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I have a toro 44'recycler walk behind that will not keep the blade engaged. The fuse is good. The blade control bail switch seems in working order. The blade control rocker switch will engage the blade. When you release the rocker switch the blade stops. I can jump across the relay and the blade will stay engaged, tried a new relay and the same thing happens. There is a solid state module that I am not quite sure what it is and I can't locate a wiring diagram. I am wondering if the engine is putting out the proper voltage but i can't seem to find much info on that either. Any help would appreciated.

Your clutch needs 12 volts to remain engaged...(any thing less can dramatically shorten it's life).
It also has to have a GOOD ground, If your not sure of the ground quality, remove it and clean up, then reapply... Same with all the wiring, relays, switches & fuse holders, good clean contacts... :smile:KennyV

Thanks for your reply. I will check the voltage. The thing is the blade will stay engaged if you remove the relay and jump across the terminals. Something is making the relay fallout.

MHenry139 said:

Thanks for your reply. I will check the voltage. The thing is the blade will stay engaged if you remove the relay and jump across the terminals. Something is making the relay fallout.

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In that case it will be something in the safety and interlock system... most likely a switch with a bad or compromised contact or wiring at a switch... The PTO switch itself, can have intermittent continuity... :smile:KennyV

It is my personal thoughts that I think that if u replace the rocker switch to engage the blade u will solve all your problems with it. Mine was doing the same thing. Now mine works fine.

I have exactly the same problem. I have a Toro 30159 walk behind.Started cutting yesterday and blade disengaged after 15 minutes. Removed relay switches, connectors ... cleaned all. It worked for the rest of the evening. Started cutting again today, same thing, disengaged after 15 minutes. Took apart again, everything works, even checked relay on bench with a power supply. Finished cutting by jumping latch contacts on relay base so clutch is working. Is it the module and any way to troubleshoot? The relay coil is rated 12 VDC and works on bench with that voltage applied, measured voltage at relay base is 26 - 28 VAC across the coil with engine running at full throttle and clutch and bail switches emgaged. Just don't understand what is in the mystery module, it's the only thing left and of course it's a non refundable $125.

DReitfort said:

The relay coil is rated 12 VDC and works on bench with that voltage applied, measured voltage at relay base is 26 - 28 VAC across the coil with engine running at full throttle and clutch and bail switches emgaged.

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check for a problem at the voltage regulator... You can not let AC voltage get to the coil... it is over heating and Will soon burn up...
There should be a rectifier at the voltage regulator to change the AC to DC... :smile:KennyV

KennyV said:

check for a problem at the voltage regulator... You can not let AC voltage get to the coil... it is over heating and Will soon burn up...
There should be a rectifier at the voltage regulator to change the AC to DC... :smile:KennyV

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Thanks a lot for the advice - thought maybe the rectifier was in the black box or something, did a little more troubleshooting today, removed rectifier/regulator, assume its a full wave bridge, if so one side is shorted + to AC. Any suggestions for replacement part, local dealer wants $100.

is that a Kohler engine?
Should be able to find a voltage regulator for a lot less than 100.....
Should be a simple fullwave bridge & somw type of heat sink ... :smile:KennyV

I need help, grass is getting away from me with all this rain. It's a Kohler CV 12.5 with what looks to be a 15 amp clutch circuit (pull start) on a Toro ProLine 32" mower. Replaced rect/reg on Kenny's advice, 42 VAC at reg AC terminals, 0 VDC B+ to ground. Put original reg back in, same but the clutch will engage when I short relay contacts, but as Kenny advised, clutch gets hot. Observations so far; all switches check for continuity as does wiring, stator measures around .4 ohms with no grounds. Look forward to advice.

Rgds,
Dave

How did you resolve this issue? Having the same thing--don't want to buy the part for 100.00 and find out it didn't solve the problem! Mine is a Pro Line 36"

Matt

DReitfort said:

I need help, grass is getting away from me with all this rain. It's a Kohler CV 12.5 with what looks to be a 15 amp clutch circuit (pull start) on a Toro ProLine 32" mower. Replaced rect/reg on Kenny's advice, 42 VAC at reg AC terminals, 0 VDC B+ to ground. Put original reg back in, same but the clutch will engage when I short relay contacts, but as Kenny advised, clutch gets hot. Observations so far; all switches check for continuity as does wiring, stator measures around .4 ohms with no grounds. Look forward to advice.

Rgds,
Dave

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To troubleshoot this issue this mower's bail switch is normally closed, meaning the bail when depressed opens the connection... I would pull off one of those wires from the bail's safety switch, put a little tape around it to cover it good enough so it can't make accidental contact... Keeping in mind you have the clutch safety on override so it won't disengage at all, go and mow as normal and see how it works now. If it doesn't disengage anymore then your fault lies somewhere in the bail / switch safety mechanism not keeping full contact while you're operating.
When done testing you'll need to cut off the engine itself, then restore the connections.

The switch is a: Toro / Exmark / Scag / Oregon
Part # 1-740275 Seat switch
Part # 740275 Bail switch
Cub Cadet #'s 925-3166, 725-3166
Cross-referenced parts 506909601, AM104403, 121305X, 532121305, 7023354