Recent content by ILENGINE

I did the same thing in May of this year. Cost me 8 stitches in my right forearm.. And the funny thing is this happened 3 days after talking to a guy that lost the tip of his thumb at the knuckle doing the same thing we did.

592058A shortblock $729.99 90 day warranty Complete engine 33S877-0019-G1 $925.27 2 year warranty

the hose routing in the picture is correct. the hose closes to you on the carb is the inlet, and the one farther from you is the outlet to the primer and then primer back to tank The WA-218 is superceded to WA-227 which is showing as NLA The OEM carb is 530069647 which subs to 530071639...

No Gas line with filter goes to inlet side of carb(nipple carb body), Carb outlet to inlet side of primer(short nipple) and outlet primer(long nipple) return to tank. Basically tank to carb, carb to primer primer to tank

Yep, On the Honda GCV or GC engines with the Hondabond plan on replacing the valve cover because it will get destroyed in the removal process.

People need to start dropping off the junk batteries at home depot. I have a couple out of electric push mowers from a few years back that are the size of car batteries.

My Briggs distributor is showing them on backorder.

lineup flywheel timing mark to timing mark on ignition module. and Camshaft timing mark to crankcase timing mark.

Did you install an OEM belt or a generic might fit but doesn't belt.

Installed at the factory for a battery system is a very good possibility. His engine does come with the steel ring gear flywheel and list an electric starter on the IPL.

They make anticorrosion spray for battery terminals, but i would also be checking what the voltage is at the battery with the engine running full rpm with a volt meter to make sure that it isn't overcharging the battery which can also cause the issue that you are having. If the charge voltage...

09P602-0095-F1 I suspect that the float level in carb is too low causing improper filling of the carb.

True, but the picture posted by the OP at post #3, the regulator only has one mounting bolt not two for the 698315

Yes Have seen the with or without gasket, and have use RTV but prefer gaskets myself if handy.

Lets start with more information since Murray has been manufactured by 4 companies using 4 different engines. So the model number of the mower as well as the model number information from the engine. The engine model number is not the numbers on the recoil starter. Depending on brand of...

Vibration could be anything from unbalanced blades, to bad bearing in a spindle or idler pulley, to a bad spot on the deck belt.

The close I can match it is the 794360 but just searching the 357667 comes up with them using 2 different regulators on the tri-circuit stator and a third which doesn't fit the tri-circuit system. The 794360 uses a single bolt mount. And the 798315 which is a two bolt mount

It is not all lost on you. Part of the issue also is the Briggs IPL shows the tri-circuit stator which would be correct for this application, but has a mistake in the IPL concerning the regulator. They are showing the 10-16 amp regulator/rectifier which is wrong for this engine, because that...

Do to the compression release there is no way to get an accurate compression. The standard procedure is to do a leakdown test to check for leaking components that will cause low compression.

In this guys application it is recoil start with no electric start therefore there is no battery to supply power to the regualtor. this engine is supposed to have the batteryless regulator to supply power to the clutch without a battery.

Could ACR but could also be the overlap of the valves at TDC exhaust where the intake valve starts to open as the exhaust is closing.

Because if they leave the inner bearing seal out with this style of bearing the grease can push the outer seal out of the bearing which causes even bigger issues. Just the wrong type of bearing for a greasable application

For the most part it is a feel good measure. Really does nothing for the bearings, but in the case of the Stens JD spindle causes side loading on the bearings causing failure. If you grease them after installation they don't fail. But by their instructions the grease actually pushes the...

And the regulator in the OP picture is not the regulator that Briggs says fits that engine. That engine even has a different stator to regulator connection than Briggs claims. Looks like the 794360 regulator with the tri circuit stator. Not the 10-16 amp stator as what Briggs says fits the...

That wouldn't happen to be the JD spindle that their instructions say to pump like 10 pumps of grease into the spindle prior to installation and then the bearings fail within a couple hours.

That engine calls for the 845907 regulator. Unless they changed something from they previous superceded part numbers that regulator is for the electric start engines which would need to supply 12v to the regulator to make it work.

I have a case of the Walbro carb cleaner thinking it would be safe for the check valves. Nope. Still damaged the valves and renders the carb useless.

And this is what they are using to get around the lifetime warranty Damage to cutting equipment by way of contact with rocks, sand or other objects, rust & corrosions, and natural discoloration of paint or other materials due to ultraviolet light are not covered.

It is contained inside of the brass insert in the center of this picture. Stick closed won't start, stick open won't prime. That is the outlet check valve, main fuel nozzle. Some have an inlet check valve that can cause other start/run issues.

It has been my experience that the spray carb and choke cleaners cause the rubber check valves to swell stopping fuel flow to the main jet and cause a no start issue. Or sticks open and will prevent priming because the primer will suck air.

Rapid throttle down causes a backpressure in the muffler and the in rush of air ignites the unburnt fuel vapors in the mufffler, same as it does when shut off at idle.

I think I shipped him back to Amazon last week. Started with drive shaft yokes that had the splines machined to the wrong spec, and then broke my 12K trailer winch trying to winch a mower onto the trailer the same day.

And two of those were the same mower on the same day. Never left the shop between repairs.

Oil/grease contamination on flywheel and crankshaft taper, or improperly torqued nut/bolt. the key only times the flywheel to the crankshaft. Doesn't have any function in holding the flywheel in place.

A few years back briggs had to pay me warranty for replacing 5 of the 5409K solenoid due to failing after 3 starts.

My experience has been Scag and Kubota require a warm body in the seat. And was just working on a old Simplicity rider yesterday that required seat use to crank

Key looks fine. make sure to properly torque the nut back down. Will need actual model number from engine cover to get you the correct torque spec.

If you remove the nut/bolt and the starter cup you should be able to see the keyway slot and see if the key is straight or offset, or completely out of alignment. the older point system engines wouldn't fire if the key was sheared but the electronic ignition doesn't depend on timing to fire.

I would be removing the flywheel to check the key long before I would remove the engine to check the camshaft timing. That can only get out of time two ways and both are idiot caused. But hitting something with the blade will shear the flywheel key and will still fire the spark plug just not...

And that knocking at start up and under load and also probably during shutdown but fine other times is the symptom of loose engine mounting bolts.

Can totally agree on the Kawasaki engines. Seems like half the mowers i have worked on the last couple years have been Kaw. Haven't even put in a parts order with the Kohler distributor yet this year. Just not enough parts needed to pay the freight when I can add them to another order with...

Star on the dealer lookup site. Change equipment to engine and then enter the prefix dash and then the serial number. (GJAEA-2930957) Pops up the model in yellow in this case and then you can choose between models with that serial number and click the next column for the suffix.

That is a GCV160A engine that calls for the 16100-Z0L-853 carb The peparts site only goes back like 10 years. prior to that can be looked up by the dealers on the internal dealer site.

Most clutches don't come apart easily and the bearings will not be replaceable in that clutch. Normally not a standard size bearing even though the number on the bearing seal will make it look like it is. Most techs are now replacing the OEM failed clutches with the Xtremeope clutches...

Melting would indicate heat. Heat will come from high resistance. What solenoid are you using by part number and are they OEM or some Amazon chinesium knockoff.

Something to check is on some of those engines the hydraulic lifters will flat spot on the bottom and make a knocking noise, And in some cases may come and go. Requires removing the valves and pushrods and pulling out the lifters to check the bottom for a wear line.

And which of the 5 or 6 different Kohler named engines with a few thousands variations do you have. Engine Model and spec number please.

If you do not have battery voltage at the pto after shutting off the blades then I would doubt the pto switch. What I would consider is the bottom bearing on the pto clutch is seizing when hot keeping the blades engaged and then releasing after cooling.

Some of the fixed timing engines do require that one of the modules be installed upside down from the other. I think it was number 2 that goes upside down.

that is most likely the grommet for the fuel tank vent. connects to a 90 degree elbow and then a line to the vent that sides to the right upper corner of the carb connected to the area with the carb adjustment screws.

Little more information. The bolt that holds the flywheel pulley on the crankshaft is missing, and doesn't appear to be even installed from the factory. The other side of that pulley has no evidence of the bolt or washer being loose. The belt pulley rides above the axle in the picture so...

What is your guys accessment on this broken crankshaft on this one year old walk behind string Trimmer

Since it started and ran after correcting the battery issue then the ignition is most likely fine. And if it is charging the battery and not discharging it while it sets unused then that diode should also be fine.

I would bet that you are not getting fuel. so bad injector, air in the fuel system, bad injection pump. fuel shutoff not working preventing injection pump from pumping.

So is this a push mower, riding mower, Z turn, Side by side, tiller, snow thrower, or something else. We are guessing what piece of equipment that you have that won't start. How about providing us with a model number so we can see what won't start

Glad to of helped. And hopefully the reverse connected battery didn't do other electric damage. Sometimes it can damage the voltage regulator as well as destroy the ignition modules.

That actually looks more like a flyweight from the internal governor than a magneto part. https://www.searspartsdirect.com/product/3j6fbcyg9z-0071-143/id-30591 So if found external to the engine I would say the governor has been changed and somehow the weight from the governor got stuck some...

Lets start with the model and spec of that engine since the Courage 20 was made as a single and V twin... I am thinking you have the single but need to be sure. And please go back and delete your other duplicate post to help avoid confusion with people trying to answer in two separate threads.

Lets start with the model type and code of the Briggs engine that is one the mower now. If flat head should be stamped into the blower housing above the spark plug. If OHV then will be on the valve cover.

Some of those type setups used a separate switch to close the contacts for the starter that acted as a safety swithch. Basically to prevent somebody from hitting the start button without pulling the safety bail. But in the case of the OP I have also seen the contacts go bad in the start...

This may sound stupid but make sure that you didn't connect the battery backwards. It will cause the starter to spin in reverse if it doesn't cause other electrical failures.

The upper cable is the choke control the lower cable on the engine is the throttle control. And the small black hose with the single connected fuel filter is the fuel tank vent due to EPA stuff and the filter prevents dust from being pulled into the system.

You are missing the governor control spring. it will connect at the hole by your third nuckle and the bracket to the left. It looks like the bracket by your hand were the spring would connect looks like it may have become badly bent in the process of elminating the spring from its hole.

There should be a switch associated with the kill bail handle that is most likely not working. That switch has to activate in order for the electric start system to function.

Looks like the CH16 used the DSAM system on certain specs. That DSAM had been replaced with the 12 707 01-S DSAI kit whch uses the 12 584 17-S module

I tend to drink Keystone light or Saluki Dunkledog

Actually you will find that the majority of mowers have non greaseable bearings, and a lot of the mowers with grease zerks will also have sealed bearings, so it becomes a feel good action on the part of the owner. Also non greaseable bearings are not limited to homeowner models, there are a...

max RPM of push mower engine is dictated by length of the blade. Blade tip speed cannot exceed 19,000 fpm which translates to 3627 for 20 inch blade 3454 for 21 inch blade and 3298 for 22 i.ch blade, but max speed can also be lower when dictated by the mower OEM>

Most likely the spindles contain sealed bearings

Make sure the engine isn't turned upside down and setting on the flywheel, because the flywheel will move enough to prevent the cover from going on. Also make sure the oil pump driver on the camshaft is timed into the pump and camshaft which can also prevent everything from mating up.

There is no regulator. that system uses a diode(bump with shrink tube above connector) to convert AC to basically a half-wave DC to recharge the battery. And the other wire is AC for the headlights. Basically for mowers without an electric pto clutch the system to recharge the battery is...

Need time you use it and it won't restart after a couple minutes check to see if the choke is open or closed. Maybe something wrong with the bimetal thermostat that keeps the choke open when warm.

Or the engine has been replaced. I looked at the SR928 but it appeared to be a newer style. the same with the SR1028.

Take a look at the SR828 M280817B rider. It looks very similar.

Rivets I am thinking is should be the 247.288812 model with the 31c707-3346-g6 engine Looks like a 3-5 dual circuit stator which appears to be unregulated

I would be wondering about either the charging system, or a funky shorted cell in the battery. Had an issue years ago with my tractor where you would flip the key on the dash lights would come on and go through the glow plug sequence and as soon as you turned the key to start everything would...

Rivets I think this is the same guy that is looking to find out if the engine is cast iron bore or aluminum bore on his 9 hp powerbuilt which seems strange that the model number tag for the mower and also the model number riveted tag is missing from the engine.

Need to confirm either serial number or the model number of the engine, because that serial number is coming back to a SH265-3152 engine If you have the KT series 7000 engine then 1750 would be a good idle speed.

Failed Regen. Sounds like it has gone into limp mode. May need dealer intervention to connect the computer to force a regen if not something like a failed DPF.

Depending on when it was purchased could still have part of the 2 year warranty remaining and if so let MTD fix it.

that is the EPA number the numbers we seek are stamped into the blower housing usually above the spark plug but could be on a plate close to the rotating screen, or above the muffler.

Normally the governor linkage sits a fair distance from the flywheel. But it is possible to get the governor linkage snagged under the blower housing or metal shielding and will cause the issue that you describe. Make sure that the governor arm to throttle on the carb isn't stuck under...

Lets start with the model number information from the engine tag, and possibly the model for the mower so we can see what you are working on. Sounds like something is out of place for that to occur.

Welds look like bird poop. Now with that being said, with old rusty decks that are worn too thin and the rest is rust holding rust together, Bird poop is a compliment. As long as it works and holds together your weld repair is fine.

And if you go to have the battery tested, do not connect it to a jump pack or charger prior to testing. If the mower fails to start then remove the battery and have it tested. I have had cases where connecting a charger for even a second would override what was wrong with the battery that is...