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Well - I'm Back!!
#1
brchad
brchad
#2
Boudreaux In Eunice La.
Boudreaux In Eunice La.
#4
Boobala
Boobala
Hey there Bill,
Good to hear from ya,... ya scoundrel, SOooooooo got your boobie caught in the wringer AGAIN EHhhh ?? well we're here to help ya get it runnin right, as Bo ( not to be confused with Boo (ME) ) mentioned, remove the engine shroud, and clean those cooling fins till ya can eat off em ( LOL ) I use a product called "Purple-Power" bought at Walmart & auto parts stores I put it in a spray bottle and use it full strength on REALLY heavy dirt BUT you have to do sections at a time and rinse right away, this stuff is strong, and if left on for awhile, WILL eat off paint !! a good STIFF auto parts cleaning brush and some small screwdrivers and whatever you want to get between the fins and everything else, small paint brushes are good on other area's. BE sure you cover the ENTIRE carburetor and intake manifold, with something like Saran wrap or water-proof whatever !! when rinsing off, I used a small pitcher of water rinse & repeat RINSE THOROUGHLY ... RINSE THROUGHLY !!!! now use a blower, to blow all the water off ( I used my Compressor with an air nozzle ) but a leaf-blower will also work, I then used spray type carb cleaner to do the OUTSIDE of the carb, ( which was in good running order ) you can do this first then do the engine, whichever you prefer, DOUBLE check or even change the engine oil ( for water ) remember to clean inside the shroud ! as far as the muffler, I never had one THAT hot, so maybe the internal baffle(s) got fried ?? that's your call to hear it after it's running ???? I THINK I covered this in enuff detail ( LOL ) here'a few pics of what I had on my 17.5 HP, when I first bought it ! hope this is helpful Bill, keep us up-dated, ..... Boo
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https://www.walmart.com/ip/Purple-P...75035&wl11=online&wl12=16778256&wl13=&veh=sem
Good to hear from ya,... ya scoundrel, SOooooooo got your boobie caught in the wringer AGAIN EHhhh ?? well we're here to help ya get it runnin right, as Bo ( not to be confused with Boo (ME) ) mentioned, remove the engine shroud, and clean those cooling fins till ya can eat off em ( LOL ) I use a product called "Purple-Power" bought at Walmart & auto parts stores I put it in a spray bottle and use it full strength on REALLY heavy dirt BUT you have to do sections at a time and rinse right away, this stuff is strong, and if left on for awhile, WILL eat off paint !! a good STIFF auto parts cleaning brush and some small screwdrivers and whatever you want to get between the fins and everything else, small paint brushes are good on other area's. BE sure you cover the ENTIRE carburetor and intake manifold, with something like Saran wrap or water-proof whatever !! when rinsing off, I used a small pitcher of water rinse & repeat RINSE THOROUGHLY ... RINSE THROUGHLY !!!! now use a blower, to blow all the water off ( I used my Compressor with an air nozzle ) but a leaf-blower will also work, I then used spray type carb cleaner to do the OUTSIDE of the carb, ( which was in good running order ) you can do this first then do the engine, whichever you prefer, DOUBLE check or even change the engine oil ( for water ) remember to clean inside the shroud ! as far as the muffler, I never had one THAT hot, so maybe the internal baffle(s) got fried ?? that's your call to hear it after it's running ???? I THINK I covered this in enuff detail ( LOL ) here'a few pics of what I had on my 17.5 HP, when I first bought it ! hope this is helpful Bill, keep us up-dated, ..... Boo
............https://www.walmart.com/ip/Purple-P...75035&wl11=online&wl12=16778256&wl13=&veh=sem
#5
Boobala
Boobala
#7
brchad
You gotta no fur shure dats a crawfish cher! We live in Virginia now (don't ask me why) so not too many mudbugs in the region. But da best damn bugs I ever eat came outta family owned ponds in Catahoula, La. (I'm just a honorary .... but my wife is a full blown Coonass!) Eunice.... dats up der near Sweveport yea?
The air shroud was the first thing I checked.... and yep... it was something like a mouse.... it's called a Vole in this part of the country. Nasty little vermin! I took the whole cover off and made sure everything was clear and clean. I had just put a new head on. So it's got to be something else.
I'm still tinkin' bout it dawlin!
brchad
You gotta no fur shure dats a crawfish cher! We live in Virginia now (don't ask me why) so not too many mudbugs in the region. But da best damn bugs I ever eat came outta family owned ponds in Catahoula, La. (I'm just a honorary .... but my wife is a full blown Coonass!) Eunice.... dats up der near Sweveport yea?
The air shroud was the first thing I checked.... and yep... it was something like a mouse.... it's called a Vole in this part of the country. Nasty little vermin! I took the whole cover off and made sure everything was clear and clean. I had just put a new head on. So it's got to be something else.
I'm still tinkin' bout it dawlin!
#8
brchad
brchad
#9
brchad
brchad
#10
brchad
brchad
#14
Boobala
Boobala
#15
Boobala
Boobala
#17
Boobala
I'll venture to say that Bill has checked that for sure, BUT then.. if he has a beer in one hand, and a sweetie on his other arm ...??? .. :banana:...
Boobala
I'll venture to say that Bill has checked that for sure, BUT then.. if he has a beer in one hand, and a sweetie on his other arm ...??? .. :banana:...
#18
Boobala
Boobala
#19
Boudreaux In Eunice La.
Boudreaux In Eunice La.
#21
brchad
brchad
#22
brchad
brchad
#23
brchad
brchad
Re: Well - I'm Back!! (UPDATE!)
Well.... I've eliminated some of the potential problems:
1. The fan is definitely spinning.... LOTS of cool air being circulated. Shroud is in place and engine head fins are totally clean.
2. Removed the muffler just to see if it was major dirty or even clogged. Nothing out of the ordinary.
3. Decided that perhaps some particulate or buildup in the valves was possible.... so I added a good shot of Sea Foam in 1/2 gallon of gas ....
4. OKAY .... no laughing allowed here! I decided to run the Sea Foam/gas mixture without replacing the muffler guard installed. It started up perfectly... running smoothly with throttle in the "Rabbit" position.
As I was backing out of the garage to make a test run when in a flash.... the exhaust noise increased to about DOUBLE the decibels! I put it in neutral... locked.... walked around to the front and laying on the garage floor was the entire front half of the muffler! (Was it someone here who said that nobody ever replaces them?) Ha!
This thing is running so hot it melted the spark plug boot and some electrical tape I had used .... trying to secure it better. All of the paint is burnt off of the muffler guard.
Next steps: Order a muffler.... ugh!!! Check the flywheel key.... make sure it's secure. CHECK THE VALVES! Sheesh!
Question: The last 4 inches or so of the plug wire and boot is SHOT. The wire is permanently attached to the magneto. Is there some acceptable way to splice a new wire on or do I need to buy a new magneto and wire assembly?
Thanks in advance for the help guys!
Well.... I've eliminated some of the potential problems:
1. The fan is definitely spinning.... LOTS of cool air being circulated. Shroud is in place and engine head fins are totally clean.
2. Removed the muffler just to see if it was major dirty or even clogged. Nothing out of the ordinary.
3. Decided that perhaps some particulate or buildup in the valves was possible.... so I added a good shot of Sea Foam in 1/2 gallon of gas ....
4. OKAY .... no laughing allowed here! I decided to run the Sea Foam/gas mixture without replacing the muffler guard installed. It started up perfectly... running smoothly with throttle in the "Rabbit" position.
As I was backing out of the garage to make a test run when in a flash.... the exhaust noise increased to about DOUBLE the decibels! I put it in neutral... locked.... walked around to the front and laying on the garage floor was the entire front half of the muffler! (Was it someone here who said that nobody ever replaces them?) Ha!
This thing is running so hot it melted the spark plug boot and some electrical tape I had used .... trying to secure it better. All of the paint is burnt off of the muffler guard.
Next steps: Order a muffler.... ugh!!! Check the flywheel key.... make sure it's secure. CHECK THE VALVES! Sheesh!
Question: The last 4 inches or so of the plug wire and boot is SHOT. The wire is permanently attached to the magneto. Is there some acceptable way to splice a new wire on or do I need to buy a new magneto and wire assembly?
Thanks in advance for the help guys!
#25
brchad
brchad
Hmmmm..... looks like I found the culprit. I can't even to begin to imagine how this engine was running AT ALL!
#27
Boobala
Boobala
#28
brchad
brchad
#29
brchad
brchad
#31
brchad
From my past experience with this engine.... there's no doubt in my mind that the valve settings could be the culprit. Before, it was about doing the settings 1/4" past top dead center.... to facilitate the compression release system which uses a small lobe on the cam shaft to release some pressure through the intake valve. I've tried to check and re-check the settings with no luck.
One other thing still concerns me with this engine. The intake manifold "elbow" .... where the manifold meets the engine head. It's not clear to me... and I've looked at every source I can find... why there would be what B&S calls a "Intake Restrictor" plate. That plate was installed when I bought the mower... and it ran fine. During a rebuild.... when I bought and installed a new Niki replacement carb.... it wasn't clear to me how (or if) it should be installed. The plate is a thin polished metal disc which would make sense... since the elbow uses a o-ring to mate with the head. But what gasket (if any) mates between the metal "disc" and the head itself. It appears like there may have been some sort of fiber gasket backing on that plate.... that is either missing or perhaps worn off. I'm going to order a new "restriction plate" to find out. I've tried using a regular carb gasket along with the plate.... without success.
I've never understood why they would use a restriction plate that basically limits the intake by half.... it's cut out like a half circle .... and installs (best I can tell from drawings) with the opening at the top. And.... of course.... the more you mess with the o-ring during installation... the more likely it becomes worn and causes a potential leak. Right now, that's at the top of my list of potential causes.
The only other thing I can think of is that the severe damage (shock) that the flywheel had (see the earlier picture) may have actually been powerful enough to bend or otherwise compromise the crankshaft somehow. I'm trying not to dwell on that idea!
Thanks for the interest. I will be checking the valves AGAIN tomorrow.... and see if I missed something there.
Bill
brchad
From my past experience with this engine.... there's no doubt in my mind that the valve settings could be the culprit. Before, it was about doing the settings 1/4" past top dead center.... to facilitate the compression release system which uses a small lobe on the cam shaft to release some pressure through the intake valve. I've tried to check and re-check the settings with no luck.
One other thing still concerns me with this engine. The intake manifold "elbow" .... where the manifold meets the engine head. It's not clear to me... and I've looked at every source I can find... why there would be what B&S calls a "Intake Restrictor" plate. That plate was installed when I bought the mower... and it ran fine. During a rebuild.... when I bought and installed a new Niki replacement carb.... it wasn't clear to me how (or if) it should be installed. The plate is a thin polished metal disc which would make sense... since the elbow uses a o-ring to mate with the head. But what gasket (if any) mates between the metal "disc" and the head itself. It appears like there may have been some sort of fiber gasket backing on that plate.... that is either missing or perhaps worn off. I'm going to order a new "restriction plate" to find out. I've tried using a regular carb gasket along with the plate.... without success.
I've never understood why they would use a restriction plate that basically limits the intake by half.... it's cut out like a half circle .... and installs (best I can tell from drawings) with the opening at the top. And.... of course.... the more you mess with the o-ring during installation... the more likely it becomes worn and causes a potential leak. Right now, that's at the top of my list of potential causes.
The only other thing I can think of is that the severe damage (shock) that the flywheel had (see the earlier picture) may have actually been powerful enough to bend or otherwise compromise the crankshaft somehow. I'm trying not to dwell on that idea!
Thanks for the interest. I will be checking the valves AGAIN tomorrow.... and see if I missed something there.
Bill
#33
brchad
brchad
I've worked long and hard.... rebuilt the entire mower..... here's the reward for my work. Ain't she a beauty now?
(CLICK PHOTO TO ENLARGE)
(CLICK PHOTO TO ENLARGE)