Everide Warrior 60" wont start. Lost.

The voltage regulator really has nothing to do with the ignition system if i read the service manual correctly.
Question: do the coils have a single tab for a single wire and not a multi wire connector? If so remove the wire from the coils. This eliminates something grounding out the coils. Set the coil to magnet gap the thickness of a piece of cardstock, about 15 thousands.
Stick a bolt in each of the plug connectors from the coils and position 1/4" from ground and crank the engine. If you get spark your ignition syatem works. It will run the engine. If you have spark the install clean dry spark plugs and connect. Now with throttle wide open and no choke spray about 1 second worth of starting fluid into the carb and try to start the engine. It should fire and run for a couple seconds. If it doesn't you either have a compression, valve seating or valve timing problem.
If you pull the kill wire off the coils and you don't get it to jump a 1/4" gap with the proper coil to magnet gap then you have a bad coil or weak magnet

The spark is generated by the magneto coils which are outside of the flywheel
The stator & internal magnets are just there to recharge the battery,
Kawasak actually give a cranking compression ratio which is 57 psi when the valve lash is smack in the middle of the specks.
SO measure it on both cylinders and tell us what you find.
Next measure the coil gaps using a pencil down the plug hole verify that the external magneto magnets have just started to pass the magneto coils when to piston is at TDC compression stroke ( inlet valve just closed ) and it should be the same for both sides
Also check that you are rotating the engine in the correct direction.

Now if you did not take a photo before you removed the carb, double check that the throttle & choke wires are hooked up correctly.
Being a V twin the throttle plate is set up so it can be used for either a left hand control or a right hand control.
Anr whike you are there verify that the throttle wire stretched the governor spring , causing the throttle to open fully.
Remember the throttle butterfly is the one nearest the engine and of course the choke works the choke and is closing when the cable is tight.

Also double check that the governor rod is holding the throttle butterfly wide open when the engine is not revolving .

Please do not feel embarrassed because we have all done it before and some more often than others/

Once the kill wires have come off the magneto coil there is nothing that can prevent a spark happening

And finally, toss a little of the fuel in a dish, soak it up with a rag the toss a match to it.
If it doesnt burst into flames then the fuel is off.
A lot of older fuel tank sealants cab be dissolved into the fuel rendering it non flammiable .
That last one took around 40 trips to a workshop to work it out.

Here's the info on testing the ignition coils. Personally I my $200 DVMM to do this but as noted some meters can actually damage the coil's electronics.

Also from personal experience yes both coils can fail on an engine. I had a Kohler v-twin last year that both failed on. Would not fire at all with both kill wires in place. Internally steering (blocking) diodes had failed. Though it is very rare that this can happen.

AVB said:

Also from personal experience yes both coils can fail on an engine. I had a Kohler v-twin last year that both failed on. Would not fire at all with both kill wires in place. Internally steering (blocking) diodes had failed. Though it is very rare that this can happen.

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I have seen it enough that most of the time I replace both at the same time. Nothing like having to pull an engine two hours after replacing a module just to have the other one fail.

The one time i have had a mower in the shop with both coils bad it was because one coil had failed sometime and the large V twin had enough power the homeowner didn't realize it was running on one cylinder. When the second coil died he brought it in. Could tell it had a dead cylinder for quite a while from the spark plug. You would be suprised how many V twins i see come in for annual maintenance that has a dead cylinder from a bad coil but customer thinks runs fine.

Here if a v-twin has a dead cylinder it usually shows as soon as heavy load is applied.

These mowers with 25hp engines on a 48" deck will do a pretty good job on one cylinder.

AVB said:

Here if a v-twin has a dead cylinder it usually shows as soon as heavy load is applied.

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You would be surprised how many people don't notice that they are running on one cylinder. Or even notice the power loss when it happens.

Got one in the workshop.
No right hand piston or rod.Customer claimed he bought it from new like that but the right hand bore is toast .
Sp most likely he saw it cheap ( cause the previous owner had butchered it ) convinced the treasurer that they needed & could afford the "new" mower and thus ended up with some "play money on the side .
Runs perfect but dies when trying to do a 6" cut