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Vari-drive information request
#1
J
jmelton86
J
jmelton86
14AT809H766 with the vari-drive system. *see attachment
I recently changed both drive belts with MTD p#'s and the mower drove as it should for about 5 minutes (I was so happy LoL) then the pedal went to the floor and the mower stopped moving again.
I checked all pulleys/ "throttle" linkage/ etc and it seemed like the belt magically grew a few inches. If I pressed the "throttle" pedal hard enough, the belt would start smoking on the front crank pulley -almost like it was JUST tight enough to rub the pulley (and smoke) but, not hard enough to move the mower. I jacked the rear end off the ground and the wheels would turn but, not with them on the ground and loaded down.
After scratching my head and cursing a LOT I found this YouTube video that seems to be my exact same issue.
https://youtu.be/Ya_IYt-psGE
So, I plan on ordering the vari-drive pulley and going from there.
My question for you guys is, going by the image of the drive system I have attached, what all should I order along with the pulley to do it all at once. Diagram reference numbers are requested. *The pulley itself is #47.
TIA
I recently changed both drive belts with MTD p#'s and the mower drove as it should for about 5 minutes (I was so happy LoL) then the pedal went to the floor and the mower stopped moving again.
I checked all pulleys/ "throttle" linkage/ etc and it seemed like the belt magically grew a few inches. If I pressed the "throttle" pedal hard enough, the belt would start smoking on the front crank pulley -almost like it was JUST tight enough to rub the pulley (and smoke) but, not hard enough to move the mower. I jacked the rear end off the ground and the wheels would turn but, not with them on the ground and loaded down.
After scratching my head and cursing a LOT I found this YouTube video that seems to be my exact same issue.
https://youtu.be/Ya_IYt-psGE
So, I plan on ordering the vari-drive pulley and going from there.
My question for you guys is, going by the image of the drive system I have attached, what all should I order along with the pulley to do it all at once. Diagram reference numbers are requested. *The pulley itself is #47.
TIA
Attachments
#2
S
SeniorCitizen
S
SeniorCitizen
Does the book specify that you can order the pulley only or are you getting a complete assembly? If that's an unknown I would be getting more information from the supplier before ordering.
On line/ordering is usually much too vague for my taste.
On line/ordering is usually much too vague for my taste.
#3
J
jmelton86
J
jmelton86
As far as I know, parts (by diagram #) have to be ordered separately -unless there is a kit available that I'm unaware of.
What I do is get the OE p# and buy from wherever is less expensive. Usually Amazon.
What I'm wanting to know is, for the guys who have experience with this vari-drive pulley and system, what all I should order along with the pulley (#47 on the diagram) so I can have everything I need to do it at once.
What I do is get the OE p# and buy from wherever is less expensive. Usually Amazon.
What I'm wanting to know is, for the guys who have experience with this vari-drive pulley and system, what all I should order along with the pulley (#47 on the diagram) so I can have everything I need to do it at once.
#4
S
SeniorCitizen
Hopefully I never see at another one but I did order all the internal components from Jack's. Did not purchase a new pulley.
And I do know for a fact the moveable pulley can stick/freeze to the shaft. With both belts removed from the variator, the moveable pulley should move with a light touch of the fingers.
If you can provide me with a parts break down of all the parts to that pulley I can tell you what parts to order so you will have all the parts to do it at once.
S
SeniorCitizen
I have experienced 1 of those systems for a neighbor on an older model that had the speed control lever on the dash.As far as I know, parts (by diagram #) have to be ordered separately -unless there is a kit available that I'm unaware of.
What I do is get the OE p# and buy from wherever is less expensive. Usually Amazon.
What I'm wanting to know is, for the guys who have experience with this vari-drive pulley and system, what all I should order along with the pulley (#47 on the diagram) so I can have everything I need to do it at once.
Hopefully I never see at another one but I did order all the internal components from Jack's. Did not purchase a new pulley.
And I do know for a fact the moveable pulley can stick/freeze to the shaft. With both belts removed from the variator, the moveable pulley should move with a light touch of the fingers.
If you can provide me with a parts break down of all the parts to that pulley I can tell you what parts to order so you will have all the parts to do it at once.
#5
J
jmelton86
J
jmelton86
I don't think the pulley can be broken down into individual parts -per the parts breakdown I attached on the original post.
I plan on ordering the pulley assembly (#47 on the attached parts breakdown from the original post) as well as anything else I may need.
What else would you order off of the breakdown? I'd like to have everything in hand before repairing the mower.
I plan on ordering the pulley assembly (#47 on the attached parts breakdown from the original post) as well as anything else I may need.
What else would you order off of the breakdown? I'd like to have everything in hand before repairing the mower.
#6
J
jmelton86
J
jmelton86
Is it #44 that I need? Pulley bearing cup?
I really have no idea here. Anyone done this before that can shed some light?
I really have no idea here. Anyone done this before that can shed some light?
#7
BlazNT
BlazNT
Each machine is different. You need to look at the parts and see what really needs replaced. I personally would look at all parts starting with 40 all the way through 47. Idler pulleys #35 (3 of them) also need tested for free spinning and no noise.
#8
J
jmelton86
J
jmelton86
I understand what you're saying. Most people would remove the assembly to see exactly what the issue is but, I'm the kind of person that would rather have everything in-hand when I disassemble it. That way I can knock it out at the time. I'd rather replace more than I have to -just so I know I won't have to tear it back down later.
Before coming to the conclusion that he vari-drive pulley assembly thing is bad, I did check out all other pulleys, brackets, linkage, etc and found nothing out of the ordinary. I was honestly frustrated because I had just replaced the belts and wasn't expecting any issues. That was before I found the video I linked to in the original post. I've never heard of the vari-drive system (or anything like it before.
I guess I'm going to order all the parts around the pulley (minus bolts/nuts because I can get them at the local hardware store for WAY less if I need them) and go from there.
I guess I was hoping maybe someone has done this repair on this particular model.
Before coming to the conclusion that he vari-drive pulley assembly thing is bad, I did check out all other pulleys, brackets, linkage, etc and found nothing out of the ordinary. I was honestly frustrated because I had just replaced the belts and wasn't expecting any issues. That was before I found the video I linked to in the original post. I've never heard of the vari-drive system (or anything like it before.
I guess I'm going to order all the parts around the pulley (minus bolts/nuts because I can get them at the local hardware store for WAY less if I need them) and go from there.
I guess I was hoping maybe someone has done this repair on this particular model.
#9
B
bertsmobile1
B
bertsmobile1
If the pedal goes strait to the flloor with no resistance, a spring has fallen off or is in the wrong position or a bolt has fallen out.
If the pulley is totally buggered, the mower will still drive and the belt won't go slack.
The front belt pulls against the rear belt which has a constant spring pressure on it.
By varying the load applied by the pedal, the belt that is pulling hardest against the varidrive pulley will force the sliding sheave away & thus turn on a smaller diameter.
So something you did properly, has come undone.
It is usually the short top belt, because it is the hardest to get at and on a lot of insallations you have to drop the tranny to get the belt on the pulley.
If that is your installation ( Vari drive at the far back ) then the prime suspect is the top belt tension pulley & I would guess you have not put the spring back in the correct position or the spring ( or pivot) has fallen off.
If you insist on throwing a lot of money at it just note that the diagram is wrong and the 3 pulleys all marked 35 are not the same, one of then is flat & two are V.
So get back under there with a good strong light and recheck.
I always mark spring anchor points with a paint pen and take photos before anything gets pulled off because the same frame is used for dozens of different mowers so there are holes all over the place and it is real easy to slip the spring into the wrong hole
If the pulley is totally buggered, the mower will still drive and the belt won't go slack.
The front belt pulls against the rear belt which has a constant spring pressure on it.
By varying the load applied by the pedal, the belt that is pulling hardest against the varidrive pulley will force the sliding sheave away & thus turn on a smaller diameter.
So something you did properly, has come undone.
It is usually the short top belt, because it is the hardest to get at and on a lot of insallations you have to drop the tranny to get the belt on the pulley.
If that is your installation ( Vari drive at the far back ) then the prime suspect is the top belt tension pulley & I would guess you have not put the spring back in the correct position or the spring ( or pivot) has fallen off.
If you insist on throwing a lot of money at it just note that the diagram is wrong and the 3 pulleys all marked 35 are not the same, one of then is flat & two are V.
So get back under there with a good strong light and recheck.
I always mark spring anchor points with a paint pen and take photos before anything gets pulled off because the same frame is used for dozens of different mowers so there are holes all over the place and it is real easy to slip the spring into the wrong hole
#10
S
SeniorCitizen
S
SeniorCitizen
I don't think you are listening and you don't really have any idea what is wrong.And I do know for a fact the moveable pulley can stick/freeze to the shaft. With both belts removed from the variator, the moveable pulley should move with a light touch of the fingers.
#11
J
jmelton86
It is actually quite easy to access the belts. A buddy of mine and I replaced both belts within an hour. You can get directly to both belts via the battery tray and temporarily separating the rearend/gear case assy.
Nothing has fallen off. The top belt is intact and working as it should. All pulleys are spinning freely. I replaced both belts so I have inspected everything twice now. Haven't messed with the vari-drive thing (never messed with one) so I'm trying to finger out what all I should replace.
J
jmelton86
If the pedal goes strait to the flloor with no resistance, a spring has fallen off or is in the wrong position or a bolt has fallen out.
If the pulley is totally buggered, the mower will still drive and the belt won't go slack.
The front belt pulls against the rear belt which has a constant spring pressure on it.
By varying the load applied by the pedal, the belt that is pulling hardest against the varidrive pulley will force the sliding sheave away & thus turn on a smaller diameter.
So something you did properly, has come undone.
It is usually the short top belt, because it is the hardest to get at and on a lot of insallations you have to drop the tranny to get the belt on the pulley.
If that is your installation ( Vari drive at the far back ) then the prime suspect is the top belt tension pulley & I would guess you have not put the spring back in the correct position or the spring ( or pivot) has fallen off.
If you insist on throwing a lot of money at it just note that the diagram is wrong and the 3 pulleys all marked 35 are not the same, one of then is flat & two are V.
So get back under there with a good strong light and recheck.
I always mark spring anchor points with a paint pen and take photos before anything gets pulled off because the same frame is used for dozens of different mowers so there are holes all over the place and it is real easy to slip the spring into the wrong hole
It is actually quite easy to access the belts. A buddy of mine and I replaced both belts within an hour. You can get directly to both belts via the battery tray and temporarily separating the rearend/gear case assy.
Nothing has fallen off. The top belt is intact and working as it should. All pulleys are spinning freely. I replaced both belts so I have inspected everything twice now. Haven't messed with the vari-drive thing (never messed with one) so I'm trying to finger out what all I should replace.
#12
J
jmelton86
J
jmelton86
There isn't anything that could have shifted/ loosenend/ etc so, it has to be that pulley thing.
I dropped the deck and laid under there (getting like 5 stickers in my back) messing with/ fumbling with everything for a few minutes.
I dropped the deck and laid under there (getting like 5 stickers in my back) messing with/ fumbling with everything for a few minutes.
#13
B
bertsmobile1
B
bertsmobile1
If the Vari drive pulley is totally wrecked, bearings broken up and sliding sheave rusted solid into position, the thing will still work.
It might only drive in the lowest settings or be a fixed speed, but it will work.
This I know because that is the condition of the mowers I work on.
However if the spring tension is relaxed it won't work.
The new belts were a bit stiff so if spring 20 or 22 was put back into the wrong hole then the set up will work for little while the go too slack once the belts have conformed to the pulleys.
So back to the original suggestion.
get a good strong light and look for fretting marks where the springs rub on the frame.
Most of these, the springs simply go into a hole and there are a lot of holes.
The springs do loose tension and in particular the top belt spring.
Now it is possible that the belts have worn the contact faces on the sliding sheave to a point that the belt can no longer grip but I am yet to see one on this set up with the common pulley.
The set ups with two sliding sheaves as used on a lot of Stiga mowers are different as it is possible for both pulleys to be at their smallest diameter but not on this set up where both belts run on a common pulley.
The OP says the belt ( I assume he means the bottom one ) seems like it is 2" too long.
That means the center to center distance between the pulleys would have to be 1" shorter than it was and there is no way you get that much movement from collapsed bearings.
However if the spring is in the wrong place or the bottom belt routed wrong through the clutching pulleys you will get a sudden slackness in the belt.
It would be really helpfull if we knew why the belts were being replaced in the first place and if the owner checked to new belts against the old ones.
Now replacing all the pulleys & sheaves will not hurt and will improve the perormance of the mower, if the spring tension is wrong, it will only be for a short time & will not have fixed the problem.
It might only drive in the lowest settings or be a fixed speed, but it will work.
This I know because that is the condition of the mowers I work on.
However if the spring tension is relaxed it won't work.
The new belts were a bit stiff so if spring 20 or 22 was put back into the wrong hole then the set up will work for little while the go too slack once the belts have conformed to the pulleys.
So back to the original suggestion.
get a good strong light and look for fretting marks where the springs rub on the frame.
Most of these, the springs simply go into a hole and there are a lot of holes.
The springs do loose tension and in particular the top belt spring.
Now it is possible that the belts have worn the contact faces on the sliding sheave to a point that the belt can no longer grip but I am yet to see one on this set up with the common pulley.
The set ups with two sliding sheaves as used on a lot of Stiga mowers are different as it is possible for both pulleys to be at their smallest diameter but not on this set up where both belts run on a common pulley.
The OP says the belt ( I assume he means the bottom one ) seems like it is 2" too long.
That means the center to center distance between the pulleys would have to be 1" shorter than it was and there is no way you get that much movement from collapsed bearings.
However if the spring is in the wrong place or the bottom belt routed wrong through the clutching pulleys you will get a sudden slackness in the belt.
It would be really helpfull if we knew why the belts were being replaced in the first place and if the owner checked to new belts against the old ones.
Now replacing all the pulleys & sheaves will not hurt and will improve the perormance of the mower, if the spring tension is wrong, it will only be for a short time & will not have fixed the problem.
#14
S
SeniorCitizen
S
SeniorCitizen
In case I wasn't previously clear, in this picture the center portion of the pulley system must easily move up and down with both belts removed or it will not operate as designed.
Attachments
#15
J
jmelton86
The belts were replaced in the first place because the mower wouldn't move. I assumed the drive belt went out.
I replaced both drive belts with ease. All pulleys, etc worked correctly at that time so, I replaced both drive belts.
It FELT LIKE the belt was too long. It not only happend before I replaced the belts but, even after I replaced the belts and after the next paragraph.
I replaced both drive belts and the mower moved like it should for 15 or so minutes. After that the pedal went to the floor and it stopped moving. See original post.
J
jmelton86
If the Vari drive pulley is totally wrecked, bearings broken up and sliding sheave rusted solid into position, the thing will still work.
It might only drive in the lowest settings or be a fixed speed, but it will work.
This I know because that is the condition of the mowers I work on.
However if the spring tension is relaxed it won't work.
The new belts were a bit stiff so if spring 20 or 22 was put back into the wrong hole then the set up will work for little while the go too slack once the belts have conformed to the pulleys.
So back to the original suggestion.
get a good strong light and look for fretting marks where the springs rub on the frame.
Most of these, the springs simply go into a hole and there are a lot of holes.
The springs do loose tension and in particular the top belt spring.
Now it is possible that the belts have worn the contact faces on the sliding sheave to a point that the belt can no longer grip but I am yet to see one on this set up with the common pulley.
The set ups with two sliding sheaves as used on a lot of Stiga mowers are different as it is possible for both pulleys to be at their smallest diameter but not on this set up where both belts run on a common pulley.
The OP says the belt ( I assume he means the bottom one ) seems like it is 2" too long.
That means the center to center distance between the pulleys would have to be 1" shorter than it was and there is no way you get that much movement from collapsed bearings.
However if the spring is in the wrong place or the bottom belt routed wrong through the clutching pulleys you will get a sudden slackness in the belt.
It would be really helpfull if we knew why the belts were being replaced in the first place and if the owner checked to new belts against the old ones.
Now replacing all the pulleys & sheaves will not hurt and will improve the perormance of the mower, if the spring tension is wrong, it will only be for a short time & will not have fixed the problem.
The belts were replaced in the first place because the mower wouldn't move. I assumed the drive belt went out.
I replaced both drive belts with ease. All pulleys, etc worked correctly at that time so, I replaced both drive belts.
It FELT LIKE the belt was too long. It not only happend before I replaced the belts but, even after I replaced the belts and after the next paragraph.
I replaced both drive belts and the mower moved like it should for 15 or so minutes. After that the pedal went to the floor and it stopped moving. See original post.
#16
B
bertsmobile1
I know what you are saying and I am not disputing it.
However if the sliding flange is rusted solid in one position, the mower will still move , it just won't change speed, and their will be resistance to the speed control pedal.
If the speed control pedal goes strait down with no resistance it is not pulling against the spring & front belt.
So the vari drive pulley will make no difference.
IF it dosent move and there IS resistance to the speed control pedal then you would suspect the diff & Forward/ reverse sliding dog or even the input shaft.
B
bertsmobile1
In case I wasn't previously clear, in this picture the center portion of the pulley system must easily move up and down with both belts removed or it will not operate as designed.
I know what you are saying and I am not disputing it.
However if the sliding flange is rusted solid in one position, the mower will still move , it just won't change speed, and their will be resistance to the speed control pedal.
If the speed control pedal goes strait down with no resistance it is not pulling against the spring & front belt.
So the vari drive pulley will make no difference.
IF it dosent move and there IS resistance to the speed control pedal then you would suspect the diff & Forward/ reverse sliding dog or even the input shaft.
#17
B
bertsmobile1
B
bertsmobile1
Now we are getting somewhere.
Were the new belts the same as the old belts ?
how did you decide which belts to buy ?
Off the mower serial numbers or by comparison to the old belts ?
How long have you had this mower, ? since new, Second hand ?
Have the belts been replaced before ?
Before it stopped did it drive through the full speed range, or would it only tun at low speeds ?
This is the first sign of worn belts, so if it was not doing that then something else cause the mower to stop.
What troubles me is your assertion that the belts were easy to replace.
They are a PIA to remove usually as the springs are near impossible to remove and even harder to replace.
I might be a little on the old and feeble side but I had to make to spring pullers specific to each & every model to get Varidrive springs off & on.
If it was really easy, something is wrong with the assembly.
Pull the deck, stand the mower on its bum ( mind fuel or battery acid spilling ) and take some photos WITH A REAL CAMERA NOT A SMART PHONE then post them so we can see how it is hooked up.
My gut still says the springs are not tight enough.
The rear belt should be tight enough to bow a jig on if you are a fiddle player and the front tighter still.
It is all about spring tension
Were the new belts the same as the old belts ?
how did you decide which belts to buy ?
Off the mower serial numbers or by comparison to the old belts ?
How long have you had this mower, ? since new, Second hand ?
Have the belts been replaced before ?
Before it stopped did it drive through the full speed range, or would it only tun at low speeds ?
This is the first sign of worn belts, so if it was not doing that then something else cause the mower to stop.
What troubles me is your assertion that the belts were easy to replace.
They are a PIA to remove usually as the springs are near impossible to remove and even harder to replace.
I might be a little on the old and feeble side but I had to make to spring pullers specific to each & every model to get Varidrive springs off & on.
If it was really easy, something is wrong with the assembly.
Pull the deck, stand the mower on its bum ( mind fuel or battery acid spilling ) and take some photos WITH A REAL CAMERA NOT A SMART PHONE then post them so we can see how it is hooked up.
My gut still says the springs are not tight enough.
The rear belt should be tight enough to bow a jig on if you are a fiddle player and the front tighter still.
It is all about spring tension
#18
Boobala
Boobala
Go to this site (clik link )
.............http://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/MTD-Service-Repair-Manuals/
clik on these manuals .... good pics & diagrams ...Troybilt is an MTD made mach.
A. 770-10578
B. 770-10579
.............http://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/MTD-Service-Repair-Manuals/
clik on these manuals .... good pics & diagrams ...Troybilt is an MTD made mach.
A. 770-10578
B. 770-10579
#19
J
jmelton86
I got the MTD part #s off of the mower itself. They are also listed in the owners manual. Again, I used OE MTD belts.
I got the mower secondhand. It drove as it should for the first cut after I got it. The pedal went to the floor so, I assumed the belts stretched and replaced them.
They have not been replaced before this.
Before it stopped moving, it drove at all speeds. Not only before I replaced the belts but, even after I replaced them until the pedal went to the floor again.
What springs are you talking about? The only spring I had to work with was from the tensioner on the smaller drive belt. I did have to use two hands on it but, still.
J
jmelton86
Now we are getting somewhere.
Were the new belts the same as the old belts ?
how did you decide which belts to buy ?
Off the mower serial numbers or by comparison to the old belts ?
How long have you had this mower, ? since new, Second hand ?
Have the belts been replaced before ?
Before it stopped did it drive through the full speed range, or would it only tun at low speeds ?
This is the first sign of worn belts, so if it was not doing that then something else cause the mower to stop.
What troubles me is your assertion that the belts were easy to replace.
They are a PIA to remove usually as the springs are near impossible to remove and even harder to replace.
I might be a little on the old and feeble side but I had to make to spring pullers specific to each & every model to get Varidrive springs off & on.
If it was really easy, something is wrong with the assembly.
Pull the deck, stand the mower on its bum ( mind fuel or battery acid spilling ) and take some photos WITH A REAL CAMERA NOT A SMART PHONE then post them so we can see how it is hooked up.
My gut still says the springs are not tight enough.
The rear belt should be tight enough to bow a jig on if you are a fiddle player and the front tighter still.
It is all about spring tension
I got the MTD part #s off of the mower itself. They are also listed in the owners manual. Again, I used OE MTD belts.
I got the mower secondhand. It drove as it should for the first cut after I got it. The pedal went to the floor so, I assumed the belts stretched and replaced them.
They have not been replaced before this.
Before it stopped moving, it drove at all speeds. Not only before I replaced the belts but, even after I replaced them until the pedal went to the floor again.
What springs are you talking about? The only spring I had to work with was from the tensioner on the smaller drive belt. I did have to use two hands on it but, still.
#20
J
jmelton86
Thank for the link but, all I have to do is go to searspartsdirect.com and type in my model number.
J
jmelton86
Go to this site (clik link )
.............http://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/MTD-Service-Repair-Manuals/
clik on these manuals .... good pics & diagrams ...Troybilt is an MTD made mach.
A. 770-10578
B. 770-10579
Thank for the link but, all I have to do is go to searspartsdirect.com and type in my model number.
#21
J
jmelton86
All other pulleys/ etc in the drivetrain are in good working order. This is the only thing that the problem could be however, I have not physically checked operation of this pulley. It's all that's left in the drive train though, so this has to be the culprit.
J
jmelton86
In case I wasn't previously clear, in this picture the center portion of the pulley system must easily move up and down with both belts removed or it will not operate as designed.
All other pulleys/ etc in the drivetrain are in good working order. This is the only thing that the problem could be however, I have not physically checked operation of this pulley. It's all that's left in the drive train though, so this has to be the culprit.
#22
S
SeniorCitizen
S
SeniorCitizen
Isn't that what I said when I wrote " will not operate as designed "However if the sliding flange is rusted solid in one position, the mower will still move , it just won't change speed, and their will be resistance to the speed control pedal.
#23
J
jmelton86
J
jmelton86
I'm guessing I will order parts 41-47 unless someone knows for sure.
I do appreciate the help from all of you.
I do appreciate the help from all of you.
#24
R
Rocky J
R
Rocky J
My neighbors mower does pretty much the same thing twice a year, I remove the tin shiftier cover and squirt ATF back into the variable pulley and tap the center part that is intended to move up and down with the peddle position with a wood dowel from top and bottom and it comes free and it works fine again. Looks like when it is stuck down and the peddle is let up the front belt is loose enough to slip off.Been squirting it twice a year for three years and it keeps going. He never mentions it slipping from the ATF and it does not make the belt come apart.I think it gets sticky or gummy from mowing wet grass, looks like a car wash coming across the yard. It says Shift on the go MTD on it.I keep hoping it will blow up before a major repair, Vise grips on the fuel line for a shut off and o ring on throttle shaft because it sucks air around it, every switch is bypassed,uses a screw driver on solenoid to start, Air up the tires and top off the oil and put the wet side of the couch cushion down. Good old mowers if they would have stayed away from the plastic parts.
#25
S
SeniorCitizen
Have you considered changing professions and writing a lawn mower comic strip? You'd be good at it!!!!
And if the truth be known there are thousands of mowers operating just like yours.
S
SeniorCitizen
My neighbors mower does pretty much the same thing twice a year, I remove the tin shiftier cover and squirt ATF back into the variable pulley and tap the center part that is intended to move up and down with the peddle position with a wood dowel from top and bottom and it comes free and it works fine again. Looks like when it is stuck down and the peddle is let up the front belt is loose enough to slip off.Been squirting it twice a year for three years and it keeps going. He never mentions it slipping from the ATF and it does not make the belt come apart.I think it gets sticky or gummy from mowing wet grass, looks like a car wash coming across the yard. It says Shift on the go MTD on it.I keep hoping it will blow up before a major repair, Vise grips on the fuel line for a shut off and o ring on throttle shaft because it sucks air around it, every switch is bypassed,uses a screw driver on solenoid to start, Air up the tires and top off the oil and put the wet side of the couch cushion down. Good old mowers if they would have stayed away from the plastic parts.
Have you considered changing professions and writing a lawn mower comic strip? You'd be good at it!!!!
And if the truth be known there are thousands of mowers operating just like yours.
#26
J
jmelton86
That is really good to know! I'd kinda like to just replace what I need to and be done with it to be honest. Everything else on the mower is in great condition (minus having to put air in the front tires each cut and the parking brake that doesn't work -which both are not big deals).
Looking at the diagram I attached on the first post, what would you order?
J
jmelton86
My neighbors mower does pretty much the same thing twice a year, I remove the tin shiftier cover and squirt ATF back into the variable pulley and tap the center part that is intended to move up and down with the peddle position with a wood dowel from top and bottom and it comes free and it works fine again. Looks like when it is stuck down and the peddle is let up the front belt is loose enough to slip off.Been squirting it twice a year for three years and it keeps going. He never mentions it slipping from the ATF and it does not make the belt come apart.I think it gets sticky or gummy from mowing wet grass, looks like a car wash coming across the yard. It says Shift on the go MTD on it.I keep hoping it will blow up before a major repair, Vise grips on the fuel line for a shut off and o ring on throttle shaft because it sucks air around it, every switch is bypassed,uses a screw driver on solenoid to start, Air up the tires and top off the oil and put the wet side of the couch cushion down. Good old mowers if they would have stayed away from the plastic parts.
That is really good to know! I'd kinda like to just replace what I need to and be done with it to be honest. Everything else on the mower is in great condition (minus having to put air in the front tires each cut and the parking brake that doesn't work -which both are not big deals).
Looking at the diagram I attached on the first post, what would you order?
#27
Boobala
THESE are NOT parts manuals... They're FACTORY service manuals , showing very good pics and detail of these mowers
take a look .... at the deck sections showing spring locations .
Also shows the vari-drive components .
Boobala
Thank for the link but, all I have to do is go to searspartsdirect.com and type in my model number.
THESE are NOT parts manuals... They're FACTORY service manuals , showing very good pics and detail of these mowers
take a look .... at the deck sections showing spring locations .
Also shows the vari-drive components .
#28
J
jmelton86
They show one paragraph about the vari-drive pulley, including a part number for needle bearings -and they aren't very specific about which model the bearings are for.
Thanks but, I get more out of the parts break down than that haha
I'm pretty sure I know what I need; the pulley, pulley bearings, and may just order the bearing cup in case the bearings are seized into the old cup. I will be sure to update when I get them installed (which just might be next spring LoL).
J
jmelton86
THESE are NOT parts manuals... They're FACTORY service manuals , showing very good pics and detail of these mowers
take a look .... at the deck sections showing spring locations .
Also shows the vari-drive components .
They show one paragraph about the vari-drive pulley, including a part number for needle bearings -and they aren't very specific about which model the bearings are for.
Thanks but, I get more out of the parts break down than that haha
I'm pretty sure I know what I need; the pulley, pulley bearings, and may just order the bearing cup in case the bearings are seized into the old cup. I will be sure to update when I get them installed (which just might be next spring LoL).