Recent content by ILENGINE

Here you go Scrub https://peparts.honda.com/engines#/serial punch the numbers that you posted into the prefix serial number fields and there will be the complete parts information for your specific engine.

Scrub the Courage single line morphed into the 5400 series and the Courage twin became the 7000 and similar engine series. And to Chris if you think the Courage single was bad check into the OHC or Triad series. Used on Walker and Grasshoppers they had issues with the cylinder liners...

I would say GX390. the important numbers and letters are stamped into the side of the block. Will be 4-5 letters followed by 7 numbers, and then off to the side will be 3-4 more letters. Something like GJARA-1234567 and the something like A1A

28V AC gives you 14V DC which is what the battery charge rate should be about. So 20V AC is only putting out 10V DC to the battery. Something to make sure is that you are getting battery voltage to the regulator. Without at least 9-10 volts input will not turn on the regulator to output...

I suspect the OP ordered a 1/2 x 82 generic off the shelf standard length belt, which will actually measure 81 1/2 if measured

Or the wobbling carb has cracked the plastic intake manifold and is now sucking air and bypassing the throttle system.

I think it was Toro that built the deck with the small hole for the crankshaft and the hole for the oil drain plug but later removed the hole for the oil drain so you couldn't access the drain plug if you wanted to. Not too many years later Briggs removed the oil drain provision completely...

I would be checking the vent hose on top of the unit for blockage. Sounds like pressure buildup when the oil warms up. Some just have a short hose with a umbrella type valve on top others have a hose that goes to a small oil tank

If it is bent again, look through the valve spring and see if the end of the valve guide(looks like metal tube around valve) is close to the valve spring keeper. When Briggs engines overhead they like to migrate the valve guides toward the keepers until they prevent the valve from opening...

Have you removed the valve cover again and make sure the push rods are still in place and not bent again because the valve guide has migrated outward preventing the valve from fully openings. And could also be possible issue with a blown head gasket between the push rod cavity and the...

From a dealer standpoint the number of failed Courage singles due to loose cover bolts or failed counterbalance system is a blip on the radar. Less than 1% failed due to loose cover bolts or counterbalance systems which is below the national average failure rate for warranty claims across all...

So the sequence of events was fix the carb, drain the oil, start engine without oil, shut off and then added oil, but now won't make a full engine rotation. If you started the engine without oil even for a few seconds can cause serious engine damage, and if I have the sequence correct the...

Scrub the Intek single uses a crossflow head so the intake is on the bottom which is where the ACR is located.

I am just a Kohler dealer and don't have any more skin in the game than Bert does. And your well documented failure was a few hundred engines out of a production runs of several million. so the percentage of failure even with the problems was not that wide spread. And if it was such a failed...

I personally had 7 Kawasaki twins come in the shop this summer with the number 1 rod broke. How many other people have broken number 1 rods on Kawasaki twins this year and the previous years.

Chris your post has so much misinformation it is a figment of your imagination. Yes there was loose cover bolts issues, Yes there was some early starter issues, and yes they had some counterbalance issues. Most were ;limited to the first series of engines, and after getting the bolt torque...

Bert there was a little bit of Craftsman product a few years ago, and they did market under the Stanley name for a short period which they treated as a separate dealer agreement, but was still sold exclusively through Walmart. There could of been some production for other brands, but they didn't...

10J902-0139-E1 is a valid model number but the video still applies.

Walmart killed Murray by trying to demand more products at a cheaper price. Murray was always designed to be a Walmart exclusive product(no market outside Walmart unlike MTD and Husqvarna). Their territory was the southeastern 1/4 of the US. Basically framed by the South of I-70 and east of...

It would be easier to find what you are looking for it we had the model number information for that Briggs engine.

Had a experience this summer on a Intek twin that started surging after replacing the leaking sump gasket. I had put too much tension on the governor arm when setting static governor setting, that induced a too sensitive governor issue. Went back and readjusted governor and all was well.

Most of the Gravely Z turns that I have worked on use steering dampers, and those don't tend to return to neutral without some effect or at least quickly. Without them the steering is so sensitive that it would feel jerky every time you hit a bump.

Most people don't think about the bucket style engine since Kohler is the only one that uses it and on one engine series.

Could be a drive belt issue, and make sure to replace them with OEM belts both at the same time if that is what you are needing. could also be a stuck variable speed pulley. If the center section between the two belts doesn't move freely will not change speed. Also wear grooves in the...

Changing the cam is no different without the oil filter than with one. Just without the oil filter you may not have to deal with the oil pump and driver even though they may use the same camshaft. Or some engines were set up with the pump but have a recirculating cap instead of the normal oil...

I would be leaning toward a faulty ignition coil myself. The reason you are not seeing a wet plug is you are most likely not loosing spark. What you could be getting is the electronic equivalent of a sheared flywheel key. the new modules have spark advance and speed regulation characteristics...

The camshaft, I don't know if it used a gasket or could just use RTV sealant, and I would also replace the flywheel end seal since it could get damaged trying to reinstall the cover. And is easier to replace the seal after the cover is reinstalled.

Maybe post a picture of the cam gear with the dot and line so we can see what it looks like.

I don't see the compression release bump, but it also looks like there may be too much clearance in the valves. May just be an illusion but just seems loose especially the intake/bottom valve

Does the engine crank normally if you remove the spark plug. Also with the valve cover and spark plug removed rotate the engine by hand while watching the valves. the bottom valve should bump off seat shortly BTDC and then close which would indicate that the compression release is working. No...

I think the ACR confusion is due to the earlier versions of this style of engine which was the Courage single had a replaceable ACR mechanism, But the new 5400 series which is a similar style block doesn't have a replaceable ACR and would require complete cam replacement.

Intake on the single cylinder OHV engines because the compression release is located next to the camshaft gear, and the single cylinder OHV uses a crossflow head so the intake is on the bottom.

See if 13AH661F000 is close for a 1998 model year

The bearing in the sprocket could be stuck to the shaft, or in some cases they just get really sticky. May have to remove the clutch and then the sprocket and clean and relube the bearing.

And you have now contaminated the other pump with debris that can cause failure of that pump unit.

Check down on the side of the R hydro drive and make sure the toothed brake arm is releasing from the toothed brake gear. It sounds like the right brake isn't releasing.

The red is 150 and the white is 75 micron. I don't remember if the 691035 pleated is a 40 or a 60 micron filter.

I use the white pancake filters on gravity flow systems. The red just are not fine enough to prevent the stuff that is still big enough to cause float not closing issue. I use the pleated paper filter on fuel pump systems. I use to use the Briggs 691035 or the Kohler 24 050 13-s on...

I would say that are just different ratios. the 5 speed may actually be slower than the 3 speed.

The longer nipple on the primer which should be the one that the air shooting out is the tank return. In your above picture the nipple being held by your thumb is the line from the tank with the fuel filter. the nipple being held by your finger is the one that connects to the short nipple on...

It goes in the hole just below where the other linkage connects to the governor arm.

On some engines the valves are not square with the block. Has to do with swirl patterns and other high tech stuff dealing with engine design.

And follow that up with inspecting the belts for missing chunks or something stuck in the pulley grooves.

At one time the dealers were told it was made by Quaker State.

I think I would be checking head gasket, as well as valve clearances. Possibly a loose valve seat. Could also be an issue with valve lift due to a camshaft lobe issue.

Your answer could be directly related to which version of the 50,000 engines that Briggs made. We really can't help you without a model number from the engine.

Companies can only suggest that you use their oil, but cannot void a warranty over using what ever oil you decide to use as long as it meets the requirement specs. So Pennz 10w30 is fine.

I wish Stens would stock that carb, It seems like that is the most popular part number for carb replacement on Stihl trimmers.

This may be relative to your issue with the stalling It is a link to the Kohler SB-348 service bulletin relating to stalling on your series of engine...

It is Husqvarna but the model number that his listed is actually what Husqvarna refers to a s sku which i this case is missing a digit. But looking up the 322 L I come up with this units by year so now you need to figure out year...

Which Kohler 21 hp engine do you have. Model and spec numbers would be most helpful.

From my research it looks like that bag full could be 450-500 pounds

You could be right, but how much does 54 cu/ft of shredded leaves weigh. May not be dragging around a lot of weight.

the model and serial number sticker tag is normally below the trigger on the fuel tank. Seems like it was the same tag as the emissions tag but I could be wrong.

The are a square headed bolt with ridges like a wheel stud. they are pressed in and can be knocked out Here is a picture of what it looks like. https://www.ebay.com/p/2116541697

I have never used a 14 mm on a blade bolt in my 23 years of experience. I take that back had a few customers with JD that used 14 mm for the side bolts for the 3 bolt mounts. Never used 14 on craftsman and still don't even on the new ones manufactured this year.

/I think you are overthinking it. Most US push mowers use either a 9/16 or 5/8 hex wrench. And if the 5/8 fits then use it. About the only place I find metric blade bolts and nuts is on Kubota and JD.

1995 model 125-262c302

Is the flywheel turning when you try to start. Can you turn it by hand. What happens if you remove the spark plug and then try to turn it

the piece with the flat sides on it in the center with the bolt hole is just pressed in and can be removed with a punch and hammer. The main thing is to make sure that the fingers on the friction disc face the same direction

Page 4 of the owners manual under stopping. Stopping 1.If possible, remove load by disengaging all PTO driven attachments .2. Position throttle control between half and full throttle; stop engine .3. Do not allow engine/application to be left unattended with key ON (RUN position) for long...

Kohler recommends that their engines be shut off at full throttle. It has to do with the fact on the Kohler engines the fuel shutoff solenoid only blocks the high speed jet but still allows the low speed jet to draw fuel. That fuel is being passed through the engine since there is no spark and...

Can you post a picture of both the old and new clutch. I have seen a few that have the double flat plug with the bolt hole in it be on the wrong end and in some cases you can remove it and stick in into the opposite end. The thing you have to watch is make sure is that the clutch friction disc...

As I mentions about the clipped trigger in an earlier post the Hall effect trigger is built into the ignition coil (module) If you have the rust removed from the mounting studs on the engine and the kill wire disconnected and still have no spark then you either got a bad spark plug or bad...

You need ignition module 398811 which you need to be aware that the new module looks totally different than the old style like you have. The clipped trigger is now built into the module itself.

Didn't happen to reverse the lines on the new primer did you The long nipple goes to the tank, and if reversed can cause the issue that you are seeing. Could also be the metering diaphragm isn't working or the diaphragm valve isn't sealing

Ok when I pulled the MTD model number it shows a single cylinder engine

Can you give us the model number information of the engine so we can see which brand, and style of engine that you are working on. Are you sure that you have the aluminum ring gear and not the steel. The parts diagram that I looked at showed the replacement aluminum ring gear, but when I look...

Cooling air flow or ducting change but mostly just a selling point.

Correct. I just normally remove the screws holding the old module and then pull the point wire out without removing anything else. If you decide to remove the points and condensor most of the kits come with the plug that you drive into the point plunger hole to seal it.

Went back and reviewed all your pictures from the beginning. And it looks like that mower should of been set up with a primer type system. That is the reason the extra parts don't fit. What is throwing me and everybody else off in your case is the mower has the incorrect carb. You have a...

Appears the parking brake isn't stuck, but I would start by inspection the two drive belts. One from the engine to the variable speed pulley, and the other from the variable speed pulley to the big transmission pulley. Check to make sure something isn't jammiing the pulleys like a stick or...

I think this is your broken part https://www.amazon.com/John-Deere-Original-Equipment-MIA12482/dp/B00JJ76SP6 And this should be the link to the service manual...

There should be a series of numbers in front of the numbers that you posted.

Huskee is the trade name for mowers sold at Tractor supply. They were manufactured by Murray, MTD and Husqvarna over the years. Can you post the model number information off of the engine. Some of the model numbers can be narrowed down on at least MTD products using the engine informaiton.

Are you sure it isn't 6-1 n now as in this thread from 2018 https://www.lawnmowerforum.com/threads/error-code.48682/

Some engines run clean enough depending on number of hours ran that don't dirty the oil. With Briggs engines and being older the most common oil leak issue would be the sump gasket.

The spacer is stuck/welded itself to the pulley.

Briggs part number of the new module is 591420 Which is the magnetron style module.

That is the new style OEM spindle assembly. If you order a new spindle assembly there is a notice in the box talking about not needing the spacer with the new spindle/bearing setup

Post the model and serial number from under the seat so we can see which one of the various drive system that MTD has used over the years is on your mower.

Make sure that one of the valve covers isn't leaking and dripping down on the muffler. Doesn't take much to create a heck of a smell and smoke screen.

I would say even thought the gas was drained there was some residual gas that has now gummed up the carb. Will require a good cleaning of the carb, and would be a good idea to install a carb repair kit.

Some of the shift linkages has a threaded end where it screws into a barrel end that is connected to shift arm on the side of the frame where you could remove the hair pin clip on the transmission end and turn the rod to adjust the linkage length. You may not have that adjustable rod because...

I would lean toward running on one cylinder. When it starts running poorly then shut it off and remove the spark plugs, and reinstall them in the boot and hold them to a bare spot of metal on the engine and have somebody crank the engine and watch for spark. Or get two of those inline blink...

You could try adjusting the linkage to where it is setting in the neutral detent position and see what happens. If it still jumps and jerks going forward than the shift collar and forward gear and at this point the reverse gear are worn and would need to be replaced.

Part of the issue when running them dry is they are not totally dry and the small amount of fuel left in the fuel bowl gums up the works.

Have you checked the drive belt

Does it do the same thing when you release the clutch/brake. I am thinking more of a safety switch issue normally the seat switch thinking nobody is in the seat so the safety system shuts down the engine.

On MTD gear mowers the speed selector just determines what position the variable pulley is in. It has been my experience that you can speed up without clutching but need to use some pressure on the clutch pedal to move it to a slower speed selection.

The white stator wires can go on either outside prong on the regulator. The purple wire goes on the center B+ terminal which connects to battery power.

In my area Walmart has a $10 core charge, and Menard's is $7. Refund when old battery brought in.

Jerald, most lawn mower repair shops are 2-8 weeks behind and no sign of slowing down.

Most lawnmowers take a U1 battery. The main difference between all of them is the cold cranking amps (CCA) and if the positive is on the left or right when the terminals are held toward your chest.

My only complaint with the battery operated stuff is it seems like they are discontinuing the batteries or other required components about 3 years or less from original manufacture and being replaced with newer items. So what is going to happen to all those battery tools with faulty batteries...

Got it figured out in the OP''s double post https://www.lawnmowerforum.com/threads/husqvarna-ride-on-mower-need-help.61850/#post-377831

Go to Husqvarna.com and click on support, then click on manuals, and type in cth180 no spaces. that should bring up a list of 30 items. go to the bottom of the last page which should be page 3 there is a listing for a 1999 model. I believe that is your mower.

If you put oil in with the balls that will be causing problems shortly when the balls stick and not return to the center for starting. You will pull the rope but nothing will happen.

The smaller tube going up by the fuel pump mount would be the vapor recovery line that would connect to the top of the fuel tank. It is a low vacuum line to draw fuel vapors for EPA requirements. Look at the top of the SV590 and it may have a removable plug in the same location as the fuel...

The starter drive has to be turned to where the flats are lined up to reach in there and get to the bolt head. Also need an extended reach Torx, can't be a short one. I think the Briggs tool is a 1/2 inch wobble socket in 1/4 in drive\ I don't remember having an issue with getting a torx...

If you have a lifter issue it sounds the same in that engine as it does in an automobile engine. The groove on the bottom of the lifter can have a more distinct clatter. I have never seen an issue with the cam on Kohler Command engines so my first thought is the dealer is fishing for more...

I would say it will need to slide back to clear the pump drive. May be able to leave the electric clutch on the engine when it is lifted out of the frame.

The statistical average for a riding mower is they are replaced every 4.5 years with an average if 138 hours of use,

It is the only way you will be able to get the blower housing out of the way to change the coils. Remove the fuel line and electrical connections and the electric clutch, and then there should be four bolts on the bottom which may be threaded into the engine block or could have nut on top.

Also over time all those links get bent, and then all the mounting holes wallow out leading to the deck being able to wobble front to back which leads to uneven cut as well as the deck hitting the engine pulley.