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So about a week ago I tried to fix my mower which hadn't run for a couple months. Every time I would pull on the cord to start it, it would just sputter and die. Then eventually after a few days of trying to get it to start, it finally did, but would only run for a few minutes before dying again.

Then about a week ago after some internet searching I found a video on youtube where a guy was showing you how to clean a carburetor on the exact mower and engine I have. Carburetor Cleaning & TUNE-UP of Toro 6.5HP Lawnmower with Tecumseh Engine - YouTube. Despite never having working on any engine of any kind before I was able to do everything in this video with no problems.

The mower now has fresh gas, new spark plug, cleaned the carburetor (but it wasn't as clean as in the video even after I wiped it down), and a new air filter. After doing all that I tried to start it, but this time it would just sputter like it use to. Then finally for whatever reason I got it to start today. However it was running faster than normal and it still only stayed on for a few seconds before dying, in which it won't turn after that.

Any ideas? Could I need a whole new carb or just a new o-ring and bowl?

I'm not sure if I got the right engine model number but the only thing I could find for a model# was this: LV195EA

You have carb problems. Prob water in the bowl or a dirty needle and seat. Is there an adjustment on it main jet clean?

Did you shake the float to see if you have water in it. With tec carb problem are endless

The jet in the bowl nut is probably partially plugged.

When I took the bowl off the carb I didn't see any water. The whole insides there did look a bit greasy from what I assume is gasoline but it wasn't anything drastic. The needle also looked fine to me, not sure what a seat is though. Float looked fairly clean as well.

I didn't know what would be considered clean or dirty when it comes to carbs. I don't know if they're like NASA equipment where a single grain of sand can break it or if a little bit of dirt and grease won't hurt. The dirtiest part of the whole carb was the jet bolt thing that attached to the bowl. I tried cleaning that the best I could, but it seemed to have some corrosion on it.

greasy doesnt sound good!...the seat is the place where the needle seals out the gasoline

So then do you think going back into the carb and cleaning out the grease and getting it nice and shiny might do the trick? Or will I need more than that?

Also the oil needs to be changed, could that be another reason it won't stay on or start?

like ILENGINE says....make sure that jet/bolt is totally cleared out....the oil has nothing to do with it....something was missed in the clean....get a rebuild kit and go through it all again...this time soak your parts in carb cleaner overnight

I know this thread was made long ago, but I finally got a rebuild kit. Apparently Tecumseh went out of business so it took about a week to get a kit.

Sorry for the poor quality but these are the best pictures I could get of what I have here. I'm putting them up so hopefully someone can tell me if they're cleaned well enough or if anything looks to be in bad condition. I'm just trying to avoid putting this thing together and then having to take it apart over and over.

This is the kit I got. I know where everything goes except the small beige rubber "nib" (just below the needle). I don't see anything like that on the carb.


This is the inside of the carb after I wiped it off best I could. There was some almost gelatinous gas in there.


This is the inside of the bowl and float.



SIDE NOTE: In order to drain the oil, do I just tip it on its side? Its the only method I've been able to find, but it seems almost too simple.

none of the picture came thru......

Odd...did that do it?

When you say you "This is the inside of the carb after I wiped it off best I could."... You Did use a carb cleaner & spray through all the passages with carb cleaner and then follow up with compressed air and even a fine wire to probe the passages... What your trying to clean can Not be done by wiping it down...

And yes if there is no drain plug at the base of the engine above the deck OR below the deck... then the only way you have is tipping the mower on its side... :smile:KennyV

i guess the pictures are back!....weird.....anyways.....the gelatin stuff is ethanol contamination...just be glad it didnt have time to harden up....thats killed many a carb....the little rubber donut is your seat and its actually in your second picture...get a paperclip and bend the very end into a hook and put a bit of an edge on it....then go fishing for the seat [ be sure to get all bits]......they often crumble if they're old...keeping everything clean.....reassemble and get back to us:smile:

Well I didn't use carb cleaner to clean out the insides, but I did use compressed air. I just now realized what it was, and saw the seat.

Being in a bit of a rush I replaced everything but the seat and tried it out. The mower started no problem and ran, but it seemed to still be running at higher RPM's than normal. Although this time it didn't die on me and I was able to mow the front lawn. However when I was ready to kill the engine, even after I let off the gas the engine ran on its own for a few seconds then sputtered and finally shut off.

the run on is normal to a point....but not more than a second.....a "lean" condition can exacerbate this.....you may want to richen it a bit if you have those adj. screws and see if it helps....for future reference....use carb cleaner....as it will dissolve build ups which can cause a myriad of issues

ILENGINE said:

The jet in the bowl nut is probably partially plugged.

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x2
this would be my guess

I have a Tec 6.75HP Craftman lawnmower. I have the same problem. I prime it or spray starter fluid and it runs strong for 5-6 seconds. I have replaced main nozzle tub and o-ring, replace the primer bulb assembly, air-breather to carb gasket, and bowl to carb gasket too. Still doing the same. Any suggestions???

The nut that holds the bowl on has a set of holes through it one passes horz, one dead center vertically into the lower pass through, that verticle likes to plug. that nut might seat up against an o ring in the carb ( not the seal on the item itself) also which could be shot or missing altogether as that is the feed for the jet in the middle of the main bore. no seal there = no suction to pull fuel from bowl. Playing with one right now - no jet adj. at all, it is what it is.

ive run across more than a few Tecumsehs with the plastic emulsion tube... where people have swapped it out for the wrong type.....i always make sure it has the right parts first now

Thanks. I replaced the main nozzle tube. (That is what you are calling emulsion tube?). I did open a thread named " Will start but dies in six seconds ". by Induray could everyone please post your solutins there? Thanks everyone. Happy Veterans day.

At least you got yours to run for a few seconds. I just acquired a Toro/Tecumseh push mower that states right on the engine cover: Guaranteed To Start. LOL. What it is really guaranteed to do is wear you out trying to start it.

But all is not lost as my Deere/Briggs took up the Toro/Tecuseh's slack and got the job done. I have learned though that you couldn't give me a truckload of Toro mowers.

WELCOME to LMF...

Your problem will most likely be the carburetor... Tecumseh has more carb problems than most... but the "Guaranteed To Start" is most likely dependent on all conditions being exactly right. :biggrin:...
And that's a condition that is very rare.
If you want to get into your Tecumseh carb... . go to this site, scroll down to the Tecumseh group, find the one that looks like yours and then follow the tear down rebuild directions... Small Engine Equipment Troubleshooting, Repairs and Safety
It should get you back to starting... AND running... :smile:KennyV

giantsquid said:

Well I didn't use carb cleaner to clean out the insides, but I did use compressed air.

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These little carbs are really finicky and even the tiniest bit of goo in one of the jets can cause exactly the kind of problem you are describing. In my experience you can't get them clean enough without soaking all the parts in carb cleaner, and even that often won't get it clean enough to run well. Especially if there has been any moisture in the carb, causing any corrosion at all, you'll need to replace the corroded parts. If it's gummed up with bad gas (almost a certainty if it sat without running for more than 3 or 4 months) you will probably have to take out the welch plugs to get it clean enough. Usually it's almost as as cheap and much easier to just replace the whole carb, but that's not as much "fun" as tearing it apart and putting it back together over and over... :laughing:

"but that's not as much "fun" as tearing it apart and putting it back together over and over... " amen

spitfire0450 said:

"but that's not as much "fun" as tearing it apart and putting it back together over and over... " amen

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I want to cry