Recent content by Rivets

Yes, you must split the chain case. Look at this diagram. https://www.searspartsdirect.com/model/2np4ckxits-000247/craftsman-917293200-rear-tine-tiller-parts

By play do you mean up/down play or in/out play? Up/down play is normally caused by worn axle bushings.

Depending on usage, should be checked every year and changed every 3-4 years.

When you said you cleaned the carb, did you remove, disassemble, clean, check float level, assembly and install? Did you check to see if the choke was closing fully or that the primer was working? These are all things I would be looking at.

Sorry, I can’t see or understand which part you are talking about.

Can you provide us with the model number off your tiller? Remember we are not standing next to you to see what you have. With the current lockdown and stay at home, our ESP does not work.

For the LB lovers out there, this file might interest you. https://www.mytractorforum.com/attachments/torolbmodels-zip.77222/

Sorry, can’t really help you more, as I’m a tech and even though I’m old I’m not an historian.

It should close farther than that.

You are correct that model was not released for sales until 1984. I suspect you have a 1983 prototype which was not supposed to leave the factory.

To me that spring is used to snap the choke closed, when starting. Before throwing new parts at it, I would get a can of carb cleaner and spray clean all that crap on the outside of the carb. Then check to see if the choke will snap closed.

Can you show us the spring and where it was hanging?

Please post a pic of the ID tag.

When was the last time you replaced the belt and checked the idler pulleys? Most common cause of this problem is an old belt and/or worn idler pulleys and tensioner arm.

Are you talking about the belt retainer which goes around half of the PTO pulley and is held in place by two thumbscrews?

Engine mounting bolts are probably under the muffler, which must be removed first.

That number number comes up to a lower chute used by Husqvarna, MTD and AYP. Each of these manufacturers built units for Sears Craftsman. Another reason I hate working on big box units, as most are cheaply made and it gets tough finding parts as they age.

When ever you use the nonethanol fuel, please remember to do this. Before pumping any fuel into your gas can puta gallon or two into your car. Why? With today’s one hose pumps you have no idea of what the person before you used. You may end up with a half can of ethanol fuel in your can...

In that case your best bet is to contact the experts at Sears parts direct. They have a chat line which will help you and give you help if they give you incorrect info.

Your best bet is to run the entire unit dry. Then drain the carb bowl by loosening the carb bowl screw, DO NOT REMOVE, and allow all fuel to drain out of the entire fuel system. Also, remove the gas cap while doing this. After about an hour, tighten the bowl screw and replace the gas cap...

Whoa, slow down there buffalo bob, it takes time to find answers. Being impatient is not going to help your cause, as is dual posting. Things don’t work that way around here like that. To tell you the truth I’ve been trying to find you an answer, but haven’t as of yet. Seeing that you think...

On the older Tecumseh engines, with 5 characters, the first number is the year of manufacture. His is 4, but that is as close as Tecumseh goes, which is why I gave three different years.

First, any time you remove the head on a Tecumseh engine you must replace the head gasket. Second, when you have the head off set the piston at TDC and take your thumb, push down hard on the valve head and try to turn it in either direction. If you can move it, either the valve clearance is...

Unless I’m missing something everything looks correct to me. On these type of units I normally set my low end RPM’s at 1800 and high end at 3200. If you have anything else to ask, please do so. Worst answer I can give you is I DON’T KNOW.

1964 or 1974 or 1984 can’t get any closer than that. I’ll contact a member over there and see it he can help you get parts. Have no idea about the mower.

Tecumseh model H50-65394K

Check you valve clearances.

Looks to me like an old Tecumseh or Briggs. How about a couple more pics of the other sides? Carefully scrap the top of the shroud, by the loop, I’ll bet you find some numbers.

Looks to me like the governor gear is missing a few teeth.

According to the parts diagram, the cable should be on the left hand side of the handle and the return spring on the right hand side. I adjust the cables so there is about 1/2” of slack in the cable when the handle is all the way back.

With your date code the carb you should use is 499953. You have a 2005 engine, the other carb you listed is for engines built before 1998.

Model number is 08P502-0047-F1

How did you adjust it. I know this may sound like a dumb question, but I’ve seen people do it backwards more than once. Also, is the Personal Pase spring, right side under the handle, broken?

How about giving us the numbers off the engine or the mower? It might help your cause.

Did you adjust the Personal Pace cable on the handle?

Toro MyRide gets. My vote, but as said, you’ll have to do some test driving.

Sorry I’m at a loss here and because I’m not there I don’t know what to tell you. If you have followed those directions, the only thing i can think of is that you may have an Internet problem. Only thing I can’t see, is the governor link, the one with the spring, going to the throttle control...

You are going to have to give us a lot more info before we can help you. We need ALL the numbers off the engine. With out them we are as lost as you.

Not going to find much info on this unit, unless you get real lucky. Was a cheap mower, probably built by Murray and sold through TruValu hardware stores. What exactly are you looking for?

I don’t really think about initial adjustment when I set those carbs, so that doesn’t really help you out. Maybe this manual will be of more help than me. https://lookup3.toro.com/ttcGateway/acrobat/manuals/lball.html

It was just my opinion. Remember I have had to teach students how to help customers make good decisions, because we charge customers for their decisions.

Very first thing I would check is the battery and if you get it started the charging system. If you know your battery is in great shape I’ll post a testing procedure.

First thing you should do is start measuring to see how far out of specs the parts maybe. Personally I wouldn’t speed too much time on this engine. Rod is toast, piston and cylinder not much better, crank journal needs cleaning and valve seats may need cutting. Just a second opinion, cost...

Take a second look at these two explanations and illustrations, together they may tell you what you might be missing. Section 5 page 14 & 15 speed adjustment Section 4 page 13 & 14 governor control

The brackets in fig 12 and 13 are different. You need to use 13 Snap in “Style Speed Control”

I have not seen any difference in how you put the tach on the engine. Biggest problem I have found is the flatter the area the better, you want it as smooth as possible to get the best reading.

After looking at the pictures, if you don’t want to spend the money I would still go will the air vane governor. No worries about leaking as it is a top mounted system. You can always go Bert’s method if you don’t like the outcome.

I don’t think there are any real rules, but I’ve only posted one in the eight years I’ve been here. Only thing I’ve heard is that you need to keep the pixels down, but I know engines, not computers.

Those pics look better to me. You said you set the governor following the instructions on page 27 and the high and low speeds following the instructions on page 29. Did you set the governor first, and then the speed?

I would leave it alone if you are going to use the air vane. As long as the air vane system can move freely it shouldn’t create any problems.

Please post the engine model, type and code numbers. TroyBilt does not supply them.

If it was me I would be cleaning and rebuilding the carb.

You say your old unit has no governor, because you have no hole in the side of the block. Are you sure that it may not have an air vane governor under the shroud, instead of a mechanical governor.

Thank you, just so much easier if I can see it.

Just to give you a warning, the learning curve on this type is not short. Most of my students needed at least 2 dozen uses to get to where I would give them an A on the test. Best to learn on a smooth running engine, unit running rough will drive you to the bar.

Yes, it asked if I had given up on you. You say you have a new cable, when you push the control handle all the way forward as in pic #1, is the control down by the carb all the way forward as in pic #2&4? Second question, on your new cable, is stop when you pull it back or push it forward?

No, just had to be out of town for awhile. Do you have the correct throttle cable? Your pic number one shows the throttle in the fast position, but the other pics show the control in the stop position.

If you can post a pic of the carb and governor linkage, it would be great.

If you can catch it with the choke I’m guessing you have a lean running condition. There #hould b3 a black jet under the idle speed screw. Remove the screw and pry up on the jet to remove it. Check to see that the hole on the bottom is clear.

They are sold as an assembly.

If your flywheel does not have a ring gear on it, I doubt that it is possible, as I don’t is that a flywheel with a ring gear is available. Personally I wouldn’t spend that amount of money or time on that engine. Probably the cheapest engine Briggs produces right now.

Check the choke, I don’t think it is opening slightly on start up. If you need more help, post all engine numbers and a couple of close up pics of the carb and linkage.

First, remove the kill wire from the coil and check for spark. If you have spark, your kill wire is shorting to ground somewhere. If no spark post back for all engine numbers and we will give you some more suggestions.

Glad to hear you’ve got a fixed. Don’t worry, I won’t be leaving, just have to watch what I post and who I trust because some members want to make me look like a DYI.

This manual should help you out. Post back with pictures if you need more help. https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B6NaqjIxWV1ycG8wd0s3Z2Q2X00

On the older Tecumseh engines the breather tube is not connected to anything.

Sorry about the wrong info, didn’t double check as I should have. Star, until your last post I respected you and your wisdom. Now your wisdom may still be there, but your people skills are down there with Logerts. Yes I made a mistake, but the way you called me out???? Definitely no need for...

Spray some carb cleaner around the tank gasket and the manifold gasket. Any change in engine speed indicates an air leak.

None of this until you can prove to me that it would be worth my time and effort to help you more. As I see from your post, you only want to change under your conditions. It doesn’t work that way at this point. Remember you burnt the bridge and at this point I’m not helping you rebuild it.

Yes, here is the procedure I use. Needle and seat replacement. Remove the carb, and then remove the float bowl. Check the float bowl jet (which is the bowl screw) and make sure the jets both horizontal and vertical are clean and open. Tip the carb upside down and remove the float pin and float...

Most of the time I find that replacing the nylon washer solves the problem. Lawn Boy part number 107-3947 and cost about a buck a piece. If you have a lot of play, I’ve even doubled up on each side. Don’t like rubber unless you never want to move the handle. Make sure the handle control is...

Time to clean and rebuild the carb with Briggs part number 398188. I’ll bet the float seat has swelled and you have a lean running condition.

Before going into big bucks, have you checked the simple things first. Condition of the belt and might it have come off? Condition of the idler pulleys and tensioner arm. Does the arm move freely and are the pulleys in good condition? If any of these are questionable, I would replace first...

First, I would check to see if the choke is closed on a hot restart. This would cause a flooding condition. If it is open I would rebuild the carb.

This is what I do. Electrical* problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things. 1. * How well you understand basic electricity. 2. *What tools you have and know how to use. 3. *How well you follow directions. 4. *You don't overlook or assume anything and verify...

Never heard that one before. If you have a test light or VOM, I can post a troubleshooting procedure if you would like it.

If it were me and I was going to remove the carb from the engine, I would replace the tank and intake manifold gasket also. Plus as long as I had everything apart, I would give the carb a good cleaning also. This manual might help you out...

Would be a lot easier to help you if we knew what brand tractor you have, along with it’s model and serial numbers.

Logert I’m posting in this thread because I’ve hyjacked that other thread for to long. You’ve said you are going to change too many times but don’t. You keep reverting back to trying to make everyone think you have the knowledge of an adult. I’ve told you many times how to change, but you...

Logert your immaturity is showing again. You said we’re building an engine, you’re not your uncle did. You might have put some parts on. I asked you what a “billet” rod and flywheel are, you have no clue. Do you know what reading cam is, I bet not. You didn’t tell the truth about the valves...

Sometimes it looks like the bolt gasket is leaking, but it is really the bowl gasket. Put a light coat of grease on the gasket before installing to make sure it slides on smoothly.

First and simplest things to check are the drive belt and tensioner pulleys. Remove the deck and crawl underneath.

First, check to see if the belts have not jumped off a pulley. Wouldn’t be the first time a stick has gotten between the belt and pulley causing it to come off.

MTD does not give us the Tecumseh engine model number we need to give you a carb number. There should be a Tecumseh tag on the side of the shroud which will give us the model number of the engine. That being said, at this time of the year I rebuild about one of those carbs a day. Cost in...

Sounds to me like you may have a missing tensioner spring, bad spindle, bad spindle pulley or bad idler arm or pulleys. If is thank new I would contact Lowe’s and find out who does their warranty work. Let them do the troubleshooting, before you start replacing parts.

Model number is on a black and silver tag on the back, top of deck. As stated should begin with 917.

cpurvis, this is an L-head engine. If you have a small engine valve spring compressor it is very easy. If you don’t, go borrow one from your local repair shop or some auto guys have them also. I’m assuming you are having trouble getting the small tapered keepers in the slots. You will need...

Logert, I’ve got a few questions about your build. What is a billet rod and flywheel? Second, when you replaced the cam did you replace valve springs as recommended? How did you use oversized valves and why? What did you use to measure speed and RPMs? Where did you purchase racing tires and...

This may help you. https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B6NaqjIxWV1ybEN0LWo3azl6OUU

Do I really think it matters, well yes. This is not my “ first rodeo” either. I’ve be working on small engines for 50+ years, plus taught repair for almost 35 years and when diagnosing fuel problems you must know which carb you are dealing with. Briggs uses 6 different carbs on their engines...

Check the entire axle drive on each side. I’ve worked on that drive many times and I’ll bet you don’t have the drive gear and washers assembled correctly. The washers have to be installed in a specific direction and order. Second did you replace the friction ring and thrust washers, plus new...

Sure would be nice if you would have posted the model,type and code numbers of your engine so we can see which of the hundred Briggs engine you are working on.

There is no adjustment. If the engine is over reving you either have the linkage hooked up wrong or there is a problem with the governor.

Are you sure you installed the float seat correctly? With Briggs part number 398188, needle and seat, the seat has a ridge on one side which must be installed against the carb body, not toward the needle. If the needle and seat are working correctly, the next cause would be that the bowl...

Got those numbers, so we can get you the specs.

Personally I’ve never changed a variable drive shaft. Most common cause is worn belts or variable drive shive is not moving and needs a little lube. A few times I’ve had broken tensioner spring.

Don’t kick yourself when the knee doesn’t go in that direction, as your not the first who has had to learn the hard way. We’ve all been there, myself included, as we forget to think, what could happen if I do this. Glad to see you have the problem fixed and thank you for posting back. You may...

Give us the engine numbers, model and serial, then we can get you specs.

Yes, miracles do happen, but if it is flooding an air filter will not cause that if you just have to wait 20 minutes. Logert is just guessing and he most often sends people in the wrong direction. Before trying to diagnose a the problem we need to know what the OP means by turning over.

I’ve worked on dozens of these units and don’t understand what is going on. I’m going to have to get to the shop to see what a new unit looks like. Something tells me you don’t have something hooked up correctly. Will get back to you as soon as possible.

Part number 100-2949. Should be available at any Toro dealer or repair shop.

Buddy, I see that you have started two different threads with the same issue. This will get very confusing and if possible delete one thread. If you can’t delete, pick one to work through and post on the other thread that you will not be using it. Thank you.

Please post any engine info you can find. Brand, model and serial numbers. We need to know what you have in front of you.

I’m confused by what you mean by your question. Please explain what you are asking.

Biggest problem is that the sump bolts come loose. Take the shroud off and check all bolts holding the cover to the block.

Check your valve clearance again, not uncommon for them to change if you didn’t tighten properly

Please post your serial number, as the are 10 different units.

Logert stick to what you know. You don’t have a clue..When you say turn over, do you mean will not start or you can pull the recoil? If it will not move pulling the recoil, remove the plug and try pulling again. If it will not move check the oil level, you may be low on oil and the rod is...

Here is a service manual which should help you out. The second site is a parts breakdown for your engine. If you post the last set of numbers off the shroud we can tell you the year of manufacture. Most parts will be available at your local repair shop, but may have to be ordered. If you are...

You probably burnt too many bridges!!??

What doesn’t work?

From what you described you may found part or all of the problem. Look under the chassis and see if there are any filters between the tank and fuel pump. Kubota engines are highly susceptible to fuel contamination and normally have multiple filters. If you have concerns about the quality of...

That’s about right, what Logert doesn’t realize is that you added 2”, but that’s 1” on top and 1” on bottom. If you have the clearance to the frame, the only problem would be turning radius and easy.

Finally you got it. This manual will help you. https://www.allotment-garden.org/rotavator-manuals/HOWARD-300_350-Service-Repair-manual.pdf

On the piece of equipment you are working on. The clutch is not a Kohler part.

Sorry, but in this case I don’t recognize that clutch. Going to need numbers

VERY, VERY, VERY little lube between the drive gear and axle, only attracts dirt. I run them dry on all units I see routinely, as I check them each year.

When ever possible, I always set RPMs under load.

We will see, but you’ve said it all before and I’ve seen no attempt to change.

Back country campers trick for warm water if you have the sun. Take a black heavy duty garage bag and fill half full of water and lay it on something that will not puncture it. Let it sit in the sun all day and by late afternoon you’ll have warm water. Does not have to be warm out, just above 40.

Yogurt, don’t you realize that the web and this forum reaches the entire world. Sometimes the translations are not available. Finally, you are showing your immaturity as usual, grow up and watch your language!!!

First, I would run the tire pressure at 13 psi in the rear and 25 psi in the front. Second, with your cutting problem four things will cause it. 1. Dull blades. 2. Not running engine at full throttle. 3. Unit speed too fast. 4. Try to cut more than 1/3 the grass height or wet grass. High...

I recommend you contact Honda for the best answer to your question. Found them to be very helpful. Here is a phone number. https://powerequipment.honda.com/support/contact-us

I highly doubt it. Believe it or not, but the KW-KM Power-Sweeper does a good job of dethatching. You turn the unit over so the paddles turn toward you and pull back.

There are a couple of different styles of cone clutches. Please either post the model and serial numbers of the unit or pictures of the clutch so we know the style you have.

Check your valve clearance, may not be fully opening the valves.

If you are going to work on generators, make sure your meter has a hertz setting, as hertz is more important than voltage. Before setting the unit, look at the tag and make sure your unit has 50 or 60 hertz output. Have seen some of the cheaper units only have a 50 hertz output.

Yes, you should be able to accomplish this job, if you have the patience. Go to this website, using you model and serial numbers to get a breakdown of parts and diagram of how it is assembled. Couples of things to remember. First as you disassemble the drive make sure you keep track of the...

I’m wrong again, to me it looked like the sales decal number, the way he typed it out. Sorry for the confusion.

Not model number. Look on the plate over the muffler, should be three sets, model, type and code.

Sounds to me you have a fuel delivery problem to the injectors. First thing I would check is the fuel line from the tank all rather way to the injector pump. Look for debris in the tank, clogged fuel lines and fuel filters, there amay be as many as three. and fuel pump. When was the last time...

Please give us all numbers for the engine, as Jacobsen is not easy to access on the internet.

With that engine,type and code numbers will be helpful.

Your pictures show a 4-cycle Tecumseh engine and you do not mix oil with gas. If you have to ask that question iDO NOT recommend you attempt the repair I posted.

If you can hear the valves opening and closing, you’ve got great hearing, plus something is not right in the valve train. You should not be able to hear valve movement.

Yes, the serial number will be a great help. I’m guessing that the drive gear on the axle is worn and needs replacing. Is the pin you are talking about a half moon sit on a spring in the axle? With the serial number I can help more.

If the choke is bouncing while the engine is running, you need to tighten the spring tension by moving the tab the spring is hooked to, in toward the engine. This spring is designed to close the choke when the end is closed.

Take a voltage reading at the battery, before tearing into the engine. Should be a minimum of 10 VDC With the key in the start position. Wouldn’t be the first time a new battery is bad.

Star is correct, I used the wrong engine type number.

By back, I’m assuming you mean the back of the air filter. Over time the back will warp and not seal the primer grooves, so no priming will occur.

Yes, hundreds of times. I’m will to bet you will find that you have spark, but no fuel getting to the Tecumseh carb. Time to clean and rebuild the carb with Tecumseh part number 631021B. Follow the procedure I use, plus new plug and air filter. Needle and seat replacement. Remove the carb...

You are going to translate this into English please, unless you’re a robot.

The choke return spring is part number 798900.

Both are good units I haven’t seen where the flex forks help a lot. Being a Toro guy I recommend the MyRide system. It has been a great unit for us, especially for the commercial guys who spent all day on the unit, they love the comfort on bumpy ground. Older residential customers love the...

Does this manual help? https://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Kawasaki-Service-and-Repair-Manuals/FH451V-FH480V-FH500V-FH531V-FH541V-FH580V-FH601V-FH641V-FH661V-FH680V-FH680V-FH721V-KAWASAKI-SERVICE-REPAIR-MANUAL--99924-2078-01.pdf

Right now we will get an average of 6 units and day, walk behind or tractor drop offs, plus 2-3 times a week we do pickup and delivery. Not all are just check over, which take longer. In two weeks I expect we’ll be 2-3 weeks out. One tractor can reduce the simple ones to nothing for that day...

In the smaller screw sizes, numbers are used instead of fractions. 12 is the screw size and 24 or 32 is the number of threads per inch, depending if it is fine or course.

The reason I use the tip over method, as it saves me time. While the oiling is draining I will be sharpening the blade, cleaning the deck, checking belts etc. This time of the year I may be doing a 10 mowers a day, if they are full check overs.

Ok, probably a 12 X 24 or 12 X 32 screw, not a stud. Go down to any hardware store and you should be able to get them, nothing special. Some of the real old ones had a bolt and nut.

What is mounted on the top of that elbow, an air filter housing?

Need spec number and any other pertinent info.

Can’t get into JD portal from home, so that makes sense. Wish the OP would under stand he needs to help us by posting all numbers, decal numbers from the frame would have allowed me to get in the back door. Oh well, have a good Easter.

A spec number would have been helpful, but most are the same. Kohler part number 220133-S. Stud size is 1/4 X 20 X 1 7/8”

Duh, what engine do you have? Ford small block, Chevy big block, Dodge in-line 6, Kubota diesel, etc. Engine numbers would also help.

This manual might be of some help. https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B6NaqjIxWV1ybEN0LWo3azl6OUU

I use a straight pipe with a 90 degree elbow at the end pointing down with a pipe plug.

Smarter than me, as I couldn’t even find a PA420A engine. Most be getting old.

Please post the model and serial numbers for the engine.

Start by removing the shroud and making sure that a little friend has not built a nest blocking the cooling fins. Second, a lean running condition will cause a hot and rough running engine.

PA420A does not come up as a good number. Everything I find says your unit will have a Kawasaki model F420C engine. Here is the service manual for that engine. Maybe this will help you...

Depends what is wrong with it. It’s the bracket which connects the deck to the frame.

Yes, you posted the engine numbers after I posted my recommendation. I don’t see where anyone told you to disconnect the kill wire, I sure didn’t.

Sell it as is, with best offer. Explain what’s wrong and see what they offer. Should be able to get decent money for it.

It supersedes to 532175805 which is no longer available. Best bet is search your local dealers to see if anyone has one in their boneyard. Take a picture with you so they don’t have to look it up.

You were told that because you never told us what engine you had.

I’m not find a manual in pdf form to sent you. You can purchase them if you want to. If you do a search use this model number. RC60-72H for your deck. Sorry I couldn’t help more.

First, loosen those two screws on the control plate and move the plate to get the lever to contact the shut off arm. Second, I’m think by your description you may have adjusted the governor the wrong way. Double check how you did it, against the manual, and make sure the throttle plate is wide...

Yes, spring hooks into the loop. Diagram shows the loop #5 goes straight down.

One of two possible causes, no spark or lack of fuel. Next time it happens check for spark. May have a hot open or short in the coil. If no spark replace coil. If you have spark spray some carb cleaner into the carb and see if it will fire. Report back and we go from there.

Part #5 hooks into the deck, loose so it can swivel, near that bracket at the top of you circle.

First check to see if you mounted the coil upside down. Second set the air gap to .010”. If that fails post all engine numbers.

Have you checked to see if there is a drain on the other side? If not you may have to pull the engine to install a 90 degree fitting, then extension and cap.

Post the numbers off the shroud and I’ll get you a part number.

You will need to get us the model number off the black and silver tag on the deck.

Cracked manifold will cause those symptoms.

I looked at it some more and I think I’m wrong, keepers on correct, sorry.

Valve spring keepers are on upside down.

If you elect to attempt this, I suggest you check your lock Toro dealer for cheap Toro tradeins. Might find one with good engine, bad transmission. No interchangeable wheels, but you must make sure the axle bearing hoc is good. If they get worn the meshing of the drive and wheel gears wear...

Mine are also.

Bad electrical connections, wrong oil, wrong battery too low CCA, will all contribute to this problem.

I’ve seen this exact problem many times, many with new carbs.

Covid-19 was your problem. Remember Trump is on this, so things will get worse before they get better.

Don’t know why the manual doesn’t help, but I’ll give you a couple of things to check. First the coil resistance levels should be between 10-20 ohms primary and 15K-20K secondary. Primary is between small lead and coil ground wire and secondary between spark plug wire and coil ground. Second...

This manual should be of some help, as it will show how to set the points and troubleshoot the ignition system. When you test for spark make sure you have removed the kill wire from the points. That way you will know if you have an engine or equipment problem...

Two things to check. First remove the air filter and check to see if the choke is fully closed. If it is closed I suspect the the float seat is swelled causing a lean condition. Remedy is to remove the carb and rebuild with a new float needle and seat, Briggs part number 398188. This is the...

Looks like you have the linkages hooked up properly, but I can see under the control plate to make sure. I’m going to ask a few questions, which you may have done, but I’m not there to see. Did you adjust the static governor lever according to the procedure stated in the manual? Have you tried...

I would recommend the Kubota. Yes most feel that they are pricey, but you get what you pay for. Bouncing around on two acres and using a tiller, will shorten the life on any on the home owner entry level units. I’m not talking a BX or B series as that is to big for two acres, but the GR...

That model has TuffTorq K46DM transmission and single drive belt. The three most common problems on that system are worn belt, worn idler pulleys, and/or tight tensioner arm. You are going to have to pull the deck and get under the unit to check these. Have an assistant seat on the unit and...

Jay, please DO NOT post a question in multiple threads. You are only going to make it confusing for all of us. Start a new thread and be sure to include the model and serial numbers of the unit. Also, it would be courteous to delete your posts from all the threads you asked in.

I think you mean 3-26-20?

Close, new air filter and plug are in order. You will have to do a couple other things also. First, get an old rag and put it under the spark plug hole and remove the spark plug. Will probably have oil flowing out the hole. Let sit for 5 minutes. Second, put another old rag (first one is...

See if this manual answers your questions, if not post back. https://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Kawasaki-Service-and-Repair-Manuals/FH451V-FH480V-FH500V-FH531V-FH541V-FH580V-FH601V-FH641V-FH661V-FH680V-FH680V-FH721V-KAWASAKI-SERVICE-REPAIR-MANUAL--99924-2078-01.pdf

Please post the model and serial numbers from under the seat, as there are a half dozen different units available.

Not sure because we don’t know what engine and charging system you are talking about. Please post all engine numbers, along with the problems you are experiencing so we can better help you.

If I’m reading that number correctly the engine was built in 2009. Please double check for me. Look on the valve cover or shroud for stamped numbers. There should be three separate numbers, a model (6 digits), type (4 digits-2 digits) and code (6 to 8 digits). The first two digits of the code...

Post all engine numbers, with them we can get close to age.

I’m getting emails, in fact sometimes I get more than one about the same reply. At times I will have a dozen Emails and when I log in find that three or four threads I’m involved in and the replies don’t add up.

With a lot of cussing and swearing. You have to disassemble almost half the unit. I did one last summer for a customer who did not what to take it to the Honda shop. After I got a service manual from a buddy, I told the guy it would be minimum 2 hours labor maybe more, he says I don’t care do...

This engine has an internal governor system, not an air vane governor. On an AutoChoke system it does have an air vane, but this one is used to partially open the choke when the engine is starts. The the AutoChoke thermocoupler, mounted behind the muffler, will fully open the choke as the...

I would check the battery first. If you have a VOM check the voltage at the battery with the key in the start position. If the voltage reads less than 10 VDC I would be replace the battery. Make sure the battery is fully charged.

Any nonwater soluble degreaser or carb cleaner. I would stay away from mineral spirits or paint thinner.

Yes, it could be any of those, but I do over 100 of those engines a year and the most common problem is the float seat. If it hasn’t been looked at in 10 years I’m sticking to the seat.

The only updated spring comes in a kit and the entire kit, pulleys, tensioner arm, belt and spring should be installed. They need to even drill new holes in the deck for the new tensioner arm. If I was you. I would take the model and serial numbers for your unit to another dealer and ask them...

Used the Honda site. Give me a couple of pics of the entire unit and I’ll see if I can locate a cable.

Ok, that was what I needed. Know that I know which carb we are dealing with, I think your problem is a swelled float needle seat. This is not allowing enough fuel to enter the float bowl, which will not allow it to choke or prime properly. I suggest you clean and rebuild the carb with these...

Nope, that is the bar code. Next to the rear adjuster or under the bagger cover.

Here is the service manual for your engine. Check over the section on governor linkage and see it you have everything hooked up correctly. If you haven’t found the problem, post back with some pictures of the throne and governor linkages...

That is an engine number which I don’t know how to decipher. I use the one one the deck. 20333 will be on top of decal and serial number will be below it.

Plus, if you have any problems who will service it for you?

The corrosion is an obvious problem, as it is offering a high amount of resistance which will lead to overheating. I would start by cleaning all those connections and make sure no corrosion is left behind. After you finish cleaning I recommend that you get a tube of di-electric grease and make...

That is not the serial number, please check the decal on the deck. That model used two different engines.

Might be, but that is OPE stating they are compatible, not Kohler. Any excessive slop between the two gears is going to cause premature wear or gear jamming. It’s up to you if your a betting man.

Please post the mower model and serial numbers, so we can see what you are talking about.

Please teach me something, who says they are interchangeable?

Look on the valve cover for model, type and code numbers for this engine. The decal you posted is just an EPA sticker and doesn’t help much.

Being a European model, there is not much available for us in the US to help you with. Hopefully one of the guys on your side of the pond will chime in.

The return line may contain air, because it only returns fuel and fuel vapors to the tank from the carb.

First, you cannot replace a 10 tooth starter with a 9 tooth starter. Teeth between the starter bendix and flywheel ring gear will not mesh properly. Second, acceptable voltage drop depends on a couple of things. Age of the battery, temperature, run time, charge. I would take the fully...

On this site go to the homepage, scroll down to market place, private party ads.

You are going to have to get someone to find the numbers for you. Without them we can give you a good answer, because it could be a variety of causes. Both engine numbers and unit numbers if possible.

All I can suggest is to use OEM filters when ever possible. I get flak every time I say this, but as a servicing tech I’ve only once had a problem, which was a manufacturer defect. I just want to make sure my work is not compromised by an unknown product. The choice is yours.

Used this number GJAEA5781751

Go to Sears Part Direct and type in your model number. Under parts you should find a schematic drawing.

I suggest you go to this website and contact Kawasaki, as you engine is not supported anymore. https://www.kawasakienginesusa.com/contact-us.html

What do you expect with your immature posts. He’s the third one you’ve done this to and if you don’t clean up your act, I and others will soon follow. As you say “ I don’t care if this offends you”.

Those vent tubes should have a one way valve to prevent that. Saw it twice last summer. Only solution is to replace the tank.

I wouldn’t touch it, be find another authorized Kohler repair shop. That one is too lazy or doesn’t have a clue to help you.

Give us the engine numbers and we should be able to get you a service manual.

Being confined at home most of the day, that’s the one place I can’t get to. It’s been decided that I would do service calls only, so I pick up parts I may need and never thought of that. Thank you.

IL, please teach me something. I looked in my NKG cross reference and couldn’t find that Kohler plug number.

Could be a couple of things. When was the last time the drive belt was changed? Have you checked the idler pulleys to make sure that one isn’t bad? Is your free wheeling control stuck over on one side? These are things I would be checking before say bad hydro.

You have a variable speed unit which uses two belts and a variable pulley. On these units even though the belts look good they many be the cause of your problem. If your belts are three or more years old, I recommend changing them. They most be change as a set. Post back if you have other...

Whether it is a counterbalance or rod and crankshaft problem, the OP must solve the fuel in oil problem. This can be done at the lowest cost. After that he will have to decide how to proceed.

Not a problem, let us know when you get it running.

Once you learn how to quickly tip most mowers don’t make a mess. Go to your local Goodwill store or a thrift shop and get a 12 X 12 X 2 cake pan to catch the oil. Sometimes under those units with a short fill tube, I lay a piece of cardboard under the pan to catch any mess. I do have an...

Sorry I need all numbers when dealing with Honda, so I’m not the one to ask about cross referencing.

16100-ZOL-862 is the carb assembly and should cost about $16.00

No, not all 8 hp engines use the same carb. If you can take some close up pics of the carb it would help us help you.

This manual may help you out. https://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Kawasaki-Service-and-Repair-Manuals/FD620D-FD661D-KAWASAKI-SERVICE-REPAIR-MANUAL.pdf

I would suggest any good repair shop in your area. Most will have junkers laying around.

See if you can open this manual? http://resources.kohler.com/power/kohler/enginesUS/pdf/tp_2379.pdf

Thank you. I’ve been working on and teaching small engine repair for 50+ years and I’ve never heard the choke circuit referred to as enrichment circuit. Learned something new today. Please post the model and serial numbers for your engine and a description of the problem. Different carbs do...

If you can get it and I’ll go to another website, be back later better half is sending me on a service call.

Missing wheel key?

Yes, it is the full service manual.

I would say the pins are not in the grooves. Did you test the action before screwing the paddles on? Install lower half first and test, should only move about 3/4”, then stop.

Try this website and go under Kohler. https://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/

Go to this website and type in your model and serial numbers. https://www.shoplawnboy.com/Comergent/en/US/adirect/Toro?cmd=ToroLBOnlineModelLookup

It should down load, check you download folder. I’ll stay here for an answer, and if it doesn’t work I’ll send it another way.

Personally I would not recommend greasing these gears. It will accumulate debris and lead to premature ware.

Sec. 12 of this manual talks about how to grind valves to set clearance. https://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Kohler-Service-and-Repair-Manuals/Kohler-Service-Repair-Manual-K91-K141-K161-K181-K241-K301-K321-K341.pdf

Politics, I thought we were talking color coding of sockets?

Please do not attempt to do this, even if you find them. It will only shorten the life of your spindles, pulleys, belts and bearings.

Please don’t double post, as this will only get very confusing for everyone.

Maybe this manual will help you out. https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B6NaqjIxWV1yZHlwUk9CWlNwYVE

I’m not going to put a lot of money on these, but it might help you. https://www.jackssmallengines.com/jacks-parts-lookup/part/snapper/7016215sm?gclid=eaiaiqobchmi-muftnfh6aivov_jbx1a4avceaqybsabeglddpd_bwe...

Hooks into the deck and will swivel around until you hook the spring up.

If it was a Democratic plot, then one would be blue and the other red, not orange. When you ask which drawer, I have to ask which tool box. I have 6 at this time. One mechanic’s box at home and one at the shop. One dedicated to each of these, plumbing, electrical, woodworking. A bucket boss...

Please post all engine numbers, which will help us see what you have.

There should be an ID tag with a full model and serial numbers. Posting this will help us. If you don’t find it please post a couple of pictures.

If you love at the diagram you posted it shows you where the hook is attached to the deck. You also need part number 8, the extension spring, which will go between the hook and the tensioner arm. The diagram shows you how they go together.