Valve Adjustment..

[Michael72]

true... I do enjoy getting these old solid blocks in to work on....getting few and far between nowadays unfortunately....

 

[motoman]

My point on the absence of owner manual callout for valve attention on (my) Intek is that it is short sighted , not that any owner should attempt such maintenance himself. So Craftsman is doing an upside down favor to the owner. Read the troublshooting guide first to understand that valves may need attention. At sale point in Sears in 2004 there was verbal counseling to find a service tech. Is this just another "I've got a secret" example buried in marketing taboo? And, of course, my familiar rant about overheating...blah, blah,blah. :thumbsup:

 

[bertsmobile1]

I can do trivia lol....good read and thanks

Go see Professor Google using piston drop vs crank rotation calculator as your question.
When you find a calculator plug in some numbers and you will see when you get close to TDC ( or BDC ) you get a massive amount of rotation for a very tiny amount of piston drop.
That is why the piston stop method mentioned earlier is the only method worth using for Joe Public.
I have used the valve fully open while adjusting the other for all my life as I was brought up with BSA motorcycles that use substantial opening & closing ramps.

Also take in the comment that you are working on a lawnmower in a very soft ( thus forgiving ) state of tune and not a NASCAR top fueler.

I get mowers in all the time with either no valve clearence at all ( no I never let it run out of all what makes ou ask that ) or clearances that are 2 to 3 times bigger than std.
Most of them are running when they come in they are just had to start ( takes 1/2 can of starter fluid ) or arn't quite running right ( doing 4000 rpm or unable to exeed 2000 ).

Sprit series are really low tech, low tune & thus very tollerant to low / no maintenance

 

[Michael72]

Go see Professor Google using piston drop vs crank rotation calculator as your question.
When you find a calculator plug in some numbers and you will see when you get close to TDC ( or BDC ) you get a massive amount of rotation for a very tiny amount of piston drop.
That is why the piston stop method mentioned earlier is the only method worth using for Joe Public.
I have used the valve fully open while adjusting the other for all my life as I was brought up with BSA motorcycles that use substantial opening & closing ramps.

Also take in the comment that you are working on a lawnmower in a very soft ( thus forgiving ) state of tune and not a NASCAR top fueler.

I get mowers in all the time with either no valve clearence at all ( no I never let it run out of all what makes ou ask that ) or clearances that are 2 to 3 times bigger than std.
Most of them are running when they come in they are just had to start ( takes 1/2 can of starter fluid ) or arn't quite running right ( doing 4000 rpm or unable to exeed 2000 ).

Sprit series are really low tech, low tune & thus very tollerant to low / no maintenance

Bingo thank you ...Ok... its just a 35 classic, piece of cake...The aim of the thread was to pull some info from the big boys at the other side of the pond ...having had bikes myself for years and some work on an Yamaha XT 500 of late that is the method I used and use to correct valves ( one open,...) IMO it is the only way to find the true relation of valve stem to rod, when the valves are actually working so to speak (Not possible for every motor I know)....Not to many of us small engine folk round these parts so its good to hear other opinions/experience etc... :thumbsup: