Recent content by Rivets

At that age it could be just a bad O-ring at the bottom of the dipstick tube. Simple fix. If you don’t feel confident to tackle it yourself, my recommendation is to go to a Toro dealer and ask for an estimate. Tell them if the fix is within your budget to fix it or you will be purchasing new...

It’s an 8 year old thread, so we’ll never know what happened.

Look on the intake manifold tube, is there an O-ring seal still on the tube? If the orange seal is the same size as the tube, you can replace the one that is on there now or just install the orange O-ring. Same on the early models of this engine did not use a seal.

MowMan you better get your eyes checked, the Broadmoor which we are talking about in this thread has 900 hours on it. it’s a 1997 model and he posted in 2012, making it 15 years old. He never came back telling if the problem was solved. He changes tranny fluid, but not belt and says pulleys...

Don’t have to worry about where you dump it out and a lot cheaper. Plus you do it at the end of the day to clean your hands.

The way I clean these tanks is as follows. 1. Drop about 10 clean 1/4-20 nuts into the tank. 2. Add about a cup of water with dish detergent Into the tank. 3. Shake well for about 30 seconds. 4. Dump out the tank. Count the nuts. 5. Add about a cup of hot water into the tank and shake...

This manual should help you out. https://lookup3.toro.com/ttcGateway/acrobat/manuals/lball.html

Here is another procedure to follow if you need it. Let us know what you find. Electrical* problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things. 1. * How well you understand basic electricity. 2. *What tools you have and know how to use. 3. *How well you follow directions. 4...

Part number is on the other page.

22” steel deck.

Yet another example of today’s throw away attitude. Buy cheap, run it, buy another cheap one.

Now that you explained the situation, I would have done the same thing. I thought it was some guy who didn’t understand what maintainance is.

Have you checked the sector gear and bushing?

Take a look at page 25&34 of this parts book. You will see that the shaft has a bushing on top and goes through a tube which is part of the hand controls group. If this tube has twisted or out of alignment, it could be causing the problem. Also, check the steering sector gear and bushing, If...

Did the guy offer to pay anything for your time or parts? If not I would add him to my list of “Don’t bother coming back”. I’ll also bet the air filter is either new or looks worse than the cylinder.

I have absolutely no idea of what you are talking about. You need to post the model and serial numbers for the unit and engine so we have a better picture of your unit. Also. Include a better description of your problem. Remember the members on this forum are located all over the world and...

I would suspect that the spindle he was talking about is on the deck. Post the model and serial numbers for the unit so we know what you are talking about.

Pretty hard to bend that large bracket and deck, but anything is possible. Because the tranny is closer to the left wheel (where the belt tension is) I’m still leaning toward a worn bearing, bearing hoc and bushing on that side. Any or all of these is possible, but I’m not there to see what...

If you are going to get a unit which you can use both heads on, do yourself a favor. First, make sure it is a straight shaft unit. Second, stick to one of the major brands. Failure to do both of these will give you a migraine in less than a year.

Toro switched to keyless drives 6 or 7 years ago. Your understanding of the keyed drive is not quite right. The only time the key disengages is when you pull back on the unit, allowing it to roll easily backwards. The belt drive system is the same on both units. I have not run into any units...

Nothing has changed on those units except for the color scheme. That’s the reason for the model number change.

Sorry, my mistake. I reread the entire thread before I posted and I combined different problems into one answer. That’s what happens when there are posts about different models in one thread. For cruise42 you have worn drive gears, which will cause the grinding sound. I have seen the pinion...

Unless it is very irritating I wouldn’t wo about it.

95% of those unit are manufactured outside the country. Due to COVID-19 shipments are few and far between. Neighbor has a bicycle shop and hasn’t seen a new bike since the end of April. I ordered a transformer in February and it came in last month. Have you tried by disinfect I’ve cleaner...

Check that you have no water in the gas.

I don’t even know how to respond to these last two posts, particularly the second last one. You must have a prett expensive JD, as I’ve never seen a delay time on a tractor under 10K.

That drive gear is worn and I would replace it. When you checked the bushing did you try moving the shaft in all directions, on both sides. You don’t want to lube those gears as lube would attract dirt causing them to wear faster.

Had my Toro with a 4-cycle Suzuki for 22 years. Got rid of it 3 years ago, due to health reasons. Gave it to a young married couple who needed a mower and it’s still going strong as I serviced it this spring.

Kraut, major mistake, never hyjack a thread. This will be very confusing and then you and the member who started the thread will both be out of luck. If you can delete your post and start a new thread. I’ll be glad to help you then, but am not going to post to different unit in the same...

You have a 2016 unit and I suspect your problem is the drive gears ans or rear wheels. Remove the wheel and take a look at the drive gear and wheel gear. I think you will find they are worn. If you don’t think they are worn please include a picture or two so we can see them. Don’t order any...

It could be a 2 or 4 cycle engine, they look very similar. Post the mowers model and serial numbers and I check what you have. The Suzuki engine was probably the best engine Toro ever put on their mowers. With proper service will out last that cast deck.

To me it sound like you have a bad battery. Remove the battery, charge over night, then take it to someone who has a load tester, not just a meter. I recommend going to your small local auto repair shop with a dozen donuts in hand. If the battery tests good, check your charging system.

Remove the spark plug and try starting the engine. If it spins over properly, you have other problems. If it spins over slowly, you either have a weak battery or dirty connections, causing resistance in the circuit. Just because the battery is charged doesn’t mean it is still a good battery.

Very seldom heat would affect a five speed transmission, they just don’t get very hot. There are a few different things that can cause a problem like you are having. Drive pulley will not stop turning, allowing the shift keys to move. Bentinite, grease, is too old and stiff to allow internal...

With the age on that transaxle, I suspect that the shift keys are worn. I’ve rebuilt many of them, but finding a parts source is getting more and more difficult. Lately I’ve used Peerless parts, as I think, but can’t prove, that they are the same. If you do any research the company is now...

From my experience, the Lawn Boy and Poulan could probably start easier if you gave it a good tune-up and clean and rebuild the carbs, sett the float level a little rich. I’ve had great luck doing this as you will get a richer air/fuel mixture, which makes for easier starting.

To my knowledge Murray does not make a bagger for their riding mowers. Only thing you can do is McGuyver an MTD bagger. If You would have provided us with this units model number, it would help both of us out.

If you post in the future please give all your info in your initial post, like telling us you are just curious if anyone knows. You didn’t provide model number until asked. You didn’t tell us you contacted MTD and got a different model number. You didn’t tell us you had a third model number...

You agree with the replies but still won’t post your trick. Got me confused?????

Ain’t going to happen around here. People won’t even go to a dealer to get replacement parts, so why would they buy equipment there. They won’t even go to a dealer to ask simple questions about their units, instead come here for help and if they don’t like the answer can bad mouth you because...

I have found no information on this model number. I did find that you contacted MTD to get info and tried using other numbers, but came up will nothing. I suggest you contact MTD again to gain the info you are looking for. Or you can empty the tank, fill it with water, then measure how much...

If you just replaced the belt, the first thing I would check is the belt routing. Make sure you don’t have it routed over the top of a belt guide instead of between the guides and pulleys.

Did you adjust the governor according to the procedure in this manual? https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B6NaqjIxWV1ybEN0LWo3azl6OUU

We need more info, like the model and serial numbers located under the seat. Snapping a picture of the tag would even be better.

As Scrub said you must verify that fuel is getting from the tank to the pump. Remove the fuel line at the pump and with the. fuel cap off, blow through the line while listening for air bubbling in the tank. If you hear air in the tank, have an assistant hold the line in a glass jar and blow...

.004” on each valve is correct.

This is as close as I can find. https://www.walker.com/hubfs/PDF/8000-13.pdf https://www.walker.com/hubfs/PDF/8000-11.pdf https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1065000/Walker-Mt.html

These there websites might help you with your decision. In my opinion, great collectors addition. https://www.reolawnmower.com/history.html https://www.mytractorforum.com/threads/1954-reo-flying-cloud-rotary-mower.1022361/ http://reoengine.us/ReoEngineList.htm

I would contact Excell Industries directly with your questions. They build the Hustler line of equipment. Have your model and serial numbers on hand when you call. This webpage has contact info. https://www.hustlerturf.com/contact

Scrub beat me to the website I was going to suggest you read. Up to date reviews. Then you can make a much better decision. Personally even though I’m a Toro guy, I would take a serious look at Kubota.

Personally I’m a Toro guy, so I guess I’m biased. I would take a serious look at the Toro Z-turns, which every would fit your budget. Especially the MyRide systems, because of the amount of time you spend on the unit.

Sounds like a blown head gasket on one cylinder.

With that amount of use the first thing I would do is change the drive belt if it hasn’t been done in the last two years. When you do so, check the tensioner idler pulleys and arm, make sure they are in good condition and moving freely. Using a residential mower commercially means you are...

With that amount of acreage I would say diesel all the way. B-series Kubota with tow behind mower.

If it turns over but will not start shouldn’t have anything to do with tranny. You need to check if you have fuel and spark, when you post back include model and serial numbers, under the seat, so we have a better idea of what you have.

That’s not how a forum works. If you have a way to do things easier, a good member will pass it along. We all can learn something new, even the techs. Just because you got only one response doesn’t mean that other didn’t look at the problem, just that they didn’t have a better reply which...

Congratulations, you have a dealer who needs all the support you can give him. Make sure you tell him that and anyone else who could use his help.

I’m sorry to say this, but I think the only one to can give you any satisfaction with this problem is the dealer. In this case I’m betting you chances of a good outcome are pretty slim.

Not one of the experienced techs on this forum has ever made a mistake, but each of us have had a lot of “learning experiences”. You might as well realize that you just joined the club.

We don’t call it a mistake, we call it a learning experience.

If you have to ask that question, you have never wo in the small engine industry. You are comparing a small engine to an HVAC system, which is like comparing males to females. My couple of years of experience have told me that it is cheaper to replace the plug when ever it may be part of the...

If you would read my post you would see I said replace the plug. Never said anything about any other parts. A good repair man knows how to read and understand the printed word. I guess you think I’m a pretty poor repairman and you are entitled to that opinion, but I disagree.

90% of people don’t own a VOM or know how to use it, so we are talking about 10% of people could benefit. Of that 10%, 9% are technicians who know that it is faster, easier and cheaper to just replace the plug. Looks like a guy looking for U-tube advertising dollars.

Every year while teaching I would see a minimum of 5 basket cases brought in by students who had a family member disassemble the engine and got lost. They became one of my best teaching tools, because if a student could get it running, they understood how an engine works, plus what not to do in...

Did they replace the head the first and/or second time? Did they replace the valve? Was it the same valve first and second time? Are you just guessing it is a valve problem the third and fourth time? Unless you give us a better picture of what is happening and what the shop did, we can’t...

DYI mechanics who fit into one of these molds. 1. I saw my uncle fix one of these a couple of years ago. 2. I don’t want to fix it right, I just want it to run. 3. I don’t listen to my wife when I need help. 4. The guy at the parts store doesn’t know what he’s talking about. 5. I refuse to...

You have a dead short. With your limited knowledge of how electrical circuits work and electrical troubleshooting, that’s as far as I’m going to go.

What did you do each time to repair?

Fig 7 shows how the shaft will rest on the governor gear when it is rotated to set the governor speed.

Just one valve or both? How do you know they are sticking? If they are sticking, my guess is either bent or worn valve stems or worn valve guide. Please post engine numbers.

First question, YES Second question, not confusing if you look carefully. One has a round top an the other has a square top.

Forget sanding the flywheel, waste of time, will not help. With the numbers I now know you have a Briggs engine, which for a DYI is not adjustable. That means if you just replaced the needle the seat probably swelled up and now the needle is closing to soon, which will result in hard starting...

Try this website. https://www.ccparts.com/cub-cadet-parts-diagrams/cub-cadet-xt1-lt42-13a6a9cs056-2020-deck-wheels/AD-4285-1191204-1189340

When you rebuilt the carb, did you replace the float needle and seat, plus check to see the the float level has been set properly? When you post back make sure you include the model and spec numbers for the engine.

Do not, I repeat, DO NOT go tapping the starter with a hammer. By doing so you are risking a great chance of breaking the magnets inside the starter, then it will be junk for sure. I can’t begin to count the number of starters I’ve had to replace because of broken magnets. I’m willing to bet...

This service manual should help you out. https://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Tecumseh-Service-and-Repair-Manuals/TECUMSEH-SERVICE--REPAIR-MANUAL-3HP-TO-11HP-4-CYCLE-L-HEAD-FLAT-HEAD-ENGINES-692509.pdf

If by using jumper cables to try to start the engine (positive cable to starter, negative cable to a good chassis ground) and the engine will not turn over, I think you may be right, bad starter. But if the starter spins, I suspect you have a bad battery.

I taught my students to use the 1/4” passed method, because it would work on engines with and without ACR systems. It made it easier for them to remember one method only, than trying to figure out if they had an ARC system. I called it the KISS way of teaching.

You need to loosen the two mounting bolts on the outside of the chassis, not remove. This with allow you to tilt the pulley assembly, providing room to get the belt between the pulley and the chassis.

If you know what a SPST switch and a dedicated circuit is, plus going directly to the battery, you answered your own question. Cut the wires before the clutch plug and wire them into a dedicated circuit stating and ending at the battery. Just remember that you are responsible for any accidents...

What makes you think it is running too fast? By how it sounds? If that is the case, just about every chipper I’ve worked on sounds like it is running too fast, because you are spinning a 25-35 pound or heavier wheel with cutting teeth on it. On a Craftsman unit I suspect the RPMs should be...

So are you telling us that you are trying to bypass the ignition switch and safety switches by installing a SPST toggle switch into a dedicated circuit???

That may be the route to go, but need more info before suggesting how to proceed.

First GIVE ME A BREAK, don’t go slamming someone who is trying to help you. We are not standing next to you with a beer in our hand seeing exactly what you are doing. The person is trying to understand what is going on to give you their best advice. If you came here thinking you know more...

Most people forget there are two reasons a fuse will blow. One, with a short (no resistance) in the line the current (volume) moves to fast though the line, causing it to heat up burning the fuse. Two, if there is too much resistance in the line (let’s say a starter keeps spinning and heating...

Couple of things don’t make sense to me, but they could be true. First, according to your serial number you have a 2016 unit, with supposedly only 20 hours on it???? Second, did the owner tell you the last time it was used, not just run? Third, do the owner tell you when he changed oil...

Please post the model and serial numbers of both the unit (under the seat) and engine. That way we will know exactly what you have as there are about 10 different setups.

Try googling this “Toro Reelmaster 2300-D service manual “

Quick answer, NO. Different drive setups.

Yes, but the OP stated that the customer took the unit before he could get the numbers, so we just offered advice with the info we had. Sometimes you just do what you got to do.

Could it possibly be a 2300-D? Here is a service manual for 2300-D/2600-D. Hope I’m guessing correctly. https://www.toro.com/getpub/45606

Slomo, a little detective work, without model numbers is probably what Bert did to make his evaluation. The OP stated it was a walk behind Ferris mower with a Kawasaki twin engine. Plus he said it had a different valve adjustment setup. I asked for numbers, because is it easier to offer help...

A couple of things to help you out. First, the model number you posted is an engine model number, not for your rider. If you look under the seat or on the back of the frame, you should find an ID tag with a a 5-9 digit model number. Second, if you look under the unit, back by the right wheel...

As long as you have the parts and you are rebuilding the carb, I would replace primer and welch plugs.

Hope you ordered a new needle also.

Realize that you have one of the cheaper units on the market. If it wasn’t needed, they would have not put it on originally. Put it back on.

Trade in value is about $50-$75, so you have to realize that if you can get enough to pay for a good night out for you and the better half, jump on it.

I’m going against my better judgment, but I guess my experience as a teacher tells me that Some people make very stupid mistakes. If you ever use this or any other forum to get help, don’t ASSUME that you know more than those who try to help you. There’s a reason you ask questions and there...

When you cleaned the carb, did you remove the main jet and main nozzle? There is no way to make sure that all orifices are clear unless you remove and check each one.

Next time it happens loosen the gas cap. If the engine regains it’s power your cap is bad. You the engine stops remove the cap and then reinstall. If you can restart right away and cut for another 10 minutes, again cap is bad.

I’ve used super glue those nipples with good success.

Just because an ad tells you that it’s product is a direct replacement, doesn’t make it true. I feel you have been penny wise but pound foolish. I’ve see 75-100 of these symptoms on Tecumseh engines (due to old fuel in the unit) each year and 95% of the time the answer is to properly clean and...

Please post the model and spec numbers for your engine so we have a better idea of what you are dealing with.

I’m assuming that by variator you mean the variable speed pulley system, which uses two belts running on one shaft with a sliding pulley in the middle. If that is true, you need to replace both belts at the same time for best results.

Maybe this service manual will be of some help to you. https://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Kawasaki-Service-and-Repair-Manuals/FH601D-FH641D-FH680D-FH721D-KAWASAKI-SERVICE-REPAIR-MANUAL-99924206002.pdf

With that comment you’ll get no help from me, because you just bit the hand that was trying to feed you. I probably don’t know what I’m talking about, that’s why I asked the question. I’m a retired teacher, you didn’t read my signature. I’ve only been working on small engines for over 50...

Maybe this alternator guide will help you, around pages 16-20. https://www.briggsandstratton.com/content/dam/briggsandstratton/na/en_us/Files/FAQs/alternator_replacement.pdf

To me it sure sounds like metal on metal. I would be pulling the shroud to start my investigation. You can easily run that engine for three to five minutes at half throttle without damage.

Why don’t you purchase the rebuild kit, part number 951-14446, which contains all the parts you need to rebuild the carb. You took it apart for some reason, so now is the best time to do it right.

First the engine numbers are 31P677-1373-G1. From your description I suspect you have multiple problems and this is what I would be looking at. 1. Bad battery and would replace. 2. PTO wires may be switch when you retired the plug or clutch is bad. Without the engine running, but switch...

If it has been sitting for 10 years my guess is that the belt is pretty well gone. Before going after the tranny I would re the drive belt, probably worn, cracked or dry rotting. When changing check to make sure the idler tension arm and pulleys are in good shape and moving freely.

I’m think that it is time to clean and rebuild the carb. This manual will help you out if you decide to do it yourself. https://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Kawasaki-Service-and-Repair-Manuals/FJ180V--KAWASAKI-SERVICE-REPAIR-MANUAL.pdf

This manual should help you out. Make sure you have a fully charged battery before doing any testing. Reply back if you have more questions. http://www.kohlerengines.com/engines/onlinecatalog/pdf/24_690_07_EN.pdf

Maybe one of these manuals will help you out. Problem I’m having is your unit had an option of three different decks. 42” 48” 60”. I know that you need two belts, but I hate guessing on sizes or belt number. https://apache.ariens.com/manuals/934-RM-89.pdf...

Please post the deck model and serial numbers. There were three sizes available, but I need deck number to help you.

Thank you for your service and stay safe. I’ll be watching for it.

It would help your cause if you would post the model and serial numbers for both the unit and engine. I do like taking stabs in the dark.

Please post the model and serial numbers of the engine. With them I will get you a service manual which will go through how to test the charging system.

I think that is what I said in post #23.

You will probably have to find a mechanic who has been around the block more than once. Any younger than forty will probably have never worked on the old Tecumseh ignition systems. If you know what you are going they are not that hard, just time consuming.

I suggest you go to Sears Parts Direct and type in your model number. It will give you a parts breakdown of the deck and then you should be able to identify where the part goes. From your description we have no idea of exactly which part you are talking about. If you need more help, post back...

White smoke usually indicates water In the fuel. Take a glass container and drain four inches of fuel into it. If you have water in the fuel you will see it at the bottom of the container.

You must remove the belt guard bracket to access the belt. Once the bracket is off you can easily replace the belt.

Please post the engine numbers so we can see what you are dealing with.

Congratulations.

Toro part number 103990. The back of the switch should be labeled like this.

First, looking at the pics you posted, those two switches are not the same. One will not replace the other, do not try. Second, fir some reason I can’t find anything in Toro with the model number you posted. Please double check the model number located under the seat. The only time I’ve seen...

Start by getting yourself a cheaper spark tester, auto parts store, Harbor Frieght, etc. Then the next time it happens see if you have good spark on each cylinder. In my opinion there are normally four things which will cause this problem. A coil which has a hot short or open when it gets...

If the fuel pump moves fuel when you disconnect the line from the carb, but not when you reattached the line, most likely probl is with the carb. That’s why I said you must check the float needle and seat. You said it working once and that was it. How did you verify the the needle is not...

You must remember that IL and I are service techs. Never attempted to place a seal there as the purpose of a technician is to find and solve the problem, not try to put a bandaid on it and hope it works. We tried to help you solve the problem using the knowledge we have gained through one or...

Don’t beat yourself up over it. You might not believe this, but I’ve seen worse.

You have something screwed up with your solenoid wiring. The two large terminals on the solenoid should only have one large cable each. One is the cable coming from the battery (this is the cable with the large and small wire) and the other going to the starter.

Seems to be back to normal. Thank you

This manual will help you on how to test the charging system. https://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Kawasaki-Service-and-Repair-Manuals/FR651V-FS651V-FX651V-FR691V-FS691V-FX691V-FR730V-FS730V-FX730V-KAWASAKI-SERVICE-REPAIR-MANUAL-99924-2093-01.pdf

Just a thought, have you checked to see if the breather is working properly. If it is not you could be building crankcase pressure causing oil to find the easiest way out. If the breather is the problem, putting a seal there won’t help, just be blown out. That’s what my average mechanical...

Looks like it is hooked up correctly. If it works when it is not attached to the carb, but doesn’t when attached, I suspect the float needle in the carb is frozen closed, not allowing fuel to enter the float bowl. Time to check the carb.

If you still have the original invoice all is not lost, even if it was not registered. Many times I have been able to work with customers and companies when I can prove date of purchase. All depends on how you try working with them.

If the pulleys are not holding the belt tight, because of a weak spring, that could be the problem. Is it an OEM string or did someone change it?

No lockups here, but still slow.

Please don’t be offended, but do you have it hooked up correctly? Post a picture of the pump and tell us which line you have attached where.

Go through this troubleshooting procedure and post back results. Electrical* problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things. 1. * How well you understand basic electricity. 2. *What tools you have and know how to use. 3. *How well you follow directions. 4. *You don't...

First thing I would check is the ground cable to chassis connection.

Your best bet may be a powered pole saw. Only thing is after you are done have an experienced mechanic rebuild the lower end.

Start by cleaning and rebuilding the carb, or have it done if not experienced with these carbs.

That engine has a thermo switch as part of the ignition circuit, which may be overheating when you shut the unit off. Attached is a service manual for your engine, which may help in troubleshooting...

Glad to hear you were able to solve the problem. Like you I’ve preached on this forum that having and using a good dealership when trying to solve problems is far more valuable than the little bit more you might pay in parts.

I would start by replacing the belt part number 183688. it may look good, but no ones eyesight is that good. Second, check to see that the tensioner pulleys are in good shape, bearings spin very smooth.

Only 3 months out of warranty and the dealer is no help? Not a very good dealer. I would politely contact BadBoy directly with your problem to see if they will help you out. Second, I would be looking for a new dealer. Here is a phone number. https://www.badboymowers.com/interact/contact-us

Have you checked the drive idler tensioner arm and pulleys. The arm may not be traveling far enough to keep tension on the belt or the pulleys may be bad, bearings tightening up when they get hot. At 11 years old I suspect bad pulleys, if they’ve never been replaced.

Your engine is probably a Tecumseh model HH70. If you look very hard on the shroud, by the spark plug, you should be find the model and spec numbers. With the old points system I suspect you may have a bad coil or it is not timed correctly. The timing of these coils are very touchy and you...

Sure looks like a model W4815, but that engine is not a 15 hp.

Goggle sun shades or sun guards for Z-turn mowers. Should give you a few options.

Either the blade is loose or you have an engine with internal problems.

Looks like it might be running a little rich too me, but I’ve seen worse. Did you try tweaking the float level a tiny bit?

The only time I’ve encountered an oil leak there, if it is not over filled, is when the customer is mowing on a steep side hill with that side of the engine down slope..

This ser manual may be of some help. https://www.toro.com/getpub/6933

Ok, then I would be using this troubleshooting procedure to identify the problem. Electrical* problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things. 1. * How well you understand basic electricity. 2. *What tools you have and know how to use. 3. *How well you follow directions...

Maybe this service manual will be of some help to you. If you need more help post back with the model and serial numbers of the tractor. https://www.toro.com/getpub/22447

If the float bowl is the part you are needing, 95% of Tecumseh bowls are interchangeable.

I don’t like to PM because everyone should see the answer.

No changes here, still slow. Plus I don’t see where the Admin has replied to any of the threads, saying they are working on the problem. Must be working hard to solve it and don’t have time to respond????

Then I suggest your proceed through this troubleshooting procedure and report back. Electrical* problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things. 1. * How well you understand basic electricity. 2. *What tools you have and know how to use. 3. *How well you follow directions...

You are going to have to do some electrical troubleshooting, which in this case may not be easy. Plus I don’t know if you have a multimeter to check for continuity or shorts to ground. Your problem maybe any one or more possible causes. PTO switch bad, clutch bad, bad connection in the line...

I’m an old fart, I don’t do videos well. You might have gone a hair too rich and will have to tweak it back a bit leaner.

Tom, the crankcase is part of the fuel delivery system on this mower. Oil in the fuel lubricates the internal parts of the engine before the mixture leaves the crankcase and enters the combustion chamber. Replacing the reeds won‘t change or solve his problem.

Go to Sears Parts Direct with this model number, 486248463. There you will be able to download a manual for your blower. Then you will be able to figure out which parts you are missing and what you will need to order. You are correct, either someone removed parts or you purchased the tractor...

Not pressurized, yes

Next time it happens loosen the fuel cap and see if it will run. If it does, replace the cap.

Pop the retaining push nut on the left end of the pivot rod in your picture and drive the rod out. Yes, you will destroy the post nut, but they are cheap to replace if needed in future.

Dayton tractors were built by MTD for W. W. Grainier in the mid to late ‘70s. I suggest you contact MTD with any questions you have, as there is very little info around on them.

I don’t think you need a bracket to mount that blower on that tractor. Do you have a large pin sticking out on the front of each side of the frame? The notches on the blower should fit over these pins. If I’m wrong post back with pictures of the sides of the frame and model numbers of both...

Go to Sears Parts Direct with your model number (located under the seat) and you should be able to find what you are looking for.

Outboard oils air meant for water cooled engines, not Lawn Boys, which run hotter than mowers. Lawn Boy fuel/oil ratio should be 32-1 when using standard 2-cycle oil.

If the mower sat for a long period of time, you may have a large amount of oil sitting in the crankcase. If that is the case, it should clear up after about 30 minutes of running. As sail check your fuel/oil ratio. I suggest you use Opti-2 oil, because you don’t have to measure and smokes...

Check the battery connections, may have come loose when you hit the stump. Also, the connection where the negative cable attaches to the chassis.

Check the battery voltage first. Then check battery connections on the battery and where it grounds to the tractor. All must be clean and tight. Post back with results and we will give you more help.

Telling me I need to change browsers and add an ad blocker is unacceptable. I have no problems with any other sires. We are talking about the members who use the site the most often (About a dozen) and they are the ones who provide 95% of the answers being asked. On top of that the admin is...

Here is a parts diagram for the tractor and deck for future reference. Look at the deck diagram for the belt you need, as there are two listed, depending on your serial number. http://samsbolens.com/files/1467-1667.pdf http://samsbolens.com/files/18300.pdf

Briggs caps are now vented through the threads, no more holes, so I doubt that is the problem.

They are salvagable if the wing, back edge of the cutting portion of the blade, is not too thin. I say replace if the thickness is less than 50% of a new blade on the wing. Dangerous to use at this point.

Your math has a flaw in many parts of the country. Around here 100% fuel costs about 25% more than E10, so where is the savings. Right now E10 is $2.00/gal and 100% is $2.39-$2.58/gal. Where’s the savings at that price. I run E10 in all my vehicles and equipment, but I never let any of them...

Admin, no one have time to give us an update on the problem we are having? At least say you are working on the problem would be appreciated. Those us a bone please.

I would check with your local repair shops, I’ll bet they have more than one used carb laying around you can scavenge parts off. Then purchase a kit 631021B from them and rebuild the carb.

Before throwing in the towel, try setting the float slightly rich. To do this bend the float tab so that the float is about 1/16” (roughly 2 mm) higher by the float pin or lower on the opposite side.

Post the model number located under the seat so we can see what you have.

If the oil level is correct I would clean the area around the breather sparkling clean and dry. Then run the engine on a level surface for about 20 minutes to see if the problem persists when running. I would like you to run it for 20 minutes to see if it will clear up. I’m thinking you may...

The OEM carb number Is 799868, same as what you ordered, but it should use a solid float needle with a replaceable viton seat. If yours has a solid seat you have a chinese knockoff.

Did you check if it was overfilled?

Page 7-133 of this guide will have the wiring diagrams you will need for electrical troubleshooting. Lights on this tractor have nothing to do wit the charging system. I’ve also attached a Kohler Command service manual so you can test the charging system. Hope this helps, post back with any...

Lots of questions. Did your new carb have part number 640262A? This is the OEM carb, not a ”universal Chinese carb”. Second when you rebuilt the old carb, did you follow my procedure and install kit number 631021B, plus adjust the float slightly rich? This make for easy starting. Third...

That tank should have a screen filter, molded over the fuel outlet Inside the tank.

DB, first if you would like help it would be best to start a new thread. Hyjacking another thread is frowned upon. Second, there are dozens of different stick designs and adjustments, so you need to include your units model and serial numbers so we can see exactly which model you have...

If you post the model and serial numbers for the tractor, I’ll get a wiring diagram to help in troubleshooting.

Instead of purchasing an entire kit, have you tried going to a good echo dealer/repair shop and find out if the have the parts you need in stock. May be able to buy just the parts you need or you might need a kit anyway. Can’t hurt to ask.

Testing the coil is meaningless, as Hall Effect coils have internal components which affect the readings. Second, the ignition system will not affect a surging problem. Surging is caused by a lean fuel mixture. Surging after an engine warms up is most likely cause by no getting enough fuel...

Ok, I’ll check back tomorrow.

Did you check the oil level and does it smell like gas?

Does the needle have a plastic viton tip?

Ok, this is going to take a little work, but I will try to help you out. First, I am assuming you are in Europe, maybe Austria, which will not help us, but we will get through it. I believe you have a Centura engine, does it say anything like that on the engine? Second, what exactly are you...

Post all of the numbers from the ID tag so we can figure out what replacement parts you will need.

Check to see if the oil is above the full mark and if the oil on the dipstick smells like gas. If either is positive you probably have a carb problem. When you post back with what you found include a couple of pictures of the ID tag and engine, so we can figure out what model engine you have.

Willing to bet the engine has either a blown head gasket and/or is only running on one cylinder.

The center pulley is NOT spring loaded, but free floating.

Admin, it would be greatly appreciated if you would let us know that you are working on resolving this problem. As you can see it is getting very frustrating to the members who are trying to help members with problems. Most of us have the patience, but a few are starting to loose it. Thank...

In which post did I say I was leaving the forum? Patience is my old farts forte. I’m betting the admin will figure this out and I won’t need an ad blocker. It has locked up once this afternoon and is quite slow now.

If you replaced an OEM carb costing approximately $125 with one off EvilBay, for $15, I’m willing to bet you don’t have the correct carb for your engine.

If you get an offer close to your asking price, jump on it. Personally I would not be asking more than $300, because it is used. I’m thinking more like $250, but I’m not standing there to see it’s over all condition. If you go to a Honda repair ship, with your model numbers, they can tell you...

I suspect you may have a blown head gasket. With the engine running remove the dipstick and let it rest on the tube. If it bounces around that would indicate a bad head gasket. If you need more help, post back with your engine numbers.

Slow still but no lock ups this morning.

Slomo, I don’t have a dialup system and never needed an ad blocker. I have no idea of why I should get something to be able to enjoy a single website. Never needed it before and when problems have occurred on this site in the passed, the admin has been able to solve them over time. Patience...

Check out the section on governors in this manual. You should be able to identify whi charging system by the wires you have. https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B6NaqjIxWV1ySkZjTTA5TGltZEE

Charging system parts are part of the engine. Post the engine numbers and we’ll find you a service procedure to test the charging system.

A little slow here yet, but no lockup’s.

I think if you google 12V accessory plug adapter you will find what you want. I run my sprayer using one on my tractor all the time. The mechanic needs to upgrade his electrical knowledge.

Could you post a couple of pictures of the unit. We need to try to identify the manufacturer of the unit, I’m thinking Ecilipse. Include one of the ID tag.

I’ll bet you were given the wrong switch, they may look the say but the terminals are different. Look at the back of each switch terminal and check the letter stamped on it.

On that model the first thing I would check are the idler pulleys and idle arm. Making sure that the pulley bearings are not worn and the idler arm moves freely. If the drive belt has not been replaced in three years I would be replacing it.