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I'm going insane. I don't want to blame Ariens because they don't manufacture the engine nor the battery. My battery dies every other week for the last year now. First I replaced the battery a few months ago (Everstart), the next time I checked the charging system and found the regulator/rectifier was dead so I replaced that with an OEM from Briggs, then I even replaced the "alternator" under the fly wheel even though it wasn't dead (OEM too), the magnets weren't dirty or broken either, then when it died yet AGAIN the rectifier was dead again so another OEM was put it by me, then it died again so I used an after market this time. I didn't check if it was dead again, I might do that after I charge it. I can't do a battery load test but I'm not sure that's the problem anymore. Even when I do start it, the mower cranks weaker than a snail and then finally turns over. I'm starting to think this is a design flaw somewhere or the charging system they're using is super weak. I triple checked the connections EVERYWHERE every time it died. Idk what to do.

Could be a few things from key switch to a bad ground. What model engine and mower are we working on? How old is it?

RDA.Lawns said:

Could be a few things from key switch to a bad ground. What model engine and mower are we working on? How old is it?

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Briggs and Stratton V-Twin Cylinder 22HP OHC, with a 10 amp charging system. Mower is a riding Ariens with a hydrostatic transmission, pull button PTO blade engage, and has headlights with on/off switch however the lights are disconnected. Both mower and engine are 2012.

I've got more questions than answers for you, but cannot give help until I can see what you are doing. First, as stated, we need engine numbers. They are located on the valve cover, please give us all numbers you see. Second, how are you testing the voltage regulator? Third, have you tested stator output, if so how? Fourth, have you measured battery voltage while the engine is running? If so what were your readings? From what you have told us 2 & 2 do not add up to 4, we are not getting an accurate picture. Been solving electrical problems for years and know of no design flaws or weak charging systems on Briggs engines. Over all they are very reliable. After you reply to these questions we should be able to point you in the right direction.

Rivets said:

I've got more questions than answers for you, but cannot give help until I can see what you are doing. First, as stated, we need engine numbers. They are located on the valve cover, please give us all numbers you see. Second, how are you testing the voltage regulator? Third, have you tested stator output, if so how? Fourth, have you measured battery voltage while the engine is running? If so what were your readings? From what you have told us 2 & 2 do not add up to 4, we are not getting an accurate picture. Been solving electrical problems for years and know of no design flaws or weak charging systems on Briggs engines. Over all they are very reliable. After you reply to these questions we should be able to point you in the right direction.

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I love Briggs, I've torn em down and rebuilt em and they're great engines for sure. I was in a hurry so I gave a half-assed reply, that's my bad. Alright here we go:

Model: 407777
Type: 2217G5
Code: 120423YG

Every test I've done was to the repair manual specification and how they wanted me to test it. Have not load-tested the battery yet but I do get 12.5 volts across the terminals every time I've checked. But I don't know if it can carry a charge properly (yet).

These tests were done after each time I had a flat battery problem and with the engine running at full throttle (haven't tested everything today as I put it on a charger and had to be out the door, but tests were the same each previous (three) times this issue came up):


-Stator output was a solid 26+ volts DC. That part is fine.
-Regulator/rectifier showed no output (tested without a shunt, because I do not have one. However a new regulator/rectifier showed at least some output as opposed to getting nothing from the fried one when I tested it. Could mean nothing though?)
-Battery voltage with engine running was slowly dropping down to at least 11.24 volts. After replacing regulator/rectifier, I only got a slow climb of voltage across the terminals to 13.5 (is the slow build normal or should I see an instant 13.5 with the engine running?)
-I have continuity across the board where it needs to be. (Regulator red lead to battery, battery ground to frame etc.)
-Ground leads to the frame were checked and cleaned, everything was screwed tightly to battery etc. I'm not sure about the keyswitch/seat killswitch/PTO killswitch/Reverse killswitch/clutch killswitch because usually it's snug tight and I have no way of knowing if it wasn't connected properly or how I'd even check that.

Thank you for the replies, gentleman.

You've answered some questions well, but others poorly, so I'll back up. You say you have a 10 a Amp charging system, which to me means you have two black wires coming to a yellow connector, plugged into a yellow connector with 2 yellow wires going to the voltage regulator. If this is correct, you should be measuring AC voltage coming from the stator, not DC. The voltage regulator/rectifier converts AC electricity to DC. On a 10 Amp regulated system, you should have 20 VAC at 3600 RPM's. I don't know which repair manual you are using, so please tell me how you are doing each test. I am not there, please paint a good picture for me. Voltage should be over 12.6 as soon as you start the engine. Are you sure you have the voltage regulator attached to a good ground?

Rivets said:

You've answered some questions well, but others poorly, so I'll back up. You say you have a 10 a Amp charging system, which to me means you have two black wires coming to a yellow connector, plugged into a yellow connector with 2 yellow wires going to the voltage regulator. If this is correct, you should be measuring AC voltage coming from the stator, not DC. The voltage regulator/rectifier converts AC electricity to DC. On a 10 Amp regulated system, you should have 20 VAC at 3600 RPM's. I don't know which repair manual you are using, so please tell me how you are doing each test. I am not there, please paint a good picture for me. Voltage should be over 12.6 as soon as you start the engine. Are you sure you have the voltage regulator attached to a good ground?

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Damn, yeah you're totally right my bad. I meant AC not DC, obviously the current is alternating from the stator and the regulator charges the battery with DC. That's what I meant thank you hahah. It's been a tiresome day. I'm getting 26+ volts ac from the stator itself at WOT. I'm going by the manual and what briggs has online, and yeah they say I should get 20 vac at 3600 rpm (that's my idle speed) but I'm pretty sure last time I didn't get that because it was literally just idling. Plus I replaced the stator for the hell of it to rule it out. However I'll probably be more accurate when I test it tomorrow again. But these are straight from the repair manual that I bought to do the test under the "alternators" section https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6NaqjIxWV1ySkZjTTA5TGltZEE/view

Ok first and foremost Everstart is a Wal Mart branded battery. They are total crap batteries. My son used to make batteries and he told me they are the batteries that no other customer will buy. This is how they are tested, All batteries are tested and the ones that test the best are sold to high end battery companies. Then the ones that test at 90% then 80% and so on. When you get to the 4th level they are normally disassembled destroyed and rebuilt and sent back through the testing process. Well Wal mart buys the top of the crap batteries and sales them. They have a 78% failure rate after 90 days. Do not buy Wal Mart batteries.

Rivets said:

You've answered some questions well, but others poorly, so I'll back up. You say you have a 10 a Amp charging system, which to me means you have two black wires coming to a yellow connector, plugged into a yellow connector with 2 yellow wires going to the voltage regulator. If this is correct, you should be measuring AC voltage coming from the stator, not DC. The voltage regulator/rectifier converts AC electricity to DC. On a 10 Amp regulated system, you should have 20 VAC at 3600 RPM's. I don't know which repair manual you are using, so please tell me how you are doing each test. I am not there, please paint a good picture for me. Voltage should be over 12.6 as soon as you start the engine. Are you sure you have the voltage regulator attached to a good ground?

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BlazNT said:

Ok first and foremost Everstart is a Wal Mart branded battery. They are total crap batteries. My son used to make batteries and he told me they are the batteries that no other customer will buy. This is how they are tested, All batteries are tested and the ones that test the best are sold to high end battery companies. Then the ones that test at 90% then 80% and so on. When you get to the 4th level they are normally disassembled destroyed and rebuilt and sent back through the testing process. Well Wal mart buys the top of the crap batteries and sales them. They have a 78% failure rate after 90 days. Do not buy Wal Mart batteries.

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Well that's starting to make sense because these are my readings from today's test:


33.4 volts ac: ~3300 RPM Stator

3.6-3.8 amps dc: ~3300 RPM rectifier

Battery was freshly charged last night so that explains the lower amp charge rate I suppose. BlazNT based on your son's experience, what is the "best" or at least more durable battery brand to use in a lawn mower? Thank you for letting me know Everstart is crap, some consumers on the internet said other wise when I researched it:confused2:.

Another issue I just noticed, take a look at these pictures. At idle speed the engine surges ever so slightly and you can see the throttle linkage move with the surge. I hear the slight surge at WOT as well. I just happened to look at the intake manifold on the right bank cylinder and saw/heard a white puff of air shoot out from where the gasket should be sealing it. Could this intake leak cause all this muck coating the block and carb?:

Also this is my keyswitch. Might as well clean it too right?

Your user name pretty much tells the story for an estimated 50 percent of your problems.:laughing:

saltlife97 said:

Well that's starting to make sense because these are my readings from today's test:


33.4 volts ac: ~3300 RPM Stator

3.6-3.8 amps dc: ~3300 RPM rectifier

Battery was freshly charged last night so that explains the lower amp charge rate I suppose. BlazNT based on your son's experience, what is the "best" or at least more durable battery brand to use in a lawn mower? Thank you for letting me know Everstart is crap, some consumers on the internet said other wise when I researched it:confused2:.

Another issue I just noticed, take a look at these pictures. At idle speed the engine surges ever so slightly and you can see the throttle linkage move with the surge. I hear the slight surge at WOT as well. I just happened to look at the intake manifold on the right bank cylinder and saw/heard a white puff of air shoot out from where the gasket should be sealing it. Could this intake leak cause all this muck coating the block and carb?:
View attachment 30655

View attachment 30656

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Interstate Battery is one of the best brands. This only has to do with lead acid batteries.

SeniorCitizen said:

Your user name pretty much tells the story for an estimated 50 percent of your problems.:laughing:

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Well I DO only live 15 minutes from the sea :tongue:

BlazNT said:

Interstate Battery is one of the best brands. This only has to do with lead acid batteries.

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Alright I'll look into getting an interstate then!!

Make sure that your voltage regulator has a good ground. If need be run a separate wire from the case to a good ground on the engine.

Rivets said:

Make sure that your voltage regulator has a good ground. If need be run a separate wire from the case to a good ground on the engine.

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Even with a piss poor battery, should I see an instant 13.5 volt jump when the engine is running? Because I only see a small climb to 12.47. I'll check the regulator ground too.

BlazNT said:

Ok first and foremost Everstart is a Wal Mart branded battery. They are total crap batteries. My son used to make batteries and he told me they are the batteries that no other customer will buy. This is how they are tested, All batteries are tested and the ones that test the best are sold to high end battery companies. Then the ones that test at 90% then 80% and so on. When you get to the 4th level they are normally disassembled destroyed and rebuilt and sent back through the testing process. Well Wal mart buys the top of the crap batteries and sales them. They have a 78% failure rate after 90 days. Do not buy Wal Mart batteries.

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WOW !!! Somebody screwed up at the testing facility .....I've had an "EVERSTART" battery in my mower for the past 3years, AND it still shows 12.3 volts at pre-start and 12.8 running @ W.O.T. ... I really don't think Walmart enjoys returns on anything !
I do clean my terminals AND other connections each spring being sure there are no frays or cuts, loose connections etc.
Vibrations on these riding mowers are hell on EVERYTHING ! Maintenance ... periodic maintenance !! ..:thumbsup:

Mower batteries are different to car batteries,
The plates are thicker to make them mechanically stronger.
The best ones by far are the Optima spiral cell batteries but I doubt any one will want to pay for the best.
After that comes motorcycle batteries,
AGM = adsorbent glass matt which goes in between at the plates to stop them shaking around
PVR=Pressure Valve Regulated as with the cap on you beer bottle, gas under pressure in the battery stops the cells gassing.
These are the most important thing to look for on a mower battery.

As for your mower, in the dark, pull off a battery lead.
If you get a good spark as you make & break then there is something drawing current while the mower is turned off.

bertsmobile1 said:

Mower batteries are different to car batteries,
The plates are thicker to make them mechanically stronger.
The best ones by far are the Optima spiral cell batteries but I doubt any one will want to pay for the best.
After that comes motorcycle batteries,
AGM = adsorbent glass matt which goes in between at the plates to stop them shaking around
PVR=Pressure Valve Regulated as with the cap on you beer bottle, gas under pressure in the battery stops the cells gassing.
These are the most important thing to look for on a mower battery.

As for your mower, in the dark, pull off a battery lead.
If you get a good spark as you make & break then there is something drawing current while the mower is turned off.

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I'll check out those batteries for the hell of it anyway thank you! I'll go do the make and break and see where I stand with that. Anyone have any idea though where that oily crap can be coming from in my previously mentioned images by the way?

Boobala said:

WOW !!! Somebody screwed up at the testing facility .....I've had an "EVERSTART" battery in my mower for the past 3years, AND it still shows 12.3 volts at pre-start and 12.8 running @ W.O.T. ... I really don't think Walmart enjoys returns on anything !
I do clean my terminals AND other connections each spring being sure there are no frays or cuts, loose connections etc.
Vibrations on these riding mowers are hell on EVERYTHING ! Maintenance ... periodic maintenance !! ..:thumbsup:

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You beat the odds. Remember 22% don't fail. 78% failure rate is after the 90 day warranty. No returns just new battery.

Is the Duracell battery good in lawn tractors? I checked Home Depot's page and I'm seeing some pretty bum reviews on the Interstate batteries. Some even say they give the 6 month warranty because it only lasts that long for them. This is very hard lol

Duracell is the battery that is in the second line of battery choices. I personally go to my auto parts store and buy the batteries that they have.

BlazNT said:

Duracell is the battery that is in the second line of battery choices. I personally go to my auto parts store and buy the batteries that they have.

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While we're on the topic of batteries, do you recommend any specific battery chargers/engine starters? I don't have a use for the roll around ones but I've been reading on a few portable chargers. Wondering if you or anyone has something good.