new. Gapped at 0.030 in.

I took your advice and made a few purchases today.

I would encourage you to look at the spindles on Amazon for $27.99 each. They look identical to the OE spindles, plus they have a really good review rating.

Do you have a part number for those bushings?

While I'm waiting on parts to arrive, I thought I might try to replace the spark plug. Do these plugs come pre-gapped or do I need to buy a gap tool?

Thank you. We like it enough to eventually build a garage, shop, and cabin on it.

Thanks for the information! The diagram is super helpful. It's nice to see all the parts involved. I'm hoping that replacing the grease fitting will put be back on track. If not, then I'll do as you suggest (disassemble, inspect, replace as needed, and clean). I purchased the mower in 2012...

I appreciate the feedback. I just ordered an assortment of grease fittings. I've got a few pieces of equipment (tractor, dump trailer, wagon, lawn tractor) that use grease fittings, so it might not be a bad idea to have some parts on hand. I'm also in a remote location, so I don't always have...

I do have a question though. I just discovered (via YouTube video) that there's a grease fitting that I didn't know existed. I tried to put grease in the fitting today, but it won't take grease. This is the fitting at the very front of the tractor. I'm not exactly sure what part it greases...