Recent content by Rivets

I have to agree with Star on this one. I’ve seen this more than once where the spindle bearing start out tight, but after they warm up no problems.

Unless the engine is running poorly, it’s probably the valve cover gasket leaking. Part #691890. That amount of oil in the valve cover is normal.

Here is the service manual for your unit. Section 5 tells how to adjust the drives. https://www.toro.com/getpub/78978

Slomo, where do you think that carbon and oil came from? The OP stated the bolts weren’t very tight and with the visual evidence I’m saying I don’t think the head gasket was sealing the cylinder.

Looks like the right hand side might not been sealing. Wouldn’t know for sure until I saw the other side of the gasket.

Most Briggs L-head engines have two key slots of .1561”.

The drive system will not affect the starting problem. Let’s fix this first, then go after the starting problem.

I should have looked at the schematic before posting my reply. I now see you have a starter mounted solenoid which changes step #3. When you do step three you should get 12VDC at the purple wire connection on the solenoid. If you don’t have voltage, either one of the safety switches is bad or...

“” Drive belt seems a little loose but seems ok to me really.”” If I had a dollar for every time I’ve heard this, I’d be fully retired and probably not on this form. It takes a very experienced eye to evaluate a belt by sight and feel, and then mistakes are made. How long has it been since...

Did you read step #4 in my procedure?

Along with the schematic Star posted, this procedure may help you out. Electrical problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things. 1. How well you understand basic electricity. 2. What tools you have and know how to use. 3. How well you follow directions. 4. You don't...

Did you read posts #9 & #10?

Might want to try this. Go back to the first LB shop and ask them if they know of any old farts who repair engines. They might know of someone who might take on this project.

Glad to hear you’re back in business, always say ”use the KISS method first.”

Anything I find is extremely $$$$. Do you want a complete assembly or just parts so you can rebuild. Might try contacting this company by phone. Original part number for assembly was #539103298, superseded to #539107410. https://www.ahupd.com/husqvarna-539107410

We’ve got plenty of time to wait, keep the better half happy, don’t push her, we’re married too.

Wrong Scrub, you know I’m never right, ask Star. Just got lucky pointing him in a direction which helped him. Going by his last post, I would try the following before pulling the carb. Get a can of good carb cleaner (SeaFoam, GumOut etc) and on the day before I was going to cut add about 6...

Can long, slow operation kill a tranny? Yes it could, but I doubt it. Before I would say you have a major problem, I would check the simple things first, like the drive belt. When was it last changed, over 3 years ago? If so time to do so. Before buying a new one, remove the deck and crawl...

Post a couple of pictures so we better understand your problem.

If the fuel is leaking out the holes in the top of the cap, the gasket is not sealing. If it is leaking around the base of the cap, the cap is bad or the threads on the filler neck are bad.

Sounds like you need a new cap.

With the style of carb used on that engine I’m betting that the float needle is stuck closed not allowing fuel to enter the carb. To find out if I’m right, remove the bolt, 10mm wrench, on the side of the carb bowl. Not the one on the bottom!! If no fuel come out you’ve found your problem...

According to the manual you are attaching the spring in the correct holes, but I have 4 questions. 1. After you adjusted the governor, how far does the governor arm move, engine not running? 2. When you attach the spring, engine not running, can you manually close the throttle by pushing on...

If you lookup the part number I posted, you’ll notice that both the gasket and cap are vented on these older style setups. At the time these were used, this was the way to reduce splashing.

Diesel engines are a different breed on small engine equipment, so most of us, myself included, don’t work on them to often. I’ve included a service manual for your project which includes troubleshooting procedures, which I go to when working on them. Trying to explain what to look for and how...

I’ve tried to do the best I can for you, but if you need a 1000% proof you’ll not get it from me. Hope someone still has the Tecumseh micro fiche cards and a reader to give you the absolute proof you want, I don’t. There are a lot of other service techs on this site who are way smarter than I...

Doesn’t take a lot to verify the engine. Just type in the number, that’s what i did to justify my reply. I dont know any other way to prove it to you. https://www.partstree.com/models/143-056700-craftsman-engine-made-by-tecumseh/

I said good mowers, not cheap mowers.

Those caps had full cork gaskets like this one. The full gasket reduced the leakage problem. Briggs # 394818S. https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0128/2336/3684/products/pneo0time7ulozvahhqy.jpg?v=1587625107

You are correct an electric mower. When I saw a picture of the unit I remember them being around for a couple of years. Here’s a parts breakdown of your unit. If you take your old battery to a place like Battery’s Plus, they might be able to help you. I’m thinking cost of a new battery may...

Sorry, I don’t comprehend.

All depends on who’s buying it And overall condition. To me a winter project might be worth $250. I know that seems low, but we’re taking a unit with a minimum of unknown electrical damage. You must remember you are selling a non running piece of equipment.

Most good mowers use an 1/8” think bevel washer on their blade bolts.

I don’t know of any way to verify anything puchsed on Amazon. That’s why I never buy anything there. There are people on this forum that do, but I guarantee my parts and work so I don’t take chances.

Try resetting the governor according to the procedure in this manual. https://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Kohler-Service-and-Repair-Manuals/Kohler-Service-Repair-Manual-Courage-SV470-SV480-SV530-SV540-SV590-SV600.pdf

Intake gasket #25756, kit #631021B. Here is the procedure I use, along with videos on the web you should be able to fix it. Needle and seat replacement. Remove the carb, and then remove the float bowl. Check the float bowl jet (which is the bowl screw) and make sure the jets both horizontal...

The carb number you need is Tecumseh #640350 which you posted. Personally I would never purchase a carb from Amazon or Fleabay unless I absolutely had to. They are not reliable and a total crap shoot. If you are mechanically inclined you can clean and rebuild the carb for less than $10.00...

I’m betting you mean electric starting mower, not an electric mower. As stated we will need a bit more info from you. Can you take a picture of the ID tag and/or the battery on the mower?

Might want to try this website. http://www.manuals.group/results.php?search=YAMAHA%20YLM%20346%20MOWER%20INSTRUCTI

Logged in this morning to NO SPAM. Thank you everyone who worked to resolve this problem. Hope your work will be a long term solution. Although you have many members who you can’t help fast enough, those of us who’ve been around for more than 5 years really appreciate your efforts. THANK YOU...

Ok, I’ll concede that it’s being posted in owners manuals. That’s what they say in the manuals to CYA. I guess you’ll tell me that a majority of home owners would even think about doing this Or know what it means. I’ll still stick to my statement, “NO NEED TO DO THIS UNLESS YOU SUSPECT OTHER...

Might want to give these guys a call, as they have Bunton parts. https://www.lawnmowerpros.com/bunton/bunton-parts.asp

No, just call them as I see them. I’m not psychic so I ask questions to better help understand his problem. Didn’t think they were that difficult to answer, but I guess I was wrong. Mowing for ten years with different mowers, but never had a problem, doesn’t tell me much except that something...

You need to start over with more info, as we are confused as to what you want. Please give us the following information. Model and serial numbers for your unit and engine. Nature of the problem or problems . What you have attempted to date. What specifically are you wanting to know...

Thank you. I for one appreciate the work you and others are doing to eradicate this problem. The habitual complainers about spam are just like the guys who come to this forum wanting an immediate fix and get mad at you because you can’t always provide one. Sometimes if wish there was a...

So you can’t answer all my questions…..End of help!

You asked for help and now you berate me for trying to do so? I really don’t care how long you’ve been cutting your lawn, I was trying to better understand your problem and help you. I’ve been working on all types of small engine equipment for over 50 years, so because you’re probably a...

Most Tecumseh engines should be set at 3200-3400 RPMs. This engine has a fixed speed setup, so adjustments are made by adjusting the governor control. Most ears are not calibrated close enough to do this.

More questions than answers. Are you making sure you are cutting when dry? Wet, lush grass will clog up very quickly. Are you cutting too low? You should only remove the top third when cutting. Grass is 5” tall, setting should be 3.5” Are you running the unit at full throttle? Cutting at...

After 18 years I suspect the crankshaft oil seals have dried out causing an air leak. Fix would be to replace those seals, if you’re so inclined to spend the money and time. Don’t recommend taking to a shop, would cost to much for them to do it.

Probably just a bad valve cover gasket, but as says return it.

Are you sure that your issue should be with the dealer and not the manufacturer? I’m not aware of Hustler’s recall procedures, but if they knew they needed to beef up a bracket, there might have been a dealer notice of a repair procedure recall they did not pass on to you. Might want to...

You are correct in your assumptions about the grounds. Grounds come loose for a variety of reasons and that is why every experienced tech will tell you, “ALWAYS CHECK GROUND CABLES AND CONNECTIONS FIRST”

Your attitude just lost you any chance of help, bye.

Thank you MParr. Finally someone offering to help instead of just complaining. I would also do so, but with my knowledge would do more harm than good.

First, Briggs is not out of business. Second, most push mowers build today do not have manual chokes, you’ll have to do a lot of searching to find one with, especially in the low to medium price range.

You’ve gotten all the life out of those belts, if they have 500 hours on them. Time to replace, normally recommend 200 hours, even if they look good. Remember your old flames, looks never tell condition or if they really like you.

Since you don’t give us a model number, I’m going to guess you have a variable speed unit with two belts and variable pulley. When was the last time you changed the belts? As the belts wear on these drive systems they like to slip and grab. If they are over three years old I would start by...

Here’s a parts manual for your deck. https://www.thepowerportal.com/ipls/ipl.htm?md=1691424~_IPLURL_LO.pdf

Do you have a 36” or 42” deck. Please supply us with the tractor and deck numbers. Should begin with 169

No wonder I couldn’t find info on it. Me and Canadian units do not play nice, as I can never locate anything about them. Thank you for showing me I’m not crazy, just poor computer skills

Might be, but I’m finding no listing of the engine used on that model. I’m also not finding that model number in any of my Sears data files. I found 26hp Briggs engines on different model units, but none matched your engine number.

Did you use an OEM belt or after market? Should be part # 7042776YP

I could find NO Craftsman Z-turn units around 2008-2010 which use that engine. Did find a Snapper Z-turn which did use that engine. Is it possible the someone swapped out the original engine? Sorry, maybe someone else will have better luck.

Post the entire Briggs model, type and code numbers. With them we might be able to help you out.

Place the starter. You need all four magnets for the starter to work. At that time you can start to troubleshoot your other problems.

Your HS35 has an adjustable carb. First thing I would try is to open the high-speed mixture screw (one on the bottom of the carb) an 1/8 of a turn to give it a little more fuel. If I couldn’t fix it by making a fuel adjustment, I’d be rebuilding the carb. This manual might help you out...

Reread Bert’s post #12 and do what he tells you. After preforming this test you will have a lot of info as to how to proceed.

I’d only recommend making a purchase of a leak down tester if you plan on getting into the repair business. I’ve never used an oil pressure tester.

Numbers are either stamped into the shroud above the spark plug or on metal shield over muffler.

I’m assuming you are using OEM coils #591459. This is one I’ve only seen once before. That time the customer had a bad ignition switch which applied voltage to the magneto terminal burning up the coil. I would test the switch to may sure yours is not shorting to the coil.

You’ve probably have one of the hardest units to replace an engine control cable on. A lot of disassembling is required to accomplish your goal. I’m sorry to say there is no manual available to help you out. My suggestion to you is to see if one of you local repair shops has a junker around...

Ok, you guys win, I give up. There’s no arguing with guys who’ve solved the same problem on different mowers or charge for repairs that may no be needed, so they can sleep well. I’m getting out of this one. Juntjoo, PM me if you need more help.

Have you checked the blades? Are they 90 degrees apart? Have you remover the cover and checked the belt and timing pulleys?checked

No I don’t, I just like to only fix problems I see, not what I think might need to be done. My time and experience cost money and I don’t do things that I must charge the customer for if I don’t feel it’s needed.

If your dealer can’t help you figure that out, with a wiring diagram, then I would do one of there things. I would ask him if you replaced both with two grey switches, would he allow you to return them? If two grey switches don’t work, I would be contacting Simplicity for a wiring diagram...

Slomo. Do you realize that you most remove the entire axle/tranny assembly to properly do what you are saying? The OP can do what he wants, just saying I wouldn’t worry about it.

First, both the 1693915 and 1693916 use the same switches. That being said you still have a problem, they both contain two switches, a black one and a grey one. You are going to have to do some detective work to find out which one you will need, as they are not interchangeable. Also, my info...

There was a recall on some models of Z-turns about three years ago, depending on when it was purchased. The dealership where you purchased the unit was supposed to contact you to replace the idler pulley system. Contact your dealer to find out if your unit was included in the recall and if so...

On that model the more likely problem is the drive gear on the axle needs to be removed and all parts need to be cleaned. For the inexperienced DIY guy I will say this is not a hard job, but if you’re not very careful and observant, you will find yourself in a quandary when trying to...

If that tranny is the one I think it is, the lube will outlast the tranny. Cost of removing the old lube, cleaning and repacking is not worth it, even for a DIY guy. The only place you need a little lube is between the bevel gear and the pinion gear, which you can’t even see because it is...

Cleaning and repacking the tranny is not going to matter, unless you want to think it will solve the problem. To me that lube looks fine.

You are going to have to post the model and serial numbers for the unit so we have some idea of the tranny you have. That tranny is used on many different models and not all are the same. Second, take the wheels off and post a picture of the wheel gear and picture of the drive gear. Willing...

This might save you doing a couple of long searches. Kohler manual; https://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Kohler-Service-and-Repair-Manuals/Kohler-Service-Repair-Manual-Command-CH18-CH20-CH22-CH23-CH25-CH26.pdf Toro manual; https://www.toro.com/getpub/32425

Take a look at this manual, might give you some help. https://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Kohler-Service-and-Repair-Manuals/Kohler-Service-Repair-Manual-Courage-SV470-SV480-SV530-SV540-SV590-SV600.pdf

Having worked in Toro dealerships since the early 80’s I’ve see many DIY guys attempt to do this and have not seen one that will last more than a month. If I remember right, was told they are hot pressed in and when you remove them there is not enough material left to hold another type of...

This link just takes you back to this thread??? Could you have posted the wrong link or just want people to go in circles?

“ Think most engine manuals say like every 5 years, pull head and clean valves.” This is something I’ve never seen or heard. Personally I wouldn’t do this on my own equipment or charge a customer for unless there is some other reason to pull the head.

Glad to hear you got it worked out, most posters never let us know if we help or not.

Setting the float on the lean side will make for harder starting. Been sett it my way for the last 15 years and customers love the easier starting. I’ve never had a problem with any carbon buildup, as long as I don’t go too rich.

I’d take a serious look at Kubota and Toro.

First, as I’ve said before, I’ve never trusted aftermarket carbs from Amazon or fleabay. Most times they won‘t solve the problem because they are not the exact one for your engine, just one for multiple engines. I suspect your problem on the original carb is an improperly set float height. I...

Reported

There was a spammer who got banned and they pulled all his posts. That’s why you have email but no alerts, as when the posts are removed so are alerts.

It takes all of us to report these guys as soon as we see them. Plus reply to the thread, letting others know, especially if it is multiple posts or threads.

There are two guys out there, multiple posts, reported both of them.

By your model number, either 1995 or 1996.

Next time it shuts down, check for spark. If no spark then I would put my $$$$ on a bad coil. Either a hot open or hot short when engine warms up. Remedy, replace coil.

Attaches to the throttle. If there is no small hole next to where part #14 goes, then in the same hole as part #14.

Reported this guy multiple posts, spammer

Reported this guy multiple posts, spammer

Reported multiple threads as spam

Looks like it’s working again. Thank you admin for repairing the problem.

Sorry, but my pad would not expand it. Wiring diagram in this manual. https://apps.mtdproducts.com/manuals/769-09472.pdf

Think he gone, it’s a nine year old thread.

You cut off the most important part of the model number, first few things digits.

0 VDC in step 3 tells me you are not getting any current going from the key switch to your solenoid. You are now going to have to trace the wire from the switch to the solenoid, through the safety switches to find out where you’re losing power. If you post the tractors model number, from under...

You may have found my procedure, but didn’t use it. I use voltage readings to diagnose electrical problems, while others use different methods. If you give me readings I might be able to help you. We have no idea where a blue wire would go, as the is no standard wiring color code for these...

Well they are about a dozen different causes to this problem. Next there are about 100 different models used on push mowers, depending on the model of mower and year it was built. If you multiply number of models of mowers, time the number of engine models, times the number of causes, our...

Personally I have learned to never trust the aftermarket carbs on Amazon. Most times they are advertised to fit many engines, which they do, but because they are made to fit multiple engines the jetting doesn’t match the OEM carbs. I’m still inclined to go back to clean and rebuild the...

Most likely it will have a 684352 carb on it. Those engines were used on many different Lawn Boy models and parts are readily available through a Toro dealer. Try Lawn Boy model 5254 and see if the parts look familiar.

Many auto parts stores have loaner programs where for a refundable deposit you can can get an impact gun. Why buy one if you are going to only use it once a year.

I’m guessing the carb needle valve is not closing the and you are getting an extremely rich running condition, plus if you pull the dipstick you will smell fuel which will indicate contamination in the oil. Solution, clean and rebuild the carb, plus change the oil.

Could be the coil, but I would be pulling the carb and give it a good cleaning and rebuild.

Next time it happens loosen the gas cap when it starts chugging. We want to rule out a bad cap that is not venting properly. If it clears up replace the cap.

10420 was a 1994 model. R7268 was a 1979 model. For anyone else looking to decode Lawn Boy model and serial numbers, this may help you out. https://lookup3.toro.com/ttcGateway/acrobat/manuals/lball07.pdf

Got 6 this morning.

Sorry, first cup of cup didn’t work yet. Had macular hole eye surgery yesterday and working with one eye.

To the best of my knowledge, the valve seats on Briggs engines are not designed to be removed. Personally I never replaced one. I have staked them back in, as a last resort, when they have popped out due to overheating. Normally replace the head, on OHV, or short block on L-head engines.

Post the model and serial numbers and we should be able to help you.

You want a narrower search add the word throttle to “cable connection swivel”

Simple answer, Lawnboy.

Muhammad, any suggestions?

You do have a K46 tranny. Here is what Tuff Torq has for an oil change on K46 units. https://www.tufftorq.com/tuff-torq-transaxle-oil-service/

Do a google search for “cable connection swivel”. You should be able to find the size you need.

Can you post the model and serial numbers from the ID tag for the unit you have? We may be able to find your unit.

The part you are asking about is the interlock module. I’m thinking the wires that are disconnected go to the safety switch, part number 13 on the same picture.

Ok, I’m getting a little better picture of what is going on here, definitely a rewire to by pass safety switches. Here’s what I would do, how you wish to proceed will be up to you. I’ve attached a parts catalog which should help you locate parts on the unit...

How about a carb couple of pictures of the entire unit and where the throttle control on the engine. I need to see how it has been rewired.

Then someone has rewired this unit. We’ll need some pictures of the wires, where they are hanging, the throttle control assembly, and the areas where wires are coming from. Remember we cannot see what you have and must help you locate your shutoff switch.

I’m guessing you have a key switch which is used to kill the engine. On that switch there should be a black and red wire attached. If they are not there, that’s where those two wires you have hanging go. If they are attached, then you need to find the module, as that is where they come from...

This service manual has a wiring diagram which should help you out. https://www.toro.com/getpub/30747

Before you start throwing more parts at it, have you done any volt Drop tests as I recommended earlier? Troubleshooting procedures would indicate which parts may be bad. Tapping on parts are not the best way to diagnose a problem. They only give you an indication of which circuit is causing...

Without absolute numbers from the donor engine it will be extremely hard to give you a definitive answer. We would only be guessing whether the used flywheel and stator you posted will work with each other. I don’t know how much $$$$ you are thinking of putting into this project, but it could...

Trying to find good pictures to help you. I found this video which may help until I get lucky.

Anyone else not receiving email notifications? I have not had any for the last two and a half weeks. Nothing has been changed in my settings and I’ve checked my junk and spam mailboxes. Rivets

To the best of my knowledge on any 4 post solenoid, one of the small terminals must be grounded and they do not ground through the mounting bolts. Second, you state that there is no dirt or corrosion on the frame or coil. Where grounds are connected I’ve always removed the paint also, which...

I’ve reread this thread and see you’ve only adjusted the high speed mixture. Try this carb adjusting procedure, which I’ve used for years And still use it anytime I come across a carb with both idle and high speed adjustments. Once completed reset the governed top speed at 3250 RPMs. Just...

It will depend on the size of charging system you have on your engine. This manual will probably help you more than I can on this forum. You’ll have to do some math and an understanding how electrical systems work...

Ditto IL on Tecumseh engines. I would take almost everyone of their models today, if they were available over 90% of the others on the market today.

Blaine you are correct, that’s why I suggest voltage tests and bad connections.

To me unless you are living in the north where temperatures can get cold, a battery with low CCA shouldn’t be a problem. You might have a charging system that is not working properly, shorting the life of the battery. This will reduce the voltage available at starting, which will show up as...

Even though I’d normally recommend anything in the Simplicity line, in this case I like the JD with the Kawasaki engine better.

Can you prove model and serial numbers for the unit? As COVID has reduced the ESP function for many of the techs on this forum, we need a little help from you to solve your problem.

Can you post a picture of the handle, so we can identify the type of drive you have? Top and underneath.

Two things come to mind very quickly. Belt is not on properly or drive cable is too tight. Take a look at this manual and identify which tranny system you have. If you can’t figure it out post back with pictures of what you have so we can identify your unit. https://www.toro.com/getpub/22446

A good dealership will have checked each of the items you listed.

I’ll bet that if you look on the engine ID tag you’ll find that the engines are different. You’ll also find that the linkage is different.

I’m betting that the ground wire going from the solenoid to the chassis is loose or dirty. Trace this wire and clean and tighten the connection make sure you have a good ground.

To me you‘re over thinking it. Labels are cheap, doesn’t mean anything to me. That model Tecumseh engine had dozens of different uses and different control setups. Better to look on the type of equipment that engine was mounted on. That will indicate which control assembly was used.

Don’t see anything missing in the first picture. You have two totally different throttle controls. First picture is a constant throttle control assembly, no speed adjustment. The second picture shows a speed control assembly, which is setup to change engine speed. Different engines use di...

Engine model number for this unit is 104M020010F1. First thing I would check, the next time it happens, is to remove the air filter cover and look to see if the choke is open when hot. I’ve seen where the choke control spring is missing and the choke closes, causing a very rich fuel mixture...

That spring is the governor control spring, which will be hooked between the governor arm and the control bracket. Look at this illustration part number 209. https://www.partstree.com/models/21b807-0239-e1-briggs-stratton-vertical-engine/controls-fuel-supply-governor-spring-4/

Timecutter is not in the same ballpark as the big box store units. It would greatly surprise me that you won’t be happy with your unit.

Nothing in what he has posted would indicate a bad tranny. Seen this many times on the steel deck setups.

Don’t know what you see, but he asked about throttle linkage and the way he has it connected he has it connected correctly. Your purple circle is the linkage connecting the air vane to the throttle plate. The spring is connected to the loop in the linkage. Yes, it could use a good cleaning...

My first question is when was the last time the belt was replaced? If more than 3 years ago it could be worn, allowing it to loosen and creating your problem. It may look good, but my experience is you can’t trust your eyes. Next time you use it, when it starts to slow down stop the unit and...

First off, that U shaped linkage (choke control) in photo #3 is in the wrong place. Remove it from the slot and squeeze it together. It should go through the slot from left to right. It just rests in that slot. When you push the throttle control to the choke position, you should see an arm...

Being a Toro guy I would take a serious look at the Toro Timecutter line. All they units are fairly decent units. Best thing I can tell you is give each one a good test drive, talk to the dealer about why his is better than the others. Get down to two, then test drive each again. In the end go...

To us old farts, it’s called the book of COMMON SENSE.

Did you buy this unit from a dealer or Big Box store? Sounds to me like it has not be setup properly. If you bought it from a dealer I would be taking back and have them set it up properly and find the cause of excessive vibration. This should cost you nothing. If purchased at a Big Box...

My question to them is why do you need proof. Most small engine warranties last from 2-5 years. Only thing that comes to mind for someone to ask for oil change proof in that time frame is a major internal failure. An experienced and knowledgeable service tech should be able to diagnose the...

With a mower of that age I suspect that the bearing HOC is worn, allowing the axle gear to move away from the wheel gear. Remove the wheel and grab the gear. If I moves around you’ve found the problem. Section 6 of this manual we be of a great help to diagnosis problem...

The reason your cables are getting hot in a short period of time is that there must be a high resistance somewhere in the starting circuit. Before I start blaming components I would be checking the simple things, like connections first. It that doesn’t solve the problem then I would be looking...

I didn’t say it was used incorrectly, I said it wasn’t designed for that purpose. As I also said, to each his own, do as you please.

Just because people need to know that you using it that way doesn’t make it right. As I said to each his own, I can’t control how you use your equipment, but I can let others know why certain things were designed certain ways. Read my signature!