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What kind of oil ?

#1

jmurray01

jmurray01

I've just sold something and came into a bit of money, so decided to buy the proper 10W30 oil my mower asks for, as I'm currently using 10W40.

Anyway, does it have to be lawn mower oil, or will regular 10W30 car oil work fine ?


#2

JDgreen

JDgreen

jmurray01 said:
I've just sold something and came into a bit of money, so decided to buy the proper 10W30 oil my mower asks for, as I'm currently using 10W40.

Anyway, does it have to be lawn mower oil, or will regular 10W30 car oil work fine ?
Click to expand...

The stores who sell the "mower oil" would have you think the stuff is special. Any good quality car oil is fine for mower engines.


#3

jmurray01

jmurray01

Thanks, I didn't think there could be much difference.


#4

Grass ala Mowed

Grass ala Mowed

Since I spent a fair amount on my new mower, I've started using Pennzoil lawn mower oil. It's about the same price as car oil, but it is allegedly formulated for small air cooled motors with no oil filter.

I get at at the auto parts store; they're a little more competitive on price than the mower store.


#5

reynoldston

reynoldston

If you are going to use this mower commercially running it every day, use the best oil you can buy and change it on a schedule. If you are just a average home owner with maybe less the one hour mowing a week just use any good quality motor oil and change it once a year. Not going to matter if it is 10W30 or 10W40, mower engine oil or car engine oil. Myself I use SAE 30 in all my push mower and it is over 30 years old and it is just getting to the point I could use a new set of wheels and the engine is still going strong. Just make sure you check the oil level before every time you use the mower.


#6

BKBrown

BKBrown

Don't know what is available in Scotland, but I would suggest any good quality full synthetic in the recommended viscosity for the temperature. :thumbsup:


#7

K

KennyV

I was just wondering the same thing... if it is common there, to run synthetic engine oils in small air cooled engines?? :smile:KennyV


#8

jmurray01

jmurray01

Well, I went into two stores that supply a wide range of oil, and neither sold 10W30!

I'll just have to buy it from eBay.


#9

BKBrown

BKBrown

Still curious..... are there synthetic oils available where you live ??

Seems strange to me that there would not be 10W30 available and there would be only 10W40 ???? :confused2:



#10

reynoldston

reynoldston

The part I don't understand is why would you want 10W30 over 10W40. Do you mow grass in Scotland when it is real cold and need the lighter oil? The 10 is when the mower is first started and the oil is cold and the high number 30 and 40 after everything is up to operating temperature.


#11

JDgreen

JDgreen

reynoldston said:
The part I don't understand is why would you want 10W30 over 10W40. Do you mow grass in Scotland when it is real cold and need the lighter oil? The 10 is when the mower is first started and the oil is cold and the high number 30 and 40 after everything is up to operating temperature.
Click to expand...

Practically every walk behind push mower I have owned says "do not use 10W40 oil" in their manuals.


#12

reynoldston

reynoldston

My push mowers are over 30 years old and never had a owners manual because I bought them used and I never read a owner manual for a walk behind mower. I have always used SAE30 in them. They also get very few hours of running seeing I just use them for trim mowing. I still wonder why not the 10W40, is that too heavy of a oil and what is it going to harm? Bearings, cylinder walls, crankshaft bearings? The only time I have ever seen a problem with oil in any small engine repair job I have worked on was they ran it out of oil. Also if I bought a new push mower and the owner manual said not to use 10W40 I would NOT because they built it and know more then I do about that mower. What are we talking about less then one quart of oil for a years running so why not use the best and proper oil. I know that the newer transmissions use a lot lighter oils because they use a lot of needle bearings and the lighter oil lubes the needle bearings better and also for better gas mileage. Back in the early 30's they used a 140 weight in gear cases and I think they did that because of poor design seals and they didn't leak as bad. Times and lubrications is changing for the better.


#13

F

fastback

I would guess that the reason for not wanting 10w40 is because the small engines are not pressure lubricated. The viscosity may be a bit heavy, I believe they rely on gravity etc.


#14

W

Woody71

My mower's manual calls for SAE 30W. I used to buy the 48 oz. jug of B&S mower oil. Then I figured, wait, other manufactures must make SAE 30 detergent based oil. Last month, I got 5 quarts of Peak SAE 30 detergent oil and an auto oil filter for $10, so that should last me a while.


#15

Grass ala Mowed

Grass ala Mowed

A multi-viscosity oil has additives (amazingly called viscosity index improvers) to make it multi-viscosity. Obviously these additives are not oil, so they displace actual oil. Back in the middle 80's GM has a rash of camshaft failures and they blamed it on oil with too much additive and not enough oil, to the point of denying warranty if 10W-40 oil was used. Also, I work with diesel engines where multi-viscosity oil is not allowed, one reason being that when the additives break down, the oil acts like the thinner base stock, even at temperature. Being as how out little air cooled motors probably run pretty hot, this could be a reason for the no 10W-40. I have an older B&S that wants single weight; 30 if its above 40 degrees and 10 if it's below.


#16

F

fastback

Thank's for the history lesson. That's what I like about this site we are always learning.


#17

B

Black Bart

Grass ala Mowed said:
A multi-viscosity oil has additives (amazingly called viscosity index improvers) to make it multi-viscosity. Obviously these additives are not oil, so they displace actual oil. Back in the middle 80's GM has a rash of camshaft failures and they blamed it on oil with too much additive and not enough oil, to the point of denying warranty if 10W-40 oil was used. Also, I work with diesel engines where multi-viscosity oil is not allowed, one reason being that when the additives break down, the oil acts like the thinner base stock, even at temperature. Being as how out little air cooled motors probably run pretty hot, this could be a reason for the no 10W-40. I have an older B&S that wants single weight; 30 if its above 40 degrees and 10 if it's below.
Click to expand...
You have it backasswards
conventional oil in 10w-40 is a 40 weight and the additives make it like a 10 when cold that is why as it gets mileage on it and the add-pack is depleted it get thicker.

Now with a synthetic it is the other way around it is made from 10w and the additives make it a 40 when hot.


#18

Grass ala Mowed

Grass ala Mowed

Whatever. Copied right from the Castrol Oil website:

"A monograde is an oil whose viscosity is defined at only one temperature, either high or low. A multigrade must meet both high and low temperature viscosity requirements simultaneously. This makes multigrades an easy and popular year-round choice for drivers who experience hot summers and harsh winters. They are easily recognized by the dual viscosity designation (i.e. 10W-30 where the 10W is the low temperature, or winter designation and the 30 is the high temperature designation). It is the viscosity modifier additive that produces a thickening effect at high temperatures but is dormant at low temperatures. "

You're thinking of a "pour point depressant."


#19

K

KennyV

There was a problem with early multivis oils , when too large a gap was bridged, 10 to 40.... Using mineral oils... There never was a problem doing that with synthetics ....
the chemistry has been worked out now for more than 20 years, you will not have a problem with large range viscosity oils... . But like anything it will likely remain as folk lore for 50 years, or until most of those that have heard the problems from 70's & 80's are no longer around, or when enough people look into the chemistry side of lubes...
Detergent oils came about in the 30's and 40's... I still hear the most remarkable things that people repeat about using non detergent oil in an engine... it is amazing how bad information continues even after more than 70 years...
Multi vis is not just a good idea ... synthetic is not just a great idea... but it will take time for some to figure out why... :smile:KennyV


#20

B

Black Bart

KennyV said:
There was a problem with early multivis oils , when too large a gap was bridged, 10 to 40.... Using mineral oils... There never was a problem doing that with synthetics ....
the chemistry has been worked out now for more than 20 years, you will not have a problem with large range viscosity oils... . But like anything it will likely remain as folk lore for 50 years, or until most of those that have heard the problems from 70's & 80's are no longer around, or when enough people look into the chemistry side of lubes...
Detergent oils came about in the 30's and 40's... I still hear the most remarkable things that people repeat about using non detergent oil in an engine... it is amazing how bad information continues even after more than 70 years...
Multi vis is not just a good idea ... synthetic is not just a great idea... but it will take time for some to figure out why... :smile:KennyV
Click to expand...
Kenny you are so right on this their is nothing so misunderstood as motor oil.

I have used multi-grade in all my mowers since it first came out about 60 years ago, I'm still waiting for them to blow up.:biggrin:

Grass ala Mowed You should spend a few months reading UOA on Bobs the Oil Guy Forum you will find it time well spent if you want to learn more about oil.

Also for all those who don't understand multi-grade oil or if you think it is not better for your engine I recommend you read this link.







Motor Oil Viscosity Grades Explained in Layman's Terms


#21

Grass ala Mowed

Grass ala Mowed

I've read Bob is the oil guy and stand by my statement. Viscosity index improvers thicken with heat. Bob states the importance of low temperature pumpability to prevent start up wear and for that reason I run Mobil 1 0W-20 in my car. I'll concede that even today's cheapest oil is probably better than the finest oils in the 80's when GM issued the prohibition on 10W-40. However, while I am running the 0W-20 in place of the factory recommended 5W-20 in my car, I am not in favor of running thicker oils than recommended because of the aforementioned pumpability. I think we can all agree that oil, in any engine, oil lubricates, clean and cools the engine parts; the last two by flowing through the engine and carrying dirt and heat away from the parts and into the oil sump. A thicker oil moves slower and decreases efficiency of the last two functions.


#22

B

Black Bart

Grass ala Mowed said:
I've read Bob is the oil guy and stand by my statement. Viscosity index improvers thicken with heat. Bob states the importance of low temperature pumpability to prevent start up wear and for that reason I run Mobil 1 0W-20 in my car. I'll concede that even today's cheapest oil is probably better than the finest oils in the 80's when GM issued the prohibition on 10W-40. However, while I am running the 0W-20 in place of the factory recommended 5W-20 in my car, I am not in favor of running thicker oils than recommended because of the aforementioned pumpability. I think we can all agree that oil, in any engine, oil lubricates, clean and cools the engine parts; the last two by flowing through the engine and carrying dirt and heat away from the parts and into the oil sump. A thicker oil moves slower and decreases efficiency of the last two functions.
Click to expand...
Thiner is better until you reach the point where is fails to provide adequate protection.


#23

Y

yoyoboy96

10w30 oil is oil, whether used for cars, mowers, boats, it's all the same. Stores selling oil titled "mower oil" are just trying to make you think thats what you need, so you pay more.


#24

B

Black Bart

Grass ala Mowed
After rereading your post we are talking about 2 different things.
This statement refers to how the modifiers work


I've read Bob is the oil guy and stand by my statement. Viscosity index improvers thicken with heat

I stated conventional oil will thicken as it ages.
Here is what AMSOIL has to say about that.



Today's engines are running hotter than ever. More horsepower, turbo chargers and aerodynamic styling have created extremely hot environments that receive less cooling from outside air. High heat leads to oil oxidation, deposits and thickening in conventional oils. Because they are made from impure, irregular molecules, conventional motor oils are more susceptible to the effects of heat. The small, light molecules in conventional oil tend to evaporate as the oil is heated, leaving large, heavy molecules behind and leading to oil consumption and an increase in the oil's viscosity. If those large, heavy molecules are chemically unstable, they may also break-down and form deposits on component surfaces, further inhibiting the release of heat into the oil stream.

Even in relatively mild temperatures, oxygen works to break down some of the chemicals in conventional lubricants. The extreme heat in engines actually promotes oxidation. When conventional oil contaminants break down, they coat components with varnish, deposits and sludge and leave the lubricant thick, hard to pump and with very poor heat transfer ability


#25

Grass ala Mowed

Grass ala Mowed

Black Bart - come over here on this side and stand next to me or I've come over there; I think we are looking at the same thing from opposite sides. I 110% agree that conventional oil, full of incomplete polymer chains and other crap that's too expensive to refine out, thickens with age as the chains polymerize under heat and pressure. Synthetic oil essentially does not contain these chains and stays truer to vicosity with age. Also, I would never go lower on the "hot" viscosity number. My car said 5W-20 and I'm running 0W-20; my F-150 wants 5W-30 and I will not put the 0W-20 in it, It's 184,000 miles old and running great on Mobil 1 5W-30. I'm not sure I see the value of synthetic in my mower when I have to change it every 25 hours to maintain my Toro 5 year no questions asked, even if it doesn't start in 2 pulls it's our problem warranty.


#26

B

Bam

An air cooled mower is going to run hotter than a car so the oil is quite important. A motorcycle shop will sell you a basic oil for air cooled engines and that would be ideal.

Having said that, I use automotive multi-grade oil in mine as I always have some to hand, so it is convenient and economic but then I only have a cheap mower and the chassis or wheels will probably pack up before the engine.

For a 4 stroke engine, I would advise against the practice of adding upper cylinder lubricant or any other oil to the petrol. I used to do this on the last mow before laying up for the winter and suspect it may have caused premature failure of the membrane in my carburettor. Better to remove the plug and squirt a drop of oil in the cylinder with a syringe, turn the engine over once or twice and replace the plug ( I use 2 stroke oil for this as I always have a can of that for another purpose).


#27

B

benski

Ah hah!:wink: Another oil thread. I'll just keep putting in my 10-30 Amsoil and relax.:biggrin:


#28

G

Giles

Some have talked about problems GM was having with camshafts "caused" by using 10w40 oils.
Strange that, to my knowledge, no other manufacturer was having problems.
It might be noted that GM has been having problems with worn camshafts since the 50s.
I have replaced MANY camshafts in Chevy engines, latest being 1996:thumbdown:
The only other camshaft I have had to replace is Toyota 20R 4 cylinder. Probably about five, and the replacements never gave a problem.
Now for the OP---A person should use what the manufacturer recommends. I have been using Chevron Dello 400 30W in my 31 year old WH since new. No problems.
Some time back, I posted that I purchased a Gravely G16 with 234 hours run time. The owner stated that he used 30W Mobil 1 full synthetic. I searched everywhere and could not find this oil. Contrary to the owners manual, I decided to use 5W30 Mobil 1 full synthetic oil. After app. 8 hours of operation, I noticed that there was a small amount of oil going into the air cleaner housing, from the crankcase breather tube. I cleaned this oil up and after my next mowing it had returned.
I drained the oil and replaced it with Chevron 30W and after two mowings there is no oil escaping from the breather tube.


#29

O

Oddball

JMurray, its funny that you can't find 10W-30. Over here I have the opposite trouble. I have a hard time finding straight 30 weight, but 10W-30 is everywhere.


#30

G

goodolboydws

Here's my $.02. worth.

All our mower and air cooled engines here are at least 10 years old, (some are over 20) and I wasn't aware that apparently the newer ones manuals are now recommending using a multigrade oil, which is interesting, because that's all I've ever used-once a machine was past warranty (or after the first oil drain). Everything (4-stroke/4-cycle) that we have manuals on hand for reccomends using SAE 30, although some said 10W30 or 40 use was permissable, but to check the oil level more often for increased oil consumption if using those oils. In high hour usage, this seems to bear out as true-which I attribute to the increased volitization of the lighter weight oil from an air-cooled engine's high heat levels in normal operration over that of a typical water cooled-engine (for which multigrade oils were originally designed). In fact, I've even taken to using oil up to 20W50 synthetic in the garden tillers as they get such heavy load usage here in our mostly clay and rock soil that they tend to run on the hot side.

I previously used 10W40 "semi synthetic" by Castrol, but switched to their same designation version of 15W40 "truck" and then to their as-labeled "diesel" oil a few years ago for most things with no oil filter and especially for those that I operate only in the warmer months. I figure that all other things being equal (meaning similar additive packages), that since a diesel engine typically puts a much higher pressure load on it's rod and crank bearings, an oil designed for use in one should hold up longer/better to pressure breakdown in a non-diesel engine too, and that it might actually resist temperature degradation better as well. Another side benefit of a diesel engine oil is that most good ones are designed to carry and still function well while carrying higher soot (think of dirt) loads than a typical "car" engine is designed to carry-which ANY engine that has no oil filter on-board should theoretically also benefit from. (If someone has better information or info to the contrary, I'd be happy to be better-educated on this aspect.)

BEFORE the warranty period expired I'd already started using 10W40 semi synthetic Castrol for the gas powered 4 cycle 1997 garden tractor's engine, and when it became more available in our area (east Tennessee) I switched to their slightly heavier above-mentioned 15W40 version synthetic (or semi synthetic) or a mix of weights of semi sythetic and full synthetic "truck" or diesel oil. That machine I use year-round, (mostly for pulling a cart in colder weather) and aside from the reduced available battery amperage in Winter making for a slower cranking speed it has no trouble starting in colder weather with this oil, which is actually theoretically a "lower" viscosity under cold conditions than a straight 30W would be.
The tractor's engine has well over 2000 hours on it by now. I pull the plugs to check them from time to time and regap them as necessary, but they tend to stay very clean. I think that I'm on the 2nd set of plugs now-but then I ONLY change spark plugs when their electrodes actually get too thin for my taste if they're working properly and are in good shape physically otherwise. I've changed the head gaskets once so far (which was shortly after the warranty period expired, to de-carbon the heads. As it turned out there was minimal build up then. Synthetic oil typically does form carbon deposits much more slowly than a conventional motor oil will in a properly operating engine, but it's probably time to check the heads again. This engine has had a long-term slow oil leak, so I can't say how much oil it's actually losing from internal consumption vs leakage.

----------------------------------------------------
P.S. IF I recall correctly, I believe that the camshaft problems GM was having years back that has been referenced in this thread was actually later proven to be from improperly hardened camshaft lobes and that it was brought out in court that the "wrong oil" excuse was a calculated corporate cost/benefit analysis attempt to escape eating millions of dollars of legitimate warranty coverage-one that was fought by a class action suit after too many customers got screwed and one of those with good records got very mad and started to raise a stink. This would be only one in a long string of times that an auto company has done this cost/benefit of warranty vs litigation calculation sort of thing. But I could be wrong about this particular one.


#31

A

amsoilman

jmurray01 said:
Well, I went into two stores that supply a wide range of oil, and neither sold 10W30!

I'll just have to buy it from eBay.
Click to expand...
Jmurry: If I can show you how to purchase AMSOIL products there and get them at COST would you be interested?You can order direct from Amsoil and have delivered to your door step. Thanks for your question.
Amsoilman :thumbsup:


#32

K

KennyV

amsoilman said:
Jmurry: If I can show you how to purchase AMSOIL products there and get them at COST would you be interested?You can order direct from Amsoil and have delivered to your door step. Thanks for your question.
Amsoilman :thumbsup:
Click to expand...

WHAT question did he ask???

You are aware of advertising & selling products on these forums, is something you agreed NOT to do when you joined... Right.
There are several members here that use & sell Amsoil... They have not violated the advertising/marketing polices here... As Parkmower mentioned in another thread... this looks like it is crossing the line.. You need to re read the "Forum Rules & Terms of Use" (at the bottom of these pages) and use the "Contact Us" link if you still have questions... :smile:KennyV


#33

jmurray01

jmurray01

KennyV said:
WHAT question did he ask???

You are aware of advertising & selling products on these forums, is something you agreed NOT to do when you joined... Right.
There are several members here that use & sell Amsoil... They have not violated the advertising/marketing polices here... As Parkmower mentioned in another thread... this looks like it is crossing the line.. You need to re read the "Forum Rules & Terms of Use" (at the bottom of these pages) and use the "Contact Us" link if you still have questions... :smile:KennyV
Click to expand...
You beat me to it Kenny!

Read the rules and if you agree, post away, if you don't, go away :thumbsup:


#34

Sammy the Red

Sammy the Red

jmurray01 said:
Anyway, does it have to be lawn mower oil, or will regular 10W30 car oil work fine ?
Click to expand...

Regular 10w30 should be just fine.


And after, enjoy some 10w30 for yourself !

neustadt-10w30.jpg


#35

Ric

Ric

Sammy the Red said:
Regular 10w30 should be just fine.


And after, enjoy some 10w30 for yourself !

neustadt-10w30.jpg
Click to expand...

Now that kind of 10w30 I can handle :thumbsup:


#36

jmurray01

jmurray01

Ric said:
Now that kind of 10w30 I can handle :thumbsup:
Click to expand...
Oh yes! :thumbsup:


#37

BKBrown

BKBrown

Recommend it --YES :thumbsup:

Advertise it and your referral to become preferred customers - NO :thumbdown:

I buy direct and anyone can do it by going directly to Amsoil web site .

STOP the advertising ! :thumbdown:


#38

B

benski

BKBrown said:
Recommend it --YES :thumbsup:

Advertise it and your referral to become preferred customers - NO :thumbdown:

I buy direct and anyone can do it by going directly to Amsoil web site .

STOP the advertising ! :thumbdown:
Click to expand...
Too true! Plenty of other avenues exist for stirring up business. If he'd like to join in the discussions and ideas presented, I'm all in, so to speak.


#39

W

wcpost

For these of you who still run automotive oils in your air cooled motors. I would advise you to check the lower seal. I have replaced many belts due to oil leaks from the lower seal on new motors using automotive grade oils. Air cooled motors do run hotter and will cause leaks past the seal. I have run all brands, but I will always make sure I use oils designed for Air Cooled engines.


#40

Sammy the Red

Sammy the Red

Some good reading about oil.

Oils: What motor oil should I use? Which oil is best for my Porsche or aircooled engine?

Motor Oils - Fuel Economy vs. Wear


#41

reynoldston

reynoldston

I am not for advertising on this forum, and really could care less what you use for oil. I have always said use a good quality oil any brand and keep it changed. What you do is your business. As I read it Amsoilman is just trying to tell how good he thinks his oil is and that you can buy direct from the Amsoil company.


#42

J

jamesslcx

I agree with reynoldston, I'm leaning towards just change it regularly and it will be o.k. Use your favorite oil and be happy, and a add every now and then doesn't offend me at all.


#43

Carscw

Carscw

I just use 10w30 and a napa gold filter

Sent from my iPhone using LMF


#44

J

jamesslcx

I'm starting to believe there are three topics that should never be discussed in polite company religion, politics and motor oil!:laughing:


#45

K

KennyV

jamesslcx said:
I'm starting to believe there are three topics that should never be discussed in polite company religion, politics and motor oil!:laughing:
Click to expand...

That's likely true & for the same reasons... The true " believer" Usually feels an obligation to defend a wrong notion... just because they have held that 'wrong notion' for a long period of time...:biggrin: most will not question those "facts" that they hold as true... despite all actual experience showing something different...
Everyone creates their own comfort zone that they like to leave their mind living in... :laughing:

... But so far... there have not been centuries of wars fought based on Oil BRANDS & TYPES ... Yet... :smile:KennyV


#46

jmurray01

jmurray01

jamesslcx said:
I'm starting to believe there are three topics that should never be discussed in polite company religion, politics and motor oil!:laughing:
Click to expand...
I think you may be right! :rolleyes:


#47

B

benski

KennyV said:
That's likely true & for the same reasons... The true " believer" Usually feels an obligation to defend a wrong notion... just because they have held that 'wrong notion' for a long period of time...:biggrin: most will not question those "facts" that they hold as true... despite all actual experience showing something different...
Everyone creates their own comfort zone that they like to leave their mind living in... :laughing:

... But so far... there have not been centuries of wars fought based on Oil BRANDS & TYPES ... Yet... :smile:KennyV
Click to expand...

Hang in there, Kenny! The century is still young. We do, after all have wars fought over oil, so it shouldn't be too much of a stretch to see the "Conventional vs. Synthetic War of 2042" coming to an arena near us.:frown::eek: Fortunately, I'll be dead, so it won't personally matter much.:wink:


#48

jmurray01

jmurray01

benski said:
Hang in there, Kenny! The century is still young. We do, after all have wars fought over oil, so it shouldn't be too much of a stretch to see the "Conventional vs. Synthetic War of 2042" coming to an arena near us.:frown::eek: Fortunately, I'll be dead, so it won't personally matter much.:wink:
Click to expand...
Sure of that, are you ? :laughing:

Well actually, if this thread doesn't stop now, you will be dead, because somebody from here will kill you :laughing:


#49

B

benski

jmurray01 said:
Sure of that, are you ? :laughing:

Well actually, if this thread doesn't stop now, you will be dead, because somebody from here will kill you :laughing:
Click to expand...

Yes, if the war actually occurs in 2042, I'll almost certainly be dead. If some conventional oil assassin decides to take me out sooner than that, I hope they hurry and are quick about it..:eek: Just kidding, of course. Certainly not worth dying over, as far as I'm concerned.:wink:


#50

jmurray01

jmurray01

benski said:
Yes, if the war actually occurs in 2042, I'll almost certainly be dead. If some conventional oil assassin decides to take me out sooner than that, I hope they hurry and are quick about it..:eek: Just kidding, of course. Certainly not worth dying over, as far as I'm concerned.:wink:
Click to expand...
Some say they smear old oil on their faces instead of mud while working in the jungle :laughing:


#51

C

crazyoldtractor

Don't bother with "Lawn mower oil." Regular 10w-30 will work fine.


#52

davbell22602

davbell22602

crazyoldtractor said:
Don't bother with "Lawn mower oil." Regular 10w-30 will work fine.
Click to expand...

I disagree, 10w-30 isnt recommended for lawnmower engines per Briggs, Tecumseh manual. Might work on snowblower but not a lawnmower. I say 30w for a Lawnmower


#53

jmurray01

jmurray01

davbell22602 said:
I disagree, 10w-30 isnt recommended for lawnmower engines per Briggs, Tecumseh manual. Might work on snowblower but not a lawnmower. I say 30w for a Lawnmower
Click to expand...
In my mowers manual (2011 Mountfield 2.6HP Walk Behind) it calls for either 10W30, or Straight-30.

So you could use either.

I am currently using Mountfield MX855 Straight-30 Synthetic oil, and will continue to do so as the mower runs very smooth with it.


#54

davbell22602

davbell22602

jmurray01 said:
In my mowers manual (2011 Mountfield 2.6HP Walk Behind) it calls for either 10W30, or Straight-30.

So you could use either.

I am currently using Mountfield MX855 Straight-30 Synthetic oil, and will continue to do so as the mower runs very smooth with it.
Click to expand...

A briggs with use 10w-30 oil. Just have to keep checking the oil before each use on the mower.


#55

K

KennyV

I do annual oil changes on all my engines... gasoline and diesel... have always ran 5w-40 or something very close to that... But always synthetic... either Mobil1, Delvac1, or Shell Rotella T6...
I have NEVER added even one ounce of additional oil, between the regular oil changes...
An engine that is worn out will use, (burn) oil & an engine with leaking seals will loose (leak) oil... but other than that, a proper set up engine will not have any problem with oil... :smile:KennyV


#56

M

mowitall.cl

Did i just read a bunch of gear heads saying oil don't matter thats makes as much sense as saying and we have all heard it "their all the same" (yes roll of eyes) come on


#57

J

jamesslcx

Yes Mowitall.cl, I won't get into which oil is better, but just doing the service it requires with any good oil is better than neglecting your mower, car etc.


#58

M

mowitall.cl

Well sir i am a firm believer in picking up the phone and calling a local shop and asking what type would your engine,hydro,gearbox,etc take and then continue how hard is that n if to lazy to do so you deserve all u will get


#59

B

benski

Ah yes, we've arrived at another "what kind of oil" thread. :eek::biggrin: I think having good clean oil is as or more important than having a multi or single weight, but that's just my opinion, of course. I'm a multi-wt. synthetic oil kind of guy for all of my small 4 cycle stuff. It keeps my inventory down, and makes things simple for me.:smile:


#60

J

jamesslcx

Nothing wrong with that Benski.


#61

P

pshome

jmurray01 said:
I've just sold something and came into a bit of money, so decided to buy the proper 10W30 oil my mower asks for, as I'm currently using 10W40.

Anyway, does it have to be lawn mower oil, or will regular 10W30 car oil work fine ?
Click to expand...

Lawn mowers have air cooled engines and as such they operate at higher temperatures than car engines, which are generally liquid cooled. Therefore, the oil requirement is also different and calls for single weight oil such as 30W. The car engines specify multi weight and viscosity oil, such as 10W40, which have many additives and viscosity enhancers, which tend to deteriorate at higher temperatures as in a air cooled engine, degrading the oil for high temperature application.


#62

S

sallymander

10w30 is the lighter oil and would be better for colder climates.
Big problem you can run into with 10w40 oil is most of it is made for diesel engines and has different properties than gasser engine oil.
You would have to look at the label well before buying to make sure it's for a gass engine.


#63

A

Amsoilman1

Hey all Amsoilman here. I have weighed in on many of WHAT OIL questions. Please Take whatever lubrication you use and get their comparisons to Amsoil Products. In most cases the company you use WILL NOT have anything. We at Amsoil test against any and all lubricants that is worth while testing with. Please do so. If you want you can check yourself with "Amsoil" at AMSOIL - Synthetic Oil, Motor and Engine Oil, Lubricants, Air Filters, Oil Filters and Greases ... If you have any more questions I can help answer pertaining to lubrication please donot hesitate to ask. Thank you for reading my response.
Oh yes MOST air cooled engines can use Amsoil ASE small engine oil. The member stated that their isnt any difference in auto and small air cooled engines is sadly mistaken. Please read and better informed. Thanks again.: Amsoilman


#64

jmurray01

jmurray01

Just to put an end to this thread - I ended up buying some SAE-30 (Straight-30) oil specifically for my type of engine.


#65

Carscw

Carscw

If you sit 10 guys at a table and ask about what oil to use your going to get 20 opinions Then ask them a week later and you will get 20 more

Sent from my iPhone using LMF


#66

J

jamesslcx

jmurray01, this is now an eternal thread, we will never know the true answer until we make a virgin sacrifice to the oil gods, virgin oil that is!:confused2::laughing:


#67

A

Amsoilman1

Another misinformed individual . Please read annd donot put any processed dirt in your valuable ehgines.
Thanks again: Amsoilman


#68

F

fenderbender

reynoldston said:
The part I don't understand is why would you want 10W30 over 10W40. Do you mow grass in Scotland when it is real cold and need the lighter oil? The 10 is when the mower is first started and the oil is cold and the high number 30 and 40 after everything is up to operating temperature.
Click to expand...

Oil does not get thin when it is cold and thicker when it is hot!! It just doesn't get thinner than standard 10 weight when it's hot, nor thicker than standard 30 weight when cold. Pour a bottle of 30 weight and a bottle of 10-30 when they are cold and you will see what I mean.


#69

B

Black Bart

fenderbender said:
Oil does not get thin when it is cold and thicker when it is hot!! It just doesn't get thinner than standard 10 weight when it's hot, nor thicker than standard 30 weight when cold. Pour a bottle of 30 weight and a bottle of 10-30 when they are cold and you will see what I mean.
Click to expand...

fenderbender; You have it Backasswards,


#70

K

KennyV

Multi viscosity oil has been around for Many decades, for longer than some here have been alive ... and still there are those that do not know what it is or how it works.

Same for synthetics and additives why they are there and what they do... and now added to the misinformation regarding those add that there is someone now implying that diesel rated oil is somehow inferior to gasoline oil...?
I don't know if some just don't care enough to find out facts about better oils or if it is they have some partial remembered misinformation ... but it is amazing how much opposite information gets posted everywhere... I sure hope that those, that are unsure do a bit more reading than just skimming the nonsense that gets perpetuated... Use the resources that are available, this information is available World Wide... There are no lubrication 'secrets' anymore... it's 2012 not 1952... but still there is too many completely wrong statements made about oils..

You will never find a better oil for an air cooled engine than a Diesel rated, multi-viscosity synthetic... You can subtract any of those 3 things... each time you do you will have a Lesser lubricant...
:smile:KennyV


#71

B

Black Bart

KennyV said:
Multi viscosity oil has been around for Many decades, for longer than some here have been alive ... and still there are those that do not know what it is or how it works.

Same for synthetics and additives why they are there and what they do... and now added to the misinformation regarding those add that there is someone now implying that diesel rated oil is somehow inferior to gasoline oil...?
I don't know if some just don't care enough to find out facts about better oils or if it is they have some partial remembered misinformation ... but it is amazing how much opposite information gets posted everywhere... I sure hope that those, that are unsure do a bit more reading than just skimming the nonsense that gets perpetuated... Use the resources that are available, this information is available World Wide... There are no lubrication 'secrets' anymore... it's 2012 not 1952... but still there is too many completely wrong statements made about oils..

You will never find a better oil for an air cooled engine than a Diesel rated, multi-viscosity synthetic... You can subtract any of those 3 things... each time you do you will have a Lesser lubricant...
:smile:KennyV
Click to expand...

Kenny you are correct every time the subject of oil comes up on this forum the misinformation start flying.
More people are misinformed about oil than anything else.

Want to see what I'm talking about look up the post where JD was auguring with me that conventional oil was better than synthetic then it was revealed that he did not even know what the base stock was made of.
How can someone argue about something they know absolutely nothing about. :confused2:

As to using diesel in a gas engine nearly all have a SL/SN/SM rating I use Shell T-6 in all 3 of my
John Deere's and also in my 1178HP Corvette.


#72

jmurray01

jmurray01

jamesslcx said:
jmurray01, this is now an eternal thread, we will never know the true answer until we make a virgin sacrifice to the oil gods, virgin oil that is!:confused2::laughing:
Click to expand...
I fear you may be correct...

The bottom line is - Use the type of oil your manual tells you to use!

Be that 10W30, 10W40, 15W40, SAE30, or whatever.


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