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Vintage Briggs, need info

#1

A

arch252

I just picked up a vintage B&S and I'm trying to date the engine if someone could help me. The Model is "6", the Type # is 105175 and the serial number is 48182 and I'm pretty sure there is a sixth digit in the serial number after the 2 but I cant make it out.


#2

A

arch252

Also, is this a 2hp?


#3

R

Rivets

Your engine was built in 1948. This manual might help you out if you try to restore it.

http://www.oldengine.org/members/murphy/Briggs & Stratton Repairman's Handbook.pdf


#4

A

arch252

Thanks once again Rivets! Way to come through, and yes, I do intend to restore it.


#5

A

arch252

Good grief, what a manual. It's amazing the changes in the engines then compared to today. They are just about idiot proof now compared to the technical skill required to rebuild one then. It also seems like there are probably about 1/3 of the parts in an 80's flathead compared to this 40's engine. That's just based on the manual. It may be simpler once I start to break it down and actually see for myself.


#6

A

arch252

I picked up that model 6 today and figured I'd post a couple of pictures. The Model is 6, the Type No. is 105173 and the Serial Number is 481825. Based on that I believe the correct manufacture date is October of 1954. The engine looks great. The tank is nearly perfect with very little surface rust inside, should clean up easily. I haven't attempted to start it but I can tell it has very strong compression and good spark. It had been stored in an attic but it appears that it was drained and prepared for storage. I'm wondering if I should go ahead and break it all down or put fresh oil and gas in it and see what happens. The perfectionist in me wants to break it completely down but I'm afraid if I do I may end up needing gaskets and other parts that I don't have and will be very hard to find. Opening a can or worms, you know, not sure if I should or not.

Also, when did Briggs introduce the recoil starter? The recoil starter appears original on the housing but I wasn't sure if that was standard in 1954. Judging by the photos, does this engine look correct?

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#7

R

Rivets

If you decide to restore these two websites might help you out. Believe it or not, many parts are still available.

http://www.briggsandstratton.com/eu...ls/Antique Manuals FAQ 2/Model 6-domestic.pdf

Old and Antique Briggs & Stratton Parts


#8

A

arch252

Thanks Rivets! Availability of parts is going to be a major factor in whether I go ahead and break it completely down or not, gaskets and oil seals in particular.


#9

silver1

silver1

I just picked up a vintage B&S and I'm trying to date the engine if someone could help me. The Model is "6", the Type # is 105175 and the serial number is 48182 and I'm pretty sure there is a sixth digit in the serial number after the 2 but I cant make it out.

This a 6b-s that is a 1957. The back of the flywheel has a "57" cast in it. Notice the B S on the cover.
Good luck on the restore.

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#10

A

arch252

That is the type of pulley starter I would expect on my engine, not the recoil starter, just makes me wonder if it's correct.


#11

B

bertsmobile1

Correct is a funny term, akin to authentic.
It is correct in so far that it is how the owner has been using it for 60 years, what more do you need ?
Did it leave the factory that way ?
Did it leave the showroom that way ?
Did the owner upgrade it at a latter date to make their life easier or safer ?
Dose it still function properly ?
Dose it matter ?

Well it does.
It is part of the history of the engine which should be more important than the catalogue correctness because the history of the engine is unique to that engine.
After all Briggs probably made 1/2 million of them of which 50% are still out there popping away doing what they were designed to do or sitting in the back of the shed "just in case".
It is one of those philosophical questions that haunts the vintage/ collector circles and never gets resolved.
People will crucify you for having "destroyed the authenticity" of the engine by leaving the recoil on.
However the same people will strip off all the original hammertone and repaint it with brand new 2015 paint to a much higher finish quality than the factory ever did then replace all the original fasteners with satin finish stainless steel ones, ypass the pints by fitting a module under the flywheel and think nothing about it.
What do you you want to admire ? The workmanship of the factory workers in 1950 using what was available in 1950 or what is current in 2015 ?


#12

B

bertsmobile1

Good grief, what a manual. It's amazing the changes in the engines then compared to today. They are just about idiot proof now compared to the technical skill required to rebuild one then. It also seems like there are probably about 1/3 of the parts in an 80's flathead compared to this 40's engine. That's just based on the manual. It may be simpler once I start to break it down and actually see for myself.

Well remember when it was made, finding jobs for all the demobbed soldiers was just about the No1 priority of governments so businesses were encouraged to use labour intensive manufacturing.
Also machinery was very expensive but manpower was very cheap so complicated was not a problem.
Materials technology was in it's infancy so designing to the limit of the materials was a long way off.
Production technology was still in the transmission from steam to electricity
And tooling was still done with high carbon steel or at the best high speed alloy steel.
Things we take for granted like carbide tooling that can make thousands of cuts while retaining it's original dimensions was 30 years away.
Also remember that most of the workforce was manual so the hand eye co-ordination of the the average person was much higher than in todays push button society.
Most people could grab a length of wood and cut a dead square end by eye.
Mechanical things were new, popular , exciting and grabbed the interest of the general public so we were far more mechanically literate than we are today.
Half the male population would have had the same levels of mechanical skills as the average professional mechanic has now days beause most machines required constant maintenance .


#13

A

arch252

Well........I cleaned the spark plug, changed the oil and put a little gas in it. It fired right up and runs like a champ.

Now my delimma, do I break it all down, sandblast and repaint, new decals, etc. OR leave it alone? I want to redo it and make it look really nice but I'm afraid if I break it down I may end up in an endless search fr parts and gaskets.


#14

silver1

silver1

Well........I cleaned the spark plug, changed the oil and put a little gas in it. It fired right up and runs like a champ.

Now my delimma, do I break it all down, sandblast and repaint, new decals, etc. OR leave it alone? I want to redo it and make it look really nice but I'm afraid if I break it down I may end up in an endless search fr parts and gaskets.

If you look on Ebay and other sites, you may find restored Model 6 engines for sale. You can look at them and decide if you want to restore yours or leave it
all original. Rivets gave you a very good manual with Part#. Look on Ebay to find what is there. You should be able to find the complete casket set. My 6B block was not taken apart. I removed the head and checked valves and cleaned carbon out. New head gasket and new bolts. I don't think my cover was correct with it cut out!


#15

A

arch252

Got up today to find that the carb was leaking, not surprising that those old gaskets were dried out. So at the very least the carb will be coming off. I love those old metal fuel lines, what a great look.


#16

silver1

silver1

Got up today to find that the carb was leaking, not surprising that those old gaskets were dried out. So at the very least the carb will be coming off. I love those old metal fuel lines, what a great look.

I think the position of the gas tank maybe wrong. I see them on the other side of engine with longer metal fuel lines.


#17

A

arch252

I noticed that as well looking at a picture of another model 6. I'm pretty sure I can swap it back and I'd like to do that to show off the carb and get the tank away from the exhaust. My only reservation is trying it straighten that copper line.


#18

B

bertsmobile1

Interchangable as is the case with most stationary engines.
You have to be able to get to the line & in particular the tap without hanging from the roof


#19

A

arch252

I also thought it was interchangeable, I just went out to tinker with it. The three mounting holes in the fuel tank mount plate only match the carb side of the cylinder head, the mounting plate cannot be switched to the other side, the bolt holes do not align. I could certainly bore new holes but I don't intend to do so. That is definitely the factory mounting plate and it had to come with the tank on the carb side.


#20

A

arch252

Can anyone let me know where I could find a head gasket for this model 6? I've had no luck locally or with any of the regular online sources. Photos with measurements are attached.

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#21

R

Rivets

The original part number for the head gasket is 291301, which has been superseded to 27463. Should be available through your local Briggs dealer or repair shop. If not it can be ordered from Jacks Small Engines for about $5.00.


#22

silver1

silver1

That is the type of pulley starter I would expect on my engine, not the recoil starter, just makes me wonder if it's correct.

Do you have it apart? I would like to see the clutch assy. My 6B S will not take a 60102 starter clutch. The crank snout is different.


#23

R

Rivets



#24

silver1

silver1



#25

A

arch252

Re: Vintage Briggs, need info, UPDATED

Bert, just look away now, you won't want to see this. I know more than half of you will want to stone me for rebuilding this 54 Briggs. I was able to find all of the engine and carb gaskets so I replaced all of those. Completely broke it down and sandblasted it clean. Refinished, repainted and I love how it turned out. My only decision now is whether to put gas in it and crank it or leave the tank and carb clean for now. It was running great before I broke it down, no reason to believe it won't still run great. Sorry to all of those who hate a rebuilt vintage engine.

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#26

B

bertsmobile1

Nice looking job.
Got nothing against old engines.
I ride a 60 year old motorcycle and am 2/3rds through a 95 year old bike.


#27

reynoldston

reynoldston

In our town we have a club that restores old engines and tractors. Then once a year they put on a 3 day show/flee market in the town park. They always have a big turn out so you aren't alone when it comes to restoring old engines. They always have a lot of the old hit and miss engines at this show and old engines that are very rare. This is farm country and these old engines ran farm equipment back in the early 1900's.


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