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Toro Timemaster 30" shuts off after 20-25 mins

#1

P

packrunner

I have Timemaster with Briggs & Stratton 10HP engine. It shut off after 20 mins or so like it has fun out of fuel. I thought it was ignition coil overheating. Replaced coil and still having same problem. Usually I just add more fuel and it cranks back up and I finishing mowing. Anyone have any ideas of what might be causing this? Any help or suggestions is much appreciated.


#2

M

MParr

Trash in fuel tank.
Vapor lock.
Fuel filter.
Fuel tank cap.


#3

P

packrunner

I checked the fuel cap. There is nothing to clean. Don't see what on the fuel cap could be causing this.


#4

Scrubcadet10

Scrubcadet10

when it starts to run funny, loosen the gas cap and see if it starts to run better.. if the tank can not vent properly, Air can not get in, so gas can not go out.
most tanks are vented through the gas cap.


#5

S

slomo

Ignition coil going bad.

Was this a real Briggs OEM coil or some Chi-sneeze low dollar special?


#6

B

bertsmobile1

The instant it stops pull the fuel line off at the fuel pump and blow back through the line.
put it back and see if the engine fires right up
If it dose then the tank has trash in it as Mparr mentioned in the first reply


#7

M

MParr

Drain and clean your carburetor bowl.


#8

Paul V

Paul V

This season I've been battling the same thing - stalling after mowing fine for some time, and difficult to restart. I noticed air in the fuel filter, causing rough idle and ultimately stalling altogether. Long story short, I will be draining the fuel and replacing with 0% ethanol fuel that I purchased at Home Depot in a can (no stations near me offer 0%). Research has informed me that ethanol is the enemy of small engines. Ethanol blended fuels also have a higher vapor pressure, meaning that it will vaporize more easily, such as on a hot day, causing vapor lock. Making matters worse, I bought higher octane gas in the spring, thinking it would only be better, but no - they use even more ethanol to raise the octane, perhaps leading to my vapor lock issue. Using old blended gas could also lead to vapor lock issues since the ethanol separates out. I tried all other suspects, such as gas cap, spark plug, magneto, checking for clogged fuel line, flywheel key (timing), valve clearances, cleaning carburetor. I've gotten to know my Timemaster very well, but I'm hoping I finally found the cause to be as simple as bad fuel. Will come back with what I find.


#9

B

bertsmobile1

In most places e-10 is fine during the season while you are mowing at least once a fortnight.
Problems only come when it is left standing for a considerable time
So run pump fuel through till autum then run you last couple of tanks for the season of expensive canned fuel ( if you must ) then make sure the tank is either totally empty or totally full when you bed it down for winter


#10

S

slomo

Usually I just add more fuel and it cranks back up and I finishing mowing.
Which could/would dislodge any grass and dirt in the tank allowing fuel to make it to the carb.

Drop the fuel tank and carb bowl. Clean and or replace everything. Make sure the tank is spotless down in the bottom. If you need reading glasses to see in there like me, use them.


#11

L

lightadjust2000

I'm having this same issue with a 6 year old timemaster, changed oil, new plug, new fuel filter, new blades, new air filter, new ignition coil, new gas cap. all parts have been oem. i even dropped the carb and cleaned the bowl (it was spotless anyway). the symptom ocurrs only when its above 80ish outside...seems i can prevent it by quickly letting go of all handles and letting it run idle for 30 seconds, only to start up again and 5 min later the issue happens much quicker and i cannot prevent it. if i try to restart, it wont even spit, almost like there is no spark, which is why i replaced the ignition coil. any more ideas?


#12

R

Rivets

Check for debris in the tank. No debris you’ll have to figure if it is fuel or spark. Next time it happens and you can’t get it started, check for spark. Good spark, fuel problem and we’ll go from there.


#13

S

slomo

is why i replaced the ignition coil
OEM part or Chinese Scamazon or E-Pray?

Another coil that needs load tested. Get a PET-4000.


#14

R

Rivets

Forget the PET-4000 unless you are in the repair business. This tool is not worth of cost for a DIY guy.


#15

B

bertsmobile1

Forget the PET-4000 unless you are in the repair business. This tool is not worth of cost for a DIY guy.
Well I don't have one
But I do have a B & S fixed 3 point tester that is 1/3 the price but I rarely use it either as coils can not be repaired .
So much easier just to pull the plug cap away till the engine stops
Any more than 1/2 " and the coil strength is fine
Used to be the old way of cleaning an oil soaked or carbon fouled plug on car engines
Back in the 20's through to the 50's when magneto motorcycles were the norm a common "fix" for a blown capacitor in a Lucas magneto was to cut the HT lead, solder a small brass button to both ends then slide them into a piece of hose leaving them 1/2" to 1/4" apart


#16

L

lightadjust2000

Check for debris in the tank. No debris you’ll have to figure if it is fuel or spark. Next time it happens and you can’t get it started, check for spark. Good spark, fuel problem and we’ll go from there.
ok, no tank debris, when it died i used my spark tester and saw it lighting up, so i think im getting spark. it died even quicker this time, like 20 minutes into mowing rather than 30...its also very hot today but its the only time i can cut...so this definately seems heat related. of note, the spark plug boot was so hot i couldnt pull it off by hand, i had to use pliers...and once i had the tester on the plug for about 4 minutes, the tester boot heated up so much it was also too hot to pull off without pliers...so that plug must be crazy hot...ideas?


#17

L

lightadjust2000

any ideas?


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