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The parts diagram is saying it takes a 954-05022A not the 754/954-04118. The 754-04118 is 122.5 inches and the 954-05022 is 108.3. According to parts looks up the 754-04118 is for the 2008ish 46 inch and the 2011 and newer 54 inch decks.

The irony about this entire situation is my nephew owns a stump grinding business.

For me this morning it is going from won't load to the fastest it has been in months.

Oil level was fine. Maybe not at the full mark but within tolerances. Did an oil and filter change along with a new air filter while I had the mower.

The last 3 Kawasaki engines that I tried Champion plugs in wouldn't start hot. I won't touch another Champion if I can avoid them.

It would really help if we had the model, type, and code from the engine so we could see what your engine looks like. A 140cc engine narrows our options down to a few hundred variants.

It also doesn't help when they show illustrations with diagram numbers that are not used.

The only spring for your throttle is the 209B. Your model-type-trim doesn't use a secondary spring like some other versions of engine do. Some have 2 governor springs and others only have in your case the one.

Today Ardisam/Earthquake has announced that they are suspending all service part orders until further notice citing the current tariff environment. So parts sold online and through dealer distributors are limited to stock on hand.

An I I forgot about the sheared flywheel keys on 5 HP horizontal shaft flat head Briggs engines on tillers.

Threaded Stihl piston stop for 10mm spark plug hole

Shipping delayed. Suppose to be here tomorrow. OEM pump.

Your first picture looks like the PTO button is pulled up. So check the pto knob to make sure it is down.

Could be a fuel tank leak but I would be looking very closely to the fuel line and fuel tank grommets at the tank junction. I think that would be more likely the leak area.

Is anybody else seeing a pattern of repairs In the past 2 weeks I have had a failed keyswitch on a JD Z225 and a CC ZTR-S60. Today was a burnt connector with blackened terminals on a fuel solenoid that is showing NLA on a Husqvarna Craftsman. Funny thing is the digital IPL shows a Walbro carb...

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I had an issue with a name brand starter solenoid years ago. I purchased a box of 5 of this solenoid from my parts distributor. Every solenoid failed after exactly 3 starts.

This thing has already been through the 2.3 gallon 6 transducer ultrasonic cleaner for 2 30 minute cycles, plus had all the passages ran with a thin wire and blown out with both carb cleaner and compressed air. And my experience with Amazon carbs has been not great. All have tended to fail...

Spraying around intake manifold gaskets does nothing. Spraying into the carb causing a rich run. I have since discovered posting this that the fuel pump is bleeding off, so I am questioning fuel flow. Have a new pump ordered and will see what happens.

No broken spindle housings. She said she hit a stump.. I don't think there was a stump involved. I think the worse of the 3 blades came apart and go so imbalanced she thought she hit something. All 3 of the blades had their tips line up after the new blades were installed, so nothing was even...

Received this mower last week after the customer said she hit a stump and deck started making loud noises and was vibrating. I think the issue long before she hit the supposed stump.

You cannot remove the bearings without damaging them. Only possible way would be to put the spindle in a press and then may sideload damage the bearings, or crack the spindle housing. Either way you will need to replace the bearings if you remove them from the spindle.

It appears you have the Nikki carb which the jets inserted from the top of bolt in emulsion tube by both the tiny O ring that is on the jet and also the diffuser tubes that are attached to the carb and slide down inside of the emulsion tube. If the emulsion tube is unbolted and removed and it...

I would start with checking the battery and/or charging it. If it didn't crank by jumping the starter solenoid I would be leaning toward dead battery.

I think the steering rod to the front wheel is installed backwards. from the parts diagram needs flipped 180.

I didn't include a part number for the OHV valve gasket set because in most cases the only thing you will use will be the head gasket, and the exhaust gasket.. The gasket set doesn't include the O ring for the plastic intake manifold, just the paper gasket for the metal intake. Also most of...

273280S is the head gasket https://www.partstree.com/models/219907-0131-b1-briggs-stratton-vertical-engine/cylinder-head-gasket-set-engine-gasket-set-valve-intake-manifold-valves-6/

I think you are at a crossroads. The powder coat has done what it does. Peel off in sheets. The replacement cost of the deck will amount to about 50% of a new mower cost. So this one could go either way in my opinion. The hood looks to still be in good shape which is normally the first...

The 2 things may not be related. I have seen the seals on the Command series engines just get loose and fall out. Usually happens after a few hundred hours.. Even the new seal going in doesn't fit all the tight sometimes.

Just below the ring that inserts into the oil pump there is a bent finger protrusion that is suppose to lock the pickup to the pump. The hook is broke off of your pickup which is the reason it fell out. https://a.co/d/gB1S79v

Checked compression on both the 750 and the 620 The 750 is reading 125-130 on both cylinders hot. For comparison the 620 is reading 170 on #1 and 220 on #2. The Mule is having intermittent issues with the valve in the electric fuel pump which didn't act up the day I was doing the initial...

Auto Doc there is no way of knowing how long this engine has been acting up. Maybe it hasn't been running correctly for several years. And what I have been reading makes it sound like sudden low compression and loss of power and shutting down is more common that you would think. Several...

Straight from the FD750D service manual Compression Measurement • Before measuring compression, do the following. 􀀀 Be sure the battery is fully charged. 􀀀 Thoroughly warm up the engine so that engine oil between the piston and cylinder wall will help seal compression as it does during normal...

It is.

Update. It appears that there are sources that have the compression for this engine incorrect. The source I came across say compression was supposed to be 107. But that is a misprint and is actually supposed to be 170. Gentleman we have a compression problem.

Current part number is 37x88MA.

This carb has a 2 screw cover that covers a cavity that basically acts like the fuel bowl vent. It has separate air bleed screws that can be accessed from outside the carb. I have blown carb cleaner through the air bleed but may go back and recheck with running wire through the air bleed...

Just as a side note for reference. The 750 lbs atv/mower lift is only rated for 500 lbs as a mower lift.

I have removed the main jets and have both sprayed them out and also cleaned any old residue out with a wooden toothpick. And the fuel solenoid has been both operated by hand to make sure it wasn't sticking and also bench tested to make sure it is retracting. It seems to run relatively good at...

It is in the back of my mind. I don't remember any of the valves short stroking like the lobe is worn but I need to pull the valve covers back off and make sure they are not short duration. Meaning the lift is normal but the valve open time could be shortened if the lobe has narrowed due to...

I have and with no change. So I don't think leaking that much air around the shaft. Leakdown testing shows less than 15% bypass at TDC so at least top of stroke the rings, head gasket and valves are sealed.

Lets start with the model number of the mower. So we don't have to guess which of the 1000 different models of cub cadets mower you are trying to repair and what the spring looks like or even a picture may help.

The green wire is connector to the oil pressure switch. Could have 12 volts with the key on due to it being on the ground side of the oil pressure light. Basically the oil pressure switch provides the ground to turn on the oil pressure light.

I am going to say NO, but truely unknown. I am thinking in the back of my mind this a valve issue also, but without pulling the exhaust and the intake and draining the cooling system to pull the heads to examine the valves won't be able to prove it.

I have this engine on a Scag that is runnng poorly. New NGK BPR2ES plugs. Been through the carb. Adjusted valves to factory spec. Compression on both cylnders is around 110. Will not start hot or cold without choke. Popping back through the intake intermittent on both carb barrels...

Depending on year of mower there is the possibility of a clogged fuel cap vent. Also there could be debris in the fuel tank that is stopping fuel leaving the tank. After those things check out. I have seen a couple cases were the heat shield that should be covering the exhaust manifolds is...

Hear the click from the carb, And can also put your hand on the solenoid and feel it click.

That wire I am thinking about may just be on the vertical engines. If you have the metal intake manifold it may not have the grounding wire. If it is plastic there will be a secondary wire that connects to the carb to ground it.

First issue is finding out why there is no fuel coming from the tank. Possibly debris stuck in the pickup tube. And the solenoid is connected to that wire that connected to the bullet connector. There should be battery voltage present with the key both in the start and run key positions, but...

If you disconnect the fuel line between the carb and fuel pump and crank the engine does the fuel pump, pump fuel into a jar or other container. And does the fuel solenoid on the carb click when the key is turned on and off.