Recent content by Rivets

Those “jet cleaners” are actually acetylene torch tip cleaners, which are files and from my experience wouldn’t recommend using on a carb fuel jet. They will enlarge the jet size. Just my opinion.

Ron, if we knew what the piece of equipment was it makes it a lot easier to provide help. I’m a thousand miles away and have no clue what the OP has in front of him. The guy may be a newbie, but that doesn’t mean he can’t help us out so we can help him. I don’t see you offering up a...

I would be running 10-W30 in those operating conditions.

Bad electrical connections, either dirty or loose. Start by checking every connection from the battery to the starter. Don’t know which model Chevy you have, nor which engine was put in, maybe someone dropped in a Hemi, but if you do need more help, make sure you tell us the model and serial...

As Slomo stated I to think you purchased this unit at a Big Box store. They put in old fuel and over filled the crankcase with oil, twice. Unless You saw them take them out of the box and set them up, I’ll also bet both those units were returned units they wanted to get out the door. Reason I...

Check your oil level and smell it. I’ll bet it is over the full mark and smells like gas. Cause is the float needle is not seating properly, allowing gas to drain directly full the tank, through the carb and into the cylinder and crankcase. Remedy, remove the carb, clean and rebuild with a new...

Check your oil level and smell it. I’ll bet it is over the full mark and smells like gas. Cause is the float needle is not seating properly, allowing gas to drain directly full the tank, through the carb and into the cylinder and crankcase. Remedy, remove the carb, clean and rebuild with a...

Thank you for reopening this thread. This post is for all the DIY guys out there. Which brand of plug you use in your equipment is a 99% personal choice. If one brand works better for you, go with it. Experienced techs do use different brands of plugs on different pieces of equipment because...

Remove the carb and check to see if there is fuel in the float bowl. While you have it off check to make sure the float level is set properly.

Born2Mow, you are partially correct, that screw has passage ways in it. But after cleaning it you should fully seat it back into the carb body. Do not back it out after seating, there is no adjustment. Very similar to the idle jet and the old plastic body Lawn Boy carbs.

.10mm is the correct valve clearance according to the service manual. Here’s a service manual for your engine, if you don’t have one. I would be rechecking the flywheel key by removing the flywheel to inspect. Even a slight cut will affect timing, plus reset the armature air gap...

Plus float level needs to be adjusted.

Please post the Spec number for your H35, as there were a few different carbs used on that engine.

You are correct air is sucked in to help cool the motor. That’s a common problem with that style of mower. Only thing I’ve seen to help prevent the problem is some DIY guys will take a large round foam pre air filter to stretch over the opening. They must remember to keep it clean.

Why not use the Gravely/Ariens subcategory?

Please look at the carbs in the manual so you can identify “the twisty thing”. This will give us a better picture of what you are talking about. Second, that screw on the side of the carb is the idle jet. Make sure the passages are open.

Well I guess I lose this one, as I’m definitely not close to the smartest guy on this forum. But I did stay at a Holiday Inn a couple of years ago, if anyone remembers that commercial.

You probably flooded it now, let it sir for awhile and try starting with no choke.

Take a side cutters and grab the key with the cutting edge flat against the spindle shaft. Now pry up on the key, should pop out. No, you will not ruin the key doing it this way.

Could be ignition, but I’m thinking that if you have not replaced the carb to tank diaphragm and gasket I would be starting there.

Couple of ideas, but because I’m not psychic I don’t know the make and model of your engine and I really hate guessing. Best guess at this point is no spark.

Three things could possibly be causing your overheating problem. More than likely a lean running condition on that cylinder, but could possibly be cooling fins covered in dirt, internal timi problems or even a plugged muffler. If it came into the shop this is what I would be doing, in this...

You can say “I’m just kidding” after I called you out, but you can’t are back what you said. Good repair shops and techs are hard to find and when people who think they have all the answers, they make it difficult for us to help people who put their trust in us. With the attitude you portrayed...

Was it broke all along or did it just break?

Sir Mowzalot you can service your equipment with what ever parts and lubes you want, because if they work for you keep using them, but I do take exception with your comment and attitude about service techs and dealers. Your misconception as why they use certain products is totally off base...

Here is a service manual for your engine. https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B6NaqjIxWV1ycG8wd0s3Z2Q2X00. If you go to this website, with this model number 9B902-1652-E2, you should be able to find the parts you need...

If you do a google search “793152 crankshaft” I think you will find that they are available with a little searching.

If you would have posted your thread on the equipment purchasing sub title with a title like, “ Need help in deciding which Brand to purchase “ and then list your requirements it would have made it easier on everyone. You then would see in one thread all the different replies. You didn’t make a...

Camshaft number I come up with is 691998 and is available.

If it is hydraulic actuated you may have to loosen a fitting and manually raise the deck, then tighten the connections to hole it in place. Call the dealer and ask them how they would handle the problem of transporting the unit.

There is no need to post the same thread 4 times in less than 24 hours. It will not get you an answer any faster, but will definitely get confusing. Did you even read the reply I posted yesterday?

First of all, please DO NOT post two threads on the same problem. It will not get you to a solution any faster and will only confuse things. When you cleaned the carb, did you check and adjust the float level? If you did then I would use this procedure to adjust the carb. Adjusting a carb...

New unit, couple of weeks old, no brainer. This unit is under warranty and you should be looking to your dealer for help. Why possibly losing your warranty by trying to fix it yourself.

To each his own, its one of the best out there today.

Have read through your post twice, I would definitely stay away from the Cub and Husky. Both are low end residential units, even at the high priced range. From my experience and your description I would say each would last 3-5 years. I would stay away from anything made by MTD or Husqvarna...

Many possibilities. Air leak in crankcase, rings not sealing cylinder, air leak between carb and block, float level too low, not getting fuel in carb.

Spray some carb cleaner into the spark plug hole and see if it will fire. If it fires you’re probably not getting fuel from the carb to the cylinder. Did you install new crankshaft seals? If you don’t have this manual it may help with timing...

Understand, just couldn’t see why it would be that far off.

I’ve worked for Toro dealers since the early 80’s and I’ll say this. “GET A NEW DEALER”. The guy you are dealing with is part of the 1% of dealers who shouldn’t be allowed to sell anything. If there is no other dealer near by call Toro customer support 1-888-384-9939 and calmly explain your...

Please post the serial number for your 20334. Depending on the year of manufacture, there where different wheel assemblies used, with different wheel gears and drive gears.

Nine years old, I’m betting the bearing hocs are worn, allowing the axle to twist out of alignment. This will lock up the wheels.

If you started on a level surface with properly inflated tires, then set it on equal sized blocks, it should be level??? Don’t understand why it wouldn’t be??

Here I go again! How about you supplying us with the model and serial numbers for your unit off the ID tags. It would sure help us help you. That way it will save us time and we really, really , really hate taking stabs in the dark as to if we are giving you good suggestions.

If the black and silver ID tag, can you post the numbers off it? If not a couple of pictures may help us identify what goes with it and maybe get you more info.

I’m confused, can you explain what you did?

Sounds to be like you are going to have to remove the carb and give it a good cleaning and rebuilding. I’m assuming this is a Tecumseh engine built for European use, very similar to an American model TVS. This manual may be of some help. You’ll need to figure out which carb most matches yours...

Have you thought about going to your local auto parts store and asking about their tool loaning program? Many of them just ask for a deposit, which is returned when you bring back the tool.

I think you answered your own question as to how to proceed. 60” flail mower with 16 hp engine, definitely way under powered. Personally I don’t think repowering your unit will give you the results you want.

When was the last time the belt was changed? Have you checked to see if the tensioner arm moves when turning left?

Don’t know of any Lawn Boy mower that was equipped with a Kawasaki engine. Maybe a Suzuki, but not Kawasaki.

That makes a difference. I’ve edited my previous posting for this different unit.

I hope the last two posters realize that this thread is 4 years old. I think the job has been completed by now.

Before you start replacing parts I would be checking to see if the fuel pickup line is in good condition. If the unit is more than 3 years old and been store during the off season with fuel in it, good possibility that it is broken or cracked.

Because you can’t provide us with model numbers and Bad Boy identifies it’s models by numbers, which are located under the seat on the SIN tag, not names I’m going to assume that you have a model 2300. To get to the starting point I would do the following, but that will be up to you. 1. You...

Could be, but I think customer knowledge and education is more than likely the cause. When trying to fix the problem remember, “You can’t fix STUPID”.

Bad Boy has different ways of attaching their decks to the frame, so we are going to need to know which year your unit was built. Also, they are the only manufacturer who says to measure the deck height, not blade tip height when leveling the deck. I never use this method, as it will not take...

To my know Lawn Boy never sold a push mower equipped with a Kawasaki engine. If I’m wrong someone will jump my butt very quickly.

No, trip the mower on its side, carb up and you’ll be able to eee what I’m talking about.

Transmission is on the back left corner, so I’m guessing the idler pulley or belt retainer is where the cause is.

Slomo, he knows it’s not the head. Just had the head off thinking he had a blown head gasket. Now he doing it right by waiting for a new gasket and then completing a carb cleaning and rebuild.

That’s the reason we asked for carb number. With that info we would have been able to look up the primer part number for you. Glad to hear you’ve solved the problem.

NO WARRANTY?? I don’t understand, as the Timemaster has a three year warranty, it doesn’t matter if it is a display unit or you opened the box and assembled it yourself. Please explain. That being said, tow things to check. First, the blades are timed, so tip the unit on edge with carb up...

What I posted still applies.

It’s under warranty, don’t do anything but have it serviced by your dealer. Why void a warra by trying to repair it yourself.

Sounds like the float needle didn’t shut off the fuel entering the carb. Excess fuel ran through the carb into the cylinder, into the crankcase. On startup this mixture was being burned off. Time to do an oil change and have the carb cleaned and rebuilt.

Really don’t see why it is that difficult to change the oil. I’ll agree that the drain hose can be a pain, but I’ve not had The problem of breakage as described in this posts, plus seeing you didn’t disagree that other things I figured were on your bill, there’s no reason to complain about Toro...

Why are you blaming Tor for an oil change bill. If you just had the oil changed that would be a little high. Did they do anything else? Spring tuneup, plugs, oil, oil filter, air filter, plus sharpen the blades? What is their labor rate, $80.00/hr. Let’s see, parts $40.00, blade sharpening...

Engine is called a Motorwheel, built for that type of vehicle And motor bicycles. Actually saw a bicycle model at an antique power auction. Google search “ Briggs Motorwheel” for more info.

One bad egg doesn’t mean the hen house is rotten. Plus, how do you know it was the plug, could easily have been a loose connection. We’ll never know.

First of all it would be better for you to start a new thread than reviving a 3 year old one. Will get very confusing. Did you check the oil level. Sounds like you may have gas in the crankcase.

I just use plumbers pipe tape, white not yellow.

That’s why I asked for the numbers off the carb, so I could look up individual parts.

Google search “adjusting valves on Briggs engine”, should find help. If you can’t post back and I’ll try to explain.

I use aluminum for intake and steel for exhaust, but there are those who disagree with me. I suspect that your valve clearance changed on that valve causing it to jump and bend. I would be also checking and setting the clearance on both valves on the other side.

Looks to me like you have a bent push rod. Remove it and roll it on a very flat surface, will tell you very quickly if bent.

Picture if you can please.

Need to reset valve clearance. First check to see if the valve guides are sticking out close to the same length. Not that the guide on that one has migrated up.

Check the valve clearances on the right side. If they are within specs, which I doubt, I would then check for leaks between the carb and head. Either bad gaskets or cracked manifold. No problem there, blown head gasket. I’m assuming that you have already checked for spark after changing the...

Carb # 753-05908. Roughly $40.00. For individual part numbers we will need carb manufacturer and number. You will find these on the carb.

You are going to have to remove the tank and carb, as a unit, very carefully without tipping. Then remove the carb from the tank, again without tipping. The reason I want you to do this is to check to see if you have fuel in the small auxiliary tank inside the main fuel tank. No fuel in the...

Been there done that, easy fix. Clamp a Vise-Grip pliers on the pipe as tight as you can. If you have an impact wrench give it a couple of quick shots, should come loose. No impact, breaker bar with a socket and steady pressure normally will do the job. When I reinstall the cap, I always use...

Actually just got done bringing one back to life18 months ago. I to know how long it takes to sharpen those Y-blades. Two things we learned on a piece of ground very similar to what you have. First, you must have a tractor which is strong enough and the PTO shaft turns fast enough to handle a...

The only thing I could find about your unit is that it’s drive belt is 1/2” X 29”.

Section 5 of this manual should answer most of your questions. https://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Kohler-Service-and-Repair-Manuals/Kohler-Service-Repair-Manual-Command-CV11-CV12.5-CV13-CV14-CV15-CV16-CV460-CV465-CV490-CV495.pdf

Bert, you didn’t catch that this is a 2-cycle hand blower.

This is an older service manual, but it might be of some help. If you have more questions post back, but make sure you include your model and serial numbers so we know exactly which unit you have. https://images.homedepot-static.com/catalog/pdfImages/aa/aa2f51f7-2e14-44fc-b748-a0d061570e3e.pdf

Here I go again, if you would supply us with the model and serial numbers of the unit we might be able to help you out. We really really hate making guesses.

Here are two manuals which will help you understand how the carb works. Maybe they will help you. https://www.barrettsmallengine.com/manual/tecumsehlheadmanual.pdf http://www.tecumsehcarburetorguide.com/how-to-guide/

I’ll say it again carb needs a good cleaning or replacing.

Second one, inside the loop.

Slomo, sorry to tell you “Like stupid somethings can’t be fixed”

You’re really cute also. I asked you five things to give us and you only gave us ONE, model number 51988. For all others looking at this post, he is talking about a Toro PowerVac Gas PoweredBlower. The serial number he gave us is actually the part number for an ignition module. Because you...

By “won’t turn over” what do you mean? Are you able to check for spark? Are yo able to check if the carb is getting fuel? Are you able to determine if fuel is getting from the carb to the cylinder? We need to have more info from you, because we lost our ESP due to COVID and are not standing...

Set the plug gap at .080”. If you lose all spark the coil is going bad and I would replace it.

I suggest you narrow your search down to these three brands. Honda, Snapper and Toro. The other brands you listed are all push mowers built by MTD which means low end consumer brands, and I would never recommend any of them. As stated, test each brand and then go with your gut, not price.

I recommend you call Scag customer service at this number, (844) 491-4859. Having dealt with Scag over the years, I have found their customer service very helpful. Make sure you have your model and serial numbers available when you call.

I would also use the 465-043 when ever available, for the reason you stated.

I use micro drills also, with a pin vice, but I have 20+ years of practice. Yes, I’ve had to learn how from my mistakes, plus make sure I have good sharp industrial bits, which cost me $5.00 each.

Three areas which may cause your problem. Greasing front wheel axles where they go throng the front axle. Greasing the steering gear bearing/bushing on the end of the steering shaft, plus sector gear bushing. Improper tire pressure, should be 20 psi.

I would never, never, ever use tip cleaners to open jets on carbs. They are files and could very easily enlarge the jet creating problems. Use a piece of solid wire, (tag wire, piano wire, guitar wire) to open them after soaking.

Ask Scrub where they’re located.

Remove the spark plug and see if it will spin over. Then pull the dip stick and check the oil level. Report back with your findings and include engine numbers.

No alarms on Vanguard engines.

I hope you didn’t reverse the battery cables??? If you jumped the two large cables on the solenoid and get nothing, I’m guessing one of these is bad. Your cables are dirty or loose, bad battery or bad starter.

There are three reasons that the blade will not engage. 1. Broken belt. 2. Belt tensioner cable not adjusted properly. 3. Broken cable or cable controller under the handle. This manual is much easier to follow than my instructions would be. If you have more questions post back...

Maybe this manual will help you out. https://bsintek.basco.com/BriggsDocumentDisplay/default.aspx?filename=ifDzFO9buG8sF8Dyd6lEP5NRQpe

That jet is removable. After you remove it the nozzle will come out, which will probably be clogged. Sometimes they just drop out, other times you need to work at getting them out.

Underneath, unless you remove the engine, which doesn’t help much.

On those older engines I have found that armature air gap is critical. Try setting the gap to .008”. Second I’m assuming that you have not installed the coil upside down?

Most often they just break down, but they can go gradually. How about supplying us with the model and serial numbers from the engines. COVID has killed our psychic powers and we have no idea of which engine you are talking about.

Check the condition of the belt, probably needs replacing.

Check the belt, which may have come off or got pinched when you hit something.

I’ve reread this thread and have a couple of stupid questions. Do you have the part numbers for both the replacement valves and cam? Do you have the old valves? Reason I ask is that something doesn’t look right in the pics. On the loose valve the keeper looks like it is sitting almost flush...

To me it looks like a model 22195, and I’m guessing built in 2007-09.

Check to see if the tensioner arm is moving freely and both idler pulleys are not worn.

First, the next time it happens check for spark immediately. You paid $35 for a pair of coils that cost $65 each. At that price I’ll bet they are cheap knockoffs and not OEM. Could be your problem.

Check the tensioner arm on the deck, may not be traveling full, keeping tension on the belt. Second, when was the belt last changed, may be worn? When you report back include you’re units model and serial numbers so we have an idea of the unit you are talking about.

From your post I guess what I taught for 30 years was all wrong. You keep on making assumptions about the internal workings of the engine, which my experience has taught me will get me in trouble. I would rather inspect, test and verify before stating this or that is fine. That being said...

If you don’t find water in the fuel, you may have a head gasket that is leaking. You may not notice coolant being burned off while running, but it will enter the combustion chamber after shut down and burns off at startup. You’ll need to do a leak down test to verify the problem.

White indicates water, blue indicates oil, and black indicates fuel.

White smoke is an indicator of water. In a glass jar drain about 2” of gas from the tank. Let it sit for 30 seconds and look for water at the bottom of the jar. Any water means you should drain the tank, let it dry, put in fresh fuel. Also, drain the float bowl.

You can do want you want, but that big of a difference in valve clearance is not right. It means that the amount of time fuel is allowed to enter the cylinder and exhaust gases to get out is vastly reduced. This means that less raw fuel will be allowed to enter the cylinder, causing the engine...

Post the engine numbers and we should be able to find the carb you need.

Slomo, that’s a model number, now need type and zip code.

I didn’t expect you guys picking on me??? Now I need your addresses.

This belt should work. https://www.chalmersindustries.com/product-p/97133ma.htm

Check to see it the valve guide has moved up, not allowing you to adjust the valve clearance. Here is a service manual that may be of some help. https://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Kawasaki-Service-and-Repair-Manuals/FD620D-FD661D-KAWASAKI-SERVICE-REPAIR-MANUAL.pdf

Just reread this entire thread and something caught my eye. Your differences in valve clearances, hot vs. cold, are contributing to the problem. When they are hot they will not open enough to get the proper amount of fuel into the cylinder. That amount of difference is most likely caused by...

Guess I got lucky, thank you for letting us know that you got it fixed.

No insulators. Magnet pass coil induces a spark? Yes.

First of all, check to see if the hydro release lever is not in the wrong position. Second check the belt for proper tension. This manual may be of some help. https://images.homedepot-static.com/catalog/pdfImages/aa/aa2f51f7-2e14-44fc-b748-a0d061570e3e.pdf

Idle circuit in the carb is plugged. You can try giving the carb a good cleaning, but at the cost of today’s Honda carbs it might be cheaper to replace the carb. Pressure washers normally sit for long periods between use, so future solution is to never allow old fuel to sit in the carb for...

Scrub is correct. Governor is used to control engine speed and has nothing to do with starting.

You might want to have your torque wrench tested and checked.

What does measuring resistance of a plug tell you, some resistance, open or solid? A little carbon cani distort the readings and some plugs use a small gap internally to act as resistance. When you are charging a customer by the hour why do it? Replace and recycle, go for it, but I still say...

I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again, E-bay is the hero of the seller, bane of the buyer. 99% of the time I buy OEM. Most times it costs less in the long run.

Back in 88 Murray was building their own units.

Flywheel being seized and bad starter are two very different problems. To my experience a seized flywheel would not create a whining sound. You need to start over and see what the real problem is. Finding out if you have a tight engine is where you need to start. If the engine is tight, no...

Sorry to tell you this, but you’re going to have a difficult time finding a good used deck for a 33 year old unit. Your best bet will be to contact every dealership within a 100 miles of your location and let them know your needs. Murray decks were about the cheapest decks ever made and were...

Coiled wire inside the plug boot will move around and should be no problem as long as you are getting spark. Blue spark is hotter than an orange or yellow spark which is good. Checking resistance of a spark plug is useless, don’t waste your time.

Aimme, you are overthinking everything, and assuming things about electrical troubleshooting on small tractors which is getting you deeper in trouble. I’ve been following this thread and agree with Bert’s last post. You need to go back to post #5 and start over. Don’t ASSUME anything and...

Have you checked to see if the float level is correct? High float level may be your problem, especially on a non OEM carb.

Loosen the gas cap the next time it happens, leave it loose, and see if that solves the problem. If it does, vent on the cap is plugged, replace the cap.

Sounds like a job well done, but I suggest you do one more thing. Check and level the deck.

More questions than answers. As Star said, double check the model numbers. 6hp engine will normally not have an oil filter? 13hp engine will normally not have a carb with a primer bulb? What was the part number for the new carbs and were they OEM? You say it is running rich, but not blowing...

We need to know exactly which tranny you have. You will need to post all engine numbers off the ID tag so we know what you are talking about. Guessing is the last thing service techs want to do.

We need all engine numbers before we can advise you how to proceed.

You need to check two things first, then report back. The next time it quits, check for spark. If it has spark spray some carb cleaner directly into the carb air horn and see if it will fire. No spark you have an ignition problem. If it fires with carb cleaner, you have a fuel problem. When...

If there are no model numbers or serial numbers on the units, post the engine numbers. Someone might be able to check which unit they were installed in. That is if no one has swapped engines.

Decks should be leveled side to side first, then front to back.

My guess is that your belt needs replacing, and/or the belt tensioner arm is froze.

I can think of three things which could cause this condition. First, when you installed the piston, did you make sure the ring gaps were 120 degrees apart? Second, breather may be plugged. Third, most common cause is a blown head gasket. Did you check the head to make sure it wasn’t warpped...

Those two ”nubs” are the connection points for the transmission switch.