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I've had this since new. Like the title says 27 horsepower Briggs. About 275 hours. Bought it 5 years ago. Has new spark plugs, fuel filter, oil and filter, air filter also. You can't do any adjusting to the carburetor. When it gets to operating temperature it begins to surge up and down in RPM. As soon as you engage the PTO for the blade it smooths out and runs fine. Anybody else have this problem? Solution?

Ed Dowdy
Fithian IL

Is this happening at idle, MT, WOT, ALL?

It only happens at full throttle (mowing) and with the blade disengaged. Runs fine with the blade engaged and if throttled back to idle when not.

Ed

Sounds like the high end of the throttle needs adjustment. Can the high end speed be adjusted with the throttle cable/governor? What does the engine manual say? Can you get the pdf file of the engine manual from the briggs web site?

I don't know if it can be. I will see if I can get the .pdf.

Ed

Your symptoms point directly to the classic dirt in the idle circuit of the carb. Need to remove and clean the carb, and install a repair kit.

Sounds good. I see there are no adjustments on this one. I have no experience rebuilding a carb. Would it be possible for a novice to do without specialty tools?

Ed

You don't need special tools, just go slow, take pictures especially of linkages, and pay attention to the small things, and don't stop anything that you may need later. get some thin wire to push through all small openings and make sure they are clean. And use spray carb cleaner to back flush all passages.

Thanks very much for the advice!

Ed

Ordered the parts today!

Ed

:thumbsup:

eldowdy said:

I've had this since new. Like the title says 27 horsepower Briggs. About 275 hours. Bought it 5 years ago. Has new spark plugs, fuel filter, oil and filter, air filter also. You can't do any adjusting to the carburetor. When it gets to operating temperature it begins to surge up and down in RPM. As soon as you engage the PTO for the blade it smooths out and runs fine. Anybody else have this problem? Solution? Ed Dowdy Fithian IL

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Engine serge could be caused by a sticky or a defective needle and seed please check your carburetor
Regards
PJ

Thanks PJ,

I should have the repair kit for the carb in the morning!

Ed

Well the carb wasn't the culprit. I suspect the governor. When I am mowing this thing runs fine. It's when the blade PTO is disengaged at high engine RPM that it becomes a problem. I don't know anything about the governor. Only thing I can find in the available download it the parts description and diagram of the engine. Only thing I could see there was a reference number 227 for the governor lever. I couldn't find it on the schematic. Is there an adjustment to the governor I didn't see? It's a briggs 44Q900. Specific version is 0110. The plate where all the linkages attach is 222B. I'm a scratching my head.

Ed Dowdy

Cleaning a carburetor is not easy and most people miss steps. You can view 2 videos that cover cleaning a carb. See if you missed something.

Down and dirty: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VBL-BUj0c6E
More technical: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nAk_WDt3AD8

BlazNT said:

Cleaning a carburetor is not easy and most people miss steps. You can view 2 videos that cover cleaning a carb. See if you missed something.

Down and dirty: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VBL-BUj0c6E
More technical: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nAk_WDt3AD8

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I didn't miss anything. Good videos. Especially the Tecumseh engine on the snow blower. I think my snow blower needs some attention! Once I disengage the blade PTO at mowing engine speed it surges. If I throttle it back a tiny bit it runs OK. If I throttle it clear back to idle it runs OK. The only thing adjustable on this carb is the stop for the choke All it does is keep the choke from closing completely. Engine was manufactured in May of 2011.

Ed

I am wondering if the main jet is a tiny bit too small. Mostly because you said it has been going on since new. I know we don't really condone drilling the jets larger but it might just work in this case. Only other thing to would be adjust the goviner. Lots of videos on how to do it on YouTube.

BlazNT said:

I am wondering if the main jet is a tiny bit too small. Mostly because you said it has been going on since new. I know we don't really condone drilling the jets larger but it might just work in this case. Only other thing to would be adjust the goviner. Lots of videos on how to do it on YouTube.

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I did not say it has been going on since new. It started at the last year. It has a fuel servo at the bottom of the bowl. I just wonder if that is the problem. The carb was squeaky clean when I installed the repair kit.

Ed

BlazNT said:

I am wondering if the main jet is a tiny bit too small. Mostly because you said it has been going on since new. I know we don't really condone drilling the jets larger but it might just work in this case. Only other thing to would be adjust the goviner. Lots of videos on how to do it on YouTube.

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I see why you thought it was happening since new. I just meant I had purchased it new.

Ed

Try running some seafoam in the tank first, It should clean out any buildup. It will take a couple of tanks. Cheap easy 1st try solution, All gas is crap these days.

JD318420 said:

Try running some seafoam in the tank first, It should clean out any buildup. It will take a couple of tanks. Cheap easy 1st try solution, All gas is crap these days.

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I will give that a shot.

Ed

eldowdy said:

I will give that a shot.

Ed

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Is your choke separate from your throttle ?

hrdman2luv said:

Is your choke separate from your throttle ?

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No it's fine. It's in the idle circuit. One of the passages is blocked and can't be cleaned. Only remedy is replacing the carb. I think the cause was a combination of fuel with ethanol and Stabil in it. I have switched to Sea Foam. I am just living with the problem. It doesn't do it while I am mowing just when the blades aren't engaged. It's not worth near $300 to replace the carb, when a couple years down the road I may need to do it again.

I think you have one of the Nikki carbs on that one Single bowl type or the wide double barrel ?????

The wide one is tricky.... Oh that is not a good number. I can't bring that number in my Briggs account.

You posted 44Q900-0110 is that correct ?

Let us know Mon Ami ~!~!

Boudreaux In Eunice La. said:

I think you have one of the Nikki carbs on that one Single bowl type or the wide double barrel ?????

The wide one is tricky.... Oh that is not a good number. I can't bring that number in my Briggs account.

You posted 44Q900-0110 is that correct ?

Let us know Mon Ami ~!~!

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Yep! That's the one. It's large a two barrel carb. The only thing adjustable is the stop for the choke. I don't remember if that's a Briggs number or John Deere.

Merci,
Ed

There is one gasket you probably missed it is inside you have to take some screws out to get to it Did you have a gasket left over from the kit

check this vid out ~!~!

https://youtu.be/emsafzhGLC0

Boudreaux In Eunice La. said:

There is one gasket you probably missed it is inside you have to take some screws out to get to it Did you have a gasket left over from the kit

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I had no gaskets leftover. I have a photo record of the entire rebuild. The gasket that was mentioned in the Youtube video was changed. All parts were replaced in their original positions. And yes it is a Nikki carburetor. It's not running rich. It surges in fast idle when not under load. I don't have an ultrasonic bath to clean it in. From what I have been told by a very good Briggs tech, it probably wouldn't help anyway. But I appreciate your trying to help.

Ed

eldowdy said:

I had no gaskets leftover. I have a photo record of the entire rebuild. The gasket that was mentioned in the Youtube video was changed. All parts were replaced in their original positions. And yes it is a Nikki carburetor. It's not running rich. It surges in fast idle when not under load. I don't have an ultrasonic bath to clean it in. From what I have been told by a very good Briggs tech, it probably wouldn't help anyway. But I appreciate your trying to help.

Ed

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You have a Governor setting problem, and it will take a very high experience carburetor person to get it right. I had the same problem on my John Deere 345 years ago and I fixed the problem with a spring like the one you have on the governor-carburetor by attaching it so the governor will not move at high idle.

Been There said:

You have a Governor setting problem, and it will take a very high experience carburetor person to get it right. I had the same problem on my John Deere 345 years ago and I fixed the problem with a spring like the one you have on the governor-carburetor by attaching it so the governor will not move at high idle.

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I think you maybe on to something. Have you any pics of your solution. I have observed the governor link bounce around.

Ed

I thought I mentioned the governor in this thread. It might have been another post.

There is a tang that the spring attaches to that you can tweak a little bit and see if that helps. Try that then get back with us and I'll Tell you more on them things....

Boudreaux In Eunice La. said:

I thought I mentioned the governor in this thread. It might have been another post.

There is a tang that the spring attaches to that you can tweak a little bit and see if that helps. Try that then get back with us and I'll Tell you more on them things....

Click to expand...

I will, but it will have to wait till tomorrow.

Merci,
Ed

Ed, If you have the JD Technical Manual #TM113019, or a CD on the Z445 unit. If not, you need to get one. The paper book is about $100.00 and the CD version is about $45.00. One should never own any expensive equipment such as a lawn tractor without having the technical manual on how one can makes repairs.

If you have the technical manual, there is a section on how to adjust the "governor setting" and that is the first thing you should do here... get the governor setting so the engine doesn't "pulse" or one might call it..."surging".

I would bet the governor is out of it's normal setting and causing all the problem you have listed. However, making the setting on the governor is very tricky and should be done with some experience on this, if you get it all wrong it will cause the engine RPMs to go higher than the 3500 rpm rate and blow the engine.
Of course if you send it to a JD dealer, they will spend couple days... mostly looking at the tractor and scratching their head trying to figure out what they should. In the mean time they can figure how much you need to pay for all this, which may be up to $200.00 or more.

Been There said:

Ed, If you have the JD Technical Manual #TM113019, or a CD on the Z445 unit. If not, you need to get one. The paper book is about $100.00 and the CD version is about $45.00. One should never own any expensive equipment such as a lawn tractor without having the technical manual on how one can makes repairs.

If you have the technical manual, there is a section on how to adjust the "governor setting" and that is the first thing you should do here... get the governor setting so the engine doesn't "pulse" or one might call it..."surging".

I would bet the governor is out of it's normal setting and causing all the problem you have listed. However, making the setting on the governor is very tricky and should be done with some experience on this, if you get it all wrong it will cause the engine RPMs to go higher than the 3500 rpm rate and blow the engine.
Of course if you send it to a JD dealer, they will spend couple days... mostly looking at the tractor and scratching their head trying to figure out what they should. In the mean time they can figure how much you need to pay for all this, which may be up to $200.00 or more.

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I don't disagree I need the technical manual. Should I get that from the JD dealer I bought it from? Pulsing is probably a better term for the problem. Isn't the governor internal to the engine. Other than being broken. What kind of adjustments can be made? At some point I'm gonna have to check the valve clearance. It's got 385 hours on it.

Thanks for your input,

Ed

Been There said:

Ed, If you have the JD Technical Manual #TM113019, or a CD on the Z445 unit. If not, you need to get one. The paper book is about $100.00 and the CD version is about $45.00. One should never own any expensive equipment such as a lawn tractor without having the technical manual on how one can makes repairs.

If you have the technical manual, there is a section on how to adjust the "governor setting" and that is the first thing you should do here... get the governor setting so the engine doesn't "pulse" or one might call it..."surging".

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I should have read this a bit closer. I will be getting the TM

Thanks!

Ed

Ed, Does any of the pictures resemble your Brigg- 27 HP engine...with a governor?









There are a few YouTube videos on how to adjust a governor on a Griggs 17 HP engine. Check them out.

Been There said:

Ed, Does any of the pictures resemble your Brigg- 27 HP engine...with a governor?




There are a few YouTube videos on how to adjust a governor on a Griggs 17 HP engine. Check them out.

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I'd say it looks like it!

;-)

eldowdy said:

I'd say it looks like it!

;-)

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I see from the picture of your engine where there is some trouble in the linkage and spring tension.

OK, you are going try a little "tweaking" to the carburetor-governor setting. Take your thumb and bend the rod about "10%" that is connected to the end of the governor tip. Your thumb pressure is to push (bend) the rod towards the intake where it bolted to the left side head. This shortens the stroke and eliminates the play in the spring that connects to the middle of the governor arm. You can judge what is about ten percent and there is no play in that spring to governor arm. If that doesn't work, you can bend it back to its normal (straight) shape.

Ed Like I said earlier there is a tang that attached to the GOV spring that you can adjust.

Right under your carb there is a slot with a spring attached to it. Follow that down at a 45 degree angle and look to see where it is attached.

That part is the tang I was talking about about. Behind the front Green frame.
BTW you keep your mowers very clean ~!~!

Hope this helps Mon Ami ~!~!

Boudreaux In Eunice La. said:

Ed Like I said earlier there is a tang that attached to the GOV spring that you can adjust.

Right under your carb there is a slot with a spring attached to it. Follow that down at a 45 degree angle and look to see where it is attached.

That part is the tang I was talking about about. Behind the front Green frame.
BTW you keep your mowers very clean ~!~!

Hope this helps Mon Ami ~!~!

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I think I am going to try one more thing before I start bending linkage rods and tangs. I have been looking at several videos of various maintenance techniques on these carbs. One thing I don't recall doing, was changing the O-rings on the two jets. In fact as I recall one of them fell out (though that may not be the case. Could be faulty memory). I think I'll get those and change them out. I don't want to start tweaking anything just yet. Besides it mows just fine and runs very smoothly as long as the blades are engaged. It also runs smoothly at low idle. I should probably check to see that the governor and rod are set all the way clockwise. Anyway I need to order some parts and a technical manual!

Thanks for the help guys!

Ed

eldowdy said:

I think I am going to try one more thing before I start bending linkage rods and tangs. I have been looking at several videos of various maintenance techniques on these carbs. One thing I don't recall doing, was changing the O-rings on the two jets. In fact as I recall one of them fell out (though that may not be the case. Could be faulty memory). I think I'll get those and change them out. I don't want to start tweaking anything just yet. Besides it mows just fine and runs very smoothly as long as the blades are engaged. It also runs smoothly at low idle. I should probably check to see that the governor and rod are set all the way clockwise. Anyway I need to order some parts and a technical manual!

Thanks for the help guys!

Ed

Click to expand...

The governor system is like a cruise control system. It maintains the speed of your lawn mower or outdoor power products.
When powering a lawn mower, engine load can be affected by hills or height of grass.
Without a governor, you would need to adjust the throttle manually each time your lawn mower ran across a dense patch of grass. A governor does the job for you by detecting changes in the load and adjusting the throttle to compensate. When the engine "surges, pulsating," or lack of idle-speed control, it's usually the governor that is the problem.

The jet(s) O-rings doesn't have anything to do with the engine surges or pulsating as you mention, as carburetor jets only control the idle, rich and lean factors, and running ability. You will find this out as you continue to look elsewhere for the problem(s) to have stated.

In reply to your statement Been There......... Yes a carb can affect surging. I had a Nikki carb that I rebuilt and it surged when I put it back on. I had to take the welch plug out and re soak it to get it right.

Been There said:

The governor system is like a cruise control system. It maintains the speed of your lawn mower or outdoor power products.

The jet(s) O-rings doesn't have anything to do with the engine surges or pulsating as you mention, as carburetor jets only control the idle, rich and lean factors, and running ability. You will find this out as you continue to look elsewhere for the problem(s) to have stated.

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I know what a governor is. I know how this one works. I don't know enough about it to start bending things willy nilly. Think I can do a bit of experimentation without making permanent changes. I disagree that a jet being bypassed can't cause a pulsing. I'm not convince it's the cause here either. I do know the o-rings on the jets weren't changed the last time I had it apart. Since it's nearing 400 hours spending 20 bucks ain't gonna hurt.

Still I am very grateful for all the input!

Ed

I just had a thought (And yes it was painful!) I need to enlist my neighbor, so that I may observe what is happening when the blades are engaged. This thing run fine as long as they are.

Ed......

The tang is meant to be adjustable all engine companies make a tool to do that. All the tools are glorified needle nose pliers or small channel locks..

Please before you spend hard earned money on a tech manual follow my advice and just tweak that tang 1/8 of an inch to make the spring a tad tighter. I am a experienced Briggs mechanic and do this for a living. I have very good references on this site.

I wish IL Engine or Bert would chime in on here ~!~!

Why blame me ?
Generally I skim over problems I know how to fix particularly when folks who know what they are doing are already in the ring.

Now Eldowdy.
1) work out if it is the governor or the fuel system by manually moving the throttle rod , the one that connects the governor to the carb .
Start the engine and slowly move it to open up the throttle a little faster than the engine usually runs.
Hold it there for a minute or so.
If the engine runs fine with no missing then the problem is with the governor.

If the engine hesitates, stalls or misses the problem is usually in the fuel system.

Watch the exhaust for signs of black ( rich ) smoke.

Surging is usually caused by lack of fuel.
The engine starts to slow, so the governor allows the throttle to open further.
This creates a strong venturi dragging more fuel through the carb so then engine goes faster and the governor closes down the throttle, but because there is not enough fuel, the engine goes too so so the governor relaxes and allows the throttle to open up more.
And thus the cycle goes on at infinitum.
To prevent hysterises there is a damper spring fitted to the throttle rod, it s the long spring wrapped around the rod.
If this spring is missing, damaged or loose at one end the throttle rod moves to quick & overshoots in both directions but generally it settles down after 4 to 10 cycles

The balance between the governor closing the throttle & you opening the throttle is maintained by the governor spring.
When you open the throttle the spring stretches and pulls against the governor which is trying to close the throttle.
If the tension on this spring is insufficient then the governor will close down the throttle,but then the engine slows so it allows it to open against the spring , which is too weak so it closes the throttle , on & on at infinitum.

In the workshop , we run the engine on high idle then with the aid of a tacho ( oe better trained ear than mine ) we tweak the spring mounting to get the required speed, generally 3300 rpm to 3750 rpm.
This is what you are being advised to do.
On the sprint ( 3 to 5 hp ) engines it is the only way to adjust the engine speed.
I have an old Allan wrench with a slot cut in both ends to do this with which allows very precise movements .

Yes a allen wrench wrench with slots cut in it is a tang wrench that is very cheap to make. Everybody has one or two that's bad and a dremell tool will do the job perfectly.

Why spend 20 or 30 bucks for a briggs made tool ???

I'm pretty convinced it's the governor at this point. Between everybody's experienced advice it seems pretty clear. It's not missing. It's not running rich. There is no black smoke. There is no smoke at all. I will give that tang a little weak. I'll photograph it. So I can put it back if I need to.

Ed

eldowdy said:

I'm pretty convinced it's the governor at this point. Between everybody's experienced advice it seems pretty clear. It's not missing. It's not running rich. There is no black smoke. There is no smoke at all. I will give that tang a little weak. I'll photograph it. So I can put it back if I need to.

Ed

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Do the finger on the governor test first to confirm.
Test first
Fix second
Convinced is no substitute for diagnosed

bertsmobile1 said:

Do the finger on the governor test first to confirm.
Test first
Fix second
Convinced is no substitute for diagnosed

Click to expand...

Yeah that's what I figured I would do. I did something similar to that last year, but I was trying to control it by holding on to the rod. I understand it better now.

Ed

Here is a perfect example of a Brigg V-Twin engine with a pulsating governor by YouTube. Check it out at about the One minute mark on the video. Note the spring reaction on the governor arm and how it plays against the engine RPMs.

https://www.bing.com/videos/search?...FC1093D49CB89A1DB99CFC1093D49CB89A1&FORM=VIRE

Been There said:

Here is a perfect example of a Brigg V-Twin engine with a pulsating governor by YouTube. Check it out at about the One minute mark on the video. Note the spring reaction on the governor arm and how it plays against the engine RPMs.

https://www.bing.com/videos/search?...FC1093D49CB89A1DB99CFC1093D49CB89A1&FORM=VIRE

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Good vid. Mine doesn't pulse at low idle. It runs fine at low idle. It only pulses at full throttle with no load. Once the blades are engaged it runs fine. I'll take a look at the governor today and report back.

Ed

Information for the thread.
Carbs have 2 circuits.
The first circuit is the idle circuit. Bad name for it because it is the idle through the WOT(wide open throttle)
The second circuit is for a load. When you drive and or use the mower blades.

So with your carb surging at WOT, it is in your idle circuit. IE dirty carb or air leak.
When at WOT the engine cannot get enough fuel so governor slows the engine. Then when slow the throttle tries to get it to speed up. When it cannot run at speed the govinor slows engine. Repeat repeat repeat...

BlazNT said:

Information for the thread.
Carbs have 2 circuits.
The first circuit is the idle circuit. Bad name for it because it is the idle through the WOT(wide open throttle)
The second circuit is for a load. When you drive and or use the mower blades.

So with your carb surging at WOT, it is in your idle circuit. IE dirty carb or air leak.
When at WOT the engine cannot get enough fuel so governor slows the engine. Then when slow the throttle tries to get it to speed up. When it cannot run at speed the govinor slows engine. Repeat repeat repeat...

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This is exactly what ILengine and I were talking about last year. His answer (after a long and very helpful conversation) was to replace the carb. That's a good solution, except I don't want to spend $257.00 on a new carb. I rebuilt the carb I have. Problem is still there, but it only happens when not mowing. Like I said in a previous post. I didn't change the o-rings on the jets when I rebuilt the carb. I'm going to do that. I think ILEngine hasn't chimed in this time because he and I beat this horse to death last year. All the input here has really appreciated.

Ed

I too would replace the o-rings as carb cleaner in a can has a bad effect on them sometimes. If you know someone with an Ultrasonic jewelry cleaner you could borrow, you could put your carb there and clean it out even better. It seems to be the best fix for dirty carbs. I would buy a blown engine and pull the carb off it before I purchased an expensive carb.

I did an experiment today. Inspired by Bert. I don't have enough time to tear into anything today. I did this. I let the mower warm to operating temperature and start pulsing. As all the shields are in place I can't get my finger to the governor lever. So. I took a long thin screwdriver and put enough pressure on the governor lever to stop the pulsing. I then released the pressure. It took a couple minutes for the pulsing to start again. I did it again, but this time the pulsing didn't resume. I had to throttle it back to low idle and back up to wide open to get it pulsing again.

Here's my theory. I think the governor lever has slipped on the shaft and is not turning the shaft far enough clockwise. I'm probably wrong, but I thought I would throw that out there.

Ed

eldowdy said:

I did an experiment today. Inspired by Bert. I don't have enough time to tear into anything today. I did this. I let the mower warm to operating temperature and start pulsing. As all the shields are in place I can't get my finger to the governor lever. So. I took a long thin screwdriver and put enough pressure on the governor lever to stop the pulsing. I then released the pressure. It took a couple minutes for the pulsing to start again. I did it again, but this time the pulsing didn't resume. I had to throttle it back to low idle and back up to wide open to get it pulsing again.

Here's my theory. I think the governor lever has slipped on the shaft and is not turning the shaft far enough clockwise. I'm probably wrong, but I thought I would throw that out there.

Ed

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Excellent.
Not quite what the doctor ordered but as it ran smoothly when you were holding the shaft that confirms a governor problem.
They can be tricky little buggers to adjust but yes, start with resetting it and remember to do the clamp nut up tight.
Then if it still surges, get the Dremel tool out and modify an old Allan wrench.
Never met a real mechanic who did not have a 1/2 dozen incomplete sets of them but do take the effort to find one that will go in and have enough clearance to twist the anchor point.
I have a couple with the slot at different orientations to the short end cause no matter which one you grab, the handle will foul on something a natt's nacker before the exact right spot.

bertsmobile1 said:

Excellent.
Not quite what the doctor ordered but as it ran smoothly when you were holding the shaft that confirms a governor problem.
They can be tricky little buggers to adjust but yes, start with resetting it and remember to do the clamp nut up tight.
Then if it still surges, get the Dremel tool out and modify an old Allan wrench.
Never met a real mechanic who did not have a 1/2 dozen incomplete sets of them but do take the effort to find one that will go in and have enough clearance to twist the anchor point.
I have a couple with the slot at different orientations to the short end cause no matter which one you grab, the handle will foul on something a natt's nacker before the exact right spot.

Click to expand...

I have more Allen wrenches than I know what to do with and a Dremel tool. It will take longer to take all the protective covering off. Than to actually do the deed. It's all hidden under here.

Ed

Reset the governor today. Although I didn't notice any movement once I had it loose. Once I had everything tight. I let it run long enough I knew it should be pulsing. No longer pulsing. I was flabbergasted. Movement that was imperceptible to me had done the trick. I need to mow today. We'll see if it is still fixed after I'm finished.

Ed

eldowdy said:

Reset the governor today. Although I didn't notice any movement once I had it loose. Once I had everything tight. I let it run long enough I knew it should be pulsing. No longer pulsing. I was flabbergasted. Movement that was imperceptible to me had done the trick. I need to mow today. We'll see if it is still fixed after I'm finished.

Ed

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This is my post way back earlier in the thread that you had problems, and I wrote this,

"You have a Governor setting problem, and it will take a very high experience carburetor person to get it right. I had the same problem on my John Deere 345 years ago and I fixed the problem with a spring like the one you have on the governor-carburetor by attaching it so the governor will not move at high idle.:


However, I was wrong on..it would take a very high experience carburetor person to get it right... Been There done that.

Been There said:

This is my post way back earlier in the thread that you had problems, and I wrote this,

"You have a Governor setting problem, and it will take a very high experience carburetor person to get it right. I had the same problem on my John Deere 345 years ago and I fixed the problem with a spring like the one you have on the governor-carburetor by attaching it so the governor will not move at high idle.:


However, I was wrong on..it would take a very high experience carburetor person to get it right... Been There done that.

Click to expand...

I did have a governor setting problem, but it doesn't appear to have been the spring. I haven't mowed yet today. Coffee became more important. As soon as I do I will report back. Thanks again for everyone's input!

Ed

eldowdy said:

Reset the governor today. Although I didn't notice any movement once I had it loose. Once I had everything tight. I let it run long enough I knew it should be pulsing. No longer pulsing. I was flabbergasted. Movement that was imperceptible to me had done the trick. I need to mow today. We'll see if it is still fixed after I'm finished.

Ed

Click to expand...

When you reset the gov arm clockwise you tightened the spring ever so lightly. Glad you got it right ~!~!

Boudreaux In Eunice La. said:

When you reset the gov arm clockwise you tightened the spring ever so lightly. Glad you got it right ~!~!

Click to expand...

I would have thought I loosened it, but it worked in any case!

It is fixed. Thanks again one and all.

Ed

Boudreaux In Eunice La. said:

When you reset the gov arm clockwise you tightened the spring ever so lightly. Glad you got it right ~!~!

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I finally got it this morning. I did tighten it. Since the shaft had slipped counterclockwise. After I reset it clockwise. It allowed the lever to pull against the spring a bit more. Hence the spring is tighter. Like you said "ever so slightly". I wasn't seeing all I had done. That's why I said I thought I had loosened it.

Ed