Recent content by slomo

Normally you go by YOUR outdoor ambient air temp. Look in your engine manual and it will be like this for example.

I would wet it down if it was me. Did you stitch up the top? Freaking internet. Some brilliant people on here LOL.

Or 3.333333 ft lbs. Not a lot for sure.

Keep the oil at the full mark only. It is hard on the engine when you over fill. Does a lot of nasty things to the oil. Doesn't help engine life at all. I saw you get stuck and that cracked me up. Was thinking how the heck does a lawn tractor get stuck on that tiny slope. Then the James Bond...

$100 each? That is less than a half tank of gas these days. Get all of them and a couple spares.

Are the intake push rods aluminum in these? If so I would install the OEM aluminum push rod on the IN side. Makes it a softer sacrificial part just as Briggs does. To me, overheating caused this. Course all the other issues can stick a valve per say. Rocker arm moved from its position tweaking...

Send me all these good parts you are tossing away please. Good 30 minute carb boil should take care of them.

Make sure your torque the flywheel down to proper specs. If not this will happen again.

Agree on the worn parts. Replace all the bearings, idlers and spindles you have. If one is going the rest are not far away. Also use the OEM belt/s.

Good to have a short hose. LOL (y)

Normally from over torqued screws. Agree, normal oil and replace the gasket.

Oh my bad. Forgot Biden was in office.

I've mowed with some that nearly killed the engine. And around 1987, we had to put what I call a power strap on them. That was a bungee cord connected to the handle bar and the throttle lever directly. As in running it wide open, with the blade on first. On mowed weekly grass, they would costs...

Head gasket time. Man you got the James Bond Series tractor there. Don't start pressing those buttons you don't know what they do. Might light off an anti-tank missle LOL. You should cut that grass in different directions too. You can see you cut it the same direction every time.

Another satisfied customer.

160psi sounds rather high. That comes out to 10.88:1 compression ratio. Valves must be rather loose.

From what I can see, the bore was sealing. Rivets, what are you seeing? I see oil buildup on the right and lower center areas. As Rivets said, we are only seeing half of the gasket.

Get on the Kroller web site. They have them there. https://www.kohlerenginesparts.com/

Take yours out and measure it. Or order a new one. Can't be more than a few bucks.

Just like any head gasket, needs retorqued at least once. Aluminum heads more often.

Replace the belt and check pulleys. Grease away if you have zerks. Pull the oil dip stick and smell for fuel. If you smell fuel on the stick you have a carb problem. Also do NOT run the mower if you smell gas on the stick. Fix the carb and install a shut off valve. Again confirms dirty carb...

First things on the swap out list. (y)

Stop using the mower. Fix the carb. Pressure test the needle and seat to 7psi. Should hold for 30+ minutes with a WET needle. If not get a rebuild kit or a new OEM carb. Stay off Amazon and Ebay for carbs. Once the carb is fixed, dump the oil a couple times PRIOR to mowing.

Agree. Most of those small 160cc engines lack the torque to spin start 2 blades from a stop. Really bad if you have thick Bermuda or Zoysia. Or wet grass as some cut these days. Dull blades and so on..... Trying to cut off too much at once. Mulch mowing..... This is one of my main gripes about...

Stunned to say the least. Most people don't have a clue what that means. (y)

Lazy Susan.

I'd service the trans and clean the engine cooling fins.

Couple really good guys that are up on Hondu's over there.

And you did a nice job cleaning up the wiring too.

LOL

100" is pretty small these days. You got to keep up with the Jones' family. They have a 246" deck.

Check out the hondu section on here. There should be a ton of guys that can help you out. I've read a lot about that wax thing failing often.

I use plain old Supertech wallymart SAE 30w. It's full of zinc too being SG rated. Runs super clean and is cheap. That's the reason I use it because it's cheap. Mowers don't need NASCAR oil. $12.86 a gallon all day. [URL unfurl=...

Why are you concerned when Honda is happy with it? They made the engine and know what type oil to use. I haven't seen any real evidence that zinc does anything in engine oil. Zinc is only an additive. Has nothing to do with the base oil. Most likely a sales gimmick to get you to buy zinc oil...

My question is can you buy a better machine today than that one? LOL Your great grand kids will be mowing with it.

Snapper is barely still around. No advertising and nothing new in 50 years. Can't improve on the tried and true Snapper recipe. I'm still waiting, to this day, some company, that offers a better push mower than Snapper. Some machine that really lights my fire. 🍿

Bet the shroud has never been off. Also with this many years on her, I would replace the fuel lines, filter and clean the tank out. Describe what a tune up is? Increase rpm's to 8600? What work was actually done? Any mice around your place? Sounds like you have spark. There's one off the...

How did the spark plug get imprinted into every male human brain as the first part to look at/change out? Crazy thing is, I can't recall the last time I've replaced a plug in a mower. They rarely ever fail unless you drop one. ????????

Call Briggs and Stratton. Most companies have a toll free number these days.

Install Linux and a cool ad blocker. Try Linux Lite if you are a Windoze fan.

Take pictures of the rear drive and post up here. I can't see anything from my house from what you provided. Videos are great too.

Need your mower model number. Have a feeling Snapper made more than one mower.

Air pressure is around 14psi in the front and 10 in the rear. Check your manual for proper air specs. Maybe your steering linkage is bent causing excessive tire turnage. Don't turn so sharp. Might have worn out front tires too. Slow down your mowing speed. Put new fronts on and recheck.

If it was on a Snapper, my guess was it worked well. I've seen a couple with that side mounted tank. Don't know how common or how many years they were used.

Get a tractor? Cut more often? Hire a lawn service? Sharpen your blades? Slow down when mowing? Side sling the clippings? Don't try to mulch tall grass? Make sure the grass is dry?

Next time filter the gas and mud with a coffee filter or something.....

Riiiiiight.

I'd hate to speculate, how many yards that thing has cut so far. o_O

Verify you have these. Air, fuel, spark and compression. Can't cut grass without them. Couple homework assignments for you. 1.KEEP and remove OEM carb from engine. Break it down removing all small parts. Boil clean the carb on your stove top with water and those automatic dishwasher balls. Use...

I'm a home owner. I follow what's inside these engine manuals. Why? These people made these engines and know what and how to keep them alive. Shop mechanics would never do this, I agree. Why? People want the cheapest repair possible and will not pay for something they've never heard about. Most...

Chunks of carbon can break away, get into the bore, piston and ring area and gouge the crap out of these mostly aluminum bores. Yes some are cast iron lined. When that happens we get deep scratches which lead to oil burning. No secret where this leads. Guess I'm the only one that buys/has old...

ONE company, that is overseas, stops making baby formula. Say that again to yourself. What happened? These CEO's know how to manipulate the US customer. Toilet paper outage? WTF This is all a democratic comedy show right? Tonight on Comedy Central, Joe Biden....... Back to lawn mowers LOL.

It's all about all those federal and state laws against price gouging. See, in the US, we have laws against it. But today, we all see it in everything with a dollar amount attached to it. Just 2 more years lord...... 2 more years. Amen

This is from my king shiz nit Wisconsin Robin EY20V or WI-185 engine manual.

Here's a Kohler engine manual I just grabbed off the internet. Every 100 hours have the combustion chamber decarbonized.

Not for nothing. I looked at 3 of my push mower engine manuals. One a Briggs, one a Kawasaki and the other the gutless Honda GXV160. They all say at X amount of time, clean the combustion chamber.... Briggs manual Kawasaki manual Honda GXV-160 engine manual

You ought to be a professional car/truck heater core swapper then. You think your little cover is rough LOL. You actually have to put your cell phone down and pull a dash out.

Couple tid bits to start on. 1.KEEP and remove OEM carb from engine. Break it down removing all small parts. Boil clean the carb on your stove top with water and those automatic dishwasher balls. Use a candy thermometer to keep water/soap temp at 200F. Boil for 30 minutes. Rinse well in clean...

Maybe at your house. Battery mowers offer me nothing over a gas engine. They are what I grew up with and use today. I recall one neighbor had one of those corded push mowers LOL. She and he would fight that cord and waste more time on it than cutting the yard. Deck was a whopping 16" maybe.

New batteries do that at every crank. What chew talkin' bout Willis?

Who are you and are you trying to cut in line here?

By God, make sure you remove the spark plug boot first. Safety first here guys. Don't know how many times I've had to go out in the garage and kill some mower engines over night. :LOL:

On most all air cooled mower engines, this is everyone of you reading this, it's been recommended to run the engine at full revs all the time. Why? For proper engine air cooling and lubrication. Briggs states max service life and durability when ran at max revs. As in 3200 to 3600rpm per your...

You talking about the carb bowl gasket? I would remove all small parts like needle and seat, float, float hinge axle pin ect... Remove all pilot screws and welch plugs to get behind them for cleaning. Do the best you can. Most of the time that bowl gasket will be stuck on. Sometimes reusable...

Engine is starving for fuel. Carb and or fuel system is dirty. Confirms engine wants more fuel slash dirty carb/fuel system. Ah a partial attempt I guess. Not a full rebuild. That would be clean and all new serviceable slash wearable parts/gaskets. Take a glass quart canning jar. Scrap piece...

A fix possibility yes but not often. Need to figure out why you are losing spark. Fuel lines yes, carb NO. Unless you are buying a new OEM carb. Some tips to start on. 1.KEEP and remove OEM carb from engine. Break it down removing all small parts. Boil clean the carb on your stove top with...

Carb is still dirty. Need to: 1.KEEP and remove OEM carb from engine. Break it down removing all small parts. Boil clean the carb on your stove top with water and those automatic dishwasher balls. Use a candy thermometer to keep water/soap temp at 200F. Boil for 30 minutes. Rinse well in clean...

First post from google. On another site. https://www.lawnsite.com/threads/kohler-efi-issues-ecv730.488269/

Some engines don't look at the O2 under full beans. I don't know about yours. Power enrichment I would think, would be increased rpm's or engine load. Sounds like more fuel is being dumped by the computer. Are there any computer upgrades offered for this?

What happened to the OP? This thread in nothing but 3 thread jackers and a lot of W-2 wonder business guff. 4 pages now with no resolution. At least the guy is not selling MS junk like some other spammer on here LOL.

KEEP and remove OEM carb from engine. Break it down removing all small parts. Boil clean the carb on your stove top with water and those automatic dishwasher balls. Use a candy thermometer to keep water/soap temp at 200F. Boil for 30 minutes. Rinse well in clean water to neutralize after. Blow...

You sure the oil doesn't smell like gas?

Primer on an FJ180? Okay new to me. Sounds like you have an oil issue. Are you SURE the oil level is correct, on flat ground? Engine tipped over on any side? Check your engine block vent tube is clear and open.

Get from Amazon or Ebay?

Agree

Which TDC stroke did you use? There are 2 on a 4 stroke engine.

Is it gray colored smoke or black. As in a rich sputtering choke on like condition? Is your plug oily or black carboned up? You do know on that bad azz engine, you only park the dipstick on TOP of the threads while checking oil level right? Briggs engines you screw all in. Most other brands...

Again every year of mowing this is a must. If you have a bagger, even more cleaning jobs are needed.

Post pictures of your filthy block and cooling fins please. Remove it all down to the flywheel. Several people are saying they pulled the shroud and all was clean. Every, I repeat, every used mower I've bought or curb grabbed, there is a ton of cleaning to do. Fins and block all slathered with...

Another satisfied customer.

1.Remove fuel tank. Clean out 100% with compressed air. Install new fuel line, filter and shut off valve if you have room. 2.KEEP and remove OEM carb. Remove carb from engine. Break it down removing all small parts. Boil clean the carb on your stove top with water and those automatic dishwasher...

I corrected my false info about fuel flow. On the LEFT side or carb side of the engine. Hook a new piece of fuel line to the hard line that goes to the carb. Then run that hose into a big quart size glass jar or larger. Let it flow for a good bit. Can pour it back into the tank if clean. This...

Shrink the pic and repost here. Google how to shrink if you have to.

Have you ever adjusted the valves?

Okay you are not getting off that easy. (y);) You need to check if you have air, fuel, spark and compression. Go back and reread what we all offered you. You need to check for spark with it dies on you. Your ignition coil might be going bad. I bet you have some junk in your fuel tank like...

Exactly.

You might get a lawn service then. Should only be maybe 4 bolts max to remove it. Might have a plastic cover with a couple screws on top of it. You need to remove the engine shroud YEARLY. As in if you don't, you are looking at ENGINE DAMAGE. Or in your case a possible mouse fire that burns...

I'll take the old engine. Even pay for shipping.

I heard twisting wires together and it worked again. Hope you insulated your "handy" work.

So you've ignored what I wrote to you. All you have done is loosen the fuel cap and complain here. Good luck with it.

Carb looks great on the outside. Hope the inside is just as mint. (y)

I got a cheapo Chinese fuel pump off Ebay. Was like 15 bucks. This was not my machine BTW. Helping a friend. Anywho, this sat for a couple years. Fuel lines were rotted ect... I didn't check the original pump for flow so I can't help there. The Ebay one works so far LOL. I just figured the...

At over 5 bucks a gallon in cheap Oklahoma, I bet you've changed your tune recently LOL. Don't know what you pay at the pump. Heard Kali is over $7.50 a gallon.

If you have room, place the rod in the oven. Heat it to 250F and try again.

I sleep better at night knowing a mower of mine has good fluids and is ready for battle. Fins are clean....

Let's be fair keakar. Those junk mowers you speak of probably have mowed more grass than we've all seen. And of course have several decades of solid use on them. Little wiring repair for a 50 plus year old mower isn't out of line. "Come on guys!!! Brandon Biden"

Of course. Actually on some Toros I've done, the trans will rotate in a down angle once you remove the belt and I think a wheel or two. Been a while so don't quote me on this. Or just remove it entirely from the deck. I hear ya Rivets. You like dead grease. It's all good here. (y)

I would try to clean what you have first. Boil clean the carb once all small parts are removed. Here is a link we were just talking about this. https://www.lawnmowerforum.com/threads/calling-bertsmobile1-carb-cleaning-info.69341/

Sounds like junk in the fuel tank. Dump the tank, verify it's 100% clean. New fuel lines, filter and a shut off valve would be nice. When you turn around, fuel sloshes around in the tank. Maybe clogging slash unclogging the tank outlet. Remove the engine cover and clean the block and cooling...

To my poor eyes, it looked like all the oil is gone from your grease. Looks black and has cut more than a few yards LOL. Not that expensive to change it out.

Agreed on the lube repack being not a decisive diagnosis of his issue. Just said while he was there....... My opinion, that roofing tar sludge has to go. So you would actually leave that 1967 Flex Seal in there, in a mower YOU own? Cool. (y)

Another satisfied customer.

Can't we all get along LOL? :p

As Rivets was leading to, maybe dirt all in the wheel/bearing/sleeve/gear area. I would clean that old dead grease out while you are there. That looks ultra sticky with no flow to protect parts. Old paint pan, some Diesel and an old paint brush. Clean that sucker out.

So roughly 200F, any common dish washer soap, neutralize/rinse after and blow out with compressed air. Sounds easy to me. Thanks Bert for the info. (y)

Thanks for the input. From what I've seen on really dirty parts, repeated cleanings are required using those ultra mega cleaners. I'm interested in the boiling method. Seems to be much cheaper and clean better. No harsh chemicals (carb cleaner).

Wanted to openly ask Bert if this is his carb cleaning method? Guy says 200F and no hotter water temp. Can I follow this and be safe? Seems to work for this guy. What to put in the water far as soap or other cleaning agent? Guy says dish soap.

Another satisfied customer. (y)

Ah I'm sure they are fine. Probably wouldn't put the wife and kids in one.

Nope. I'm still waiting on a 0-turn that doesn't rut up the yard like an M1 Abrams tank.

Has anyone got this resolved yet? Up to 9 pages now on this epic saga. 🍿

Bailing wire, duck tape, 3n1oil and zip ties. These items will fix anything. Don't forget JB Weld. Far as the Biden reference, you must of voted for our current president.

Set the float flat or level with carb body. Get your choke working proper.

You are mostly a fixer, not a user like me. Richer will start easier, agreed. Even carbs with flat float settings will over time carbon up the cylinder. Think most engine manuals say like every 5 years, pull head and clean valves.

Bailing wire. Come on guys!!!! "Brandon Biden".

I set mine a touch leaner on the float. Slows down the carbon buildup in the cylinder/valves.

Stopping engine damage. Yes it is necessary. Chunks of carbon can dislodge and get between the piston and bore. As well as it gets behind the valves causing the valves not to seal. Common wear does that too. Cleaning the fins and decarboning is in every engine manual.

Nope, sounds like it works as it should. Just make sure the pedal and the safety switch adjustment height, if any, are adjusted proper. Again from what you wrote, the choke is working fine. Normally the filter will have an air pocket. You would think it would be full especially with a pump on...

PO installed a cheap Amazon carb special just for you LOL.

Remove the metal cover. Blow out the round plastic spool that holds the starter rope with compressed air. Do not lube it with anything. Only attract dirt and grit to destroy that part. Might GENTLY open the three fingers that hold the spool in just a small bit. Nothing drastic here. Don't be...

What valves? :D

Clean the block and cooling fins while you are there. Might pull the head/s off next winter to decarbon the cylinder/s and valves.

Probably Techron in a bottle.

but once turned off...won't restart To me, sounds like a partial safety switch working and not working. Check operation of the brake/clutch pedal and switch while trying to start. Verify the choke is working proper. The last 15S I worked on sat for 10 years. Installed a cheap-o Ebay fuel pump...

If you want it clean without YOU cleaning them, toss that case in your wife's dishwasher. Put on hot pot scrubber mode. Sucker will come out ready to eat off of. Every house in America has a darn good parts washer in the kitchen.

Dude, for tired old greasy oily gunk removal, Diesel and an old paint brush. Well now it's 5 bucks a gallon thanks to Brandon Biden. We can all thank the voters who voted for that puppet. Or that stolen election. Back on topic, best stuff to use and normally cheap.

Then you got to think about the millions of other mowers out there running fine without additional oil cooling.

Brake cleaner :rolleyes: How about some good old fashioned engine degreaser and a scrub brush? I know you real mechanics want it done as fast as possible..... LOL

Heard rumor that Briggs made more than one engine. Might need your engine numbers so we can help you. Explain what fine means to you. Was the battery load tested? Resembles a battery sitting on your mower? Looks like one at an auto parts store? Plastic box with 2 cables on it? Oh, oh, oh, we...

I just worked on a 13.5hp Briggs Intek head gasket chunker. Mower set for a couple years. Carb needle hung wide open. When I shut it off, you could hear a percolating sound coming from excess fuel into the cylinder. Filled up the oil sump vent tube with fuel LOL. Fuel was bought a week ago. Hope...

Some lube is better than nothing. But.... I would of used Snapper's 00 grade grease if it was mine. That tacky red mess doesn't flow at all. Once the initial turning gets done, no grease will be picked up to further lube anything. Grease is a thickened oil. See where this is going? Key here is...

Probably used that ultra grade Amsoil 25,000 mile stuff which equates to like 648,000 lawns cut LOL. Jesus, is that a Diesel engine LOL. Talk about some black tar sludge. Looks like a rear end cover off a Cheby truck. Keep us posted on the refresh buddy.

I was wondering if any real cooling was gained from all this.

How did you get the Snapper lettering done?

What color red did u use? If I recall, Krylon cherry red was a close Snapper red.

I told you that Turtle Wax was some goooood stuff. Wow what a shine. o_O

Deck is only $690 plus shipping. Cheaper than a new mower. I would take the bad deck to a welder, vo-tech school or a high school welding class. Slob a little primer on her and some JD gloss green. Someone around you must be good with fire tools. Or look at facebook marketplace for the same...

Carb still dirty or trash in the fuel system. Amazon or Ebay carb? Was this the OEM carb for this engine? If so it's dirty too. Explain what fine means. You see one present? Is it hooked up proper? Wrong spot maybe? Wrong spring in there from a hardware store? Surging is either a vacuum...

Ignition coil going out or weak maybe. Clogged fuel system. Crud in tank and fuel lines passing rubber trash to carb. Never adjusted the valves. Never cleaned the cooling fins.

How about removing the metal engine shroud? Maybe clean the block and cooling fins? Heard it's pretty important to do this yearly.

Another satisfied customer.

That resin also insulates each part as to not let heat dump off too. Damn if you do, damn if you don't thing.

That definitely needs to be looked at. On a carb, the round plate closest to the air filter is the choke plate. Round'ish plate closest to the engine is the throttle plate.

Those carbs are a 50/50 gamble. Might work might not. Best to boil clean your OEM carb and replace needed parts. No way of confirming that for sure. You have fuel in the oil, yes. Fix the carb first then dump the oil a couple times. Do NOT use the mower until these 2 are done. Gas dilutes the...

I'm not allowed in the kitchen anymore. My 5 foot 0" wife won't allow it LOL. o_O

VW heads don't have oil circulating inside them unless I'm missing something. Maybe they do. Head temp and oil temp are different. If and oil gets over 300F look out. Definitely time for a cooler. Assuming said engine has a 0% zero leak down figure to it. On theses old tired mower engines I...

Lots of mowers have gravity fed tanks. Some larger ones have fuel pumps. Just saying..... You should be able to wipe your fingers around every end of a hose or connection and find a fuel leak. Like I said before, replace ALL of your fuel line and be done with the leaks. Unless your tank has...

Some people like me, park mowers in the garage. Some people have cars in their garage. I have several gas cans in there too. Put away a hot mower in a 110 degree garage in peak summer. Think about it.

I respect your opinion sir. You can add all sorts of goodies to your mowers. My experience was once on a CJ-7 Jeep. I installed this ultra cool 800hp rated oil cooler and a dual 2 quart Chevy oil filter relocation kit. Fancy hoses and all. Long story short, one hose AT the block came off on...

Okay I'm stunned for one LOL. Nope just some smoke. Reseal the valve cover. Most likely you have grass and grit in the fuel tank passing trash to your carb. Dump the tank and spotlessly clean it out. Carb too is probably in need of a boil cleaning. Clean your block and cylinder cooling fins...

Read what you wrote here again. Read it out loud. Fuel leaks can burn the mower or garage slash house to the ground. Put new fuel line on her or repair the leak asap. No. Jets could be plugged up as well as the carb needle stuck closed. Agree with the other guys.

So when the engine vibrations rub a hole in the filter and trashes your engine........ Hope your yard is perfectly flat. Must admit, cool mod you did. Thing is you want your oil good and hot. Gets rid of moisture for one. Day temps 95+, night around 65F. Condensation in the oil sump.

On Kawi engines, you park the oil dipstick on TOP of the tube threads when checking oil level. Never screw it all the way down. Check your engine manual for more info. Could of been low on oil??

Seals.

Ah, don't go away mad. I've got 5 old Briggs that are perfect. Tip there was old. I love Briggs. Not a fan of their new garbage like you. (y) You bought the cheapest disposable mower you could find. Notice no commercial guys use the same kind you have? LOL

Fins and his oil are fine as he stated. For oil to flash off, the temp would be 450F and above. As in engine meltdown mode. Hydrolock hydrolock hydrolock. Plastic carbs. Cheap mower alert!

You lost 99.98% of all humans on this planet. Can you elaborate on this please? (y)

What's wrong with DG oil? Do you think DG really makes their own oil? Probably made by Amsoil.

Pull the oil dipstick and smell for fuel. If you detect gas, fix the carb needle/seat. Once carb is repaired, dump your oil a few times.

Carb needle sticking open. Maybe hydrolocking the cylinder. Pull the oil dipstick and smell for fuel. If it smell like gas, clean or replace the needle/seat in the carb. This was mentioned previously with no action on your part. Sescond try, where did you get this "new" carb" from?

Wow, I had no clue. Thanks for the engine info.

Another satisfied customer.

Remember those Briggs 3.5hp horizontal crank engines? The ones that every kid boy in America had on their go-carts? And 40 years of McLane Edgers and so on? Try and get a used or new air filter housing now LOL.

If you bought that machine new disregard. If this was a used new to you machine, someone might of driven it into a pond on accident. Maybe some steep slope mowing action. Then they sold it off as cherry.

"Just used a cheap Harbor Freight electric chain saw last weekend. Is was a corded max amperage model.

I stand corrected. Model number sounded like a 2 stroke.

That plug is waay wet. As in carb needle sticking open wet. Pull the oil dipstick and smell for fuel in the oil. How much was the Amazon carb?

Time for: 1.Remove metal engine cover. Clean block and cooling fins, all around, up and down. As in clean like a new engine. Neglect this and look forward to engine damage. Read engine manual for more info. 2.Pull the head/s and decarbon cylinder/s and valves. Neglect this and you are looking...

Boil clean the OEM carb. You need good heat to disolve that gunk in the carb.

This is a 223cc engine with 10ft lbs of torque. Would make a monster push mower engine. Snapper RER's in 28" normally are 10hp, 30" say 12'ish and the big 33" deck is 14.5hp-16 ish. My 33" Snapper has a 14.5hp 400 something cc Briggs. The pic below, that engine doesn't belong on a RER.

Another satisfied customer.

That is a $16.00 kit. Doubt if it will support heavy amperage draw. Probably a radar detector and one night light.

I call that the deadman lever.

Sounds like the flywheel brake is doing it's job. When you push/pull the deadman lever, should have a lot of resistance. This strong spring pulls back on the FW brake and brake shoe. Follow the lever/cable/big coil spring assembly to see of the brake is being released.

So you have air, fuel and spark. Still no signs of life. Remaining factor is compression. Time to open her up to check valves and piston/rod.

Wright.

Check your engine manual for the decarbonizing procedure and when it should be done. If you wait too long and small chunks of rock hard carbon get into the cylinder, it will score the bore killing the engine. It will start burning oil...... Below are critical items that almost never get looked...

Yup, some 3n1 oil and gauze pads. It's all ball bearings these days. Look at that muck on the windshield.

Go clean your cooling fins Rivets LOL. (y) :D

I hear ya Rivets. Still that cheap old tired grease most likely needs removed with Diesel and a brush. But he did say in free air no drive issues. When he lowers the deck and loads the drive system, all heck breaks loose. As in dead bearings in the trans possible. Came from dead lube and...

Your new carb is a Chi-Sneeze Gambler Series. Those work as long as you verify the fuel pump works/plunges up and down proper. I had to do some milling to open the pump hole up a bit to get the pump to plunge proper. Your old carb is the old style and is what goes on that engine. Boil clean it...

Here is the strong spring you were talking about. Again it's supposed to be stiff. Little guy in red crayon. Depending on the cable type, shoot PB Blaster penetrating oil into or on the cable. Those cables with the circular wrap, those you shoot oil on the outside of the wrap. Which perculates...

Run SAE 30w oil in that only. Fill to the plastic plug as in overflowing out of the threads. Make sure the block is level doing this.

Put your reading glasses on Rivets LOL. I see a lot. First off, wash that mud bog Saturday Night Special off. Remove the top metal engine cover. Clean the block and all cooling fins like it was a NEW engine. These are air cooled. Running it like that, you are asking for engine damage. Those...

Off topic Who has put that monster on a push mower? If I ever need to get a new engine that one is going on. Or the equivalent Kroller.

Definitely on dumping the oil. Maybe 2 or 3 times to get all the fuel out. That needle works all the time just like a toilet in your house does. Yes it needs replaced and the seat cleaned/replaced too.

Replace all the fuel lines/filter as you are doing. Flush out the fuel tank. Every tank in the world will have some grass and dirt in the bottom. This debris will try to make it's way to the carb and impede fuel flow. That causes bogs and such as you are starving the engine for fuel. Make sure...

Is the OP cutting grass yet?

Take it back where you got it from. Pro tip: buy mowers at real mower shops. Not Home Depot, Lowes, Tractor Supply and so on. No big box stores. If you still want help, we need the ENGINE numbers please. Mowers have 2 series of numbers. One for the mower itself and the last for the engine...

Most likely the grease inside the trans is dead and dried up. Which in turn killed the trans.

Some newer Briggs have a QR code too.

That was all planned out in perfect alignment. (y) Next chore is remove the top engine cover and clean the block cooling fins and all around the block. This is a yearly must-do in all engine manuals. You did half of the cleaning sounds like. Dig a little deeper where it counts, at the cooling...

What is happening now? Update please.

New mag will need to be LOAD tested. As in taking an old plug. Gap to 1/4" or 0.250", super wide. Ground the threads and check for healthy spark.

Air, spark, fuel and compression. Back to the basics. Any and all new parts will require testing. New is not new these days. Most likely the carb and fuel system is filthy. Valves never been checked. Block cooling fins neglected as in never cleaned or looked at.

What kind of amperage you looking to light up? Anything over say 5 amps, I wouldn't tie into the factory wiring. For heavy amp draw (10+ amps), connect straight off the battery with a FUSE and proper gauge wire. Solder and heat shrink as you go.

Air, fuel, spark and compression. Start with the basics.

In your case, a lawn crew is in order. Time to hang it up sir. Sit back on the couch and relax.

So are you saying that sink stopper you cracked a pic of is off a mower fuel tank? Confused.......

How about a couple push mowers? You know his and hers? Great way to get some good exercise. Also some much needed romantic family time :love: . A 0-turn is a bit much for that tiny yard. A 33" Snapper RER would be perfect.

Battery, starter solenoid, cables, GROUNDS and such. Was this "new" battery load tested? Dirty or loose connections. Need to test this "new" solenoid. All these new parts require testing. New isn't new these days. Is the engine cranking as in turning over but not firing? What it sounds like...

Depends on your ambient temp, humidity, in the shade or not, engine lean, normal or rich, any exhaust leaks prior to the outlet, block cooling fins all plugged up, fuel grade, fuel tank with water and so on............

A safety thing on a mower fuel tank? Is it a bottom fuel dump to clean out the tank? That o-ring is there to seal an opening.

How about pictures of where it came from? We all can you your previous picture.

Don't worry about my opinion. Follow your manual is all I was saying. If it was me, I would try to change it. Use my Briggs 4 liter fluid sucker and go to town on her.

What, taking a couple pictures?

Disregard what another model says about anything on YOUR mower. Follow what your manual states to the letter. Might read your manuals, mower and engine, several times. There is a lot of good stuff one can miss that could be crucial info. Case in point, cleaning your engine block and cooling...

It's one of those added parts to make someone's mower/engine different that the others as not to get sued about copying their stuff. Take several pictures of where it goes in the tank and post it here.

Oh they sure can and do. And just wait till yours does $$$$$. And a lot of waiting on a mower shop to fix it. I would follow the mower/engine manual about fluid/filter changes. Can't fix what's not broken.

You know this is a 2 stroke trimmer right? Doesn't have valves and such? There is a RECALL on this trimmer. Read about it below. https://www.stihlusa.com/safety/recalls/toolless-fuel-cap/fs90r/

Chi-sneeze carb was brand new. In the mower world, Chinese carbs are a gamble if they work or not. Either clean and fix/repair the OEM Kroller or buy a new OEM Kroller carb.

Can we get your engine and mower numbers please?

Pull the muffler. Clean out the exhaust port and muffler screen as suggested previously. Rebuild the carb.

Another satisfied customer. :D (y)

A 5w-40 water oil will shear down faster than you can cut the grass. That is a super thin 5w grade oil, with a ton of viscosity index improvers, to be a 40 player at 212F. Does your air cooled engine have a temp gauge? How was this cooling breakthrough stumbled upon? Run what you want, you...

Don't forget to lap the block and head. Must do or you will be doing this over and over and over.....

Um, replacing the gasket, as you say it, is simple. Prepping the block and head takes time. You will need to lap the block and head with 220, 400 then 800 grit wet/dry paper. Let the paper do ALL THE WORK. These parts are soft aluminum. Spray bottle with soapy water and a small sheet of plate...

Pull the fuel hose AT the carb. Should have good flow. If this has a fuel pump, have a buddy crank it a bit. Should pulsate fuel out of the hose. Drain it into a glass jar to see if trash comes out.

The finer blade grass like Tifway Bermuda will even compound what Bert said. When I scalp mine, I get tons of clippings. City cans full. Mound after mound in the backyard......

Drill new hole so a bun-g will hold. If parts are no longer found, got to crack some eggs to make an omelette.

A 14hp with no solenoid, okay. Usually will have one.

Not seeing the issue????

If you want the best looking yard on the block then bag it up. Gets rid of weeds and their seeds too.

It's all about the brand names these days. Just used a cheap Harbor Freight electric chain saw last weekend. Must admit, that little light sucker wasn't bad. Definitely not for a tree service. Did what we needed to do and ready for more. Very easy to start too. LOL

Hope you kept all the old parts that were removed.

If you have no time to cut the grass, hire a lawn crew. Problem solved. Sit on the couch watching the game. Won't have to buy gas for it. No blades to buy and sharpen. No oil and filter changes. No storing that huge item sitting outside. No machine to buy. No decision about a machine to buy...

Ace Hardware, Tractor Supply and guessing others have wheels of all sizes. Would look cool with 24" Dubs on her.

From what was offered, sounds like the engine is starving for fuel.

Repair the wires with solder and heat shrink tubing. Or install a new wiring harness. Unless something else was chewed on, should fix this issue.